Constabulary

IMO there not as many sewing machine factories in China as you find sewing machine brands online so IMO most of the so called clones come from the same factory. If you want your own brand name on machines you can order that if you buy enough of the "hardware". Maybe there are a few different factories but who really knows that. And IMO the machines are fairly equal the differences probably are in how they were set up. Some clones may have features that others do not have. In earlier times this was called sub class. In your picture you see that certain machines have installed different "devices" like machine mounted bobbin winders, direct drive motors of a knob for adjusting the foot lift height and so forth so have an eye on that. But IMO it is not possible to tell quality differences by just a brand name - there are just too many brand and there is not a "pool" of experiences when it comes to buying sewing machines directly from China in relation to brands - if you know what I mean. However - buying directly form the "manufacturer" can be a gamble as you never know if they come ready to sew and set up as you would expect it from a local dealer. But we have members here who bought directly and the machines arrived properly set up. But in the end the responsibility in on your side and claiming warranty issues may be not as easy as when you buy from a local dealer. If I was in need of a brand new sewing machine I would buy directly from China. Why? Mainly because you have dozens of videos online how to adjust these machines and I do not have the big $ and output that would justify buying from a dealer so yes, its a gamble but IMO the risk is not very high. Times have changed and IMO the quality of the Chinese products have increased and the Chinese have learned customer service and the latest feedbacks here are not bad. But again it´s a gamble. However. I´m a big friend of used / vintage equipment and I do not see that I`m in need buying something new. So it depends on your situation (time / money) and if you are willing / able to tinker a bit here and there. For my purposes I can deal with used / vintage equipment very well.

IIRC they have once sold this video on VHS - not sure though. If they put it up for sale on CD-R I´m sure a lot of folks would like to buy it.

Dürkopp 291 parts are harder to find and accessories and parts are expensive it however is the newer machine model with a larger capacity hook. The advantage of the 226 is that is shares parts / accessories with the Singer 111w which are easy to find and cheap. Here is a source for 291 parts: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/durkopp-adler-industrial-sewing-machine-parts/durkopp-adler-291-292-spare-parts.html Enjoy the prices ** kidding **

Basically the 111d is German made prior 1945 and the 111w is US made. They share the same parts. So 111d or 111w does not matter what matters is the needle bar diameter. The 51w28 seems to be the same 1st model 51w as mine so you basically need a needle bar from a Singer 211 needle feed machine or 111w151 which also is a needle feed machine. Check this thread for more details:

My life has changed (partially to negative, partially to positive) and I have to sell several vintage sewing machines (heads only) that have "piled up" over the recent years. I just have toooo many and especially too many I'm not actively using. All will be in sewing condition (depending on what you want to sew) but may need some adjustments, cleaning, or refurbishing. When ever possible I´ll make a quick video showing how it works / is sewing. I can ship overseas and I do proper packaging (I can give references. I have sold to several long time LW members before). Listing the machines will take some time. I have no triple feed /walking foot machines for sale. Most are patchers (CLAES, Singer, Adler...). Quick list of models (may not be complete): Patchers: CLAES 8346-30 CLAES 200-3 Adler 30-15 Adler 30-7 Singer 29K71 maybe a Dürkopp 17 w. medium hook (actually size of a large CLAES hook) Other machines: Singer 45D90 (with reverse) - same as 45K90 but German made prior 1945, parts are the same. Pfaff 138 (black) Dürkopp 207-5 with roller foot (similar to Singer 96K) Anker M with roller foot Pfaff 230 (early black with wider timing belt and NO plastic gears) Anker RZ List is not complete yet. I may have some interesting accessories as well (branded thread stands and so forth). ATM it is just too much to list. If interested send me a PM and I´ll figure shipping costs and I´ll give you a price for the machine INCLUDING insured shipping. Not included will be import import taxes, VAT.... you name it and all that depends on your destination - so that is all up to the buyer and not my part. I know I have to list prices and pictures but I work long time (incl Saturdays) and I may answer slowly so please be patient with me. So when ever I get a request I´ll post the pictures here and add a price. Bear with me - life is hard at the moment. I hope that works for you folks & the moderators. 😉

suggestion: unpin these threads: What Exactly Is An "eps" (Electronic Positioning System)? Adler 467 For Venator Delete / relocate these threads as they are IMO no longer needed: New forum for 3D printers, engravers and laser cutters New Members, please read this before posting. Please list your location and country in your profiles the member location should be mandatory when signing up and the problem is solved (IMO) or increase the number of new post on page 1 of the sub forum

check the parts list and try to figure what parts are needed but I honestly doubt you can do that and even if it was possible the parts will be crazy expensive.

