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Nice, May I ask what you paid for it?

Dont be afraid to test it. But let it go even if it does turn the leather black. The longer it sits with iron in it the weaker the acid becomes and this is a good thing. FYI, My original post was slightly off. It can and often does take longer than 2 weeks. The point is to keep adding steel wool til it stops dissolving.

Relax, its fine. Cover it up. No sense it letting it evaporate. It takes at least two weeks and may still be clear. Mine always is clear for a while after its made. You could dip a scrap piece into the stuff for a few seconds and Ill bet it turns black or at least very gray. The rust is really not needed in this method. Give it time. It takes at least 2 weeks. You may need to add more steel wool if what you have in there disappear before the two weeks. Next time rinse off the acetone. remember to filter it after the time is up and dont freak out when it starts making a hard crud on the top as it sits in the bottle.

Yes they do. There are always exceptions.

What would you consider to be the most durable sealant/finish to go over acrylic paint on an item that will be used outdoors and must withstand a lot use? Neat Lac or Clear Lac, but I would still use resolene as I like it. You asked most durable. Is there a certain sealant you put on the paint prior to using the finish? No, I just did a pink holster and did not use a sealant. I've heard that Resolene is the best to use, is that true? Thats like asking Ford or Chevy. Resolene is one of the ones that will work well. Other people like other things. If so, how many 50/50 coats do you put on the item? Normally 2 How many coats of sealant prior to Resolene? None. relax, its easier than it seems. Michael.

+1000 NEVER place the gun is such a way that when you draw it the gun barrel points toward your body. This is the wrong way for a right hand draw. The gun sweeps across your torso as you pull it. If you are going to carry SOB, and I refuse to make them for several reasons all safety, then wear it this way or grip up. This way the barrel sweeps down and between your torso and arm as you draw and aim.

I know, I was so ashamed. But It was for a good cause. The girl is a friend of my son's. I used Angelus hot pink. at least Im not afraid to use acrylic paints on leather. I was surprised how well it covered. I was concerned that the paint might peel when the presser foot hit it. Gave it a coat of Resolene and it seems like it should be fine.

I was asked to make my normal IWB shield holster with a slight negative cant and in Pink. I tried several time on scrap to brush the pink acrylic on with no luck. Always to splotchy. I finally got a Preval sprayer and diluted the paint 50/50 with water. It took 2 light coats but it came out well.. I messed up and sent it out without taking a final set of pictures. This is the holster right before I re-beveled the edges and burnished them. I also took a modeling spoon the the bottom and fixed the presser foot marks. All in all the color came out better than I thought it would. Michael

Without permission you can not sell an item made with a protected sports logo. Some are copyrighted some are trademarked but you need permission to sell it. write and ask they may say yes or they may say no or they may say yes but you owe us X% of every sale. I do logo protection for a company and they allow sales of items that meet our requirements with their logo as long as an agreement is signed and the money is paid on a per unit basis. Its different with each company so the key is to ask. Michael

What size needles are you using?

Pictures please to show us what good vs crummy looks like. it will help

That looks like natural leather probably oiled with neetsfoot and set in the sun for a day or two. Then let it age for a few years. It really looks like what happens when leather is allowed to age. There maybe a way to get that look from a dye but I always use neetsfoot oil and a day or two in the sun,. It will grow darker as it ages.

A lot depends on what you are sewing and how thick the leather is. I normally use a #277 thread with a 794S 200 needle. I make a lot of belts and holsters. 415 Thread with a Size 250 Needle Commonly used in rated products like logging, mining, and military nylon webbing and strapping. 346 Thread with a Size 230/250 Needle Commonly used for mule and other heavy duty tack. Also used in boot and shoe applications. 277 Thread with a Size 200 Needle Is the most commonly used thread size in leather crafting from saddle and tack, boot and shoe, gun and knife, and all other kinds of craft and industrial applications. 207 Thread with a Size 180/200 Needle A favorite size thread for saddle bags, purses, and other thin material crafting. 138 Thread with a 160 Needle Used mostly in belts, billfolds, purses and other thin material crafting. 99 Thread with a 130 Needle and 69 Thread with a 110 Needle Is seldom used in leather applications unless the stitch is not to be a major part of the final design. This combination is more commonly used in fabric, vinyl, and other thin material applications.

Here is an example of using a resist to protect the leather and they using an antique gel to just color the depressions of the stamps. First is just the pattern and then the pattern with an antique jell. Its another way to color the stamped area. Keep in mind, these were test pieces when I was first learning.

Saddle Leather – Sometimes known as crazy horse and is made from applying special waxes to surface top grain or full grain leather. The effect here is that when rubbed the color will change and does not immediately reverse giving it an antique look. so it is full grain or top grain leather to start with. The picture you have of full grain leather is not what all full grain leather looks like. It can be smooth instead of having a pebble finish. In fact the pebble finish is often pressed into the leather. Good leather will work for your project. As for thickness you need to define "rigid". Get some pieces of 6/7 and 8/9 and see which one meets your needs. depending on the design and quality of the leather both could work. Take a look at this website for information.

F902 on eBay B997 on another site

You can die happy now. Ya done good and mike complimented it. Michael

Looks good, Nice stitch line along the trigger guard. Good color. I see you made the same "mistake" I always do. On the reenforced piece where you cut the edge to fit on the front side. The leading edge is not burnished to the same quality as the rest of the edges. I do that almost every time. Other than that you really did nice work. The comment about the cut edge is not criticism, it just struck me as funny that someone else did the same thing I did. Keep it up. Ya done good. Michael

Anyone have a set of these they are interested in parting with? Craftool Co USA Leather stamp tool Z780, Z781, Z782 Alpha bevelers Michael

How about a picture of your edger please?

Whats the max thickness of leather you will sew? the Boss can do up to 3/4 inch. not sure which pfaff you are talking about we would need model number to help.

Model #'s are needed, Pictures would help. Whats the maximum thickness you will be sewing? If you can afford it get a Tippmann Boss. Its hand powered.

Damn nice rig. Ya done good.

After its formed and almost dry heat it to 125-130 degF for about 10 minutes. That will harden it and weather wont soften it again. The heat melts the collagen(?) in the leather and make it pretty stiff but not rock hard. Then be sure to finish it with some sort of wax or acrylic finish. Michael

Lookslike a great start. What are you using for thread? It looks like Sinew. If so switch to a waxed linen 3 to 7 cord would be about the right size. even Tandy sells it. Sinew is best for period pieces. Linen thread gives a better look to the stitches. Michael