Constabulary

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/index/?needle_size=5644&q=214x+needle 216x1 is approx the same but is slightly different in the tip area. They were used with Singer 132K and the like

You mean the needle bar height or needle to hook distance?? From my experience when you read the 111w manual you have the right order of what to do first.

The bobbin case tab has to sit in the notch of the needle plate - see tips of the arrow. Remove the needle plate screws, rotate the bobbin case and put back on the needle plate. EDIT: Looks like you figured it

Correct but depends on the work you have and last but not least your budget. My old bottom feed 51w works well for what I do but yes an improvement is always possible . I once owned a Singer 110w flat bed with wheel feed - I loved it but the stitch length was just too short (different story).

if it comes to double needle machines I would always choose a Singer based machines (Juki, Seiko, Cosew...). You will have a hard time finding gauge sets for the Pfaff 142 (if available at all) and you cannot use Singer gauge sets on the Pfaff. I have a 212G141 and love it. I don´t use it often but it works great. Maybe you are interested what I did with my machine: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80209-singer-212-112-double-needle-converting-into-split-needle/

You need 2 screws one from the left the other from the right. Check the casting - you have 2 threaded screw holes.

this is the cover for the "right side" gear box and will not fit the hook drive gears. Just google the parts number: 91-000 073-15 Screw is M3.5x9 If it was me I´d either order one from a dealer near you or tap a new thread maybe M4 or M5 or so.

Check these 2 parts . 1.) is held by a set screw and is probably slightly offset EDIT: I´m a tad to late as it seems

@MtlBiker Post bed machines can be very special. You have roller presser feet + bottom feed on "plain" post bed machine. Some can use regular presser feet too (or adapters are available) and some have fixed roller feet. In addition you can have permanent wheel drive (instead of a feed dog), then there are also motor driven roller presser feet (via a small drive belt). An then you can have needle feed option too and also triple feed (as on your 206). Not all combinations are possible and not all machine models are available with these features. As always - it depends on what sewing work you have. My Singer 51w is a "plain" one with bottom feed (drop feed) w/o reverse and set up for Singer type feet but I have an adapter so I can put on a simple roller foot to.

This machine is a bit different to what I have read in the Class 17 manual (of a later version I guess) so far . At least in terms of how to insert the needle correctly / timing. Usually you shove the needle all the way up in the needle holder tighten the needle holder screw and done. This machine is different. When I took it apart I noticed a very clear mark on the needle bar (very unusual for a patcher). Now that it is almost reassembled again I had to figure how to time the machine. It has an eccentric on the gear box (see earlier post) but it indeed ist not for timing it is for compensating wear on the racks and pinion and that is a great feature! I the hell was not able to figure the timing cause I shoved the needle all the way up (of course). I assumed you can advance or retard the shuttle driver pinion by 1 tooth or so.... but no - did not work. Then yesterday night I went trough my manual collection and hell I found an original manual (German Language) for this machine . Did not even know that I have one and since when - really no clue. Now it is clear what the mark on the needle bar is for. So, you have to bring the needle bar in a position that the mark is leveled with the surface of the top side of the head. Then insert the needle in the needle holder until the needle eye is leveled with the surface of the needle plate. And then the machine is timed right. Unusual but not a bad idea. But you have to know that cause all other patcher machines I ever had (yet) were different to this. Will post more pictures later.

