Constabulary

Bob, I´m not sure but the weren´t just the Japanese made 211 (211U...) equipped with the check spring stop on the tension unit. Not sure though but my needle feed 212 has no spring stop on the tension unit I have the curved piece mounted to the casting I recall that I added the curved metal spring stop to the two 211U566 I worked on cause I did not find one with an "integrated" spring stop.

It´s not an OEM part, do not expect OEM Quality and when I look at the Amazon reviews - seems sometimes they do not fit. I bought this one twice (not OEM quality either) and both fit an work (at least on the 211U566 I worked on): https://www.ebay.com/itm/143413567310 But you can get just studs from good sewing machine dealers too but I do not know how much they are - can´t be much. Don´t know which is bent but tension stud is 201224 and regulator stud is 201199. If you buy them from Ebay I would buy new nuts too and when possible from the same dealer - or check with a known sewing machine dealer.

You have a fairly old Seiko LSC 8BV - the current model is LSC 8BV-2. I don´t know but maybe the older machine had 5mm and the later or current model with the 1 and 2 a suffix have 6mm. Does the feed dog use the full lenght of the needle plate cut out or is there some space left?

https://www.tolindsewmach.com

I don´t know how your machine looks or how it is setup (maybe with bells & whistles?) but usually you can raise the presser foot bar. The position of the screw holes may look different cause the needle plate is wider at the 3/8 plate. Hard to tell from the picture but the feed dog height should be measured from the bottom side of the screw hole and not from its bottom end. But again I only can guess cause I´m not in front of your machine. Keep in mind that you have to move the two hook saddle sideways when using the 3/8 gauge. BTW - this was my Singer 212G141 project.

that to me looks like a plain 212 set, foot looks a bit different but I would give the 212 set a try. They do not cost much on Ebay or so. EDIT: when I look closer I think the needle plate underside is different - I guess because of the thread trimmer knife. BTW - the needle plate may have a longer cut out for the feed dog. The 212 I have just has 5 SPI and I guess your may have a longer stitch length. Not sure though. But that could make a difference too.

can you post a picture of your gauge set so we know how yours looks like and compare it with a 212 gauge set. maybe it´s just a minor difference and the 212 set can be modified. Just a guess.

Maybe I do not understand your setup (no offense). So you run a compressor to air power a vacuum pump that sucks up the leather remnants? If it was me I would use a electrical vacuum cleaner like one of these 30-40 bucks ash / oven vacuums. Know what I mean? I think thats more effective - or not? https://www.lidl.de/p/parkside-aschesauger-pas-1200-f5-18-l/p100335698 Or a cheap wet / dry vacuum https://www.lidl.de/p/parkside-nass-trockensauger-pwd-12-a1-inkl-3-teiligem-saugrohr/p100348045 You may find them in local classifieds for 1/2 the price or so.

Maybe its me but I do not understand the relation between compressor and vacuum pump for a skiver - isn´t a vacuum cleaner (kind of) what you need to suck up the leather remnants? Maybe one of these ash or oven vacuums is what you need.

For me it looks like the needle bar is set way to low. Are you sure you are using the same needle system / same length needle as before? If so then something is seriously wrong. In the pictures the needle tip is where the feed dog supposed to be mounted. So how does it get there - only reason is a too long needle or a too low set needle bar. Not speaking about the needle hook timing but thats something you should check. I guess you have a proper manual for your machine so the needle hook timing should be mentioned in it. Here is a JUKI 341 manual (same machine) Juki LS 341.pdf

No one knows what a certain dealer has in stock so its either trial and error or you buy from a dealer who provides the bobbin measures. The 9033 is quite a standard bobbin that fits for a lot of different Pfaff machines. This looks promising to me: https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/809301592/cutex-pack-of-28-metal-bobbins-9033-for

111G and 111W are basically the same - 111W was made in the USA and 111G was made in Germany. So what ever you find for the 111W works for the 111G as well.

I think I have a PDF manual for this machine but it is in German language - send me a PM with your email address and I can forward it to you.

that depend on your machines subclass and the size of the needle hole in the throat plate and how the whole machine is set up but reg. the Pfaff website the current 1295 takes 110 - 150 needles so 138 should be possible and maybe (maybe !!!) 207 but thats something you have to try. Earlier models may not exceed 138 but again it depends on how the machine is set up. https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/post-bed/pfaff-1295 Needle thread chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Some info that I found in a technical description of a Singer 18-22. Looks like left stand machines exist because of "operators preferences" but not because of "sewing technical reasons". Thats at least how I read it.

