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Lets make this easy. The Current Tandy Round/head knives Damascus or otherwise are Carp!!!! I had one and took it back it would not hold an edge and was a real pain to sharpen. I am saving for a good knife. I believe that if you buy the Tandy round knife you will return it. Its a shame that the name Al Stohlman doesnt mean quality anymore.

It depends on how much you buy a year. and how much paper work you like to do each year. Places like Tandy and Springfield leather offer memberships for a price that get you better pricing. consider that.

If you can visit a Tandy leather im person to pick out the one you like they are having a sale on Craftsman Oak Double shoulders In 4-5 and 8-9 oz for $3.99 a sq ft. Not always the best leather but if you can hand pick it you can get a decent piece for that price. Otherwise I agree call Springfield leather.

I believe by accurate she meant that the aspect ratio should be correct. The stars the right size and placement. The stripes the same way. A "real" flag not just a hand made representation of one. No offense meant by the that comment. I know I am not good enough to make one that does not look home made. Michael

You can get a whetstone or oil stone at a hardware store. Home depot etc. If you can t afford a maul at the moment try a section of wood. I have used a 4x4 at times. Just cut the end down a little do you can hold it. There are many leathercrafters in other countries that only use a hunk of wood as a Maul. I have a length or an oak branch that works real well. If you have fire place wood you can probably pick a piece from the wood pile that will work. I understand waiting for the first of the month Michael

I am impressed. I can barely tie my own shoes let alone make one. Very nice.

Hi, How old is this machine? Is it cast iron or aluminum? (Quick test use a magnet on the case front or look at the needle plate. Cast iron plate uses 2 screws aluminum uses one) Can we get a picture of the machine?

Dont condition before you case. You run the risk of over conditioning by the time you are through. One time after the tooling and before the resoline. Sounds like you have too many coats of resoline on the belt. I do my first coat 50-50 resoline and water. Prevents bubbles. The second I do a light coat with full strength or 50-50 depending on how I feel that day. I let the first coat dry over night and the second about 12 hours. Whose leather are you using? Tandy, Herman Oaks, Wicket and Craig? When I make a belt I skive the section on the buckle end that is folded. This way the finished section is no thicker than the original leather. Did you skive the buckle end? Michael

You can use cement but use RUBBER cement not contact cement. I cement it before I case it. Michael

Here is mine, Just got it from Jeff at Grey Ghost. Love his work!! First time shown anywhere.

Not really. All of us have just learned to be fast with that one. If you want larger you need to go to something like a pebble stamp. The M882 is bigger and the M884 is really big. Look at them on Tandys website.

I was wondering the same thing. Maybe the Vinegar just acts as an acid to dissolve the iron faster. If left in a barrel of water it would dissolve the iron but not as fast as the vinegar. I might have to set up a plastic bucket and try it with just water and let it sit for a few months. Hopefully Will sees this and can explain. Michael

A good reason to not use #1 and #4. When I looked at them I did not see an AX head. I looked at it left to right so only saw some strange shape that kinda fit the letter shapes. Go with #2 or #3

Nice, Give it a week and see what happens. I have had Vinegaroon leech into other areas as time passes. Michael

Well you could get the bore in the tool drilled out. I have one and never use the set screw so if it gets messed up it wont matter. all you need is a vise, a drill bit that fits in the knife hole and some time. Just make sure to maintain a straight angle when drilling. The other option is to use a dowel wrapped with sand paper and just sand it till it fits. If its not much this is a better way. michael

I appreciate the compliment. I agree that Kydex is a good choice when re-holstering is an issue. I may have to get a sample and play with it.

