Constabulary

Videos are blurry and shaky and do not show "the whole scene". Anyway - as far as I can tell you have installed the needle bar and needle holder incorrectly and the needle clamp screw probably blocks the foot when lifting the foot lever. With other words rotate the whole needle bar until the clamp screw faces right. But I only can guess here.

@Icho Just checking. Any progress here? Did you get the parts and have installed them?

This thingy here is the needle deflector on machines with top loading bobbins. I think Singer called them needle guard. There are no other extra needle guides except the needle hole in the feed dog (if you want to consider this as a guide) and the needle hole in the inner foot (if not open to the front). I think that was just misunderstanding (guard... guide...) or saying something but meaning something different (that happens) - I think he meant the needle deflector / needle guard. EDIT: This is an extract from the Singer 111 manual:

Ha - they are in Germany - never heard of them before but worth checking their inventory! Thanks for the link

With needle guide he probably means the needle deflector.

This is a CLAES 233 - German made (in former GDR), parts are rare (feet f.i.) but hook is the same as for the Adler 269 (large hook). Maybe it can use Adler feet but I´m not sure. I have a German language manual for it - send me a PM if interested.

What 29K model is it - 29Kxx? The compete top tension unit is missing (still available) + the front drive shaft with bevel gear (available for 29k71 but I´m sure if tit will work with this hand wheel) but maybe the parts are in the drawer? Ask for a picture of the rear side and check if the long leaf spring is present - except it is a 29K51 then it has a coil spring in the head. Do you have more pictures?

Bad experience with Ebay or the seller on Ebay? That's two different stories. Ebay is not the seller it is just the platform for selling things. If it was me I would order this NOS Singer part. Just 10 bucks incl shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265243181471 I cannot imagine that it will not work However - you are aware that this type of machine came with different style hooks and therefore different bobbin case opener right? Are you sure 267351 is the one you need? Just checking w/o knowing details of your machine.

If it was me I would buy it but me is "Singer Idjit" I don´t know how different the parts are but usually getting Singer spares are rather easy but the machine itself is a rare bird. However - from just looking at the pictures it seems just the tension discs, beehive springs and nuts are missing. But maybe the parts are in the drawer.

I have a manual in German language if you are interested. The machine was manufactured in Wittenberge Germany and is a quite rare bird. This machine AFAIK was only made in Wittenberge and nowhere else in (Singer) World. If it is in good shape and all parts are present and not super expensive I would buy it. It can sew light weight / garment type leather.

Right side of the picture looks like a french seam and top and bottom thread appear to be of a different color. I´m not sure but I would say this was done with at least 2 machines. One double needle machine (with 1/4" gauge set I guess) and then a serger or fur sewing machine for reinforcing the inside seam. But I´m really not sure.

check your emails - it´s on the way.

Are you sure you are using the right needle? The 30-7 is using a longer needle than most other Adler 30 or Singer 29K patchers. The needle system for the Adler 30-7 / 30-70 is 332L. The L in this case means LONG. I have a Adler 30 mechanics manual but file is too big to upload here so send me a PM with your email address

I have overlooked this

seems to be available https://uwe.store/collections/featured-items/products/ut341-flatbed-for-juki-ls-341-class-machines Could be IP geoblocking if you can´t see the shop.

Just for the records - what shank diameter has 126x11? I have not found any data on 126x11.

I don´t know if there is anything special on a 111w154 but if 126x11 has the same shank diameter as 135x17 you only have to adjust the needle bar height and you do not need a new needle bar. EDIT: This guy here has a 111w154 as well and says at sec 0:26 he is using 135x17 so it should not be a problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dS_tfBNN_s

Yeah, I´m really not into any kind of domestic sewing machines (not at all) but just recently I came across this post coincidentally... https://naehfabrik.forumprofi.de/t11737f114-Anker-RZ-Automatic.html and worded if this kind of decorative sewing machine stitching (done here with an ANKER RZ) would not be interesting for thin leather projects like watch straps or so. Maybe someone is doing this already but I haven´t seen this yet. I´m just curious

Some years ago I was in about the same situation when I was hunting for a Singer 34K NB: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/ The REX here is a clone of the Singer 16-188. NB in the Class 16-188 parts list is # 4264 so this should work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292096957975 You may find it from other dealers too. EDIT: And don`t forget the needle bar clamp. I would also order some needle plate screws and 1 or 2 new check springs or a complete tension unit, 1 or 2 bobbin cases and a new CB hook just to have spares on hand when needed. The parts are not really expensive.

You mean the top shaft? Then no cause you have a pinned cam on either side of the shaft. If it causes mechanical issues (but I do not think so) I would add a very thin washer but removing one of the cams (in worst case) can cause more issues cause the pins are tapered and sometimes they are super tight.

@RC65 Yeees, weeeeeelll.... I heard of those people I have a 212G141 as well, I´m not using it much but it is good to have. I converted my into a split needle machine. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80209-singer-212-112-double-needle-converting-into-split-needle/

Slow running machines with a "rather simple" mechanical system can use heavier oil IMO. It will not kill the machine. I would not use heavier oil on domestic sewing machines but patchers with their big cams, rollers racks and pinions are tough! Some folks even put grease on the cams and it will not hurt but will be messy with the years. Sticky grease can make the machines run a bit more silent and sometimes compensates wear on parts.

To be honest - for 40 bucks I would buy this machine in a heartbeat. You do not need a treadle to run it. The short arm patchers are great for mounting on a board and hand crank them. It seems to be a 29K51 and the outer condition seems to be very good. Patchers are very versatile (I have the later 29K71) but as WIZ said they are not really machines for producing things. Anyway - great useful machines especially at that price. Just from the picture looks like the nuts for the tension units are missing (still available) and I´m not sure about the bobbin winder. The critical parts on this machine are the pinions in the gear box, they are special (fine teeth) and they are obsolete but considering the outer condition I would assume the pinions are still good cause the machine does not show much outer wear. If it was me I would buy it.

"Old Singers" can means everything and nothing . Singer made hundreds of different industrial and domestic machines and made dozens of leather sewing machines for different kind of leather work. I`m using vintage Singer sewing machines only (nothing else). So it depends on what kind of leather products you want to make and what Singer sewing machine models you are talking about. If you mean the small domestic machine with treadle base - well you may be able to sew some garment type leather with them with thin thread but sewing belts, boots, holsters or bridles is not possible. Maybe this thread helps to narrow downs what type of machine could suit your needs

Keep in mind that the 29-4 are more than 100 yrs old and parts can be worn or even worn off. Not sure if I got you right but I´d check it you have some sideways play on the top shaft. If there is play and you have a load change on the inner cam (the one on the top shaft you see through the window on the rear) you may hear a clacking sound (most likely its the cam pulley banging slightly against the casting). First thing I would try is oiling all the cams and rollers and the shaft bushings with an heavier oil like motor oil f.i..