sandyt

Is it loose or is the machine seized? Are the internals and moving parts also that rusty? It would be WOW if you got that machine running good and with fresh paint. Lot of work Sandy.

Hello Glenn, I don't know how big a big bobin is. This is the only patcher I have ever had. My machine doesn't have a model plate like Evo160K's. German would be no problem. I'm from Holland. Most Dutch speak or read a fair amount of German. Sandy.

Haha, I was surprised also when I took the original wheel off. I went for a cheap temporarily fix. I just cut off the 'sleeve' from the wheel and put that piece back on the shaft and in the bearing. Locked everything in place with a little bit of locktite. Not to much, so I could take everything easily apart for maintanance in the future when I had too. Bit it sat realy sturdy and did not move or whatever. So I left it that way. Great setup. I regret selling it. Realy smooth and powerfull machine. I always make these 'conversions' on my machines when it has just a clutch motor. Sometimes I also put a frequentie converter on it.

Hello people, Is this a Claes 200-1? It is no rpx because the arm says needle 88. Rpx uses needle type 81. So the rpx manual says. Does Anybody have a manual for the 200? Google gives little info about this type. Or Claes patchers in general. Sometimes one topstisch is realy realy loose. 1 of 20 stitches or so. Can't find out why. Looks like a simple tension issue though. Bit everything looks fine and smooth. Max. stitch length is oke I guess. 5mm. Maybe a manual could help me out. Don't use the machine very much. Very very little actualy. But when I want to use it, it's always a hassle.

Very very confenient, strong, high quality, expensive. Why is it crap? I think people who used it, won't buy a servo if it brakes. But pay double the price for having it fixed. Or maybe That's just me. Those 'cheap' servo motors are populair because of the price. Not because they are better or stronger. It's true, the more stuff on the machine, the more stuff that could brake. You have to consider that. A clutch motor with some kind of speed reducer, would be the best. Almost unbreakable. And very low maintanance.

I guess it has something to do with the air operated back stitching. Just a thought.

This was my singer 211G166. I bought the pouley's new. Industrial grade. 80 euro's. V-belt 10 euro's. Lower grade or second hand would be way cheaper ofcourse.

If the motor runs 1400 rpm (not 2800), you could also place different secondhand pouley's. Realy small on the motor. Realy big (25cm??) On the machine. Takes a little work though. With such a setup you can sew realy realy slow by feathering the pedal with quick movements back and forth. I had a singer setup like this. I could sew slower as a servomotor. And as a bonus, the machine could not be stalled becouse of the realy big pouley.

I think we are missing something here. Both hook points are located slightly left and wright I think? So a one needle 'conversion' is not possible? But I am not familiar with this 2 needle machine though.

I have been playing with leather for an few years now. I never realised, the quality of the leather coold affect the stitch quality. Can't believe I missed this lesson. Feel pretty stupid. I mostly use belly. Money issue on one hand. On the other hand, I like the wrinkles. But it's deffinitly something to think about I guess.

No it is not my machine hyttogpine. I am thinking of bying it. It's in rough state though. Not sure. Clearance of 'my' machine is only half inch I think. Not that big as yours. Never heard of a two neadle with such a machine. Cool! Can't you have an adapter machined to hold one needle. Mount it and rise the needle bar to adjust the new height? Just thinking out loud. One of the two guys I told you about says he has feet for sale. 35 euro's each. If you are interested, I could pm you the email adress. But Constabulary also has a few though. Just let me know. Only drawback I know of,these machines tend to leave feeddog marks on the back of leather. They are good for heavy work.

Hyttogpine, I know there are 2 'dealers' in Holland who occasionaly sell these machines for way to much money. Sometimes with extra feet. I could wright them a mail. Or bring you in contact with them. I personaly never bought something of them though.

Thanks people. I don't see the vertical plate on the head on any singer. So it should be an Adler wright? Which classes are out there. 6, 7, 8, 20?? Have to google the classes. Don't think it handles 2 needles. The original photo is a little clearer. It only holds one needle. Thanks for the manual Uwe.

This machine is for sale now on an auction site for a pretty long time. I tried to ignore it but it keeps popping up!!! Maybe I should give it a go. Seller says there are no markings to indentify the machine, which I doubt. But that is what he says. It's too far from my home for just taking a look at it. I am just gathering some information before I take de 2 hour drive. Seller says it is in working order. Head only. Hope somebody reqognizes this brand and type? Greetings, Sandy. Another pick from the backside.

If you want to use the air feateres, I would reccoment a compressor like jun-air. Or other small compressors used for airbrushing and stuff. They are realy realy silent. They are as silent as a refrigirator. The air consumption of your machine is realy small. So no need for big air tanks. The smallest should do.

