Constabulary

Most folks don´t care about "barn find condition machines" over here and especially not old odd Singers. But that is just what I like. For sure a little bit of a challenge but when I fail it did not cots much - just some bucks for gas and oil and WD40... Today I pulled out (no I hammered it out) the Zig Zag unit. Damn - totally seized up in the casting and WD40 and applying heat did not help much. The ZZ unit housing is aluminum and after siting in cast iron machine for several decades and the machine was sitting in a barn for... I don´t know how long... well that was a quite challenge but seems I did not damage the parts (will figure when it is back in the machine and ZZ is adjusted). The ZZ unit housing needed some good sanding and polishing but it now goes back in fairly easy but it is still tight fitting. I really feared braking it. I just needed quite some force (IMO) to drive it out - that reminded me of my 1st 111G156 when I hammered out the bushing on the hand wheel when I replaced the timing belt.... When I got it sewing and ZZ is working properly I will decide how I will go on with this machine...

Last thing I need is another zig zag machine but I was looking for a 207D for quite a while cause it is a quite interesting machine. But I wanted one in a better shape and not a barn find again. Will this ever end? Well - when it is for free you just grab it, right? Maybe there must be something addictive in the Singer cast iron The Singer "D" machines were made in Wittenberge, Prussia and I don´t think the 207 model was made anywhere else in the world. It is a beefed up version of the Singer 206 (kind of) but the 207 has a CB hook and no timing belt but seems to have some similarities in the ZZ mechanism. Interesting part here is that it is a CB hook zig zag machine and this (the CB hook zig zag) is AFAIK quite rare among industrial size machines, isn't it? And on top of that for a drop feed machine it has a very very long stitch length (dial say 8mm) especially for a machine of this age (WWII wartime made I guess). Stitch length dial and reverse lever seem to be from the Singer 96. So I think it is worth tinkering a little bit. Not sure where I will end with this... The wooden table base is worm eaten so not worth saving but the plate is still quite good so maybe I´ll keep it. The wooden pedal is cool too but has a lot of surface wear. Machine is bone dry and not spinning at all... Some picture:

So what machine are you using an Adler 30-7 or a Singer 29 clone / copy??? When using a Singer 29 / 29K clone / copy are you using the correct needle system 332 / 29x4 / 29x3 / or 135x16 / 135x17 and the long grove is facing left? If you are using a 30-7 the needle is longer than for the 29 / 29K and the system is called 332 LONG / 332L. Or try a new needle and read the manual again - this sometimes helps.

I do not know your machine in particular but I have changed needle bars on machines for using a different needle system. Needle bar length and diameter matter. 6.35mm / 1/4" is a Singer standard and I think the needle bar of a Singer 111w could probably work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/152426180931 You can use needles with 2mm needle shank then. If this NB is too long just cut it down. Since you are in the UK I would also check with College Sewing or Trojan Sewing - they for sure have this needle bar too.

So what problem are you tying to explain? Have you read the manual? Do you have some pictures of your threaded machine?

I´m using this image resizer by Brice Lambson since... forever: https://www.bricelam.net/ImageResizer/ super fast, super easy just by using the context menu (right click on picture....) in Windows

How many do you actually need?

and we all would like to see them Maybe you can post some good pictures of what you have.

IIRC this is an outsole stitcher probably made by GRITZNER in Germany. EDIT: I knew I have seen it here before: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/71106-gritzner-sole-stitcher/

Similar to the Singer 45K1 but with a longer flat bed (Adler 4 are a ll a bit longer than the 45K), It is using system 328 / 214 needles and the same hook and bobbin as the Singer 45K. The interesting part here is it has a back gear / speed reducer. Not sure if yours is complete seems the hand wheel is missing.

You are welcome It will not be cheap but these Co´s make it a lot easier. I have used shipito and colisexpat. Read their rules to make sure you know what expenses come on top. But they both worked well for me but have not used them for quite a while.

