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If you want their business than make a spare shoulder holster and take it in. Nothing sells like the leather in the hand. Its worth the time to make one extra for the business it could generate. If nothing comes of it than you have one to sell to someone else.

Thats very sad,

Looks like a standard clip. You can get it at Tandy #1240-24 $3.49. You can also get this one from Tandy #1239-24 $3.49. It is a little longer and has an additional "bump" to help stop the belt. I have used the second one for a tuckable and it works real well. For me even better than the first. I believe Springfield has them also.Basically you sheath the clip, rivit it in the sheath and then only attach the bottom of the sheath to the holster. The top is then tuckable. The one above it a very good example.

Ok I bought a rawhide maul from them and told them you send me. Do I win a prize?

That works.

GO with the line 20 stamps. No need for the stronger 24s and they are easier for the kids to snap and unsnap. you can also try here for bargains http://www.tandyleatheroutlet.com/

not uncommon with Tandy. Can you tell us what part of the instructions you are having problems with. Post any pictures that would help. I am sure we can assist you. What is the cat# of the kit? The more information we get the better we can help you

Nice work. If you make the slots a little wider I think you will be fine. I punch a 3/8 hole on each end and then cut between. Michael

A trick for super sheen is after its dried well and you use the antique, take a alcohol wipe and rub it over the same area. I find it takes the top layer of the Super sheen off and with it the excess antique dye. Works great for me.

It its not too late tell them its for a youth group and ask for a discount.

Nice stitching on the trigger guard. The whole thing looks nice. Whats your trick on the boning. I cant ever seem to get my trigger guard that well defined. Is that 8/9oz? Michael

See, thats what I get for not paying attention. I am sorry for my misunderstanding. forget about 95% of what I said. I still believe that making something useful early on can help fire up the desire to practice. Again my apologies.

Same same

No offense intended but since she is married she is old enough to figure out how she wants to learn. Give her the stuff and sit down beside her and you do something. Let her see you doing it. If she wants to do a kit before you think she is ready its ok. We all screwed things up early. When I got back into leather the first thing I did was make a business card holder. It sucked but it was something I could hold and use. It made me want to do better and more. If all I had done was practice on scraps I would have gotten bored and quit. Its only my opinion but just let her go and see what happens. Be there if she asks for help but let go of the reins. She will probably surprise you. remember its only dead cow. you can always get more. Again, only my opinion. You do what and how you want. Michael

What every you buy get an 8/9 oz thickness. Great for belts and holsters. Good to learn tooling on. Wither its a TR hide or the double shoulder from Tandy a solid piece will give you more usage than scraps. FYI, the sale at Tandy is over for the general public. If you are a gold or elite member you can buy it at $3.99 a sq ft. It can be worth it being a Gold member at $35.00 a year. Some great discounts.

what are you practicing to make? Tandy has a sale on double shoulders for 3.99 a sq ft until the end of the month. Thats a great price for practice leather.

You can get the wood slicker from tandy cheap $12.00. Sand the edges and use a #2 or #3 keen or regular edger. Than apply Gum Tragacanth to the edge and slick with the wooden slicker. I use denim for the places I cant get the slicker. Works great and isnt too hard at all There you have it. Several ways to do it by hand. All work. Michael

Try adding about 30% carnuba wax.. That should harden it up some and also make it good as a rub on finish when the resulting mixture is mixed 1:1 with neets foot oil.

Yes you could or you could get some on Ebay or even look around at some of the natural food stores. I got mine on Ebay. It was cheap and shipped fast. As long as its a new ring (eewwwww) it should be fine. Might not be 100% bees wax but as long as its malleable it should work fine. Michael

The amount of trigger to cover is one of the great debates. Yours is definitely safe. After that its all personal preference. You did a great job on the whole thing. Michael

First, Thank you for your service. If you do not mind saying, what is your budget for a machine and how many holsters do you plan to make in the first few months? Michael

Go to a pet store and get a bottle of "Get Serious" Its a Stain, odor and pheromone extractor. I always have a bottle around the house. You may have to modify the instructions but it should work. Be sure to warm it in the micro wave. I use a small bottle and just warm up a 1/2 cup or so. Then apply and let it do its magic. www.getseriousproducts.com It looks like they now have a version just for cat odors. Id try that. Let me know if it works for you. Michael

Question, why not just use bees wax? It is what is normally used to wax thread. You do not want the thread too sticky. Bees wax does a great job. Michael

NIce rig. Personally I would like to see a little more of the trigger covered. Its a personal preference but I always worry about the trigger getting bumped somehow and going off. Otherwise a really nice job. What did you use to color the leather or is that drum dyed? Michael

Yes use it on the thread and the awl. I stab the awl in to the wax. I have a piece stuck to the base of my pony so its always there. If the thread does not say waxed its not. Use the technique shown in the Al Stohlman book and wax a piece of thread. Once you see a waxed piece you will know the difference when you pick it up. For one thing waxed thread is never totally limp. FYI when I stitch I use a champagne cork on the back side to push the awl into. I have also used a wine cork. As you can see there are many ways. Nice pony. If you have not done so, line the jaws with some leather, grain side out. it will protect the project you put in the jaws. Basically if you use 6 foot lengths instead of trying to pull one long piece you will waste LESS because it wears out the thread to pull a really long piece through the holes again and again. With shorter pieces you do not throw away as much. It really does save thread. Michael