I am not sure, but I think it can sew one stitch at a time like an Efka stop motor.

This setup probably has needle pisitioning, thread cutter, air operated foot lift etc..... Like they use in factories. The air is needed for some of those features. The only benefit from a servo motor is its efficiency I think.

That picture reminded me of a bunch of needles I bought a few years ago of an auction site. I ordered rafflenbeul ms 200 needles and a few pakkages of other needles were included. Not the same but they look like your needles. I have used them as scrap metall for all kinds of hobby projects accept sewing. Today I looked them up and discovered they are for a mckay stitcher. Don't know that machine. But now I now they are worth something, maybe I have too treat them better. Or get myself a mckay stitcher.

Oh Wizcrafts, I did not even change the threads. The machine was setup as it was for the last year. Don't use it that much. I oil the machine more often than I use it. I guess the release bar just neaded adjustment. Thanks for helping! But due to al the 'playing' with the machine, I noticed the machine is also equiped with air operated reverse. The solenoid doesn't get a signal from the control box. Checked al the wires. Everything is oke. But I could just put a manual switch and a 24 dc powersuply on it. Project for a rainy sunday.

Now I read your post again, I realize your first hint was correct Gottano!! Thanks!

Hi people, thanks very much for the tips. I solved it just now. Did not sleep last night!! It was the tension release bar. Adjusted it several times. But everytime I made the same mistake. When adjusting, the presserfoot should be manualy lifted. My machine is air operated so it was already up. I thought that will do. But that was not the case. You have to operate the presserfoot manualy. Finaly my haertbeat can go down ones again. It was realy frustrating. So thank you very very very much people for guiding me in the right direction. Greetings from Holland...

Hello everbody, I need some help with my pfaff 1245 with efka control box. I have had this machine for almost 10 years without any problems. Untill today. The machine has a automatic thread trimmer/cutter. Everything seems fine BUT the thread through the needle is to short after cutting???? So, the next new stitch will pull back the thread through the needle. I have already dowloaded a manual and tried to check a few things. I think everything is good. I say think, because the manual is in English witch is not my first language. I can read it ofcoarse but al the technical terms make it diffycult. Does anybody know where to look? Thanks in advance.

Before I order one I would like trying to make one myself. I have a little lathe and a few peaces of hard plastic. Don't know how to call it in English. The butcher puts a board under the meat before cutting. It's made of that material. That Adler is definitly a great buy!! 266 For a good old one is a very good price. But you got an almost brandnew one!!! Everybody should get that lucky at least once in his life. Or two or three......haha... Sandy.

Hi Trox, The pulley's for the type of v-belt we are using only come in max. 20cm. But the taperlock for that size starts at 18mm. So that's not good. A pulley for our v-belt with a fitting taperlock is max 18 cm. That's pretty big for a upholstery machine like I used them for but not realy big for an Adler harness machine. The taperlock for this pulley is 14 or 16 mm!! You would have to make your axis bigger with copper foil. Just wrap it around your axis. I did this on all my machines. The taperlock squeezes around the axis, it works great for me. Never slipped or what so ever. I paid 63 euro's for this exact set including v-belt for my Pfaff 335 yesterday. They do ship to Norway. But that costs about 35 euro's though. There is an other option. They sell bigger pulleys. Let's say 25 cm like you requested without a hole for the axis. The guy in the shop would get back to me about the price. They can make a hole for you exactly fitting your axis. That's about 20 euro's. So it's not as straight to bussiness as I hoped it would be for you. Another thing. You told me (us) about your v-belt twisting on your pulley. I don't have this problem anymore. I am using a slightly different v-belt as you are using. Mine is 10mm wide and 6 mm deep. Yours is 9,5 mm wide and10 mm deep. Could that make the difference? Maybe your v-belt is hitting the bottom of the groove? You also have to remind this when you decide modifying your original wheel. My grooves are 7 mm deep. You have to go deeper with your current type of v-belt!! I never realized before there where that much differences in v-belts. I guess the smartest thing to do is looking for a different type of v-belt like mine. This will also fit your reducer I guess? 0,5 mm is not that much. Maybe than you can use your wheel as it is? Sandy.

Didn't know he is selling these reducers. I have to take a better look at his site. Didn't do that before because the prices of seconhand machines scared me! Also I didn't know cowboy machines were sold in Europe? If the y are sold new than there has to be some second hand machines out there. Of we go, searching..... My efka is indeed much older than yours. It's a clutch type. Nice Adler though. Sandy.