mlapaglia

Thanks for the info. Is it worth my going to see it? Livestock doesn't interest me unless its on a plate I like horses but couldnt make a day out of looking at them. Are these booths in the same general area or spread all over? I am not able to cover great distances anymore. Do we get any shows in Denver in 2012 that are what I am looking for? Michael

I live in denver and have never been to the stock show. Is there anything there for a leather worker to see in regards to leather, tools, stamps, etc? Im hoping that somewhere inside this huge show is a trade show for leather workers and suppliers. Anyone been there and know anything about it? Michael

Mike, I totally agree with you. It was just I remembered seeing it and then could not find it anywhere nor could I explain my self enough to make people understand. It was driving me a little nuts. After playing with making it my sample shows all the problems you mention. I also played with a simple weave with a straight cut piece of leather and it lined up and adjusted great. It is a much better way. Thanks. That's a great looking rig. Id like to be half as good as you are someday. The main thing is I am having fun trying. Michael

Here is a pattern. I drew it up in about 2 minutes and saved it. Pint it at 100% scale and center to fit and it should be fine. If its not what you want let me know. I left it full size so it will look bad here but print great. when you click on the pic here go to the lower right corner and click on the disk symbol. it will resize it on the screen. From that image right click on the pic and save it. Just cut out the the pattern for the front. the other is just for information. Use a 1 inch key ring. To be honest you could probably do a better job than I did. they are easy. Michael.

Ok, I threw one together and I mean threw it together. It's rough but its a proof of concept. I colored the tabs on the bullet leather red on the back to make them easy to see. From what I remember they can be glued down and the loops wont slip back in if pushed. The distance between tabs, the actual loop, is a little short and since it was just a quick test its not really straight. But this is the method I was talking about. Needless to say I have enough information to use it now. I think that if its done well and correctly it would work on an unlined belt and look fine. Questions, comments, snide remarks? (the concept, not the crappy way it was thrown together.) Thanks Michael

I called Kevin at Springfield leather (God I love those people) and he remembers what I was trying to say. We talked about it and I am going to make up a small example with pictures so it will be clearer. At least I know I am not nuts about this method. It is done with a single slot per loop and the extra leather at the top and bottom is at the space between the bullets behind the belt. supposed to keep the loops tighter and not mess up them all if one gets pushed in a little. Ill be back with the example. Keven also said if he remembers where he saw it he will let me know. I found an example. Its for shotgun shells and not the one I was looking for but its the same principle. this post http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15872&view=findpost&p=112971 and the one below it show the basic process. You push the loop through from the back so you are not lacing all the thick parts each time you do another loop. Anyone remember seeing this process before?? Thanks Michael

You are about to see why I failed 1st grade art class. Please do not assume perspective is correct not aspect ratio. The top image is the actual leather that holds the cartridges against the belt. They are set up one slot per side of loop. 3 slots would support 2 cartridges etc. The second image is the belt with the cartridges leather installed. the dotted lines are a bad representation of the leather behind the slot. There are no stitches except on the ends of the leather cartridge belt. The purpose of the extra leather is to better support the cartridge opening. If I remember correctly. All 3 of these examples were on the same book, post, video what ever it was. This assumes that my drawing was at all understandable. Michael added: I did more thinking about this and remembered that the areas of the cartridge leather that went behind the belt was cut to spread out on a little. I made a quick example that might help. This is the back side of the belt using this process I am trying to remember.

Since you do not have a Desktop or laptop go to your library and print out the first one or two posts of this thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5696 . It is a tutorial on how to make an avenger holster including some patterns you can look out. Michael

I tried the search but didn't find what I was looking for. I remember seeing a thing about cartridge loops that showed 3 ways to do them. Sewn on the belt. Pulled through a slot and pulled through a slot where the leather for the loop was taller on the part behind the slot. Anyone remember where that might be? I dont know if it was in a book or on a site some where. I thought it was on this site but I cant find it. Help please if anyone remembers. Thanks Michael

Was the $120.00 only if you bought one from him or even if you didnt? Michael

Pete, I have a year old ceramic and 2 1 year old steel blades. The ceramic blade is much smoother than the steel ones. No matter what I do the steel seems like it drags. I think you are so used to the ceramic that the steel will feel like its dragging no matter what you do. Once I got the ceramic the steels were set aside for use only when I need them and then I feel like I cant strop them enough. I think its the nature of the ceramic blade to to drag less. I don't think anything is wrong with your steel. Its the nature of the beast. Michael

Does anyone distribute any "Leather Care Instructions" when they sell a holster or other leather product? Michael

Springfield is very good. If they say 84 then they are 84. Thats great. Have fun with this one and post a picture when its done.

