sandyt

I don't have enough experience with different brands. So I can not recommend a certain machine brand. But it looks to me, a machine with double feed (drop and needle) sounds perfect. Sandy.

Is this what heaven looks like?? Then I am not afraid anymore......

I hope wizz is just joking! I think wizz thought the machine was for the husband. He read the first post to quick maybe and didn't understand it. He doesn't have to apologize to anyone. He never showed disrespect to anybody. Never. Wizz is one of the most respectfull and helpfull people on this forum. Hoping you fooled me Wizz. Sandy.

It looks the same as my Adler 20 and 21. Should it move after loosening screw 3? I never managed to move them. They where realy realy stuck stuck stuck. Maybe I wasn't mad enough? Should give it a try next time. Sandy.

I guess I am rich after all.

With a paper shim, you could move the shuttle race to the needle. I have read this in an old adler manual. Don't know how many play you have to the needle though when you push the hook sideways to the needle. Is it almost touching already? Looks like it. I did this a few years back with an Adler. When I pushed the hook manually towards the hook, they would touch. But when sewing, I never had a problem. They didn't touch. But this was in my case though. I wouldn't recommend it to someone else, but it worked for me. Sandy.

You are correct, CowboyBob. Left and right a little screw. Middle a small hole for oiling. See picture. On my adler 220 it's just open. But no wick material or dust build up after cleaning. So there should be wick material in the reces? I have never bought a new hook, so I don't know if it's in there brand new. Sandy.

Hi people, I recently bought a bunch of used spare parts. Among them where pfaff hooks. While I am sorting them, a question came to mind. I always used to clean the little groove in the hook, see picture. I always assumed it was dust build up. Now, I looked at a few hooks and they look to be packed with a felt like material. Is this the way it should be? Is it an oil wick? Or is it dust built up? Sandy.

It took a while, but I finally had some sewing machine time. That 221 manual is great!! Why did I not find that one. Found a few, but not as detailed as this one. I walked it through and it seems to be the same machine as the 220 as far as I can see. It explained all the adjustment 'thingies'. The machine is sewing smoother now. I did all the adjustments what needed to be adjusted with the same measurements. The eccentric for the feed dog fork can be adjusted Uwe. I thought one screw should be in the groove of the shaft, but the manual said it can, but it doesn't have to be. I think that was why I kept heaving 'trouble' before. Only thing left, is the numbers on the stitch length adjuster are not corresponding to the real stitch length. 1 to 5 are almost 0. The adjustment is between 6 and 10. Not a big deal excualy. In the future I will look to it when it's getting annoying, haha. Just for information: The original feet are a little big. Great for big work this machine is build for, but for fine work to bulky. I changed them with durkopp feet (from a normall size compound feed machine) I had laying around. They fit almost 100%. Only needed very little tinkering. To everybody, thank you for your time! This realy is a great forum. Sandy Tjokrowidjojo.

I have never owned a Sailrite. So I am just guessing, sorry. But from what I have read about them, it's possible you are just asking to much from this little motor. Are you using a sharp and correct leather point needle with the correct thread size? This could also help a lot if it's wrong. Sounds to me the motor is struggling to punch through at low speed (less power). But again, I never owned a Sailrite. Sandy.

How many layers?

What are you sewing with this machine? Are you testing the speed control with or without material under the needle?

I will first try to Polish my German a little bit and try some German forums. My machine comes from the German army. Perhaps I will find something in German. Thanks for your hints about age and subclass. I guess I have to download every file with 'singer 144w' in it on the entire Internet, haha. Sandy.

I had the same problem a few times. Don't recall the solution and wich machines though. In my case it was something like the stitch lever being ofset. The eccentric wasn't set properly. At the end off the feed motion the lever would jump up a little bit, like going in reverse a small bit. Adjusting the lever corrected this issue if I remember correctly. Hope this helps. Sandy.

Why not just keep this this thread alive? Putting some picks, clips, issues in it once in a while. Finished work etc... I would definitely like to see more pics and finished work on these machines. There is not a lot out there on the net. Or is this against forum rules? Sandy.

Hi! The bottom (area with safety clutch) is a bit different. And the stitch length adjustment is very different. Don't know how this affects the basic adjustments though. I will try to find more manuals. Maybe I will find something helpfully. I 'just' need to know if the belt is correct. If so, I will just start adjusting randomly, until I find the adjustment for retarding the needle down stroke. And keep the presser feet in synch. Sandy.

After thinking a little bit more. If you can't find or understand the manuals, I would setup the whole original machine with the motor. Then see if it works in the first place. Then try disconnecting the cables for all the options you don't use except for the synchroniser (I think they have one). If it still sews, I guess you could put the motor on any machine you like. You only have the synchroniser to fit the handwheel/pulley. Sandy.

I only have experience with Efka, Quick and Hoshing. I could switch them to other machines. Mine had all synchronisers. I had to install them too. Without them they didn't work. But I never read a manual though. Just swapped them and tried it. It worked for me. Not a very fancy reply with knowledge but that's the way I did it and luckily it worked out. Like Yeti Belle said, there might be some set-ups locked in the computer. I would first try the motor on the original machine, before swapping. So you know for sure they work like a normal sewing machine. I don't think these motor can go as slow a you would like. These are not servo motors I think. But they should sew one stitch at a time. But not in slow motion. Hope you understand what I am trying to say here. Sandy.

Sometimes I am surprised what one can do with wood. Nice, I could use one.

Hi people, Is there a service manual out there? I have been searching for a few weeks now, but I can't find it. I am looking for timing marks for the shafts and belt. I can not find anything that looks like timing marks. I tried manuals for a singer 144w and a consew 744r which should be almost the same machine, but they do have timing markings which the Adler doesn't have in that place. I want to check these markings because the machine is not perfect in time. It sews, but not as smooth as it should. Sandy.

Always wanted to try something like you did. Great job. I like treadle or manual powered sewing machines. If you replace the big pulley on the table by a heavy one, you can sew everything that seiko can handle. You get more momentum with a heavy wheel. A bigger pulley on the machines also helps a lot like Dikman said. Sandy.

I have the machine, but no treadle, grrrr...... But hand cranking works fine though. I mostly use it for punching holes prior to hand stitching, haha. Don't realy have the need for sewing heavy leather stuff which this machine was designed for I guess. My adler 220 does most of my machine stitching. The Pearson is standing in the corner of my living room. I often hand cranked it for a few seconds just to hear and see it work. Best sound in the world. And the moving parts......wow, I just love it.

Hi people, Can anybody tell me if there is a Singer feed motion bell crank lever that will fit the Adler 30-1? It's a old black one. I broke mine!? Grrrrrr....... I was dismantling it for cleaning. I pushed to hard on the little screws that act as pivot points. Than I heard the crack. Pffff....... Now I am looking for a replacement. I haven't found a original Adler. Anyone who knows where to buy one? But I can imagine it will be very very expensive. So I was hoping for a singer replacement. The photo is just an example of the part I am looking for. Thanks in advance!!

JSLEATHERCRAFT why don't you want to use the eps? Is it because you want the needle to stop wright before it enters the workpeace pherhaps? If so, is it possible to offset the synchronizer? My old efka stops to high or to low when I turn the synchronizer. The bracket that holds the synchronizer in place is missing. So sometimes I have to re adjust it. Maybe you could tune it the way you want it to stop. Sandy.

You could use any machine like that. It's the pfaff 335 clone wright?? I have a pfaff 335. It's pretty heavy. Looks a bit heavy to be called 'transportable'. Also, you can use any machine on 12 volts. It just uses an inverter. Or am I missing something. I don't see a picture so I googled one. Sandy.