Jump to content

Tesla Ranger

Members
  • Content Count

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tesla Ranger

  1. Pics would help. Just judging from the first pic I would assume I would stitch the exterior/visible seam first. Then I could fold the "rear" of the pocket into the seams for the main compartment. Alternatively, I could start the exterior stitch in the middle of the bottom seam and stitch in both directions so that the pocket closes as I stitch. There's a few other ways this could probably be done depending on how the rest of the bag is assembled. We'd need more angles to pin down the exact technique used.
  2. Prices are the appropriate tool to reduce the likelyhood of this scenario. It goes back to supply and demand. If the demand is outpacing the supply then the price should rise until the two are at equilibrium. That's difficult to do in the crunch of the moment though. My shop tends to be feast & famine most of the year. I'll go a week or two with one or two orders and then get five or six in a few days. The only thing I can do is take that into consideration when I give delivery estimates. If I have a bunch of orders on the docket I'll give an estimate that's at least a week longer than it would be otherwise. I can only work on so many orders at a time so the natural consequence is that orders wind up shipping later.
  3. Thanks for the suggestions! It sounds like a disposable surface (cardboard, paper, etc) is a popular solution. I'll look into the polyurethane and Corian though. If nothing else they might save me a lot of parchment paper!
  4. We're going to be moving within the next couple months and as part of that I'm gaining a dedicated work space. That's nice enough on its own the space is large enough for me to have a few different benches for different tasks and I'm planning to have one dedicated to staining. I'm sure I can build the structure of the of a staining bench but I'm having trouble figuring out what type of surface I'd like. To date I've been working on a piece of melamine-plated MDF (typical Home Depot stuff). I lay down parchment paper and/or silicon when I'm going to stain something but it still manages to get a bit messy from time to time. Gel stains have been easy enough to clean off it but Tandy's Water-based stains or Fiebling's dyes don't seem to come out at all. I've also noticed that my conditioner doesn't entirely clean off the the table with some Simple Green and elbow grease so there's a waxy feel that's slowly building up. The parchment paper is a reasonable way of keeping stains off the table but it tends to move around and stain finds its way off the paper from time to time. The silicon mat I have works a bit better (at least it stays put) but it needs a thorough scrubbing after each session or old stain can transfer to the next project. And again, the Tandy waterstain stains the silicon just as much as the leather. I suspect there must be a better surface out there for this sort of work. Maybe a flat sheet of glass? A particular kind of silicone? Stainless steel? Or is it more practical to use a disposable surface like paper or a thin sheet of plywood/MDF?
  5. I usually bend the leather before I stain it and if it's going to be a sharp bend I'll use a sponge to apply a bit of water to the flesh-side of the leather. Cracking isn't normally a problem for me but I've noticed that Tandy's brand of Water-based stain frequently leads to cracking and wrinkling. I have a good conditioner that I use on everything that gets stained but I'll still get the cracking/wrinkling with the water-based stains. It might be that it's just a few of the more commonly used one (Dark Brown for instance) and not the entire brand, but it happens often enough that I avoid using the water-based stains for anything that needs to be flexible.
  6. There's some different approaches. On the odd occasion I might use kote and burnish it well during the application. That seems to work pretty well for large areas that will be rubbing against something routinely. Alternatively, I'll stain & finish it the same way I do the grain side. I tend to use gel based stains and tan-kote for finish and so far I haven't had any problems. Installing a lining is a good solution, but time intensive and generally overkill for most projects.
  7. Most leathers can be heat embossed but that requires equipment specifically for that design (at least a stamp and something to heat it up). Unless you're planning on mass producing the journal covers (which doesn't seem to be the case) then an applique is probably the most practical approach. You can carve a piece of veg tan and then stitch it to the pigskin before it's applied to the journal.
  8. I'm not familiar with RTC off hand but the other two would probably be sufficient to prevent leeching. Conditioner is pretty easy to find and generally inexpensive. You can usually find some form of it at any hardware or sporting store if nowhere else. I use Obenaufs brand personally but different craftsmen have different preferences.
  9. In theory, any finish should keep the stains from leeching out of the leather on to other surfaces. In my personal experience, that hasn't been much of a problem with any of the stains or finishes I've used. I prefer to use Fiebling's Tan-Kote since it's the least Turn-the-leather-into-reflective-material finish I've tried. Even Eco-Flow's Satin Finish is a higher gloss than I would tend to prefer (and Super Shene is really high gloss). I would also condition the leather after the fact. It may or may not prevent any leeching but it does keep the leather in better shape. I would say it's a good habit to develop.
