Constabulary

I would NOT buy a direct drive motor for this type of machine. You are loosing the punching power of the large and heavy hand wheel (your machine has a larger one than most of the "standard" machines). I would add a speed reducer & brushless servo motor just as DieselTech said.

Its hard to evaluate parts from just pictures. I have restored several patcher machines (29K´s, Adler 30 and some less common models) but actually never ran into problems like yours. But what I can tell is that old and new gear box parts often do not play well together. I got my 29K71 parts from College Sewing in the UK but that was before BREXIT. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/singer-sewing-machine-parts/singer-29k-71-parts.html I had a new TOWA shuttle driver that was super tight in the shuttle driving gear but it worked. This was my project approx 10 years ago: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56079-singer-29k71-restoration/ If you ask me I would probably buy all gear box parts (incl the long rack) new from one source but I cannot guarantee that it will work then. Patcher can be pleasure and pain. Such projects sometimes turn into money pits that unfortunately is parts of the "Vintage Machine Restoration Game". From todays perspective it was too expensive to restore my 29K71. I found better 29K71´s for less money (compared with all cost of restoration) BUT I still have the one I restored. But when ever I found OEM Singer parts I replaced them so meanwhile most major parts are OEM again. The springs for the needle bar never seem to fit, the one I got from College sewing was made of soft tin - useless! Same problem with the ball tip spring in the shuttle driver. That was 10 yrs ago - maybe the have improved parts now. But even the OEM Adler 30 needle bar springs (same as for 29K´s) needed to be reworked. Quite a while ago I bought a heap of old sewing machine parts incl. lot of patcher parts (new old stock & used), that included several of these needle bar springs too, none of the fitted w/o reworking them but they were of a way better quality. Sorry but I have no gear box parts just in case you want to ask .

make a new post then and you can load additional pictures in it. Or try the edit button an try to load more pictures then. You may get more attention when you post your restoration pics in the sewing machine section: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/

post a link to that video if you don´t mind

Glad you solved it!

if the reverse stitch is longer than forward then this manual may be helpful see page 12 "ADJUSTMENT OF THE REVERSE FEEDING MECHANISM ON THE 211G156 MACHINE" Just a guess. Hope it helps. Singer_211G155,_211G156_Service_Manual.pdf

how is your max reverse stitch length? Is it longer than 6 SPI?

since this is a high speed sewing machine I´d guess it is a puller device.

if a motor is too fast on what ever sewing machine buy a new servo motor they have a way better control. If you need information about leather sewing machines post your questions in the sewing machine section here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/

These are feet for flatbed machines like Singer 31k, 96k and similar, they are way smaller and the wheel is approx 1/3 wide as the Adler / Singer roller feet we talked about. They also do not fit the foot bar and need modification. I`m also not sure if you can adjust the wheel far enough sideways to fit the 45K feet dogs.

Maybe they no longer have this roller foot or it probably is an old parts number. I just have checked an Adler 204 parts list. It also shows a roller foot but I do not know in which way it is different or if it is even the same. I´m just not 100% sure but I´m almost certain that it will fit. The number is: 104 22 012 4 You can download the parts list here: https://www.supsew.com/download/Durkopp%20Adler/Adler%20204-2.pdf See below pictures. EDIT: Just googled the parts number - looks like College Sewing in the UK can order them. But sit down before you open the link and see the price tag https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/104220124-roller-foot-durkopp-genuine.html

I also think the Pfaff 335 tension unit could work. Necchi and Pfaff have collaborated for a while afaik. Not a big loss if it fails: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143603134241 If it was me I´d give it a try. I´m pretty sure the Pfaff 335 manual will work for this machine as well. They are not crazy different as it seems.

