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Mike516

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Everything posted by Mike516

  1. Mike516
    I have this exact machine, so I have no interest other than to offer advice. I'm not trying to insult you or get it for cheap. I was trying to help you sell it. But I don't know everything, so maybe I'm wrong. Kindly disregard my previous posts. Best of luck to you on your sale.
  2. Mike516
    $1610 is with them having to ship it. Keystone is $1485 if you pick it up in store. I would only add the shipping if you have to ship it too. But I'm not looking to argue with you about price. I'm just saying it sounds a little on the high side to me. Once you drive the car off the lot it loses a lot of its value, even if you park it in the driveway.
  3. Mike516
    Just an FYI, I bought this machine for somewhere I think it was around 1400 or 1500 in Philly. I got a warranty and I was able, probably still can, call the guy at the store for help if I had a problem. 1300 still seems a bit high to me being that it's used. That may be why you're having a bit of a hard time selling it. Then again it's only been a week so what do I know.
  4. Mike516
    I have the Craftool Hand Press # 3990-00 from Tandy but I don't use it much. I have always set my copper rivets by hand but it occurs to me there should be a setting die for this machine. I don't see one on Tandy's website. I'm going to call them on Monday, but I wondered if anyone knows if they make a setting die for their #9 or #12 copper rivets and burrs. Thanks
  5. Mike516
    I wish I had thought of this Idea before going with this burnisher but I didn't. Sometimes I think too two dimensionally. I think I'm going to try and find a 3/8 inch chuck for the other side. It's a really great idea.
  6. Mike516
    I did the same as Red Cent. Cheap and old, single speed 2400ish rpm Sears Craftsman grinder...took off all the safety stuff and grinding wheels. Only difference is, I found a burnisher I could attach to the shaft. I'd like to attach a sanding wheel to the other end but haven't gotten around to look into that yet. All in it cost me $10 for the old grinder and around $50 for the burnisher, but you can find them cheaper. I think the one I got is a little more expensive because it can go on a 3/8 or 1/2 inch shaft instead of going into and needing a chuck. I would keep it at around 2000 - 2500ish rpm, and variable speed would be better. Just be careful not to burn your edges.
  7. Mike516
    Thank you!
  8. Mike516
    How much is this from Weaver please? I haven't set up a business account with them, I don't see a phone number on their website and they don't answer emails. Thanks.
  9. Mike516
    Can't tell if that's sarcastic. But yea, at least 20 hours. Wish I had the time to take a drive, but I don't. Which is good because it means business is good. I was just observing that someone is gonna get a good deal if they know what they're looking at.
  10. Mike516
    Good price. Wish I was closer, I'd come pick that up even though I don't really "need" it.
  11. Mike516
    Ok, so I called and got hold of someone by phone due to the wobble I was getting. He seemed like a nice fellow and suggested possibly due to both set screws not being able to be tight that's where the wobble was coming from. He told me to send him pictures and he would see what he could do to help. Sent the pictures and nothing. So I waited a few hours and texted him again and he says he got the pictures, he's not sure what I should do about it but he's going to think about it some more. My wife thinks he blew me off. I say he's going to text me back maybe after the holiday weekend. Let's see what happens. I'm still hopeful there are still businesses out there who care about their customers. Hey burnisher guy, if you're on these forums and read this, please text me with a solution or even to say you don't know what to do so at least I can be right in an argument with my wife for a change. Thanks. I'll keep updating this thread as things evolve.
  12. Mike516
    Right. There are dogs that are so big and strong that no matter what you do you may not be able to keep him from breaking a welded D ring or tearing the leather or breaking a rivet etc. There are always going to be those little imperfections in that one piece out of a million hardware or strap. I make every effort to make every collar as strong as possible. That doesn't mean I don't worry about a collar failing.
  13. Mike516
    Yes, that's right, I do make them with copper as well. Those are very strong, just not everyone's taste. I like the rustic look of them, but not everyone does.
  14. Mike516
    It seems to work! I only have one set screw engaged on the sleeve but it seems to work ok. I wouldn't say it's 100% dead true, but it's close enough to work. I wish I could have contacted the seller though. Their email both on Amazon and their website is no good. I wonder how they're staying in business with no way other than phone number to contact them. But like I said, it's good enough, so I can't complain.
  15. Mike516
    I would like to note, I don't use rivets or snaps with my buckle collars and I won't use them if I start making leashes either. I'm more comfortable using chicago screws and a dab of locktite for those. I have stainless steel, but I've come to like the nickle plated solid brass ones more.
  16. Mike516
    I would suggest if you're using double caps, get the anvil with the concave's for the caps. If you're using a flat anvil, you're teetering the cap that's on it and that would be why it's not setting correctly. I use SLC rivets every day, which are the same quality of Tandy's and don't have any issues. It did take me some time to sort of perfect my technique, and trust me if I can do it anyone can
  17. Mike516
    Gotcha. Thanks.
  18. Mike516
    That one you linked from Amazon comes with 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch adapters. Are you saying the 1/2 inch one doesn't work?
  19. Mike516
    I have a cocabolo dremmel burnisher that I been using for a couple of years, but it's become a little unwieldy if you have to use it a lot. I wanted something I could have both hands free for doing thin straps. So I was thinking of buying one of the pre-made burnishers, but they're big and expensive. I have this old new Sears bench grinder that I got at a garage sale some years ago for like 10 bucks that's been sitting sealed in a box on a shelf. I don't know why I bought it, I had no use for it. It's still sealed in a box probably from the 70's or something. After reading this thread with all the ideas I thought why not? You guys are using washing machine motors! I busted it open, disregarding the don't take this off and don't operate without that thing, and took the wheels off to check the shafts and it looks like it'll work with that Amazon one. I wasn't too sure because this is a 3450 rpm one speed fits all light duty grinder, but you guys are saying 3450 works so what the heck. All in, it's gonna be around 60 bucks and if it works I'll be thrilled and wanted to thank you guys for these posts. I'll update this when I get the burnisher.
  20. Mike516

