Constabulary

Does this help:

There is a Facebook group for 107w embroidery machines maybe they know more. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1981127628794141/?_rdr

machine has no reverse. Turn around the material and sew over the last 2-3 stitches.

The machine is designed to make 1/2" throw - not 14mm. If you want to push it further than 1/2" you probably (I guess) have to replace internal parts that govern the needle bar - IF such parts are available at all. Don´t know if there was an embroidery or ZZ machine in this class with a 14mm throw. If it is not a parts problem you may look at the needle hook timing. Maybe this thread here helps: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79721-timing-a-zig-zag-machine/ I have acquired a 107w102 recently but havent yet touched or tested it.

its there see 2nd picture. Really - If I was in the UK I`d buy it in a heartbeat! Don´t let it go for that price!

same as for the Juki 563 and so forth https://www.ebay.de/itm/222535571262 as it seems

looks like a 45K89 with jump foot and reverse (not sure reg. subclass though). The other one is not an Adler 205 it is a Chinese made machine similar to The cowboy CB 3500. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3500.html I´m a vintage machine guy and love the 45Ks but the other one for sure is the better deal it has triple feed a larger hook and is the more modern machine (obviously). The price is a steal and I would not wait too long to buy it for that price. Rear foot is missing buy maybe its there but that IMO would not rule out buying it SOON! EDIT: Singer seems to be 45k89 as assumed - here is another one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355920387730?

before you buy many different 328 needles I´d test one set first to see how thick you really can sew with the 328 needle and see if the needle holder does not hit the presser foot at max. material thickness.

where to start.... First of all what do you know about the 45K machine? Is it cylinder arm or flat bed? Jump foot for fixed foot? Has it reverse? Do you know what subclass it is? What does the seller know? Has he used it or is it a barn find in unknown condition? Can you test sew it? If yes buy needles & thread you want to use with the machine. Download read and print the manual (if possible) and take it with you (or PDF file on your phone) when test sewing the machine. The Adler most likely is a 205 and not 250. Same questions as above... (205 is a cylinder machine though) We don´t know the two offers so let us know what you know. Do you have pictures or a link to the offers? So we can try to figure if parts are missing or if anything is broke... What do you want to sew with it? What material and material thickness (all layers together)?

remove the slotted axial end screw from the top shaft first. The hand wheel is attached to the shaft with 2 set screws. Remove them and if the hand wheel is not gummed with old oil (happens) you should be able to pull it off the shaft. If it does not move use a rubber hammer or piece of wood + hammer or a gear puller. If you don´t dare leave it where it is and use a speed reducer instead.

The specialty on the system 328 needles is that depending on their size they come with different shaft diameter. IIRC the 794 has 2.5mm no matter the needle size.

Are you probably pushing the leather materials and the needle hits the needle plate? Have you tried sewing something else w/o braking needles? Have you checked the needle hook timing? Maybe the hook tip is hitting the needle and is breaking it.

AFAIK this type of top shaft and this type of hand wheel are no longer available new. You may find them used - somewhere - somewhen. I´d probably check on Ebay or with an "old school dealer" they sometimes have machines that they strip for parts. Dot know how much you have paid for the machine but the parts may cost more than you paid for the machine.

reg. skipped stitches - is the needle insert correctly with needle scarf toward hook tip? Maybe needle bar set a bit to high (check needle hook timing)? Hook tip probably a bit to far away from the needle? If you are looking for timing values or an English manual look for the Singer 31-18, the machine is very similar and has wheel feed too. Not sure how similar the wheel feed mechanistic is but that's the best crossover reference I think. Needle hook timing values are the same. EDIT: I have this manual: Singer 31-17,-18,-21 Instruction Manual.pdf

Just found this offer coincidentally on AliExpress and there seem to be some interesting needle / throat plates that I have never seen before: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000301291692.html

545 is the class the rest of the digits is a description of a sub class

you own them both so you decide which one suits your needs best. But if it was me I´d keep the LS-2 . Why? Cause it is a triple feed machine with reverse.

Not a super common machine here I´d say. Maybe there were used different motors at time so I would check with the manufacturer for that. or check this YT video

Basically ALL sewing machines can sew leather it just depends on the leather. As you assumed, it could have been an edge binding machine for heavy materials. Large hand wheels were also used for slowing down the sewing speed. You have to raise the needle bar if you want to use a longer needle regarding tension - most likely your bobbin thread tension is way to high (see manual for that) or you have a way too soft upper tension spring (you may need a heavier beehive spring then) or you have a permanent upper tension release for what ever reason. F.I. knee rests against knee lift lever or if you have a foot lift pedal your foot rests on the pedal.... To figure out what the numbers on the plate mean see this thread - it may help: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/89283-an-introduction-to-the-pfaff-numbering-system/ Other than than check the 545 parts list there should be explanations of numbers as well. But keep in mind the plate only tells you how the machine was set up when it left the factory but not what change were done by owners or dealers afterwards (like setting is up for shorter needle).

Have googled for it or checked the manufactures website? It took me seconds to find it.

Chrages looks like ripped out of the context (kind of) cause we don't know from where you quoted this but I´d assume charge in terms of paint could means the amount of certain ingredients (filling quantity). I honestly think that creating an own paint from the scratch w/o having a background in chemistry or paint in general does not make much sense. it´s more than just mixing some ingredients I´d rather try to mix my own shade from existing colors from a well known manufacturer.

Basically depends on the hat style / design and if it requires some stiffens of the material. You may add some sort of stiffer on lets say a slouch hat or boonie hat. Know what I mean?

BTW - I cut some threads for attaching some edge guides and I also have an oil hole in it.

Different machine but basically the same thing. Some years ago I made a flat bed attachment for my Singer 45D91 from a IKEA bamboo cutting board. Super low cost (less than 20€ / $22) very sturdy and it has IMO it has a nice look. To be fair the cutting board idea back then came from LW member UWE. He made them way more professional than I but I was able to make it with the tools I have. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72789-singer-45d91-restoration/?tab=comments#comment-552472 https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/aptitlig-cutting-board-bamboo-80233430/ This is what UWE did https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65589-flatbed-table-attachment-for-pfaff-335/ I also made one from screen printing plate for my Singer 108w20 but to be honest I have never used it. That one was cheap also...

maybe loose set screw on the wheel?