2palominos1bay

My Ferdco dropped a screw that is located holding side-connecting-bar to presser-bar-lift-link of foot lift components. This disconnection happens to be right by the upper tension post on my machine. Not sure if the screw went inside the machine /behind the face plate/ and is now waiting to wreck damage inside that housing. But as I'm studying this, wondering where to get a new hinge screw to replace the missing one, I'm wondering to myself if it is lodged someplace inside that cover. And then I see the thread-releasing-plate which is part of the tension post components is slipped out of position. My manual does not show what I need to see...like where that tension release plate should line up relative to the upper tension disk. I'm overwhelmed. With orders to get out. And the only one working on Black Friday? And ideas about who sells parts to replace the missing hinge screw is appreciated greatly. And ideas how to talk to an expert on making these repairs, well, greatest appreciation doesn't cover it. Thanks, Lisa Picture shows pressed bar lift link at is point of detachment and tread releasing plate. I think I have to go into the machine behind the face plate so YIKES!

I've promised to do a project for my world's-best-brother. I'm wading into deep waters, literally. No clue how to cover a boat steering wheel. Except I've done well on oxbow stirrups so I have false confidence. Questions I should ask are (1) materials for a boat wheel? Suppliers here's your moment! (2) tutorial recommendations for the lacing approach. (I'm good with the oxbow stirrup lacing but again, different beast.) (3) oh, and pretty much how-to on all the rest of it too. I'll be flying across country to do this. So my tools need to be considered in advance. Thank you!

Are you still doing steering wheels? If checking this site please let me know as I am doing one on my brother's boat. I've done many an oxbow stirrup, but that has no spokes, and different leather than this boat project.

Blasted snaps! I went to a custom bootmaker's site which was recommended to me for viewing a good snap tutorial. Unfortunately, that leatherworker had removed her tutorial on the subject. The basics of how much post should protrude when selecting snaps for varying thickness of leather and how tight the holes should be for inserting the post through adds to variables in success and failure of a seemingly simple task. I'm fairly certain I first mistakenly tried to set snaps in leather that was far too tight for the post to fan out when tapping the two snap pieces together. (Keep in mind that my products were being made using the best US skirting leather, not flimsier craft weight, so it took me a while to realize one of my problems was that simple.) I'm still seeking the right snaps for the job and this was supposed to be my easily made product line, not a nightmare project!

I make belts with saddle skirting and I like the quality of the heavy skirting for tooling. What I find, however, is that some people feel that the belts are too heavy. I'm now buying skirting that is 8-10oz but then I line it with 3oz. So not sure if I'm set on my process to find that perfect balance. Love to hear more about what played into your decisions and, that is a very nice belt.

I'm making some fashion items using 8-10 oz skirting leather that I skive down to 3oz to set snaps into. I'm using # 21 snaps that I get from Sheridan Leather. My last time on this site researching the best way to consistently set snaps is ongoing because successful setting is still inconsistent. I also have this vague memory of seeing a message about someone who makes snaps with a business logo/brand on it which I haven't found in the subject thread. I'm interested in engraved logos on snaps but my question is whether I saw a conversation about that here of if I'm imaging it. Obviously before I go to using my own "branded" snaps I also want a 100% success rate on setting snaps. (Back where I started.)

Hoping some ideas can be shared about where to get something to clear go across the front of a photo, maybe other than glass, for a leather frame project. Ideas and suggestions for suppliers appreciated greatly. Thanks!

I have a problem when doing rawhide wrapped and laced stirrups with the nuts loosening. This happened to me once and I remade a pair but again had problems with the drying rates of the rawhide and the securing of the nuts for the bolts. I've read where these nuts can be set by preening, but then I"m not sure how to handle hammering one side, with the other side laced up and avoid cutting the lace on the one side or both. Also, sorry to go "USA" snob, but these Chinese-steel bolts are not very, um, good. Thank you all for suggestions.

I recently covered a pair of oxbows with a beautifully, thick buffalo rawhide. I had a problem when lacing the sides. Things lookd really nice but i was troubled with one stirrup since the rawhide had dried enough at the bolt that I was worried the bolt and nut were getting some pressure as I worked the drying rawhide into a nicely formed appearance and laced. Nice looking or not, the nut did pop off and this seems a bit too rookie to have happen again with the next two pairs planned for starting tomorrow. (Don't we all work on NewYears?) Any specific remarks on lacing rawhide at that tab which folded over around the bolt for better resuls is greatly appreciated. I'm wondering if the hole for the nut was the wrong size for the job. Happy New Year

Thanks again for the information. I looked at the screw and it seems fine. So when I reviewed needle and thread size (thread 277 on top, 207 in bobbin) recommendations again I wondered if this is happening just with the thicker material because for those threads and leather weight if I'm pushing the envelope for a smaller needle 25 or 26. I tried sewing the same conditions again that breaks the needle but monkeyed the system --- if I heard the chewing noise, I stopped, hand rotated the fly wheel, started again.. Boy does this make sewing slow! The tests did sew, no breaks, beautiful stitches, just wondering.... it's usually the simpiliest things, right? Get some bigger needles?