@SteveOz Maybe a parcel forwarder is an option for you. https://www.shipito.com https://www.colisexpat.com https://www.myus.com/

Your motor is very old. Not sure how safe it is to run it. Some wires may have a brittle isolation or so due to the age. Servo motors are the better option if you are not familiar with electrical wiring and you usually can change the rotation direction in the motor menu. Honestly better buy a servo motor.

So far all fur sewing machines I have seen run clockwise meaning truing the hand wheel away from you. KGG already mentioned it - see section HINTS (page 7) In operating the machine always tum the wheel from you. you also have a hint on top of page 6 when operating the machine the balance wheel should turn from you. You can change the the rotation direction of certain sewing machine motors. Your Singer motor looks like what we call an "Anlasser Motor" in Germany. I think you have a stack of metal prongs in it that make contact when you push down the lever on the right / the foot pedal. The more prongs make contact the faster the motor runs. But it also could be that is has some sort of rheostat. On most motors of this type you can change wiring and instructions for that are inside the motor near the wire terminal plate or the stack of metal prongs / the rheostat. But to be honest I never have touched this type of Singer motor so I do not know for sure here.

They are out of production for a long time and even if you find the parts (you never know) they may cost more than the machine is worth when restored. Maybe a 2nd machine for parts would help but they are quite rare. Anyway - since you are in NZ checking with MARFAR in Australia may be an idea. They sometimes pop up when I´m looking for parts. Maybe they have old stock they do not have listed in their webshop. Just a guess. https://marfar.com.au/

Please post pictures of your machine. If possible one pic from the left side with removed face plate please.

Did you read the manual? Maybe not correctly threaded. Please post some pictures of your threaded machine and one view from the open slide plate that covers the hook.

You should post some pictures of your machine so we know how it looks in its current state. Do I get you right - you want to convert the 45K56 jump foot machine into a 45K25 roller foot machine? If that is the case you may need an OEM Singer or Adler roller foot that slides onto the presser foot bar and you have to remove the parts the govern the jump foot mechanism (IIRC). I´m ot sure if after market version of this kind of heavy duty roller foot do exist. But you may need some other parts as well. It would help if we could see your machine - please post some good pictures.

I can´t help but just today I read in a Pfaff mechanics instruction manual (for Pfaff 332) that ex factory there is a 10% difference between F and R stitch length in order to not pierce (damage) the thread of the forward stitch. This has nothing to do with your machine but from my observations there very often is a difference between F and R stitches on different machines - maybe for a purpose? Not sure how different the machines are internally but externally the Pfaffs often have the same stitch length lever so maybe this is an idea for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtT7QejY2eQ

or compare measures from the offer with your bobbins

I once owned a 110w which is the flat bed Version basically. Cool machine but way too short stitches for what I do. You will find the gears in the parts list of your machine but I honestly doubt there will be gears for 4-5mm stitches. This is an extract from the 110w parts list. Not sure if the gears are the same in your machine so this is just meant as an example. I think the stitch length (stitches per Inch) is the number behind the part numbers.

Just a guess - It may have happened that they sorted screws into the wrong bin. I once ordered screws for the 29K71 paddle spring on the needle bar and received screws for the 29K72 hook spring. You never know - this happens. Since they have the screws and the needle bars too ask if they could check if their screws fit their needle bars cause you think an error could have happened while sorting the screws. The needle bars of the Adler 67 167 69 169 and so forth should all be the same.

You are aware that you have not installed the needle plate in the video, right? Without the needle plate in place it will never work correctly.

The timing is the same as for the Singer 107w or 143w cause they are using the same hook. Difference is that the 307G2 has the hook drive gears covered in a grease filled gear box but thats not relevant for the timing. Hope this helps: Also check this thread - as I said before the hook is the same on 143w and 307G2:

I think Singers UFA / 29 was the earlier model but I don´t know if a license was sold to Adler but I don´t think so.