wizard of tragacanth

Man, Double K... you are nuts! I challenge myself to finish a one hour project in 3 hours. Sometimes, I make it! Nick

Frank, thanks for the tip on searching. It worked for me and I found a couple of things. Double K. In my perusing paddle holsters, I realized that a paddle is a very compromised design from the git-go. With diligence and experimentation, I'm sure you could work out a design but I am wondering why your customer could not be better served with a flat-back, snap-on design? It would be easier to execute and much more secure. It would take a little more time to don it, but I think it would be worth it for the better stability and security. However, I do not know his needs. Something like this Don Hume design -- https://www.donhume.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_5&products_id=837

I knew that my suggestion was not a perfect answer for you but it was "an" answer if nothing else was found. Actually I am surprised that you found anything with the search function here. I have rarely found answers using it. Good luck. I will be following this thread as I am curious as to what you find. Nick

Never done it but I would start here... https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=paddle Does this one give you any ideas? https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/paddle-mount-blade-tech-attachment-hardware-p-2089.html If I were attempting this, I would use Weldwood contact cement to put a layer of thin leather over the surface that would contact one's skin... maybe.

After thinking about it for bit, I think you should start with some cheap irons, like Tandy. You should experience the struggle and frustration of the experience. You need to learn how to improve a crude tool. The first thing that I learned was that I had to remove all of the black paint from the tines. That was not enough, so then I had to polish the tines with fine grit sandpaper and finally a strop. I tried rubbing the tool on a block of wax, which also helped but it was still difficult to remove the tool because the edges between the tines were still rough and would resist removal from the leather. I learned to use a wooden block to hold the leather down and pull against it to get the tool out. Presto! These are the types of things that you can learn only by using cheap tools. Once you have gone though that experience, only then will you fully appreciate a good tool but first you must pay your dues and suffer for the craft, learning these things through personal experience. You will be better for it. Starting with good tools is kind of like cheating and is basically robbing yourself of useful experience. Start out with all cheap tools. Your projects and progress may suffer a bit but you learn a lot from it. Get some cheap irons, but nothing with black painted tines. Good stitching is possible with diamond shaped tines. You do not need Japanese style irons, they are a luxury that should be reserved for experienced crafters. Extend this logic to other hand tools such as edgers and groovers. When you have experience under your belt I would recommend Horseshoe Brand edgers. Here is a link to their super comfortable handle with changeable blades that cut a rounded corner rather than a flat bevel. Much nicer and saves sanding. https://www.ranch2arena.com/collections/horse-shoe-brand-tools/products/65-2988-qc-western-edgers Nick

Yeah, you learned a few things. That's they way it works. Each project builds on skills and knowledge. It's a process. Nick

Like all of your creations... a work of art!

Beautiful work... I'm kinda worried about the ultimate outcome : /

I totally agree with GatoGordo on all points. Japanese tines are the best of both worlds. I only make holsters and would recommend 4mm for them. I use the Crimson Hides brand, which are fantastic but one reason that I especially went with them is that they make a single tine tool, which is very important for the way that I work. Unfortunately, the single tine tool does not come in the 4mm version, only the 5mm, and it makes a slightly larger hole. Wish it came in 4mm but I have no choice. Then I have the 2+5 tine set. Crimson irons are highly polished and super easy to remove from the leather. The price you see is in Singapore dollars. Right now $100 (S) dollars would be $80 in US dollars. https://crimsonhides.com/products/crimson-irons Nick

