Constabulary

If you are a DIY guy you can make one your self. I once made one for my Singer 45D91 but the Idea was stolen from LW member UWE. Just an idea. 😉

Well, de do not know the details of your machine cause we are not in front of it. So picture may help us to figure things. Have you pulled out the stitch length spindle? There is a pin on the inside oft the dial knob that pin goes into the coarse threading ion the top shaft. You have to push the spindle a bit when "screwing in" the spindle. Do you have a manual for the machine If not here is one. See pages 18, 19 for an x-ray view of the stitch length assembly. Hope this helps a bit. 107W1,W3,W5-inst.pdf

Hard to tell what what is wrong w/o having the machine in front of me. The D. 18 is a very special patcher I once restored one but never touched one again. Maybe this thread and the video I have linked may help

I think it would help if you could explain what your problem is and maybe post some pictures or link a YT Video.

328 needles are often named as 214x1 (for fabric) or 214x2 (for leather) - same needle just a different "name".

First of all what stitch length have you dialed? If Zero then you have no movement on the right rod and no feed dog movement. Is the stitch length "assembly" complete and is the spindle insert correctly? Please post some more pictures of your machine. Second - I have a 107w1 as well and too me it looks like the rod on the right, which is the rod for feed dog movement could be installed incorrectly. The screw should be to the rear (this is how it is on my machine) and not on the front side as we can see in the short video. Not sure what is going on on the underside of your machine but could be that something else is installed incorrectly (but this is guessing). I´ll post pictures of my 107w1 later.

Hans, the jump foot mechanism on a 45K89 is different compared with the one from the Adler 4 or 5. However at one time Singer had a similar one as Adler. With other words Singer had 2 different jump foot systems on the 45k line.

Post some pictures of your machine please. I had a flat bed version of the 45K with I think the same jump foot mechanism but that was some time ago.

Threading wire: https://www.ebay.de/itm/162385533414 Screws could be metric too - you never know. I´d re-tap a new and more common thread.

67 has a standard hook (smaller size) and the 167 has a larger hook but is smaller as on your former Juki 563. 267 is the newer version of the 167 - basically. 267 has a different casting. Not speaking about the sub-classes, just the basic machine.

I would guess your foot is for a plain strait stitcher. What number has it? Needle feed feet usually have a longer slit. You can extend the slit on yours with a file or dremel (or similar) or buy a needle feet foot. F.i. check the College Sewing UK Website, they have a section for needle feed feet but should get the feet elsewhere too: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-type/needle-feed-lockstitch-feet.html BTW your top top thread path is wrong, you have left out the hook.

sewing some straight seems on scrap leather with a thin needle and thin thread and producing a quality leather goods with maybe a size 22 needle and 138 thread are two different things. If a certain machine is capable to sew leather depends on the product you want to produce, the type and thickness of leather you want to use and the needle and thread size you want to use and o course the overall thickness you want to sew. Thin needles with thin thread will most likely punch through all kind of leather (guess why syringes have super thin needles) then double or triple the leather and and try again. Then try making a proper product. All sewing machines have their limitations.

There is 332 and 332LG / 332 LONG which is longer than 332. 332 is for the 30-1, 30-15 and so forth and the 332LG / 332 Long is for 30-7, 30-70 and so forth with a higher foot lift. Alternatively you can use 135x17 and 135x16 needles on your machine (I do this on my 29K71 which is using the same needles as the 30-15). The nomenclature 332 and the longer 332 Long can be confusing especially when the needle tip is left twist (LL)

Let me try to explain. You have to close the needle plate. Hold the thread in your have and pull it up slightly when the needle goes down and when the needle comes up again a bit again no longer pull the thread then a loop will be formed which then is caught by the hook. If this does not work then you needle-hook timing most likely needs adjustment or you have to practice. Watch the movement of the needle you will notice the needle goes down, then it comes up a little bit (maybe 2mm or so) and in this moment the thread loop is formed and the hook can catch the top thread loop...

They are no longer available - even in the land of Pfaffs and Adler 😉 IIRC in the German Sewing Machine forum we had a lady who managed to install new upper and lower gear + an "of the shelf" timing belt on a 153 or 189 but that's was a hell of a process IIRC. However there is a replacement kit but its not cheap and IMO not worth the money considering for what kind of machine it is for. https://www.ebay.de/itm/176815412544 If it was me I´d look for a Pfaff 262 or similar.

when the motor is behind the machine you may have problems tilting back the machine for service / oiling.

I have Singer pinking shears that I have used maybe twice sooooo I really do not need a device for that. But I know what you mean. 😁 I know it´s better to have than to need but... no... Fortunately it is 100km away from me. I have to reduce this sewing stuff + machines anyway. I´m about making one table for all my (4) arm machines. I´ll post pictures when I´m done. Tinkering... again. 😅

Thanks a lot. Now that I know I do not need it... I want it 😂 *kidding*

Found this randomly. What is this "Man-Sew" device on a Singer machine???? 🤔

just wondering for what purpose you need these information. 5.2cm is not the overall length of the needle, it is the length from end of the shank to the upper end of the needle eye. Just as side information the 328 is a bit special cause the shank diameter increases with the needle size.

that was probably me but I no longer have this machine.

well, thats just my opinion. Others may have a different views on that. 😉

IMO there not as many sewing machine factories in China as you find sewing machine brands online so IMO most of the so called clones come from the same factory. If you want your own brand name on machines you can order that if you buy enough of the "hardware". Maybe there are a few different factories but who really knows that. And IMO the machines are fairly equal the differences probably are in how they were set up. Some clones may have features that others do not have. In earlier times this was called sub class. In your picture you see that certain machines have installed different "devices" like machine mounted bobbin winders, direct drive motors of a knob for adjusting the foot lift height and so forth so have an eye on that. But IMO it is not possible to tell quality differences by just a brand name - there are just too many brand and there is not a "pool" of experiences when it comes to buying sewing machines directly from China in relation to brands - if you know what I mean. However - buying directly form the "manufacturer" can be a gamble as you never know if they come ready to sew and set up as you would expect it from a local dealer. But we have members here who bought directly and the machines arrived properly set up. But in the end the responsibility in on your side and claiming warranty issues may be not as easy as when you buy from a local dealer. If I was in need of a brand new sewing machine I would buy directly from China. Why? Mainly because you have dozens of videos online how to adjust these machines and I do not have the big $ and output that would justify buying from a dealer so yes, its a gamble but IMO the risk is not very high. Times have changed and IMO the quality of the Chinese products have increased and the Chinese have learned customer service and the latest feedbacks here are not bad. But again it´s a gamble. However. I´m a big friend of used / vintage equipment and I do not see that I`m in need buying something new. So it depends on your situation (time / money) and if you are willing / able to tinker a bit here and there. For my purposes I can deal with used / vintage equipment very well.

IIRC they have once sold this video on VHS - not sure though. If they put it up for sale on CD-R I´m sure a lot of folks would like to buy it.