mlapaglia

Whats the difference between them?

This is the chart I have next to mine.

I agree, perhaps only sanding. A full burnished edge would look even better IMO.

+1 on a fresh blade. Make a small cut with a knife and pull it through the hole on the cutter then hold the end and pull on it. It should make lace and work fine. You might try some thicker leather just till you get the hang of using the tool. It will work.

If you state not to oil or over oil it for X # of months then you have a leg to stand on. Otherwise you might have to eat this one. You could tell him he ruined it by over oiling and give him a price break on a replacement. Technically you delivered a product he broke so you owe him nothing but reputation is also at stake. Id either give him a price break on a new one of try to add a stitch line to the old one to tighten it up and be done with it.

I normally machine sew with the leather dry but you can sew it slightly damp. My Boss does not leave pressure foot marks on cases leather as long as I adjust the pressure foot correctly.

I would use 4/5 Herman Oak. Yes you can moisten the leather before you sew it.

Yes, Thats what I do. Put it in Glass bottle and shake WELL before you use it. there will be a ring along the edge of the bottle but it dissolves when you shake.

It looks like its done it 3 pieces and they were probably stretched first while wet, cut to size glued on the flask, top and bottom first then the body. Im betting all the edges were beveled to fit better. It probaby shrunk some while it dried then it was given a gloss finish. Glue alone can hold leather in this case as there really isnt any great stress on the leather.

You need to get another keeper. Buy an old belt and take the keeper off the old belt and put it on yours. Go to tandy and buy a keeper. Get a strip of leather and make your own. You can staple the ends together. The other option is to cut your belt down. The Billet end of the belt, the end with the holes should be about 5 inches from the hole that you use on the belt. It sounds like you have a billet that is way to long so cut it back or get a keeper. There isnt any real magic with this. How long is the billet after the hole you use? Your other option would be to get a new buckle with a built in keeper and use the old one as the free one for the end.

Thanks, I always wondered. Now I know.

Simple question. What is the hole on the side of the Tandy and Osborne copper rivet setting tool? The one on the end is to set the burr and the dome is to round out the rivet shaft top. On the Tandy the whole on the side does not go through to the other side. I dont know about the Osborne. Anyone know what its for? Michael

Strop the blade. Thats all mine needed. There is a lot of controversy regarding cermamic and stropping. Wither it fix's the edge or just cleans all the carp off the blade doesn't matter, It does help them cut better. Give it a try. If that doesnt help take it back and have the guy test them on some leather there. It's possible you got a couple of bad ones but Im betting on the strop to fix it.

VERY nice. Did you cover an existing case or make this one from scratch? Can we see inside the case with and without the guitar? That looks nice enough for my D-35 Martin. Well done.

I love my Boss. It does what I need it to. I make mostly holsters, belts and cases/purses and because I have total control over the speed it never stitches where I dont want it to. I even took it to Tucson last month while visiting my mother so I could work on a few projects for her. ITs worth the money and has a good resale value. Yes it has a learning curve but it is worth the time it takes to learn it. Michael

The OP is looking for leather to make holsters not to buy already made holsters. Its more fun to make your own and who knows he might be the next Al Stolhman. Id call Springfield leather. Their prices are great and they cut as little as 2 sq feet.

Tippmann Boss. Not every one will agree but it will work fine.

Everyone I know buys veg-tan and distresses it themselves. Drag it on the road, scrape it with a knife, anything to make it look old. Ive never seen it for sale already distressed.

+1 Leathercraft Tools by Al Stohlman. I still look at mine. It explains how to use and sharpen almost all the tools there are.

In my case they serve different purposes. I stitch the belt along the edge, 1/8" in from the edge, and use the chicago screws to hold the chape closed. I use screws so I can change buckles. If I stitched it closed I could not change buckles.

Ive got a couple Gen 4's and a Gen 3. The Rail on the Gen 4's, at least the ones I have, are standard weaver rails and work fine with all my stuff.

If I can help in any way let me know please. Take Care. Michael

I doubt we are anywhere close to 95% iron acetate in the vinegroon.

Rivets, snaps, and Chicago screws are some ways to hold the chape end of the belt closed so the buckle doesn't fall off but with screws or snaps you can change the buckle. It also holds the keeper in place. I personally use Chicago screws. Gun metal black on most belts. Copper rivets have their place too.

Really nice, Love the color. good job over all.