Constabulary

Here it is. The Seiko SLH is a clone (more or less) of the Singer 7 and the manual includes the needle hook timing so its good to have. Singer 7 CLASS Manual.pdf Singer 7 Seiko SLH-2B Instructions Manual.pdf

aaaah I´m toooo much "singerized" I guess... 🤪 its a bit different on the 243 as it seem but you can move the feed dog holder sideways.... but its a bit more difficult as it seems. Looks like you have to loosen the 2 screws #25 but an actual picture of the underside of your machine may give us a better idea....

You can move the feed dog holder a bit sideways.The feed dog holder is attached to the feeding rod with 2 pointed screws (one on either side). When I look at this picture I think the feed dog seems to be misaligned. What I would do first is loosen the 2 feed dog screws and try to align the feed dog. Then I would try to move the feed dog holder to the left. It should be the same as on Singer or 45K or Adler 104 flat bed machines. I´ll take pictures tomorrow...

I´m aware of that, I have several, incl a 212 Singer (2 needle version of 211) which is basically the mother of your 255. Mine also has a reservoir under the top lid. But sometimes clone machines come with upgrades. So if you need just a drip pan with no oil reservoir you have to look for one with enough depth. I´d still contact a Consew dealer and order one. Maybe these folks in Seattle: https://www.chholderby.com/

is there an oil pump on the underside or are there hanging wicks into the pan that suck up oil (I don´t think so)? So if not it is a manual oiling machine (basically). I think the hooks run in an oil bath but is is a closed system. I think you can use random oil drip pans. But maybe you can post pictures from the underside of the machine.

I have shipped a patcher from Germany to the US in a custom build crate but that was just the head w/o stand and it is A LOT OF work cause you have to do a lot of internal bracing so that the machine cannot move round in the crate. BTW shipping the DIY wooden stand makes no sense. Not worth it IMO. Other that that look for a double or triple wall cardboard box large enough for the machine + 2" - 3" space to all sides of the machine and fill the space with cut so size Styrofoam boards and bits. Do not use bubble foil or Styrofoam chips. The machine needs to sit very tight in the box. To save on the box size (shipping size) I´d remove the arm lever (just two pins that go out from rear to front) the hand wheel, front wheel hub and wax pot. Maybe the from tension and lock screw too (better safe than sorry). I have shipped machines with UPS to the other side of the pond and they all arrived intact but I have some experience in shipping & packing up heavy things.

I think it uses just a "plain" drip pan and a a drip can with oil reservoir, right? I guess the one for the Singer 211 should work but I´d check with a consew dealer they may have one or can order the correct one. See pictures here: https://consew.com/products/consew-model-255rb-3 Or check the parts list and google the parts number and machine model

does not sound like a 7-34 - just from what I have in mind it sounds a bit like Singer 7-10 (or similar) thread regulator spring - but I´m just guessing... We need pictures I´d say. 😉 Barrel hooks always appear a bit sloppy cause the thread needs to slide around it.

if it was me I´d go with the 67-GA-373. Have an eye on the timing belt. The old brown ones tend to crack and fall apart with the time. If yours is bad check this tread:

if it is a CLEAS (please post pictures) then there were at least 3 different sizes off bobbins / hooks. This is a pic from a later model but IIRC the hooks remained the same event until today but I have to admit I have not much experiences with the colibris. CLAES RPX, Modell 200 and newer models I know more of.

I´m collecting Vietnam War items for many decades. If it was me I would not wear them. first of all when it is a common wearable size (f.i. 9R, 10R and so forth) I think the collectors value is higher than the value of wearing them. If you don´t care (your choice) keep in mind that the rubber sole is 55 years old ant it may crack sooner or later when wearing. If it was me I´d sell them to a collector (maybe on Ebay) and buy a new pair of jungle boots.

I guess you mean the stitch length dial knob. I think I have a metal one here, I´ll check that later.... Or do you mean the Zig Zag knob?

how about a screw extractor. not sure if it works but IMO it one of the last options you probably have. There are other model video show just a random one.

if it is not necessary to remove the shaft better leave it where it is. such actions sometime cause more damage on parts that most likely are no longer available. My 2 cents.

post some pictures. I once bought front shaft for my 29K71 restoration from College sewing in the UK and I remember the gear was very tight on the shaft but it worked. But I had the OEM gear.

Please post a good clear picture from front and and back of your machine .

there either is a big thumb screw OR a slotted screw (flush with the lid or a bit deeper) in about the same spot for adjusting the foot pressure. But if you dial in a too low foot pressure the friction between needle and leather may lift your sewing material when the needle bar is rising.

It basically is a modern version of the Singer 45K Parts list an manual can be downloaded here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/104255-neels-saddlery-tension-issue/#findComment-696717

Have you taken apart the press? Maybe the solution is simpler than you think. As I said before I once replaced tool holders with a round long nut. Its a quite simple part. Worth checking I´d say. What is the outer diameter of the tool holder? A.) is a guide screw for the tool holder, the tool holder either has a slot of a flat site where it slides along the screw. B.) is a lock screw for the big brass spindle guide C.) is a spindle guide - all spindle guides I have seen are right threaded so it should go out left. But C could be very tight. EDIT: quote from the text on this website: Presswerkzeuge - GETMORE-SHOP Tools for presses with M6 thread - like many machines from Astor, Stocko, Daudé - can be found under "Tools M6" Have you checked if you can screw in a plain M6 screw?

You are welcome! This sometimes happens when you strip the 29K´s. You are not the first and for sure not the last with this problem. 😉 Have fun with your patcher.

I agree with dikmann - we have a topic her about Singer SV machines:

I meant the shuttle driving lever 😉 but I guess you know what I mean.

quoting my self 😉 When I look at the 1st video I notice that when the roller of the rack driving lever and the inner cam track are to the furthest left you can see the "bulge" of the cam track of the cam pulley - know what I mean? in contrast to that - when I look at my 29K71 cams (almost the same as yours) it seems to me that your cam pulley has been installed incorrectly - rotated by 180° as it seems. When I can see the bulge in the pulley cam my roller is furthest to the right. This is when the roller is furthest to the left: Do you see what I mean?

Have you read the manual? There is an eccentric for adjusting the needle hook timing. Just checking - have you taken off the pulley cam on the right end of the machine that governs the up and down movement of the arm lever which is attached to the needle bar?

BTW - what I figured today is that the A51 ex factory is a "button covering machine". Not sure what you want to do with it but the Co. still exist and maybe worth checking with them: https://www.astor-berning.de/fashion/fashion-maschinen/187/a-51-knopf-ueberziehmaschine