Schmetz explains it better than I could: https://www.schmetz.com/en/industrial-needles/needle-compass/round-points/ https://www.schmetz.com/en/industrial-needles/

B is medium weight material. To Pfaff specs this means needle NM 80 - NM100 but I´m sure you can use 120 as well (just try) and maybe a more coarse toothed feed dog compared with the A Model. So nothing special for heavy duty. S is for the zz needle hole width (4.5mm). Don´t let sub classes on the tag mislead you. It´s a plain 138 garment / tailor sewing machine with 4.5mm Zig Zag. As far as I can tell a tension spring and nut are missing as well as the 2 thread guides on the face plate and on the needle bar. 138 came with different needle bars. I think the thread guide here was just a piece of bent wire held by 1 screw on the needle bar but I´m not sure.

equivalent is the Singer 95 or 95K

When I bought my 212G141 (same style take up lever but with 2 holes) I figured the lower part (lets say the "slide tube") is bent. I had a hard spot when turning the hand wheel. It took a lot of time to figure that. I had to remove the needle bar rock frame and stuff and when the take up lever was out it was smooth again. Ordered a new take up lever from College Sewing UK installed it and I was back in service. I have no idea how this thing can bend but it was! Not sure if you have the same issue - hard to tell from a distance

Not sure what you mean with small stitches in regard to the edge guide... However it maybe be better to use a drop down guide which you can adjust sideways and in height. Like this one here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/143603133045 it mounts to the backside of your machine and you may need an adapter for mounting it (requires drilling and taping t

I have no 97 (unfortunately) but some Singer 7 and Seiko SLH 2 have a similar part - not sure if it will fit but I just wanted to give this hint: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/35141-inner-presser-foot-seiko-slh2b-use-with-outer-foot-35096-genuine.html Maybe this helps - maybe not.

No thats why I put it in quotation marks. Sometimes folks that come from domestic machines (you never know) have a different view on sewing machines and the industrial sewing machine world can be different to what they have experienced so far (sometimes). I just wanted to give a hint where you can find information on old Singer industrial models.

Too many different questions fro just 1 thread I think. I run 2 750W JACK servos (same as yours but with more power), on both I have a 40 / 50mm pulley installed and also a 1:3 speed reducer. I guess yours still has the original 75mm pulley so I would replace the pulley with a smaller one (easy task usually). You find them on Ebay quite cheap (come from China) - BUT - these pulleys have a 15mm bore some JACK servos come with a 13mm and some with a 15mm bore. If yours has a 13mm shaft so can use a piece of 15mm tube with 1mm wall to adapt it. You can also make adjustment on the starting speed. 500rpm is the lowest you can set BUT the motor will actually start at 200rpm (shown in the display) - at least my 2 JACK servos do. cheap small pulleys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323356609027 Motor speed adjustment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hi09g49JksA Speed reducers can be DIY made from some simple parts or you can also buy them from certain dealers. Not sure what sources you have in France but in Germany you can get them from SIECK. They sell internationally and they speak English. https://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/shoe-upper-sewing-machines/diverse-machines/?produkt=9237 But as mentioned before with a speed reducer installed the needle position will not work any more however the machine can be run very slow then and you don´t really need a needle petitioner. But depends on your preferences. I don´t need the NP. Find more info about all kind of speed reducers here: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum Other than a speed reducer you can do what TOXO did (see above). Also a question of preferences but both speed reducer or larger hand wheel work well. The foot pressure on the 239 will be adjusted with a knurled screw in the center of the top of the machines - same as on Singer 111. The 239 Dürkopp has a lot in common with the Singer 111 but certain things are different. If you need a manual for your machine you can use the Singer 111G156 manual partially (as I said it has a lot in common but is not the same) - other than that I can send you a Dürkopp 239 manual in German language if that helps. Depends on your project. Usually a smaller bottom thread is used when you have problems with centering the thread knot in the center of the material but IMO thats a very rare occasion and mainly is when you sew thicker or dense (or both) materials but it depends. In lets say 90% of the cases I use the same thread size top and bottom. I rather go up with the needle size than using a smaller bottom thread. It just depends... Usually the needle entry hole (on the top side) looks better / cleaner than the needle exit hole (on the bottom side) so it may depend on your project. But I would generally sew from the side where the seam is visible on the finished product.

But you have to be able or at least be willing to help your self solving some machine issues. Making something out of nothing is the biggest pleasure for me. 2nd what Shoepatcher said - basically both are triple feed machines and use the same type of hook. Advantage of DA machines IMO is that they offer a lot of special application accessories for their machines ex factory. At least they did in the past. Not sure what is still available for the 205 which is obsolete now AFAIK. BTW - Dürkopp took over Adler and the Co. is now Dürkopp-Adler so DA is not a clone of Adler.

you can also use round point needles for certain leather work. Especially for lighter leather. So basically any system 16 / 1738 / DBx1 / 287 needle will work in this machine.