On a personal level I do not see the need for the ability to do a tactical re-holster on a concealed personal defense weapon. At the range my holster is rigid leather with a reenforced throat. I pull the gun and re-holster is several times while at the range. When I carry for PD I do not see my pulling it unless I need to. At that point I really do not have to worry about being able to put it back with one hand. Thank being said I carry this one at 1:00 so its easier to not have it held open. My avenger and my avenger style IWB that I carry at 3:00 does stay open. Its all a matter of taste I guess. Thanks for the info. Michael

Yep they are similar. I see you used the next size up clip. I had both and just went with the smaller one. Both seem to work well. Thanks for sharing your holster. I like the design. I skipped the reinforcement piece on mine. It stays open pretty well and on an IWB that I carry at 1 oclock I tend to not worry about tactical re-holstering. I will add it if anyone wants one that way. Heck Ill dye it purple with red and green leds for the right price. There are no holsters for the Shield in town so I am hoping to generate some work before the big boys catch up with production. Have you had a chance to shoot the Shield. Its a really nice gun and very accurate for a 3 inch barrel. I have decided to make it my carry weapon when my permit comes through. I am on day 62 or 90 day wait for that. Ive got a M&P 9mm FS, the 9C and now the Shield and I like the shield the best. Michael

I used a black screw and painted the "false" snap black and it looked fine. If you want to put two snaps on the same strap and then NOT change snap position Id suggest using the stiffener that is used for a thumb break so the strap didnt fold up as you pulled the gun out. If you are going to physically move the snap to the t-nut then it does not matter. -M

The one time I used a second T-nut I made a small circle of leather and ran a screw and washer into the unused T-nut with the leather in between to solve that. The leather worked as a spacer to cover up the post from the T-nut and the regular metal washer worked like the snap would to hold the screw. Its a thought. -M

It looks good. My only suggestion is next time place the T-nut between the two layers of leather so that the back of the nut is not exposed. If the 2 holes are for an adjustable cant then just place 2 T-nuts between the leather. Then the customer can use the one they prefer. Michael

Rick, It's not molded at all. With the rough out and the belt against the holster there is no problem with the retention. The stitch lines are close enough that I can turn the holster upside down and shake it and the weapon stays put. The clip is a great way to hold the holster against the belt. So far the only think I have found is the holster might ride a little too low. It may be just a little to close to the top of the belt to get aq good grip on the gun for removal. Ill try it for another few days and see. If all goes well my CCW should clear in 30 days and then I can give it a real test. Thanks for the comments. Michael.

68 views and no comments??? Is it that bad? FYI if you make the pattern you need to round the corners on the top piece that holds clip in place. Also the rivet only goes from the clamp to the top piece. It does not extend into the area the pistol sits in. I know its just a draft but someone must have a comment. Ive worn it all day at 1-2 oclock and its really comfortable. Michael (I know its pathetic to beg for comments but its been a slow week )

For a medium shine, a little brighter than a matte but not police shiny I use 2 coats of Leather Balm w/Atom Wax. First I apply a coat of Olive Oil or Neetsfoot oil and let that soak in for at least 8 hours then rub it in well. Then I apply first coat.of Atom wax and allow it dry for an hour, buff it well and then apply second coat of Atom wax. I allow to dry over night then buff again. Looks great. Once A year I have the customer return the piece if they can and reapply a single coat of wax. Dry for 30 minutes and buff. Its a little customer service that makes it look great again and it doesnt cost me any real time or money. The customers seem to like the extra service and it gives me a chance to see if they need anything else made. Michael

I got one of the new Smith and Wesson M&P Shield 9mm pistols. It is amazing. Shoots great, fantastic trigger but no holsters yet. So I made an IWB for mine. It used a clip to hold it to the belt and is Rough out. This is the first version of the holster. The edges have not been finished. It was done using some stained scrap 8/9 leather. However it is at the point where all it needs is little adjustments to the edges and a finish. I am pretty happy with the current version. I am including several pictures and the pattern in a PDF format. You are free to use the pattern anyway you like. If you make a change Id like to see the change to see how you improved it. You are free to sell any holsters you make with this pattern. Please do not sell the pattern but you are free to give it away. When you print the PDF file please print it at 99%. This way it will print to the correct size. Let me know any questions or comments you have. When critiquing please remember its a first version and has not been edged or had any finish applied. Im going to ]week or two then make another using any changes i think it needs. SHIELD IWB1 pattern.pdf