Constabulary

are you sure it is the gear and not a jammed thread in the hook / bobbin case area?

ISMACS has a comparative table for old / new sizes of sewing machine needles: https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-needle-sizes-1950.html Hope it helps

Aaron Martin in Canada has 331 needles: https://shop.aaronmartin.com/331LR-200-Schmetz-Needle/item/331LR-200

So cool! Reminds me of my former DVSG / BUSMC #6 HM. I sold it a while ago but found a good new home in Great Britain but I´m still looking at the pictures sometimes . I unfortunately had not enough work for it and it took too much space. I oiled mine with 10w40 motor oil. My #6HM took System 331 needles but I´m not sure what the Landis needs. Good luck with this lovely chunk of cast iron!

Have you checked the manual for that? Looks like there is one included. Bob was a bit faster...

I would go with the 750W motors. Having more power cannot be wrong.

Other than that maybe this thread will help.

How significant is the stitch length difference? Have you compared your stitch length adjuster with the parts list to see if all components are present? I do not know the 269 so I´m just asking - is "bulge" on part #0268 160040 symmetrical? If not try to install it rotated by 180°. It sometimes happens on certain Pfaff machines that this part is installed the wrong way so it affects the stitch length so its probably a similar problem here.

read the manual for your machine there should be a section for how to increase the height of lift for the lifting and vibrating presser foot

just yesterday I looked at the spindle on my Singer 108w and it looked like the pin is replaceable. I cross checked another 153w pats list and pound the pin as spare. Parts # is 202443 And I found it online: https://parts.jacksew.com/pin-generic-202443/

depends on if your local 153 is a walking foot / triple feed machine or a needle feed machine. If it is a walking foot / triple feed then it is not possible but if it is a needle feed machine then there is a workaround then it would work but again its a workaround:

I have no idea where to get Mitsubishi parts in general but the DU 107 seems to be very similar to the Singer 211 and I would guess that the Singer 211 take up lever could fit depending on the hook / bobbin size. Is the DU-107 a small or large hook machine? I also found a note regarding Mitsubishi on the MJ Foley website. Maybe MJ Foley is a source for your parts. https://mjfoleyco.com/sewing/mitsubishi/ all just guessing...

have you taken out the bobbin case to see if old thread has compiled and blocks it? could also be that the bobbin case opener and tab on bobbin case block each other. Please post pictures for the hook era.

would agree to tripped clutch but you see the ball in the small window so just from the picture I´d say it is engaged.

BTW - the timing belt appears to be in bad shape form what I see it should be replaced. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/58040-adler-167-timing-belt-replacement/ Looks like the safety clutch is engaged but maybe it disengaged for some reason anyway this is how to engage it again: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/107021-adler-167-gk373-problems/?do=findComment&comment=710134

I guess you mistyped 226. From what I see it looks like a Seiko CW-8 or Consew 227R or similar. The timing belts are readily available on Ebay or from most industrial sewing machine dealers. The Seiko # is 10621 . IIRC they are the same as for the Singer 111w156 (#224195). I do not know if you have a manual that explains the replacement of the timing belt but the Consew 227R manual does but seems there is no timing mark on your machine. Anyway, here is the manual, hope it helps. Consew_227,_223_Manual.pdf

Please let us know if and how your problem got solved. Always good to have a feedback just in case someone else will have a similar problem.

The broken pin is the problem as it seems. I´m not sure if you can replace the pin, the knob may be hardened. And I do not know if the spindles are still available. I have one but I´m in Germany and it is from a Singer 111 machine not sure if the stitch numbers are the same. Anyway, I would check with Bob Kovar from Toledo Sewing Machines. He replied in this thread as CowboyBob (see above). He may have some old stock parts. If he has none we maybe can talk.

Very interesting! I´m wondering if this kit is still available and how many hundred € it will cost.

I once made this key fob with a Singer badge (stole the idea from someone else) and some aged leather. When you use a coin I would solder 4-6 small loops to the rim or metal tabs to the rear side of the coin so it cannot fall out. Know what I mean?

Yes that is the spindle. But don´t mess the tip with a Dremel. What you see on the tip are traces of part # 13066 that pushes against the tip when changing the stitch length. Not sure if you got me right. There is a short coarse thread on the end of the top shaft (red circle) and there is a small pin inside the knob of the spindle (red arrow). And this little pin has to follow the thread when you turn the knob for changing the stitch length.

The pictures are from the Texi website. I just googled the needle system and checked "Pictures" on Google. You will find similar pictures from DOTEC or Groz Beckert and other manufacturers as well. 0,8mm sounds not much but can make a huge difference when the needle bar height is not set correctly. When not properly set it may cause skipped stitches meaning the hook tip does not catch the top thread loop. 135x17 and 135x16 are the same needle in in their dimensions but have a different needle tip. 135x17 is for fabric / woven materials and 135x16 is for leather. R + LR are shapes of the needle tip (note "Points" in the above pictures) . R = round tip (point) which mainly is for woven materials LR is a leather tip (point) L= leather R= Right twist. There are many other "Points" depending on what materials you want to sew and what seam appearance you wan to achieve. Needle systems, sizes and needle points can be very confusing when you are new to the sewing game. Check this to figure what cutting points for leather are available and how different the seam appearance can be. https://www.schmetz.com/en/industrial-needles/needle-compass/cutting-points/

I think the screw you show in your picture is the screw CC which comes in contact with the spindle. What is missing is screw CC. This is from a Singer 153 parts list. So your screw with the long unthreaded end is CC / # 13069 and what is missing is screw BB / # 10764 which locks the screw CC. Make sure the parts 13066, 13067 13068 are present as well and noting in the mechanism is gummed and everything is well oiled. EDIT: Also check the threaded end of the top shaft (where the spindle goes in) if it is undamaged and the small pin on the inside of the spindle knob is present and is following this thread when you change the the stitch length.

I have this extract from a 153w manual maybe it helps

the 135x16 / 135x17 is slightly longer than 134-35. Depending on how the machine is adjusted it is possible that both needle systems work w/o changing the needle bar height. But I´d recommend the 135x16 / 135x17 needle. Check the manual for the needle bar height and needle Hook timing and set is up as recommend for 135x17 / 135x16 - thats what I would do. The difference is 0.8mm - see pictures.