Constabulary

Have googled for it or checked the manufactures website? It took me seconds to find it.

Chrages looks like ripped out of the context (kind of) cause we don't know from where you quoted this but I´d assume charge in terms of paint could means the amount of certain ingredients (filling quantity). I honestly think that creating an own paint from the scratch w/o having a background in chemistry or paint in general does not make much sense. it´s more than just mixing some ingredients I´d rather try to mix my own shade from existing colors from a well known manufacturer.

Basically depends on the hat style / design and if it requires some stiffens of the material. You may add some sort of stiffer on lets say a slouch hat or boonie hat. Know what I mean?

BTW - I cut some threads for attaching some edge guides and I also have an oil hole in it.

Different machine but basically the same thing. Some years ago I made a flat bed attachment for my Singer 45D91 from a IKEA bamboo cutting board. Super low cost (less than 20€ / $22) very sturdy and it has IMO it has a nice look. To be fair the cutting board idea back then came from LW member UWE. He made them way more professional than I but I was able to make it with the tools I have. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72789-singer-45d91-restoration/?tab=comments#comment-552472 https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/aptitlig-cutting-board-bamboo-80233430/ This is what UWE did https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65589-flatbed-table-attachment-for-pfaff-335/ I also made one from screen printing plate for my Singer 108w20 but to be honest I have never used it. That one was cheap also...

maybe loose set screw on the wheel?

does not help much - better upload the Video to Youtube and post a link here.

A buddy once told me there were different JD green shades.

IIRC the 217 came with 2 different cam readers. I think the later model is the 217N and it is using larger cams. Which one do you have please post some pictures.

no reverse lever so it is the 225 then. Needle size depends on the thread thickness you want to use.

Swing aside the top cover. You will see a dial with the stitch length numbers on it. Loosen the set screw of the dial push down the plunger in the flat bed and dial in the longest stitch length (5SPI it should be) then rotate the dial until you can see the 5 in the window then tighten the set screw again - and done. You maybe have to play with the position of the dial a little bit.

Yes, very similar to Singer 31K. This machine has a CB hook and wheel feed instead of a feed dog and a swing aside roller foot.The needle plate is missing, I hope you have it. If not then it will not sew. Finding a spare will be challenging I guess since the wheel feed Pfaff 34 were not very common. Here is a parts list for the 34, scroll down to the page 33/34 for the specific 34-5 parts. Pfaff_34.pdf

different thread size means different number of revolutions. Hmmm. I think I will stick with my DIY one that automatically stops when the bobbin is full no matter what thread size.

buy some leather scraps for testing. I never bought a hide. I just buy scraps. Often good enough for what I do.

sorry - it was a 250 / 27 needle I just checked.

Good question. I think it depends on how soft the material is. I have sewn some leather handles with linen thread a while ago. This is how it looks. Thread size unknown (old wooden spool) but I used a 280 / 28 needle. The holes are pretty well filled with the thread. Material is 10-11mm thick.

Foot pressure if often overlooked and folks keep it high when the last project required high foot pressure. Guess how I know (different machine though). I sew thick leather only now and then and I always do some tests before I start the project. Speaking of thread tension - a leather worker I know even has different hooks for different size thread and has marked the hooks with the specific thread size but he is using linen thread from one manufacturer only - no poly and no nylon. To me the needle holes still look fairly large - or not?

You are welcome. Its interesting fro me too to figure where to get bits for upcoming projects. Always good to have cross references especially for these very old machines. Fortunately Singer continued using certain parts so the chances are good to find even some of the "odd parts". Keep us posted with the restoration progress of your machine.

Playing with top and bottom thread tension and adjusting foot pressure is part of the sewing game when sewing different thicknesses or using different thread / needle sizes. You have to practice this. You just need as much foot pressure that the materials is not lifted by the rising needle. To me the needle holes look fairly large but I have not used D point needles. My preferred needle is the S point needle for having a straight seam look.

so is it a DIY or have you bought it as is on Ebay. How about a link or some explanations of what you did?

sorry - forget my last posts I just noticed the 2 videos with and without roller.

Saturday morning on my side of the pond... raining again... so I did some more research I found a complete tension unit that most likely fit your machine cause it is for the Singer 12w which is W&W based as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304633314716 And therefore this check spring should work for you as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304633311966 I also figured the parts number for the bobbin case tension spring: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293335114642 How have I figured this - well there is a 51w100 post bed machine and it is the old style 51w and it has a parts list... Bobbin case is the same as on my 51w so I would guess the other parts are the same as well so I googled the numbers and found the parts on Ebay. All to my best knowledge - cross check if you want. SINGER 51W100.pdf

just checked the 31k Parts list. Is this roller 1904 probably missing? https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1904-roller-for-nbar-con-stud-singer.html

to me it looks like as if there is missing a roller or slide block.

As I said before the machine sits in the box and I drop the box in the table cutout of my singer 111G156 which has an under table servo motor and I just put on a longer drive belt. The 212G141 it self has no motor installed. No hard cover no handles. When it is not in use I put a soft cover on it.