Thank you again for your reply. My machine is a Ferdco 2000 (Bull). I am using nylon thread 277 on the top, and 207 in the bobbin for these saddle part sewing tasks. The needles have been 794, either 230 size 26 or 200 size 25 (when I ran out of the former). My wax pot has olive oil in it and I do wonder if this is completely wrong. Yesterday it was apparent that the screw which holds up the needle into the needle bar (the bar that drives the needle, is what I hope I am describing) might not be keeping the needle from being left behind when it is down into the leather, so that is when the needle is actually able to be still in the leather when the bobbin shutte hits it. Prior to a break, every stitch is perfect on top, bottom and length. Whether the screw is not able to tighten enough to hold the needle (and this machine is lightly, lightly used) or whether my thread lubrication is not assisting, remains unclear. I welcome further direction, and I hope this is getting close to resolution. My gut feeling from your insight, is that lubrication of the thread may be the key, That chewing sound that I detected before the last break seems very wrong for a properly set up system. Greatly appreciate your help, thank you, thank you. Lisa

Thank you so much! I was working with it again and found that my needle is actually getting pulled down by to the shuttle in these thicker sewing tasks. Now I'm chasing down why that would happen. I may not have always heard the raspy sound when this has happened in the past, but this time I was quick to catch it. I'm tightening the nut that secures the needle, but clearly there is something that is still not just right. I greatly appreciate your reply - thanks again - Lisa

Hey, you do have a problem! I have a knife by both... I posted recently about one making my life so much easier. You can't make a bad pick, just get the specific dimension from which ever maker you go to for the work you intend. That is why I have a knife from each, both are right for different challenges.

I have a Ferdco Bull.Word at Sheridan was that they closed; I was aware that some big health issues were affecting their machinist, but sorry to hear this news. So I need alternate source of troubleshooters on what is causing the needles to break. Anyone have an idea what I am doing wrong? My machine (I think*) has the correct size needles (though I'm running out of them again) and thread (I think*). The machine will sew perfect stitches absolutely beautifully when I do tests. Also, even when I break a needle, the stitches are perfect. I thought I was too close to hardware, but that's not consistent across breaking incidents. I thought I might be letting my piece slide too much and create torque. That is also not consistent. The only thing that is consistent is when I think I've tested the machine on enough scraps and go again to a valuable piece with lots of hours into it the machine breaks the needle on the shuttle and, well, let's say I'm proficient in a second language now AND I'm getting very good with my awl and harness needles! * I am running the machine on pieces like rigging plates and other double thick 12-13oz leather saddle pieces using a 794S needle and my thread is size 277 on the top and 207 in the bobbin. What should I try next? If anyone knows a good Ferdco resource in the Bozeman area, please reply!

It's been almost a year since I picked up something new from Leather Wrangler while in Sheridan, a small round knife. This tool is an absolute treat to use. It has become my "go-to" tool when I feel nervous or constrained with an approach. Since my skill level is what I would call "developing" this knife has been making me feel pretty good. Every time I pick this knife up I think it's time to say, "Thanks, Leather Wrangler!"

Really great gift. What did you do to restore the piece? Did you take before pics?

Love it! Sorry the measurement was wrong; never alone in that arena. I am trying to make a headstall for a Freisian-cross who likes to work the cows, tipping the "hat" to it's jousting origins and yet putting into the rig a functional bosal. So I really enjoy looking at other headstalls for ideas and inspiration, intended or not!

I am considering what approach might work for restoring leather seats with a little wear-destaining in an older corvette that my brother just acquired. Any further comments on touching up faded areas greatly appreciated! Maestro I see alot of Motorcycle Jackets in this condition. Often, the Jacket was black at one time but fades and wears out to a dark brown. I use a wonderful product called Doc Bailey's Leather Black. It cleans, conditions, waterproofs and blackens all in one. Im not normally a fan of all in one products, but this stuff is the bomb! It really seems to give the leather a new life. When used on a dark brown, it will darken but not "dye" it black. When used it on faded black (brown) it really looks good. They also have a leather clear for colored leathers but I dont think you can beat the "black". Hope this helps. Kate C

Hi Denise - I missed your session in Sheridan: can you speculate when a similar opportunity might arise next? thx!

Thanks Richard - that is part of why I selected Farrow for the one saddle that was going overseas where my thought was, "what do they do id the slide falls off?". thanks again for the favor of your reply!

Well it would help if I had a picture with that saddle showing the buckle! Unfortunately it wasn't visible since it is behind the fender. The Farrow buckles I used were picked up in Sheridan at the annual show, I think from Ron's Tools, who maybe just one of many suppliers. I think Ron"s has a web site that would show the buckle. It allowed me to construct somewhat atypical sized leathers; 2" wide, still from best quality hides taken along the top line where the hide was a consistent 13oz thick for the entire length of the leathers. Thanks for your reply and still trolling for more opinions.

Hi, new here, so you may have heard this before .... I registered yesterday, posted something last night and now I can't find it. MY question open for opinions about Farrows vs Blevins, somewhere under saddle construction I think. Help. Thanks! Name: lisa UserName: 2palominos1bay IP Address: 216.166.168.55 Email Address: 2palominos1bay@gmail.com

New on to the site, sorry if this is well dressed previously in earlier strings. I used Farrow buckles recently when doing a custom job for someone who waned leathers not as wide to allow using standard size Blevins buckles. Now some folks have seen this option when coming in to work out a saddle plan with me and some are liking the option. So would love to know who likes them for what type of use. Again, my first run with Farorw buckles was great, but it was used accommodating a very much lighter saddle, tiny rider , lighter type of horse and Farrow buckles gave me some flexibility for that occasion.