Constabulary

I would tilt back the machine and check what the allen key is doing... EDIT: You can download parts lists here. Maybe they help you to figure the function. https://rexel-com-pl.translate.goog/content/33-katalogi-minerva?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=de&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

you will not find many oz measures in the EU. Grams per meter or square meter is more common. https://www.esvocampingshop.com/de/outdoorstoffe-zeltstoff/baumwolle/ https://www.stoffkontor.eu/stoffe/canvas/ https://www.stoffe-zum-leben.de/köper-canvas-segeltuch-zeltgewebe/

So how much speed reducer reduction will this motor / needle positioner now accept? 1:2, 1:3 or even more? Does it matter how big the motor pulley is? Usually these motors comes with ~75mm pulley but most LW swap it to 40-50mm pulley. I´m just a user but not an electronics geek so this question may sound stupid (maybe not). Is there (probably) a way to adjust the "reduction acceptance" (I have no other word, sorry) in the motor management menu? That would be a great feature.

looks like a plain drop feed sewing machine but a blurry 7 second video is not very helpful to clearly ID a sewing machine. Do you have a link to the full length video? BTW I would open a new topic for this request cause this clearly is not a 441 type leather machine

You are using a fairly thick needle for a fairly thin thread as it seems. Check this needle thread cart for finding the right needle / thread size combination: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html This is a GA5-1 Chinese made machine - basically a modern version of the Singer 45K Here is a manual and parts list, hope this helps : 06_Techsew GA5-1 manual.pdf Techsew GA5-1 Parts.pdf

Global was probably the seller / distributor of this machine but not the manufacturer. They also sell used machines. I would assume a Minerva 72401, 72405 or something in between. EDIT: kinda like this one (scroll down): https://maszynyobuwnicze.wordpress.com/maszyny-szyjace-2/

lowering the needle bar just a tiny bit sometimes helps EDIT: BTW maybe this video by LW member UWE helps to figure issues with reverse:

We do not know the robe or the size of the piece or thickness of the leather or what it should look like when finished but generally sewing a thin layer of what ever onto a piece of leather should be technically possible. Why not?

or as a dealer / distributor to sit down for 1 or 2 hours and compile one. That would reduce customer headache and questions - I guess.

We do not know how your machine is set up and if you have a circuit breaker on your machine or not. No matter what when you leave an (especially older) electric deceive plugged in I would recommend a circuit breaker or a power strip equipped with one.

So when your bobbin is empty and you replace it you have to pull up the bottom thread, right? How would it work w/o removing the work? EDIT: Huh - looks like the guy in this video does NOT pull up the bottom thread when he starts sewing with his 205RB (Minute 10:00 onward) https://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-205RB-1 Interesting - seems to be working. Not sure why but looks like it does. So when looking at the Video I would assume you just change the bobbin as shown and go on with sewing. Seems there is no need to pull up the bottom thread on this machine - for what ever reason.

I´m late to the show here but in case you buy the goods on Ebay then (usually) Ebay charges you the VAT automatically and in some cases even the import tax and forward it to the Gov. Then your seller gets a code he has to write on the address label so the carriers know VAT / Tax is paid. Thats at least what I experienced. Like Ebay or not but when it comes to international purchases Ebay often the easiest way to buy goods from foreign countries. Check this: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-and-overseas-goods-sold-directly-to-customers-in-the-uk

guessing it is Tennessee Attachment Co. Inc. https://www.tnattachmentco.com

yes, looks like a darning machine.

Well, nothing really new in this video. However - does the needle positioning work in combination with a speed reducer?

Nice find! Roller feet are sought after and accessories are always priceless! I guess #5 is for folding leather strips for reins but I only can guess. Do you know in what kind of leather business this machine was used? Maybe the products they made can give an idea what #1 and #5 were used for. Maybe the 2 bits are custom made but when you browse through the parts list of other 45K machines (different sub classes means different accessories) you sometimes see obscure accessories so that probably is a good source to figure what you have.

The speed reducer probably is the best solution for you. It ads torque and slows down the sewing speed. So at very slow speed you are still able to sew quite very thick materials (depends on your work and material if you need that or not). I have speed reducer on ALL my industrial machine tables / stands.

I do not recall everything cause it was some years ago when I restored. I´m sure everything was apart except the top shaft. I think when you remove the handle there is a set screw behind it... But not I´m really sure... Looks like your foot is stuck in the upper position have you tried applying more foot pressure?

sorry can´t tell from the Video - but some years ago I restored a Dürkopp 18 (no longer have it) but maybe you can see something in the pictures from my restoration or the pictures other have posted and the video in this thread: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76826-dürkopp-18-patcher-restoration-long-journey/page/2/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76826-dürkopp-18-patcher-restoration-long-journey/?do=findComment&comment=517817

I do not know the the size but if it is easier just tap a new thread - I´d go that way if you have the tools

Its better when you post pictures of YOUR machine. Front and back and some more pictures of "around the head" so we can see the details better and if something is missing. If you can shoot a video and upload it to youtube it would be even better but not just a 5 second video, take your time and make a proper Video - if possible.

I have the leaf spring and maybe some other bits if needed. I`ll send you a PM. Your pics are small and I cannot see details very well but the racks and pinions should be aligned like this to work properly. This is from a Adler 30 but Singer 29K are similar.

maybe you should post pictures of your machine and the "parts situation" cause industrial sewing machines are often set up / equipped in different ways.

As far as I know the 132K / 133K needle bars are too short but yes they have the same diameter. The 132k / 133k have a longer internal top bushing therefore the needle bar is shorter.

I would go with the Pfaff but depends on the overall conditions of the two machines. What I like better on the Pfaff is the stitch length adjuster and the machine has no timing belt. It is shaft driven. "Around the hook" they are very similar. No one can guarantee you the Paff will sew better. That often is a question of how the machine is set up (needle hook timing, needle hook distance and so forth - also age and wear matters). I would test sew them both with the max. material thickness you would sew in your business and then decide.