however - IF it is EW 053383 then it is 1966 and Class 153K is correct as well

The Singer serial number records are not complete I dont think anyone has a complete list. For some double digit prefix serial numbers records do not exist anymore (as it seems) EX prefix is around late 1965 so your machine for sure is a later date I think early to mid 1970´s onward and it is UK made.

since the forum has been updated there seem to be fewer new posts / threads on page 1 in the "sub forum". Page 1 only shows one (1) new thread all others are on page 2. And if you ask me I'd say at least 1/2 of the pinned threads can either be delete (3D printer f.i.) or are no longer needed to be pinned (to make room for the new posts). Just my 2 cents. 😉

I at least can see that here is a thread guide missing. Have you cheeked the needle hook timing especially the needle bar height?

I have edited the pic a bit... ah... well... I´m not sure but is your bottom thread going trough the needle eye??? That would surprise me... But could just be the angle 🤔

okay looks fine to me. Can you post pictures of the machine maybe we can see what is wrong. I cannot see the video. Upload it to YT and post a link here that always works best.

is the tension screw on the hook tension spring all the way in already (it should not)? Maybe the small tab that goes into the hook body on the lower end of the tension spring is broken off (Pic 1). The shown Adler hook is the same as the Singer and I´m using it in my Singer 45D.

I cannot imagine the foot lift lever is worn so far down. Post pictures and / or a video (upload to YT and post a link here) please. Maybe you have wrong tension discs installed which put the "release cup" to high. I had this with an Adler 30. The added washer may be the problem as well. There should just be a thin felt or leather washer under the tension discs of approx 1mm-1.5mm thickness. worn gears and racks are a problem with these century old machines. You cannot adjust the hook timing as they have no timing eccentric like the later 29K models.

not sure how the casting on the later class 17 is shaped but the old 17 shares the face plate with the Singer 16 which sometimes can be found cheap.

since it is a (more) modern clone of the singer 111G / 111w I´d assume it is mentioned in the manual. I´ll check my records. EDIT: Not sure if the 563 is entirely the same but this extract is from a Singer 111 manual - hope it helps

what needle and thread size are you using? Some pictures or a video may help to figure the issue. EDITED

indeed looks like a beefier version of the BUSMC A1. I owned an A1 several years ago:

are forward and reverse stitch length equal or is the reverse longer - probably.

afaik its the same as on other 29Ks too EDIT: Parts list > Parts number > check google Parts list: https://archive.org/download/manualsbase-id-577992/577992.pdf Parts number: 544383 For instance: https://marfar.com.au/products/screw-needle-clamp_-or-545318-544383-or-happo-46642

the reason likely is that clutch motors are way outdated nowadays. On my side of the pond you sometimes find 750w Servo motors for about 70€ (not kidding) but that of course is super cheap. Anyway you find proper servo motors for 120 - 150 € or $ so for me I see no reason not to replace a clutch motor that needs service or maybe bearings with a energy saving servo motor. But that's just me. If you want to invest work time and maybe money into an old clutch motor go a head. I would not do that. Just my 2 cents.

its a 31-15 not 30-15 and is a tailoring machine not a harness machine (except for Barbie & Ken horse harness - maybe **kidding**) and what is the number? looks like the check spring in the tension unit is not original and the tension unit seems to be set up incorrectly. I´d get a new spring or complete tension unit. And you better download a manual. Neither 134LR nor 135-34 is the needle for the 31-15 except someone set it up for one of the two. But you have to figure that, hard to tell from the distance. The original needle was / is the needle DBx1 / 16x257 Maybe this helps: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/74484-what-needle-size-do-i-need-for-my-singer-31-15/ https://www.google.com/search?q=needle+singer+31-15+site:leatherworker.net&client=firefox-b-d&sca_esv=1cdd3e2116a3bced&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi1ndrztsiLAxUF-gIHHUjaKFIQrQIoBHoECBUQBQ&biw=1600&bih=719&dpr=1

The the friction between leather and the rising needle lifts the presser foot. I´d increase the foot pressure first. If it does not help look for a heavier spring for the foot bar.

The Seiko TE-6 head section is pretty much the same as on my former Singer 34K5 (Singer 16 type so to say) which I have restore and later it had an accident and I had to replace the needle bar. I have used a Singer 17 needle bar which is the same as the Seiko and it worked. I used 135x17 needles though the shank is thicker as on Singer 16 needles - it just worked with the new needle bar back then. Just my experience but I no longer have this machine I have replaced it with the Singer 51w. I would simply try a different needle and adjust the needle bar height. Just hand crank it and see what it does. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/#findComment-434368