Ha - 2.5K is a lot - you can get the clones of the Mitsubishi PB 810 with reverse for approx 1.8k or less: If you ask me - they are all the same "breed" just setup slightly different (with speed reducer or not and so forth) or with a different name tab on or slightly different casting. https://www.google.com/search?q=810+post+bed+sewing&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi56arjzOn7AhVQ2qQKHXRuAN0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1680&bih=878&dpr=1 https://atlaslevy.3dcartstores.com/Single-Needle-Post-Machine-Mitsubishi-Style-AtlasUSA-AT815_p_4422.html https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-810-post-bed-roller-foot-industrial-sewing-machine.html https://sunny-sewing-machines.myshopify.com/products/thor-gc-810-post-bed-roller-foot-sewing-machine?variant=32410588938380 https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-5110-post-machine/ https://thorsewingmachines.com/index.php/product/thor-gc-810-post-bed-roller-foot-sewing-machine/ The dealer choice is yours. But I would probably look for one as local as possible. Maybe you can even pick up the machine or go to the dealer for testing. Looks like Sunny Sewing Machines is in Texas. Advantage of the 810 model is that certain spare parts are available fairly cheap. I have used some of the parts on my decades old Singer 51w sewing machine and they still work (but thats a different story).

it´s almost fully assembled but still needs work - I´ll post pictures tomorrow.

The 211 is a 212 double needle needle feed. The 68 looks like a button hole machine....

I´m getting closer. Bobbin winder and head almost done...

Really? When I check google I find this for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/402349074068

alright - so black it will be Just primed the machine casting and some parts.... More pics in the coming days...

Another ex clutch motor upcylcling thingy. This is the flange of a MORETTI clutch motor. It has two ZZ ball bearings with 15mm inner diameter so it works great for building a speed reducer. Not that I need another speed reducer but why not keeping it for a future project. Could come handy one day. Maybe for a box type speed reducer or for mounting it directly onto a stand. I wanted to cut cut it squared but ran out of cutting discs.

Glenn, yet most parts were just dirty but not rusted. Dried oil + dust sometimes looks like rust. The parts turned out really nice! I´m not sure about the color for the casting. I have green in mind or just black as it was.

Some basic info. From just looking at the machine it seems to be a Mitsubishi Clone of the Singer 212G140. A double needle machine with drop feed + needle feed and no reverse.

Head is apart EDIT: cannot rotate the pics I shot with my cellphone as it seems

105 is the predecessor of the 205. The subclass 64 on both are drop feed + needle feed - no walking foot

Some say they breake the bank at $1K some at $1/2K already and some at $2K or $3K... it depends on how much play money you have (or don´t have) for your hobby. Same with medium and heavy work - it depends from what kind of work you come and what you want to do now. If you have sewn garments and curtains (just as an example) then tent canvas will be heavy duty for you if you come from parachute harness sewing or holster sewing then tent canvas will be rather light duty... (looking at you machine list I know you have not sewn parachute harnesses ) Upgrading your machines is partially possible - but depend on how they are set up now. Speed reducer and servo motor are upgrades but will probably not take them where you want them cause the machine have their limits and all of them are just "plain" drop feed machines and rather light duty machines (but again it depends on the view / from what work you come and what you want to do now). kgg mentioned some good machines but we do not know what kind of work you have or what products you want to make. A basic point is what total thickness (not single layers) of material do you want to sew. Used machines are probably an option too. I bought all my machines used (see my signature) cause I do not have the output that would justify new big $$ machines (the breaking the bank thing - you know ). There is a pined thread of how to find a leather sewing machine - maybe that helps you.

Sometimes it helps lowering the needle bar just a tiny bit. Also rotating the needle a few degrees toward the took tip could help. It also happens that the hook is set to far away from the needle. In that case you have to move the hook saddle closer to the needle. Just a guess w/o knowing your machine

I have speed reducers on all my machine stands, most 3:1 ratio. But a more powerful motor with 750W for sure will make a fifference as well. Speed reducer can be DIY as well - some pictures from what was posted here in the forum: https://www.google.com/search?q=DIY+speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjLq5a_8br7AhXROewKHfAhCeMQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=DIY+speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1DKDVi3GGDWJmgAcAB4AIABuAGIAd8EkgEDMS40mAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=DiJ5Y8vsDdHzsAfww6SYDg&bih=878&biw=1680

The use for darning may come from an Adler 30 manual but that basically is the very same. I do not have a darning device but IIRC WIZ has a daring device on is 29K patcher.