Constabulary

You are welcome - always glad when I can help folks with their old sewing cast irons

I meant renamed

Make sure the V-Belts are tight enough and do not slip. But anyway - servo motors are the best option nowadays. I run my Singer 111G156 with a 750W servo and small pulley and with a 1:3 speed reducer and it punches trough 10mm thick Mil Spec cotton webbing at slow speed - just saying... Back then I bought my JACK servo from College Sewing in the UK.

I´m in touch...

I just went trough my sewing needle records and found that NECCHi made a machine class called OPC. Maybe it is an abbreviation or maybe OPC was an earlier class and they later remanded it with a number system or the other way around - I don´t know. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=NECCHI+OPC https://cambriacuciti.it/negozio/aghi/aghi-industriali/aghi-328/ Hope this helps - sorry it it in German language:

But the NECCHI 643 seem to exists and the 110 is (as on other sewing machines too) the subclass that describes technical details or how the machine was set up when it once left the factory. However NECCHI machines of the Class 643 are quite rare as it seems. This is a NECCHI 643 but set up as darning machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwdUIyglEnE Bobbins / hook for the 643; https://www.ebay.com/itm/124505097381 https://www.amazon.de/Shuttle-Haken-geschlossener-Rahmen-Spulen-Singer/dp/B07Q313P6S So I think the data plate on the machine "could" be right - not sure though. I have a 45K and I know the Adler 5 - they usually can sew 12mm leather. But it depends on how the machine is set up. The Singer 45K´s and Adler 5 usually have a much larger / heavier hand wheel you at least need a powerful servo motor (would recommend 750Watts) with small 50mm pulley and I personally would add a speed reducer as well for slowing down the sewing speed and increasing the torque. I`m can use needles up to size 250 (metric) but I seldom do I usually sew with 180 or 200 needles with 11/3 (metric) thread. The needle system on these machine usually is 328 or 214x2

I still would assume you need a larger needle or a thinner bottom thread and / or try a heavier beehive spring on the tension unit. If the former owner sewed fabric then the spring may be too weak. This is from College Sewing in the UK but you will find them on your end as well: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/b3114-232-000-beehive-spring-heavy-juki-genuine.html When you haven lowered the foot on the material do the tension discs feel kinda loose or wiggly?

It´s a clone of the Singer 45K or Adler 5. It´s a drop feed machine w/o reverse. The Adler 5 or Singer 45K manual will work for this machine Since it is made in Italy I would guess it was made by NECCHI. So it´s a NECCHI 643-110 I´d say.

@pgc That is a great information - I love figuring what parts are interchangeable between different brand machines. Often the Japanese brands and a lot of nowadays Chinese made machines seem to have a very similar "standard" (if not the same) and are often Singer based. The gauge set you linked (just from looking at it) looks pretty much like the Singer 212 Gauge sets. Thanks!

I know like nothing about this type of patchers but I think LW Member @shoepatcher knows more. I just dipped my toe into the DURKOPP Class 17 machines and figured that they are amazing and I got mine to ~7mm long stitches. But the DURKOPPS are quite different to the Bradburry but I would love to see a front view of this one. My biggest concern would be if the machine has a functional shuttle / hook and matching bobbins. I´m not sure if other brands have interchangeable shuttles / hooks.

turn it away from you until you feel it will not screw out any further and then simply pull it out to the right. It may feel as if it will not come out - just pull... if not gummed. Its an approx 11.5cm long rod (~13.5cm total length) with a pointy tip. When you put it back shove it in and rotate it until it stops and then push it further in (will have some resistance) and then turn it in further. Do not hammer it!

You can also DIY speed reducers. There are many different versions on the forum. It just require some tinkering. https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+speed+reducer+site:leatherworker.net/forum

No mystery. It depends on what you sew (leather or fabric....) and how experienced you are as a sewer / seamstress. Speed reducers are not a must have but they make things (sewing machines) easy to master speedwise. I have speed reducers on all my 5 sewing machine setups. I still can go from crazy slow (leather or short seams as on box tacks on 1" webbing straps / ~10mm thick f.i.) to quite fast (loooong seams on canvas, sunbrella...) even with the speed reducers. Just a personal preference and IMO it makes the machines more versatile. If you don´t need a SR you don´t need one but I prefer them. Run your machine w/o a SR and if it is too fast change the pulley if still to fast and you need more torque (for thick materials) add a speed reducer.

The "coarse needle plate" allows needles up to #23. I usually do not go over #22 with my Singer 29K71. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82234-needle-plate-medium-coarse-singer-29k-71.html Keep in mind that it is a repair machine and not really a machine for the serious production of leather goods!

maybe the manual helps Rex Chandler 26-188 Singer 16-188 manual.pdf

Videos are blurry and shaky and do not show "the whole scene". Anyway - as far as I can tell you have installed the needle bar and needle holder incorrectly and the needle clamp screw probably blocks the foot when lifting the foot lever. With other words rotate the whole needle bar until the clamp screw faces right. But I only can guess here.

@Icho Just checking. Any progress here? Did you get the parts and have installed them?

This thingy here is the needle deflector on machines with top loading bobbins. I think Singer called them needle guard. There are no other extra needle guides except the needle hole in the feed dog (if you want to consider this as a guide) and the needle hole in the inner foot (if not open to the front). I think that was just misunderstanding (guard... guide...) or saying something but meaning something different (that happens) - I think he meant the needle deflector / needle guard. EDIT: This is an extract from the Singer 111 manual:

Ha - they are in Germany - never heard of them before but worth checking their inventory! Thanks for the link

With needle guide he probably means the needle deflector.

This is a CLAES 233 - German made (in former GDR), parts are rare (feet f.i.) but hook is the same as for the Adler 269 (large hook). Maybe it can use Adler feet but I´m not sure. I have a German language manual for it - send me a PM if interested.

What 29K model is it - 29Kxx? The compete top tension unit is missing (still available) + the front drive shaft with bevel gear (available for 29k71 but I´m sure if tit will work with this hand wheel) but maybe the parts are in the drawer? Ask for a picture of the rear side and check if the long leaf spring is present - except it is a 29K51 then it has a coil spring in the head. Do you have more pictures?

Bad experience with Ebay or the seller on Ebay? That's two different stories. Ebay is not the seller it is just the platform for selling things. If it was me I would order this NOS Singer part. Just 10 bucks incl shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265243181471 I cannot imagine that it will not work However - you are aware that this type of machine came with different style hooks and therefore different bobbin case opener right? Are you sure 267351 is the one you need? Just checking w/o knowing details of your machine.

If it was me I would buy it but me is "Singer Idjit" I don´t know how different the parts are but usually getting Singer spares are rather easy but the machine itself is a rare bird. However - from just looking at the pictures it seems just the tension discs, beehive springs and nuts are missing. But maybe the parts are in the drawer.

I have a manual in German language if you are interested. The machine was manufactured in Wittenberge Germany and is a quite rare bird. This machine AFAIK was only made in Wittenberge and nowhere else in (Singer) World. If it is in good shape and all parts are present and not super expensive I would buy it. It can sew light weight / garment type leather.