Thought I made a post here a few days ago but perhaps I logged out without sending it. I will try to reconstruct it. You will learn to work without making any finger nail marks. Focus on working with the pads of your finger tips, or sometimes a knuckle (for wet molding). I would not bother to groove this project. It is difficult to grove over holes as a beginner and you have a great chance of spoiling the project. Grooving is normally done prior to punching holes. Besides, this is a thin leather and grooving will only make it thinner and possibly harm the integrity. You could run a creaser because it would glide across the holes but I see no real point to that. Also, you would need to dampen the leather but you have already put a finish on it. Save grooving for a future project. There is no grain to leather but I do recommend sanding in one direction, e.g. left to right, not scrubbing back and forth. You need a variety of sandpaper grits. Depending on the projects that you do, that could vary from 80 grit to 600. Often, you will start with a lower grit and finish with a finer one. As a maker, it is your choice to set the style. Styles run from primitive, crude to high-polish dress. You can have unfinished edges or glass-like edges. What is your direction as a maker and who is your customer? Nick

NO GLUE? OMG! I suspected that. You did the right thing by taking it apart... good experience and a chance to improve it.

Chuck is right... that's a Tandy kit, and poorly done at that! Not worth $5 in my mind. Round holes are starting off on the wrong foot! The thick white thread is an abomination. Everything is wrong except the back stitching. Nick

This set will be real upgrade... not cheap though. This the only set that I have ever seen that has a "holder" for a line of type. I do not have any personal experience with the seller or this product. https://www.kevinleetools.com/products/updated-new-quality-brass-alphabet-stamp-set Nick

Just guessing here but are you trying to add stiffness so that there is no bow in the belt or to fight stretching? For bowing, I think you would need to use a metal band, for stretching, I think a strip of nylon webbing could work. Search Amazon for 3/4" polypropylene webbing. $21 for 50 yards. Search for "steel banding 3/4" and you will find that too. For example 3/4" x 148' for $44 Nick

A handsome piece of work there, Chuck.

Good work! You really captured the arcane vibe, with design, color and hardware.

Very nice work, and yes, that is a very deep and true Black. I tried Angelus Navy dye on one project and it had a lot of rub-off. Fiebing's Pro Black works for me, with almost zero rub-off but it can have a blue/purple iridescence to it at some angles in some lighting. Fiebing's USMC is Jet black but it has a lot of rub-off, so I never use it any more. Have you tried Tandy Eco-Flo Satin Shene for a more matte finish than Resolene? Not sure it would work to your satisfaction, but maybe. https://tandyleather.com/collections/leather-finishes/products/eco-flo-satin-shene

Really very, very "knife" work! See what I did there? Nick

Welcome back. Nice work. I'm excited for you!

Is your thread waxed or un-waxed? Is it Linen or Nylon? Linen is more difficult because it can bunch up behind the leather when pulled through a hole. I recommend Nylon/Poly. I'm wondering if your thread has enough wax on it, or if you are un-twisting the thread as you are stitching in the air while turning your work around. Stitching in the air is not a problem if you maintain the twist in your thread. Can you see the cords separating just as you are about to complete the stitch? To prepare the thread for use, use the same motion that you would if you were waxing it. Grasp one end of the thread with one hand and draw the thread between two fingers of the other hand. The tension and pressure on the thread consolidates the cords. Nick

Thanks for the suggestions. This belt will be used for daily concealed carry.

Nice work!

If it were my project, I may not clean the medallion at all but if I did, I would try a step-by-step solution. First would try dish soap and water with a toothbrush. That may be enough to keep the "heritage" look but not look so rough. If I wanted to go further, I would try to hit just the high-spots using toothpaste (a mild abrasive) on a layer of cotton cloth in my palm and using my other hand to work the medallion around without pressing too hard. This would highlight the letters and the edges of the medallion while leaving darker areas around the lettering and make US stand out. If that wasn't enough, then use buffing compound on a wheel. Nick

I don't want to buy a side because I only want to make this one belt, for myself. I am about at the end of my leather "career" and do not want to stockpile any leather. I have a Tandy handy and could layer two of their blanks but I do not have a sewing machine. I said HO because if I am ordering sight-unseen. I want good leather and HO takes some guess-work out of the equation. Thanks guys. Nick

Looking for quality 12 to 14 oz belt blanks e.g. Herman Oak or similar from U.S. supplier. Minimum length of 55", Nick