  10. I recently had an entirely unrelated issue with Tandy (which I documented on my blog) which is entirely different in context but similar in that it was at least unethical if not illegal. I had been shopping at Tandy for 5-6 years and figured it might have just been an oversight or human error. I tried contacting their corporate office multiple times but never had any response from them. It was that lack of basic respect more than anything else that convinced me not to do business with them any longer. I like the local staff out here and they've never behaved in anyway that I could complain about. I can't say the same for the corporate side of the company, especially with a PR person who seems unwilling to relate to the public. They seem to have one person who serves as the PR, Executive Assistant, and sole recepient of their support email (tlfhelp@tandyleather.com) and she'll only forward a message on to someone else if (I'm assuming) she thinks its worth the time. In any case, I'm not willing to shop somewhere that doesn't respect equality or it's customers. Over the past few months Tandy has shown me that their corporate side doesn't respect either so I've been switching to other suppliers. So far that's been a pretty rewarding excercise. I'm finding that there's a lot more options out there and the prices are comparable if not better than Tandy's. Even if I wind up having to rely on mail-order for most of my supplies it's looking like my bottomline could very will wind up better off.
  11. Tanning has always been a messy business though on the industrial scale it has the potential to be more or less a wash. The biggest problem with vegetable tanning is that it requires a large amount of oak and hemlock trees. Those trees take a long time to grow so they tend to be cut down faster than they can regrow. Chrome tanning is much faster and economical but whether or not it's damaging to the enviroment depends on the practices of the tannery. If they're using one type of Chromium and handling it properly it's fairly safe but another type of Chromium can be very damaging to the enviroment. This isn't usually a problem in North America or Europe but has resulted in some nastiness in India. Like anything that has to do with the enviroment, the real answer is a bit complicated. There's a few papers on the topic though I've only gotten to read one of them. The general impression seems to be that assuming the tannery is using best practices then Chromium is the least damaging to the enviroment. It still takes a whack of energy and water so it's hard to say if it's truly sustainable without considering where that energy and water are coming from.
  12. Just about any heavy leather ( 7 or more oz) should work fine. It can take a fair bit of hammering with the mallet to transfer a larger pattern and the tap-off might get stretched or warped if it was made with a lighter leather. The leather doesn't necessarily need to be decent quality either, it just shouldn't have blemishes or scars (since those could kind of transfer too). I usually use 8-9 oz scrap. It doesn't seem to work quite as well for larger patterns, or patterns that involve a fair amount of symmetry (like some geometric shapes) but for natural or small patterns (just a couple of inches across) it works pretty well.
  13. Short of a Craftaid you can usually get the same, or at least a very similar, effect by making a tap-off. You cut the mirror of the design you want into a thick piece of leather then after it dries you can flip it over and use a mallet to transfer the pattern to a piece of cased leather. I've made both good and bad results with this technique, but short of having a craft-aid for every single pattern I want to repeat, it seems to be the best approach.
  14. If I had to guess I'd say they're some sort of multi-tool (as suggested) and they're probably chrome plated.
  15. I'm not sure how you could line it in a practical way after it's assembled. There may well be a method but I'm afraid I'm not aware of it. Generally I tend to install the lining before I assemble a bag. I cut it about an inch larger than the piece to be lined, glue it down, trim the lining and proceed with assembly.
  16. It is a topic as complicated as it is relevant. I'd like to thank the last two posters for offering some clear data on the issue. Tanning is a very resource intensive series of processes with a long array of byproducts, many of which are toxic well before you get to the point of using tannins or chromium. It's difficult for me to envision any tanning process that is ecologically neutral, much less "eco-friendly" (which, to be fair, is usually a misleading term). When it was done on a relatively small scale in geographically sparse areas the environment could generally withstand the impact (provided over hunting wasn't an issue). The industrial revolution, among a great many other things, permitted the process to be done on a far more concentrated and massive scale. In some ways this has been beneficial (both for the environment and for humanity), and in some ways it hasn't. These improvements resulted in far more pollutants being concentrated in specific areas but they also allowed for potentially less harmful processes (such as chrome tanning). The proverbial elephant in the room is that there's only so much leather for us to work with as a byproduct of how massive the cattle industry has grown. The USDA estimates that there are somewhere between 1.3 and 1.5 billion (that's 1,500,000,000) cattle currently sharing the planet with us and every other organism. This number is absurdly higher than what the planet could naturally sustain, or even what we could sustain prior to the invention of synthetic fertilizers (itself an interesting if controversial topic). As the human population has grown (which it's been doing at a rate I can only describe as stupendous since the industrial revolution) the organisms we cultivate have grown with us. Both these numbers have grown far larger than the natural environment could ever sustain and are only possible due to advances like synthetic fertilizers. I suppose it's up to the reader whether that itself