Have you tried playing with the foot lift height. I mean how high the feet raise when sewing? Just a guess... See page 36 in the manual Juki-1541-instruction.pdf

Glad when I can help. The 45k and the mentioned Adler machines have the same foot bar diameter and the roller feet slide onto the foot bar. This is an extract from an Adler 4 and 5 Manual:

They are super hard to find and often go for 100€ +/-. Alternatively you can use Adler 4, 5, 104, 105, 164, 165 roller feet. They are pretty much the same but they are as rare as the 45K roller feet. The Adler Parts number for the roller foot is 06422 - maybe you can get one form an official Dürkopp-Adler dealer but expect a price above 100€

Maybe its the hook driving gear. Maybe a lack of oil? I´d oil the machine generously. Check the manual for that.

or have they cut a channel for covering the top seam. Like using a channel knife in boot making? Just a guess.

Welcome here - me is Singer-Idjit too because of your 29K58 - when a Chinese seller on Ebay or elsewhere offers new 29K parts then they are meant for the latest 29K´s like 29K71, 29K72, 29K73. That is because the Chinese have cloned these models and keep on making them but the earlier 29K´s in many cases are using different parts. 29K´s are by far not all the same. They share certain pars but especially the gear boxes have changed over the decades. You have at least 3 different sizes of gear box pinions and they are not interchangeable. The Chinese clone makers just do not know the earlier 29K models. They sell parts for machines they know / make but not for ancient machines. So can you blame them? Well - it depends I´d say. It´s like asking a modern Ford dealer for Parts for an F-150 from 1953. Some may know what you are talking but most likely they will have no parts for you. Since you are in Downunder MAFAR is probably a good parts source for you. https://marfar.com.au/

I would guess some set screws on the hook driving gears are loose. I´d tilt back the machine and check what is doing on the in drive train when turning the hand wheel.

I´m in the same boat. If you can afford the big machine go for it. Nothing wrong with that. Just wanted to share a different perspective.

I meant I could NOT justify... some folks say buy once cry once - maybe true if you have the money and you know you will have a good output. I have seen people buying f.i. a CB4500 and spent big money and soon figured its not the right hobby and sold the machine with a loss. If it is for a business then its a different story but still... Just my 2 cents.

Not sure how the tension release works in this state but when you buy the new tension unit you may need the tension release lever rod as well except it is present but I doubt. https://www.ronsew.com/lifting-lever-rod-267265-for-singer-212w/ looks like the upper thread guide + screw is missing too. https://www.ronsew.com/thread-guide-upper-267316-for-singer-211g-211w-211u-212g/ https://www.ronsew.com/screw-200582/ Maybe you should post some good large pictures from rear and front so we can figure if something else is missing

Don´t forget the good old Singer 45K or their modern clones like GA5-1 or CB2500. Also the Adler 5. These machines have been used for many decades before the triple feed machines became "en vogue". https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb2500.html Sure, not as good as the triple feed machines like cb4500 and the like but they work. Depends a little bit how thick you want to sew and if you want to sell leather goods or if you just sew things now and then. I´m using a Singer 45 and for me they work. I could justify a $2000-$3000 machine. I restored my 45D91 ~8 yrs ago and still have it. I´m not selling leather goods but it works for me.

Why bother - I´d replace it. Just 2 screws you have to loosen but you may have to adjust the tension unit https://www.ronsew.com/tension-unit-complete-240446-240024-singer-111g-except-111g117-singer-111w-singer-211w-singer-211g-singer153w-singer-168/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/162714404863 https://www.ebay.com/itm/152426630012 or buy local from a sewing machine dealer.

Sorry to say that but needle size matters!!!! Otherwise playing with the tension does not make much sense. If the 2nd picture shows the underside then I would guess your needle size is too small meaning the needle hole is not large enough so the thread knot cannot be pulled into the material. Thread tension is no science you don´t need markings you just have to understand how top and bottom tension plays together (mentioned in all proper sewing machine manuals) and again you have to use the right needle size. Even when a needle thread chart tells you what the "right needle" is in reality it can be slightly different. BTW the lower nut with the marking at 3 o clock has nothing to do with tension. The silver nut on the right (marking at 10 o clock) is just a light pre tension but the main tension unit is the nut with the marking at 1 o clock this is where you adjust the top thread tension in general.