Constabulary

@Bugg how can we know if you messed up? We don´t know the condition of your machine and we don´t know what you want to sew with this machine. Please post pictures and let us know what you want to sew and how thick the material will be (all layers together).

right, it is counter productive but you never know what is going on the other end so patience sometimes is a good advise. Life is more that just having something for sale now and then. Good luck with the machine.

it is not supposed to go all the way around when you have pushed the plunger for adjusting the stitch length - you have a stop at the longest stitch @ 5SPI and then at the shortest stitch @ 32 SPI (32 SPI is a guess). It only goes all the way around when the plunger is not pushed in.

Thats for sure is not normal. Imagine the hook falls out when sewing with full speed. Are you sure your shuttle race is complete? I´d check the parts list or compare with online offers. Singer 31 shuttle race and hooks are fairly cheap. I´d probably buy them new.

I never needed any weights for adjusting tension and afaik there are no "official" weights specs cause tension depends on material / needle / thread thickness and how tight you want the stitch. So it basically it is playing with the top and bottom tension until you have achieved what you need. I know there are "science folks" who need numbers for everything but I actually never needed that - no matter what machine I used..

I have not touched or seen a 341 clone yet but aren´t there additional accessories available? I mean there are several "341 clones" out there but no other feed dogs available? I cannot imagine that. EDIT: How is this one - is the hole smaller? https://www.szwalnia.pl/gb/50wf3-086-feed-dog-for-tw3-341 EDIT II: what about singer 153 / Consew 227 / Seiko CW-8B feed dogs? Are they different or could they fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/162119694765 https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/13020-feed-seiko-cw-8b-generic.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/13020s-feed-seiko-cw-8b-genuine.html

The Singer 45K89 is a cylinder arm machine not a fat bed machine and it has a jump foot so you cannot install the roller foot w/o modifying the machine and NO the foot you have shown does not fit. The 45K roller feet are much larger and the foot bar is way thicker than the one on a Singer 17. EDIT: We talked about it last month already https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/120449-help-needed-_-cant-find-roller-foot-for-45k89/

well from the outside it looks a bit beaten but that probably because of poor storage conditions but I do not know the condition of the timing belt and so forth. Are you sure this machine will suit your needs? This is not really a holster machine. As I said before it was designed for the shoe trade for sewing shoe upper / vamping and so forth. How thick (overall thickness) do you want sew and with what thread thickness / needle size? As mentioned before ex factory it is using a needle system with fairly thin shafts and you can probably get it to sew with 138 thread if the needle plate has a large enough hole but you most likely you have to convert the needle bar for using a common needle system like 135x16 and you need a new tension unit. So expect to invest approx $50 or more in it for parts + some tinkering. Maybe new needle plate and feed dog and I´m not sure if the roller foot is ideal for your work. But you can convert that as well.... But it all takes parts, time and tinkering.

poor picture but this is the later 2n type.Could be a 51w44. Looks like on the thread tension unit some parts are missing or it is broke but they are still available (see picture below) https://www.ebay.com/itm/401111434437 Here is a manual for the machine. Manual Singer 51W44.pdf

The 51w are post bed machines for the shoe trade and similar. They have drop feed and are using an rather "odd" needle system with thin shaft. But you can covert the needle bar so they can accommodate needles with 2mm shaft. There are also 2 types of 51w and early model and a later model. Do you know more than just "51"? Maybe the subclass or do you have pictures?

well, it depends - the OEM Singer medium-coarse needle plate is for needles up to #23 (22-23 is stamped on the OEM Singer 82234 needle plate). As Wiz said, the tiny spools do not hold much of the thick thread. I´m using mine for #22 needles with 138 thread but to any thicker. Keep in mind this is a repair machine and not really a machine for producing leather goods.

But this is a CB3200 and the one on Ebay that you linked in the other thread seems to be a CB3500 or similar so it is the little bit heavier type if I see this right. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355819813297 I do not know the full details on these machines but as I said I would not worry too much. Just my 2 cents

screws from other singer machines may fit as well. I´d check for Singer 16 or 31k screws but would compare the parts lists first.

can´t believe that no one bought it yet. If someone wonders who DCR is (I wanted to figure this) https://www.dcrindustrialsewingmachinery.co.uk/item/dcr-205sca-short-cylinder-arm-industrial-sewing-machine

Please post a link to that statement. As you know nowadays a lot of unreflected BS is posted here and there in the WWW so knowing the source may help to figure things. On the other hand, with less than 2hrs a day I would not worry too much. Have you ever read anywhere from serious quality problems with these machines - beside user errors or not properly adjusted machines (well that both happens)? I have not. You even considered buying a vintage decades old Singer 45k with unknown millage (they could be worn out too) so I honestly would not worry to much about the newer Chinese made machines. But in the end you decide.

Does this help:

There is a Facebook group for 107w embroidery machines maybe they know more. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1981127628794141/?_rdr

machine has no reverse. Turn around the material and sew over the last 2-3 stitches.

The machine is designed to make 1/2" throw - not 14mm. If you want to push it further than 1/2" you probably (I guess) have to replace internal parts that govern the needle bar - IF such parts are available at all. Don´t know if there was an embroidery or ZZ machine in this class with a 14mm throw. If it is not a parts problem you may look at the needle hook timing. Maybe this thread here helps: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79721-timing-a-zig-zag-machine/ I have acquired a 107w102 recently but havent yet touched or tested it.

its there see 2nd picture. Really - If I was in the UK I`d buy it in a heartbeat! Don´t let it go for that price!

same as for the Juki 563 and so forth https://www.ebay.de/itm/222535571262 as it seems

looks like a 45K89 with jump foot and reverse (not sure reg. subclass though). The other one is not an Adler 205 it is a Chinese made machine similar to The cowboy CB 3500. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3500.html I´m a vintage machine guy and love the 45Ks but the other one for sure is the better deal it has triple feed a larger hook and is the more modern machine (obviously). The price is a steal and I would not wait too long to buy it for that price. Rear foot is missing buy maybe its there but that IMO would not rule out buying it SOON! EDIT: Singer seems to be 45k89 as assumed - here is another one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355920387730?

before you buy many different 328 needles I´d test one set first to see how thick you really can sew with the 328 needle and see if the needle holder does not hit the presser foot at max. material thickness.

where to start.... First of all what do you know about the 45K machine? Is it cylinder arm or flat bed? Jump foot for fixed foot? Has it reverse? Do you know what subclass it is? What does the seller know? Has he used it or is it a barn find in unknown condition? Can you test sew it? If yes buy needles & thread you want to use with the machine. Download read and print the manual (if possible) and take it with you (or PDF file on your phone) when test sewing the machine. The Adler most likely is a 205 and not 250. Same questions as above... (205 is a cylinder machine though) We don´t know the two offers so let us know what you know. Do you have pictures or a link to the offers? So we can try to figure if parts are missing or if anything is broke... What do you want to sew with it? What material and material thickness (all layers together)?

remove the slotted axial end screw from the top shaft first. The hand wheel is attached to the shaft with 2 set screws. Remove them and if the hand wheel is not gummed with old oil (happens) you should be able to pull it off the shaft. If it does not move use a rubber hammer or piece of wood + hammer or a gear puller. If you don´t dare leave it where it is and use a speed reducer instead.