    Hello Johanna. Am I in trouble or something? I can't start new topics in any of the sections. At first I thought something was broken or being worked on, so I figured I'd wait a day or two and it would be fixed. It's still not fixed so now I wonder if I been put in time out because I did something wrong?

    Thanks.

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    1. Johanna

      Johanna

      I just looked at your account and everything seems normal. Did you click the "create" button at the top of the page? 

    2. Mike516

      Mike516

      OMG! Lol duh. I'm not good with change sorry. And getting old sucks. Thank you and so sorry to bother you.

  21. Mike516
    Thanks. I read through the posts and wound up getting the Royalmax ones, so it's going to take a while. I'm going to go to HF at some point for a compressor too, but decided to get the better AB's since it comes out to about the same cost.
  22. Mike516
    Yea, I hear you and I don't usually go for power equipment at HF. But I have never held an AB in my life so I don't want to spend a lot of money before I know if I can do anything with them. I have some dyes, some old stains and A LOT of scrap so testing isn't an issue. I figure it's worth the $100 or so investment to see what it looks like, but I will do some investigations before I buy anything. I'm also not adverse to giving dyes another shot if I have another medium to apply them. I didn't like the way they colored the leather and I think I got some dyes from Tandy that had been frozen at some time so they were ruined and I didn't realize it. Thanks again for the assistance and advice.
  23. Mike516
    Ok, I'm going to try the HF one and see what kind of results I get. Thanks.
  24. Mike516
    I see everyone talking about dyes, paints, finishes and acrylics. I'm sorry if I missed it but I didn't see anyone mention stains. I use pretty much exclusively fiebings leather stains for my projects. I do paint and use block-out and finishes. But whenever I apply stain with a dauber I tend to get quite a bit on the back of the pieces, so I was thinking of using an airbrush for a cleaner end product. I was wondering if this would be possible or are most of the stains too thick?
  25. Mike516
    Thanks Art. Looks like the adjustment worked for now. How long did your blades and nylon roller last? Have you ever had to change them?
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