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Might not be the best idea. You need your slab to be hard to use stamps. If you glue the poundo board on it you will not be able to make a good impression on the leather with a stamp. Most people put the poundo board under the slab. It deadens the noise even more. Then just more the slap out of the way to punch a hole.

Well you are welcome to come over and try my Tippmann Boss if you want some time. Michael

What kind of needle are you using? What is the number on it? To me it looks like its not the right needle for leather.

Welcome I live just north of you in Centennial. About smokey hill and E-470. With all the colorado people here we should do a meet and greet. Nice work. Is that hand stitched or done with a machine? Michael

What did you use for a dye? What finish did you use on it after the dye? How many coats of the dyd did you put on the holster before the finish? Michael

If you have a french edger you can try this trick from page 38 of Leathercraft-Tools-by-Al-Stohlman. Its really easy and works well for me. Michael

looks good, Michael

Try this Tandy page They have 3 or 4 holsters on the page including a few for semi-automatic weapons. Michael

If the leather is dry you need to oil it not wax it. Oil it with something like Neetsfoot oil, EVOO, Lexol, something that will soak in and replace the oils that are missing. This is why its dry. When you do it depends on how dry it is. Unless it is super dry I would case and tool it then oil it and do the needed folds and stitching. Saddle soap is more of a cleaner. Wax will help preserve the leather after you get it oiled. Dont wax it until you are pretty much done with everything.

I have a pre-rail G30 if you want me to take any measurements. Is his with or without a rail? Michael

Welcome Im just north of you in Centennial.

Yep. But cheaper than a Gun Dealer. Last time I went into to my local Gun store I came out with a M&P 9C. I hand not planned on buying one when I walked in. But it called to me. Michael

Will that handle the size bobbin that is on a Boss? does anyone know? I use an electric screwdriver with a drill chuck attachment. It has 2 speeds so It is slow enough that it winds pretty smoothly. I also run the thread through the first tension post on the boss to give me a start on the tension. Then I just use my fingers to finish it.. It takes about 3-4 minutes but they are pretty smooth.cost me around 25.00..

Yes they are full solid leather. They are obviously going to pick the best to photograph. I have one here so I know they are ok. Personally Id get a hunk of Hermon Oak from Springfield and cut your own. Thats what I do. I currently have 5 75" blanks waiting for me to make then into belts. I paid 5.79 per sgft for them. I told Springfield I wanted a piece of back or shoulder that was 2 sgft by 7 sgft with a straight edge. They cut me a great piece of Herman Oak and I cut my own belts to size. works very well. If you buy belt blanks at Tandy, at $19.99 each they cost you $39.98 a sg ft. That's real steep. You can afford the strap cutter and snaps and still be ahead on 6 belts. Michael

I deglaze first. Then dye.after it dries, over night dry, I buff the surfiace to remove excess pigment and then oil. Normally with EEOO or neets foot. I have even used Lexol. After it soaks in I buff again and apply the finish. I am sure there are other ways to do it. Thats the way I was taught. Good luck. Michael

VERY CLEAN and nice. Job well done. great hand stitching. Two minor suggestions, I would have lined the bottom where the pen is. The hole where the pen clips in needs to be burnished. Two very minor comments on a very good job.

White cheap vinegar. Yes leave the lid loose, as it will gas a little. Any paper filter. I have used coffee or paper towels. Give it two weeks. Stir or shake once a day. after 2 weeks filter and let set for 24 hours to settle. then decant to a clean container with a tight lid.

deglaze after clening. It might not do much for a commercial bag. Your vinegaroon is not old enough. It needs at least 2 weeks then strain and let it settle. It should turn the color of tea. wait until the vinegeroon is ready then try it all again. Michael

My fault. its an OLD thread. I didnt look at the date. sorry

Yep. its dangerous. I now make a list before I go and only get whats on the list unless its something really cool. .

Thanks everyone for the kind words. Mike.. I thought a long time about that corner.. The Glock 19 trigger guard has a sharp corner at that point. I agree I should have curved it instead. The Boss makes curves so easy Ill have to chalk it up to a bad decision. Ill have to give the glycerine soap a try. Im still using Gum Trag but I'm all for anything that makes it easier. Thanks again, Michael.

I just spent 9 days in the hospital and then 30 days in bed. This holster was the first thing I did after being out of the shop for 45 days. It has its problems but it is nice to see that after being that sick I can still do something. This was my first IWB and to be honest I used a pattern for a M&P 9C Avenger as my starting point. The edges suck but my strength still isnt to the point that I can do them well since I hand burnish my edges. Its 8/9 HO butt end of a back. Vinagroon for color. Formed on a Glock 19. The extra leather on the side is an experiment to see if it improves the hold in the pants. All in all Im proud of it even if it is only ok and not great. Glad to be back. Thanks Michael

You can sandwich the rivet or snap bottom between two pieces of leather. I am doing a IWB holster and the T-nuts are between the two layers of leather I used for the front. Two pieces of 4/5 oz glued together with the grain out on both sides. This is my top piece and I put the T-nut between the two layers. I have also recessed a rivet then glued a circle of leather about the size of a quarter over the rivet bottom. It stays in place and protects the surfaces. But that is not as good as putting the bottom between two pieces of leather. Michael

Take it back to Tandy and have them replace it, then only use a Rawhide, poly or rubber mallet and have a poundo board or plastic cutting board under it. It should last a lot longer. Michael

Thanks, It's always nice to here the updates. I got that chuck for my power screwdriver and it works great for winding the bobbin at an even tension. I finally got to the point that I can adjust the machine when changing thread sizes in just a few secs. I really love this machine. Michael