Camerius

No worries, Big Sioux. I have no problem being told that I'm wrong at all. I just want to know why I'm wrong, if it so happens, with an informed and logical answer that I can learn and grow from.

I have read that thread, and too asked some ol' timers about this matter, whom told me that it did not matter which way the thread was twisted unless you were using a sewing machine, and if this happened to be an European or US made model. Now, being me, I trust their word as they have a longer history and knowledge about what they are doing than me, so hence my answer. If it's wrong, then I would like to know, but I don't think I can change those ol' timers stand though...

The thread twisting only matters when you are using a sewing machine for the stitching. This from the European and the US machines feeds the thread diffrently. When it comes to handstitching, then the twisting of the thread does not matter. Just get what you like, make sure that you got the right thickness of the thread vs. the SPI that you are using, wax it up and just go ahead.

Very nice work, Kevin.

I had a look at it, Mike, but me being in Europe, the cost of shipping to where I live besides not having the use for it yet (or the total amount that it would cost me in the end), I haven't said anything. Good luck with selling it though.

Hello from Denmark.

Well, there we go! Thanks for setting things straight.

Sorry for the late reply, but I have been busy here with some other stuff. I don't know that red box at all, as the only Barbour that I know use is the "normal" wrapping of Barbour. It seems like there are more companies that are making the Barbour thread. Just take a look at AbbeyEngland's Barbour: http://abbeyengland.com/Store/tabid/77/CategoryID/202/Category2ID/109/Level/2/ProductID/68749/language/en-GB/Default.aspx Here it is stated that it is Coats / Barbour thread. So from the get go, it looks like Barbour is making their own in Ireland, then Coats is making their version of the Barbour with Campbell-Randall doing the same. As to if they are all one and the same I can't say but maybe someone more knowledgeable may be able to answer this.

That is the same thread as Barbour. I use the 18/3 linen thread myself and quite like it. You will have to wax it up with some beeswax yourself, mind you.

That looks really awesome! Good work, and really great stitching.

I use my granit slab, then I put my small cutting matt on top of that, then my poly cutting board, and a piece of 2mm leather scrap to save the tips of the pricking iron when I punch through it. I too, try to get it all the way through, but guess that I am being overcareful when punching it through the leather when it's not needed.

Normally no, but the Seiwa's are meant to be punched all the way through the leather, to make the stitching holes. I too have the pricking irons that are for marking only, and then used with a awl to open the leather for stitching. I have tried this method but found that there are and were too many variables in handling both awl, stitching and the pricking iron for me to focus on, so I went with the punch through pricking irons instead until I get better at the stitching first.

I *think* that part of my problem is that I don't punch the pricking iron through all the way, so the slant is too narrow for the thread to sit properly when I stitch. And I can follow you on the scarp piece practise, as I do that as well.

I'm using a Seiwa #3 pricking iron on that piece and I too have watched Nigel Armitage's videos more than a few times to get the hang of how to do saddle stitching. I think that my main problem is as you point out, that my stitches are not consistent, and for some reason that escapes me though I try hard to do it the same way every time, and is wandering off. Something that I will work harder on to get right, so thank you for pointing it out to me, and too the help with how to finish my stitching.

Very nice work!

Made this ladies wallet with two card slots, based on a passport case that I came across on the web. Changed the original design around a bit, coated it with my own 50/50 beeswax and neatsfoot oil mix. I still need more skill and practice with my hand stitching, so will mainly be focusing on that.

Good to hear, and please share the information if or when you get asked about it.

No worries. Here you go: Leather finishes.pdf

Says on the YouTube video that it is a mix of beeswax, olive oil and orange oli. No measurements are given. However, I use the same mix as Dwight in my own 50/50 oil and wax mix that I got from a SCA leatherworker, that are doing traditional periodical projects from the Middleages/early Renaissance. If you want, I can dig out his three types of wax mixes that he uses for his work. Just let me know.

Thanks again, guys.

Thanks and will pass it on to someone in need.

Tried my hands again on a bi-fold wallet with four card slots. This time I gave it a different shot and made it out of 1.2mm (2½ ounce) veg tanned leather, which was not a good idea as the leather was/is too pliable. My stitching is still quite bad, and needs way more practice. Hate to still be stuck at level suck but hope that it will change in time. Ah well, upwards and onwards.

I'm using the Seiwa pricking irons from goodsjapan.jp, and quite like them. Maybe have a look at those?

Good work, Joe. What thread did you use?

Hahahaha, my own collection is starting to take up space here as well , but I got two extra slots to go with in the tool roll yet, so I should be safe for now. One other thing you too could have the pricking irons in, is in a block of wood with holes drilled into it. Might be worth to have a look at? C.