Splash

I make this kind, it fits the beer bottles. I measured the bottle circumference, added the leather thickness, plus 3/16. why 3/16? because the first one I made with no tooling, I added 3/32 just for good measure and it was tight. the second one was tooled like this one and it shrunk. I am lucky to have a lathe at home so I have a "bottle" form that is about 3/32 wider than a regular bottle so I can push the damped koozie and use a hammer if needed to remove it.

I believe that the question was not about if a dummy gun is available or not, The question was about anyone having a already made pattern for such gun (S&W 500). Me personnaly have both, an 8" S&W 460 X frame and the 4" S&W 500, and do not need a dummy to make a holster for them. I do not have a pattern on digits since the only ones I have made were for me. Spitfire, if you have the actual gun, the first thing you need to figure how do you (or whoever wants the holster) would like to carry that heavy piece? Once you know that then you can put your brain housing group (head) to work. The most confortable holster I have ever worn, I bought it before I got interested in leatherworking. The holster is called the Wyoming Combination Holster by Ringler Custom Leather Co. It is hard to duplicate but not impossible. I am working on my 8" 460 now since I put a scope on it. It is not an easy task to make a holster for such big firearm.

I 100% agree. I have found no use for it.

Woman jean belt loops are either 1.5" or 1.25" depending on the manufactory

If I was you, I would measure the with of the Slide. The norm is that 9 and 40s are same with, 45s are slightly wider. I believe that the 9mm slide is .9" wide and the 45 is 1" wide. may not seem to be a big enough number, but it may cause some problems with retention (too tight on this case)

I would get the stock set (if they are made out of metal) cut the washers and just glue them with some good wood glue, epoxy will be too brittle. Then turn them on a lathe. this gives me an idea for my "bar hopper" build..... the issue will be the sealing of the grain/fibers. several ways of doing that, I just dont know what would be the best one of all.

great improvement from the previous. Like Snubby said, if it works for you, then great. The only thibg I would have done is to give a little more clearance on the grip side. Your design its flat on top and close to the grip unlike Red's holster. Look how much space he has between the grip and the leather, it makes unholstering easier.

LWS, here in OK and anywhere for that matter is the same way. However, his point was that some times he gets out to do some work and leaves his wallet inside his truck. This way he alwasy have his license. If you are very deliberate and tell the peace officer that it your license is inthe same location as your firearm, they'll give you instructions.

check here, they are quick. never have had an issue with them. http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/multi-mold-products

the procedure you described is correct and just added to the front, However, I would use 8-9 oz leather, 6-7 oz is too light IMHO

This is one I made for a guy that mostly wears khakis shorts. He wanted a suede lined backing (so it will stick to the inside of the pocket) with a pocket for his CCW License. this is a right handed and the backing is sewn at the bottom so the hand can fit un-interrupted. a week later he called me to make one for his wife.

That is a great looking walet. Only question I have is on the exhaust pipe, is there a reason for being on the left side of the bike? I've see them right side shift, never left side pipes. I know is neat picking but , being a HD owner/rider myself, was the only thing that jumped out at me. Having said all that, if I was the friend that received that walet, I'd be happier than a preache's son at a Bike-Babe party....

One thing I forgot is that on the first holster I make from that finished template, I make it from low quality/cheap leather. I do that so I dont waste some good HO or W&C leathers in the case that the pattern needs adjusments.

Red, you are spot on. At first I wasn't seeing eye to eye on your comment, after a closer look, I could not agree more. If those straps are not secured to the top, the gun will always swing outwards or turn upside down. Talking about retention, those Kahr pistols fdo not have many places you you to get molding right for retention. Most of the retention comes from the details on the the trigger guard, yours is not there. I would bring the stitch line on the trigger side at least 1/4 inside. That way, you are stretching the leather when wet molding bringing up all the details and with details retention will not be an iaaue. just my 3 cents.

Biglew, like Snubby, I also use paper. One thing to remember, paper does not stretch or shrink like leather do. If you like details and good retention, I would go with a front and back type holster (pancake style). You get great definition and good to great retention without having to add a thumb break. This is what I do for my patterns: 1. Get a piece of cardstock type paper to do your prototype pattern. Construction paper works, but you have to find a piece that will be big enough. I use grocery store paper bags, they are hard enough to start with plus they are usually free when you go to the store. (I use those bags for targets too, cut it in the right place, you get a torso target) 2. Trace the gun as close as you can. Make sure you cover all aspects of the firearm (trigger guard, trigger, grip, hammer, sights.......) 3. Measure the thickness of the gun along the stitch line. 4. Divide those measurements in half. 5. Add the thickness of the leather (e.g. for 1911s they are usually 1.25 or 1 1/4 in at the slide divide that in 1/2 and you get .625 or 5/8 in. If you are using 8 oz leather, then add .125 or 1/8 in to the .625 or 5/8. 5/8 + 1/8 = 3/4; .625 + .125 = .750) 6. That results will become your stitch line. 7. Trace the results from step 6 along the gun trace (I usually mark those with hashed lines) 8. Mark the outline of your envisioned holster on that paper and there you have it, your own pattern. Make sure you take in consideration the belt loops, and seam allowance. Belt loops are usually 5/16 wide by 1.5 in long. 9. Once I am satisfied with the pattern, I transfer to a heavier cardstock so I can use it many times. My patterns are tight so I can get good retention without the use of a thumb snap. That means that when wet molding, I stretch the leather some.

+1 on Reds point. Was looking for something like that....

Ok, #8-9s are good for 9oz leather. However, be mindful that leather will give and the solid kydex dont. so, when setting the eyelets, be careful and go slow so you dont split the roll

1. Yes; JLS could not explain it any better 2. yes/no. the bobbin thread gets pulled into the leather by the top thread, when the correct tension is apply to both, they both meet in the middle. see pic. 3. See JLS comment 4. Yes, see pic

I am not tracking, that picture is a coyote color kydex holster. you dont need eyelets for Hybrids, most ppl use T-Nuts to use with the chicago screws. Am I missing your point?

If you want something small, look at this one, all you need is to add another mag to the side.

I dont disagree with Double C, but to me it all depends on the environment where the sling is going to be used. If it is lightly that will see rain, sweat, and any moisture for that matter, I would use close cell foam. The same thing used for Motorcycle seats.

Good looking belts. I have a few long spine stingray that I want to make a belt like that. I have not had the courage to cut it up just yet.

you can use rivets of eyelets. If I am making one with adjustable tension, I just use a Chicago screw with some rubber grommets, no eyelets

Eric is a good guy and very good at making holsters. I am not sure if it is the picture or my eyes, but I would check the thread tension. It looks like it is not pulling the bobbin thread in.

for the start stitches, yes. I dont glue, I burn the tips at the end. I use 277 in both thread and bobbin