I made my first belt. 8/9 oz Hermann Oak. I cut the blank at 72 inches from a back. By the time it was fitted and finished it was 60" Should have been 56" but the customer, My Son, wanted a longer billet. Tooled, dyed with Fiebings Tan, 2 layers resolene as a resist, Eco-Flo Dark Chocolate Brown as the antique. Finished with another coat of resolene. Stitched by Dwight from our own leatherworker.net. He did am amazing job on a Boss. Until I can afford to buy one his prices are hard to beat for outside sewing work. He was also fast. It arrived on a Wednesday and was shipped Friday. I was impressed how much the stitching improved the look of the whole belt. Compliment or Critique as you wish. Its the first one I'm really proud of. Yes it still needs some practice but its nice to see I'm finally starting to get there. (Why is it that my Son the professional photographer is never home when I need pictures of something ?) Michael

72 inches to the center hole. +3.5 inches for the fold at the buckle + 2 inches to add 2 more holes after the center hole and 3 inches to the end of the billet. Thats 82.5 inches in my way of doing a belt. Id make sure Springfield knows you have no room for error in measuring the blank. Which machine are you using to sew this bad boy? I have no idea if the bobbin will hold enough but I would think that you could sew one side swap to a new bobbin and continue from that point and sew to the back end. I just finished one that was 56" in length and the biggest problem I had was some place to lay it down while I was dyeing it and putting the finish on it. Other than the size Id recommend a good strong buckle and don't skive the area for the slot too much. What thickness did you order your blank in? Michael

James, The real shame is the Tandy you and I know is long gone. I'm glad they got saved but its not the same anymore. In many ways you and I agree about all of this. Thanks Michael

Have you tried the blade on anoth. er piece of scrap? that will tell you if its the blade or the leather

Is the leather cased or dry ? Michael

If you case it you can put in all kinds of marks just by pressing into it. Drag some guitar strings along the neck end. make some marks with a guitar pic. When distressing furniture its common to hit it with a chain to make marks. With cased leather just a few tools dropped on the strap would make all kinds of marks. Try it with a piece of scrap first. As for the finish Im not sure. Probably do a normal finish and then deglaze it and maybe a little 800 sand paper to really dull it up. I know that a 50/50 mixture of Eco-flo stain and Dye (the old stuff) makes a nice old looking finish. Ive used it on a few holsters and they look much older that way. Since the dye and stain absorb at different rates you can get an old worn look.

Your welcome. FYI Everyone,I just noticed that the materials list has a problem. its 12 feet of thread not 12 yards. oops. Actually its about 8.5 feet but Id rather list a little more than not enough. but 36 feet is a bit much I have a corrected version here. Updated version Its just the typos corrected. If you have the original you don't need this one but you are welcome to it. Michael

I forgot to reply to #4. They cover those two points in the session before this one. So its been taken care of. if it had not been covered already you would have a very valid point. I have corrected the master for point 2 and 3. Im not sure I can change it here but if I figure it out Ill upload the newer version. thanks Michael Thank you Michael Thank you for that comment. Its nice to be able to give back after all the help I have received. You made my day with that remark. Michael

They need to have the leather wet in order to transfer all the lines and marks from the pattern and the instructor requested that I not use terms like dampen or quick case when referring to dealing with the complete piece of leather . If they are going to tool the knife, something i did on the example, they need to have it cased for that too. Yes, the stitch length and thread size is holding the sheath together. I put one together without any cement and it held fine. I have used that thread and stitch length on holsters and it works great. 6 stitches per inch is pretty standard for that size of leather and the thread is what they will have available to them to use. I didn't want to list something like irish linen 4 cord, 0.7mm which is what I used. Do you see a problem I am not seeing with this? Michael

Wishful, Thanks for the comments. They are always welcome. your #1 comment "1. is is easy to understand" Are you saying I have the word is somewhere twice or is that a typo on your part? I appreciate your looking it over. Thanks for your time. Michael.

Call Springfield leather and talk to Kevin or Emma or anyone else that answers the phone. They are all good there. My last leather purchase was from them 16 sq ft of HO 8/9 leather. I made 6 72 in. belt blanks from what they sent me and still have enough for 6-7 holster. I told them what I wanted to do and they sent me the right leather for the job with less than 2% waste. Tandy may not be the best but there are a lot of us that would not be here if it were not for their initial kits and the willingness to help a new person. They are not in business for the professional and I do not believe they are trying to be. They are content to serve that part of the industry that is the beginner and low level hobbyist. They serve a purpose and trashing them just for the sake of trashing a business is not a good idea. Citing a specific problem is worth doing so everyone can learn about the problem but just writing them off as trash is a poor way to deal with anyone as a business. I am sorry to hear about the death of your friend and mentor. There are some good places that can handle your needs. Give Springfield leather a try. They should be able to meet your needs. You could also try to find out who your friend purchased his leather from. Michael

I was asked to create a pattern with instructions for an upcoming community collage course. Please take a look at this. Comments are welcome. I tend to get long winded with explaining things. Feel free to use the pattern if you want to make one. This is targeted for a beginning leather student. Someone that has made a kit or two. Michael Click here for PDF pattern