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A tip of the hat to you sir. That is one nice looking holster. Really great work. I like the look but do not understand the opening on the end of the barrel well done. Michael

Thanks for the information everyone. Aaron, thanks for the offer. Ill look around but will let you know if I cant find them. Michael

Long time no post. Ive been in the hospital. I finally escaped and can do leather work again. Where are people buying T nuts for IWB holsters? Also what size is a good size to get? Thanks for the help I cant get the search to work on single letter searches. Michael

The Tippmann Boss would do it for you. The eral issue is it is a manual machine, ie; no motor. Its all hand powered. But it will do the job and its not expensive. $1500.00 list. As for a needle that depends on what size thread you want to use. I would use a 794 series as the tip is chiseled and not rounded. I am sure the electric machines will do the job and probably easier. All I can say is the Boss will work. Michael

Ok I will up the ante. I will give you 2, 794 LR 200 needles for 1, 794 P 200? Id also trade for a S, SD, or D. Its a good way to test out the LR needle. It does a nice job. Id just like to see what the others do. Michael

Thanks Michael

HI, When I ordered my boss from Tippmann I also ordered needles. I had asked for 794 S or P but they send LR. It was what they had. Anyone want to trade a 794 LR 200 needle (or 2), 1 for 1, for a 794 P 200? Id also trade for a P, SD, or D. Let me know if you are interested. Michael Should be no more shipping cost than maybe 2 stamps. Depending on how it was protected.

Aaron, I did in fact think about going to the Tandy store. They have a nice one here but circumstances prevented me from being free while they were open. Thanks for the suggestion. Michael

THANK YOU. That is much easier than the way I envisioned doing it. Michael Can we get this pinned please???

On my 10th day in Tucson due to a Family medical issue. I haven't touched or smelled unfinished leather since I left Denver on the 28th. I''m really going through withdrawal here. To make it worse I got a new S&W M&P 9 on the 26 and it sits at home. I only got to run 40 rounds through it before I left. I go home tomorrow and am not sure if I will huge the wife or the Tippmann Boss first. Michael (we all know it will be the wife. She is the true Boss at home)

Nice Rig, what can you tell us about it? How long it took, type and size of leather, who's finish, ect. Time to crow a little about this. tell us all about it. Michael

Thank you! Michael

Let me ask it this way. Would 207 thread and a 794-200 needle work for sewing a double thickness of 5/6 oz veg tan leather? Michael

I use a 45mm rotary blade knife like the quilters use for all my straight lines and rough cuts. I lay a straight edge on the leather and use it as a guide to cut. With cased leather it takes one cut. For tight curves I use a utility knife with a stropped blade. One thing nice about the rotary knife is I can use it to trim down the edge of one piece of leather using the other edge as a guide. Even for gentle curves. Mine is a Fiskars 9521 You can get them at hobby lobby and other craft stores. They go for about $15.00 and a pack of 5 replacement blades is about $10.00. TLF has one for 19.99 that is not as good as the Fiskars model. Give it a try. It wont do everything but for most cuts it does a great job. Get at least a 44mm blade

Leather strop is better. Cardboard does work and for newbies sometimes they do not have any scrap of leather. Make it as sharp as you can. Then keep it that way. You will do fine. Michael

Anyone??? Buller???

On my Boss I bring the needle up about a 1/2 inch so its still in the leather but on the upstroke. Then lift the presser foot and turn the leather. I have also done it with the needle all the way up. Just never do it with the needle in the leather on the down stroke. Michael

I will take 5. PM sent Michael

I need to make some dog collars for a friends shop 1/2" to 1" wide. Anyone got a suggestion on what thread and needle to use on straps that small? I figure it will be 4/5 doubled in most cases. If that's too thick let me know. Mainly I need to know what size needle and thread to buy. at the moment have 277 thread with 200 and 250 chisels. Any suggestions? Michael

I called Ben at Tippmann. My problem is either the thread catching at the top and popping free or a bobbin that is not wound with the same tension all the way through. I know when I did this bobbin the thread snagged a few times as it was winding causing the drill to pull toward the thread. I am willing to bet that this caused a bobbin that was not tensioned evenly. I have a low speed screwdriver that I ordered a chuck for. I am going to mount that on the bench so I have a place to do it properly. Thanks for all the help. Michael.

Now that sounds like an interesting idea. Keep us posted please.

I was having the same problem. I took a 2 inch long piece of 8/9 oz and wedged it in the opening of the thread stand. this stops the thread from flipping out of the thread stand completely and also from flipping over the thread stand.

I kind of thought that too but it goes 5-6 inches so thats 30-36 stitches. thats a lot more than just a few. If I pull the thread free at the first post at Guide post one. then it mess up the tension on all the stitches. It does not seem to be catching at the spool. At least not that I can see.

I just did an 8/9 oz single layer belt. 55 inches long. Im a big boy. 277 thread top and bottom. Full bobbin on bottom. 794-200 needle. About every 5-6 inches I got 1 stitch where the bobbin thread was pulled up to the top or the top thread was not pulled down. They look the same. Any idea what caused that? As an aside, a single line of stitching in white 1/8" all the way around on a balck belt really made a difference on how nice it looked. It made it sort of pop. I am really learning to love this machine. Michael

Congrats on the Boss. Is it a cast iron one or cast aluminum model. A magnet to the case will tell you quickly, Another way is the needle plate. The cast iron model has 2 screws to hold the needle plate in place. The cast aluminum model has one screw. I have had mine for about 3 weeks. A tip I can pass on is, Don't forget to adjust your stitch length when you change thickness of your leather. I find I go from a 6 spi to a 8 spi when I go from 8/9 oz leather total thickness to 16/17 oz total thickness. About a 1/4 turn on the stitch length dial brings it back for me. Another thing is mark all your adjustments somehow. I used sharpies. This way you know how much you moved them and how to get them back to base line. Once you have the bobbin thread tension right, about 1 lb pull, dont adjust it as long as you have the same thread in the bobbins. do all your adjustments on the primary and secondary thread tension adjustments. 99% of the time I only adjust the primary tension adjustment. You will almost always have to adjust thread tension when you change to the next project unless its the same thickness. Even then Id double check it on a scrap. Good luck and enjoy. Michael