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Constabulary

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  1. Just from looking at the pictures IMO this machine rather is a clone of the Seiko SLH 2B with some differences but I guess the feet of the SLH should work. Singer 7 parts may work as well since the SLH is the "predecessor" of the Singer Class 7. Another option for parts is the Consew 733 (same as the Seiko). https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/seiko-sewing-machine-parts/seiko-slh-2b-2b-1-2b-fh1-parts EDIT: I just checked ebay for Consew 733 and found this https://www.ebay.com/itm/163280314467 Looks similar to what you are looking for. I would check with the seller because of the meassures.
  2. It´s a CB Hook machine. I assume its is 1920´s - 1930´s made. It was replaced by the Pfaff 25 and later by the Pfaff 28. This site will help you to figure the date: http://needlebar.org/main/dates/pfaff/index.html
  3. The Pfaff 23 is similar to the Singer 17 and Adler 48. This 23 Model has a reverse function which is quite rare. The machine either has a long beak shuttle or a CB hook but I guess its the long beak shuttle here. If it has the LBS then the bobbins are fairly small and do not hold much thread. Test if the bobbin winder works and if you can adjust forward and reverse stitches. Does the machine come with other accessories? Check what is in the drawer and tin box. The big flat bed attachment is very nice!!! I have a few files incl. an English language manual for the Adler 48 (similar machine) and a German language manual for the Pfaff 23 and so forth. Hope this helps. Check if the needle plate (needle hole) in good shape and nothing is broken. If broken do not buy it cause the needle plates are hard to find and if you can find them they are very very expensive. Only source I ever have found for a needle plate was this (same NP as for the 23 - nuts price) https://planetecouture.com/en/needle-plates/6024-plaque-aiguille-pfaff-28-rfrence-91-046-280-04.html IIRC the Pfaff needle plate cannot be replaced with Singer 17 parts. Pfaff_23_Anleitung.pdf Adler_48_Anleitung.pdf Adler_48_Broschüre_compressed.pdf Pfaff_23_Flyer.pdf
  4. can´t help with he model but it seems to be a needle feed only machine and the part on the plate kinda reminds me of a BUSMC #6 HM but this machine here has a barrel hook as it seems. I would guess it is a "modern clone" or modernized model of a BUSMC #6 HM - kind of. Do you have pictures of the back side? Quite interesting machine!
  5. w/o having seen pictures usually the hooks for thinner threads have a raised tip on the hook gib.
  6. check the number on your machine again - maybe you missed a digit
  7. Reminds me of a Singer 132K6 when looking at the feet, thread lever, needle plate and tension unit but machine seems to have a barrel hook (see bobbin winder). Regarding Sibyer I found this: http://www.sibyer.com/wap/cp.asp Use google translate Crap - they have every sewing machine you can imagine - sewing machine wonderland
  8. Picture does not tell much. Bobbin winder is missing and 2 screw of the stitch length scale. Not a too big issue I guess (w/o knowing more details). I´d put a plate where the oem bobbin winder was and buy this table mounted one. Thats the most economic way I guess. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143422223667
  9. For Pfaff: http://needlebar.org/main/dates/pfaff/index.html
  10. There is also a long one piece lifting lever that Seiko, Consew or Juki sold with their Singer 111 / 153 clone machines... https://www.ebay.com/itm/384985925128 You may find it at your local or preferred sewing machine dealer as well. I have one on my 111G156 as well but it is not connected to a pedal atm.
  11. if you have the parts numbers any Dürkopp-Adler dealer in the Neatherlands should be able to get them for you. If not check with Liersch, Zieger or Sieck in Germany https://liersch.com/ https://www.np-z.com https://www.sieck.de/
  12. https://www.districtleathers.com/products/transparent-horse-hide they have other fancy leather too I have never seen.
  13. It sounds quite interesting as it would eliminate the pendulum effect of the needle bar but I´m not sure about this.That would mean the pivot point of the rock frame is NOT on the top side of the rock frame as on almost most other triple feed machines. I think I have to check the 1341 parts list for that....
  14. Hope you are aware of import taxes and VAT.
  15. Long wait - so I guess you bought it on Alibaba and have it shipped to the UK?
  16. The orientation of that thread guide should not be an issue. Anyway, it is held in place by a tiny set screw coming from the top. See picture (yellow circle). Top thread look correctly threaded to me. So what is going on with the bottom thread. Or what is the overall problem? is it not sewing or not picking up the bottom thread?
  17. Be careful when taking it apart - parts are no longer available for this machine!!!! There is nothing Singer or Adler compatible on this machine. Looks like 1 or 2 plain springs are missing. Also leave the top shaft in place. Do not remove it except you know how to safely remove the cams and how to put them back on w/o damaging. Also be careful with the heart shaped cam on the needle bar. It is attached with a pin. Well, your decision but be careful! Lets hope your machine has the shuttle hook and bobbin cause they are no longer made. This was my class 17 restoration but mine was an earlier type.
  18. Please post some good clear pictures of your machine
  19. What needle size are you using? I would guess you need a needle 1 size bigger (for a larger hole) or more top tension or less bottom tension
  20. Maybe it is not threaded correctly. I unfortunately cannot give you any timing instructions. I rebuild a Class 18 approx 5 years ago and sold the machine later. That was the only class 18 I ever have worked with. I never touched one again. The Class 18 hook system is very unique and not comparable with "elastic" hooks as you find them in common patcher machines. This was my restoration journey (making 1 out of 2) back then maybe you find something that helps you. On page 2 I posted a video showing how to thread the machine all the moving parts and the cycle of how the hook system works / the hook it catching the thread loop . Hope this helps.
  21. There are 2 basic types of 51w sewing machines, an early type with thread take up lever on the left side and the later type with thread take up lever on the front side. You can download the manual for either type here. They should help to figure which one you have.
  22. Looks like an H4 machine, that means it should have 14mm foot lift!!! Before you let this machine go better test it to see if it suits your needs. Not having a drop feed does not mean that it only can do binding work. Pfaff 335 and Adler 69 also no not have drop feed (some do but most don´t) and they are very common in leather work. Back in the old days there were leather sewing machines with only needle feed meaning they had no feed dog at all and they worked! So if I was you I would test it before I make a decision only by the digits on a brass plate. Keep in mind that these digits just show how the machine was set up when it left the factory but it does not tell you if the machine has been modified. Test it - then make a decision. My 2 cents.
  23. Yea the 211 are a pain when it comes to hand wheels. I failed to remove it on my 212 (same as 211 but double needle). The 111´s are easier to work with IMO. But you can add a speed reducer instead of installing a lager hand wheel if you want to slow down the machine. Anyway - If I had to choose between the 2 above machines I would go with the 211. Are you sure the 230 is a walking foot machine? To me it looks like a plain drop feed machine.
  24. maybe you should tell us what thickness (all layers in total) you want to sew or what product. The 236 have a rather short stitch length and are meant for sewing shoe uppers and the like.
  25. looks like a 29K70 or 71 or the like but W/O front wheel or is and an earlier model in the K60´s subclass?
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