is a net positive or not. All these cattle do create a problem in the global environment. Aside from the swaths of land that have been re-purposed for their care and maintenance and the generally abysmal state of "corporate farming", cows happen to release a fair deal of methane. This is a byproduct of their ruminant digestive systems. It isn't anything new or undiscovered and when there were only a few million cattle the environment could safely absorb that amount of methane. That's no longer the case when we've increased the number of cattle so exponentially. The agricultural industry is firmly seated along with energy production and mass manufacturing as the biggest causes of climate change. The good news (and there is good news) is that it is that of the three it is the one with the best potential for innovation. An excellent example of this are several livestock farms in the US and UK (and possibly elsewhere) that use the methane generated by their cattle to generate their own power. Rather than release that methane into the atmosphere they recapture it to be energy-independant. Several of them wind up creating an energy positive, meaning they're making more electricity than their using, and they're paid for that energy when it's added to the power grid. This creates an obvious financial incentive for relatively small farmers (I haven't heard of any corporate farms making use of this, but hopefully they are) to make this change. In the end, whether or not something is good, indifferent, or bad for the global ecosystem (which includes us, coincidentally) is a terribly complicated topic. Many of the conclusions seem to rely on personal ethics and philosophy as much as science. Is it better to have a larger human population despite the burden it places on the planet? Technology itself is, by its very definition, just a tool but have we as a species used it to better or worsen our planet on a whole? Like many other questions, we as a species are still deciding the answers today. The topic has become tied up in money and politics (on both sides, though one side far more than the other) which has resulted in it only becoming more complicated. I still think we each have to come to own opinions on these topics, hopefully after a careful review of the process with as little hyperbole as possible. For me personally it underscores that the material I'm working with was at one point a living thing's skin. That organism may not have died just so I could use its skin to make a bag or some coasters, but it's still true that I wouldn't have that material if not for it's death. So, and this may be just for me, it feels important that I should keep that in mind and try to utilize that material to the best of my ability. I should employ it as efficiently and expertly as possible, regardless of what it is I'm producing. The industry isn't going to change much based on any action I might take and there are a great many unsustainable practices I take advantage of on a daily basis. But that only makes it more important that I be aware of the What, the Where, the How, and the Why so I be responsible in my daily life. Our ancestors, especially when they lived closer to their sources of food, knew the value of sustainability, of not damaging the land. I believe it's all the more important to conserve that tradition and mentality in a time when a global economy and technology combine to keep our food sources out of sight and out of mind.
  17. I picked up one of these kits about a week or two ago but I haven't had the opportunity yet to sit down and give it a whack. It's nice to see they can come out shiny. =) Tandy's does also sell some Taklon brushes for not too much. There's probably better brushes in existence but so far those have been the best brushes I've found.
  18. I've never used a kevlar glove in leatherwork but I use one frequently when carving (wood, not leather). They will certainly prevent nicks, gouges, and lacerations but they'll do nothing to stop a puncture since they're fairly porous. I don't know if they come in pairs but the one I have just fits over the left hand on the assumption that the right hand will be holding a knife. You could always make a pair of them though just by buying one for the left hand and one for the right. They don't limit your dexterity as much as you might think, but they do get pretty warm. And since they're more of a kevlar mesh than a kevlar fabric any sweat or oils from your hand are probably going to get onto the surface of your leather with any amount of handling. I can certainly see the argument that a few errant fingerprints might be preferable to a few errant bloodstains though. If you want to try them out, I think I got mine from a chain called Woodcrafts for probably around $20.
  19. Howdy! You can't really throw a virtual rock on these forums without hitting at least seven Texans =) (which makes tossing virtual rocks sound like the bad idea it probably is...)
  20. Originally from Texas but I'm currently in Canada
  21. I spent ten years doing IT Support, including 6 in the Air Force. The titles and positioned ranged from Desktop Support to System Admin to Help Desk but the basic premise was always the same: fixing computers. Shortly after being laid off from my last position I moved to Canada to marry my wife and under the terms of my immigration I couldn't work until my application processed. In the interim I realized just how much I didn't want to continue in IT Support. While I enjoyed the task of the work (fixing computers) I really didn't appreciate everything else that came along with the job. Instead of expecting to get another position in the same field when my PR (Permanent Residency) processed, I decided to use the time in between (which turned out to be just about two years) to focus on my leathercrafting so I could take something that had been a hobby and turn it into something that made money. I got my PR at the end of May and registered my business two days later, but I'm still in the process of fully getting everything up to speed. I'm hoping I can officially open for business (on Etsy at least) in a few more weeks.
×
×
  • Create New...