Constabulary

Not mine - Just for the records - Left stand post bed machine from GOERICKE, Bielefeld. What a beauty!

https://uwe.store/

probably the small curved leaf spring which holds the bobbin housing in the shuttle frame is worn or the screw that holds the spring in place is loose. Remove the shuttle hook from the machine and swing the bobbin housing aside and the check the spring and screw. Just a guess w/o having seen pictures.

post some pictures please

Looks like a drop feed Pfaff 34 or 134. The 34 has an oscillating hook, 134 has a rotary hook. Machine has reverse. No walking foot.

maybe this video helps - if not send me a PM and I can send you a manual in English language.

I have misread - you mean the shuttle (hook) not the shuttle race. There are large hooks and bobbins but they are not for the 45k. They f.i. came from Adler 204, or 205 and the like. I atm do not have a larger hook on hand but left is a 45K bobbin (approx 20mm dia), right the larger one (approx 24mm dia).

They are the same - if it appears larger then most likely the shuttle race is missing - but we have not seen pictures of your machine. I have a 91 subclass and the difference to the 93 (ex factory) is that the 93 comes with an extra roller foot IIRC.

will this motor available though your German suppliers too. If not feel free to send me one for testing

Looks like a Juki 563 clone. Juki 563 are super reliable workhorse machines and have a super large bobbin / hook. Cannot speak for CHIKON but it at least is made in Taiwan as it seems. We have not seen pictures of your machine so we cannot judge it. Picture often tell more than words.

Experience in therms of fixed or synchronized binder setups are different. I cannot speak for fixed binder position brackets but (1st picture) but I´m using a synchronized binder machine. And the bracket you show in the 2nd picture is governed by the special feed dog in which is a hole and a small "piston" (see red arrow) on the end of the extended left arm of the binder bracket goes into the hole. Thats the how it is governed. It has a spring loaded pivot point on the right and it be lifted and swing aside to easy access the bobbin / hook. The advantage of a synchronized binder is that you can bind smaller radius items cause the needle has always the same and very short distance to the binder. So it depends on what items you are binding but the synchronized binder is always (IMO) an advantage. Not saying other binders will not work. At the end the decision is your which you prefer and what items you are going to bind. But the synchronized version is IMO more flexible. My old and reliable Singer 108w20 has a synchronized binder and I love it. Having the right bracket for the job is one thing . The far more interesting "game" is finding the right binder for the binding material you wan to use! This can drive you nuts cause the binder and the binding material have to play together very well and you do not want much friction between binder and binding material. This is critical especially when using leather tape for binding. You find a lot of information on the binder topic here in the forum - do a quick google search: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=binder+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum%2F The information do not cover the Juki 1341 / Global WF 1575 in particular but the general information here are quite useful. If it was me I would buy the synchronized version but it will require a special feed dog and needle plate and a matching foot set. EDIT: text copied here: https://www.chholderby.com/industrial-binders/ I can´t explain the advantages of a synchronized binder any better. EDIT II: I once owned a Pfaff 345 with a very similar setup as for the Global WF 1575. Maybe some useful general information too - especially the video - see below thread. EDIT III: Since you are in the UK - maybe it´s worth checking with College Sewing - they have a wide range of binders. Not sure if they have the brackets but they have KH sewing equipment in general and they also sell JUKI´s

this hook helps guiding the thread - nothing special just a "thread guiding device". Almost all rotary hooks have this in one or another style.

Without knowing your thread and needle size - I would try a 1 size larger needle

it has the hole in the casting from where you see the stitch length dial so it should a model with 2 push buttons. The 111 with stitch length knob near the hand wheel have 1 button in the bed but no hole. @Burkhardt here is a PDF of an old 111w brochure maybe it helps to figure the subclass (see box below picture). Looks like your machine is from 1940. Singer 111w Class Machine Brochure.PDF

a singer 111w - subclass unknown but since it has no revere it may be 111w155

and WHERE and WHEN will it be available and how much will it cost?

There you go SD 28 Junker & Ruh Outsole stitcher Parts list and manual.pdf

https://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-227R-2

well, it´s not impossible to buy and run American made sewing machines only - you have to look for them, maybe travel, and sometimes have to rebuild them. But they for sure al will be vintage. I for a reason only use vintage Singer sewing machines (made in the US, UK and Germany). But when it comes to certain spare parts China is the only source for spares (at least for me living on the other side of the pond + BREXIT). Some parts are interchangeable with non Chinese Brands (always a big pleasure for me to figure that) like some older Dürkopps and CLAES are based on Singer - even some Pfaffs are using Singer based parts (very few but still)... But thats a different story If you want SEIKO machines look for a SEIKO dealer in the US (scroll down here) https://www.seiko-sewing.co.jp/en/worldwidenetwork/ But I´m not sure if all SEIKO´s are still made in Japan

I´m sure when the machine does not clearly state made in Japan - then it is is not made in Japan. Buy a Dürkopp-Adler and it most likely will be made in the Czech Republic in the Minerva Plant (top Quality BTW). Even some JUKIs come form China I have read somewhere. China not my preferred "source" for goods but as mentioned before - you cannot run away from it. And I bought a lot of CHICOM sewing machine spare parts and have to say the quality in most of the cases was really top - way better that expected for the price.

If I had to "redesign" the logo, I would do away the Est. 2022 (to early as Klara said), I would use stars with peaked tips instead of rounded and I would use a more pronounced, lets say ribbon type banner like this or similar: https://www.pngmart.com/de/image/138917

when looking at the parts list I would say no, not ex factory. If the return spring was a pull up spring it would be easier. But maybe you can drill a hole in the table plate )maybe with a little metal tube inside) on the right side of the machine and attach a wire to the reverse lever and foot pedal - see 2nd picture. I´d make the wire on the reverse lever detachable so you can tilt back the machine when needed. Just an idea.

when your Pfaff is using 134-35 - why not setting up both machines for that needle system? You only have to stock 1 needle system (it´s cheaper on the long view) and don´t have to worry to mix up needles (it happens). BTW College Sewing has 134-35 LR in 180 and 200 https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/needles/groz-beckert-industrial-needles/134-35-groz-beckert-needles/134-35lr-groz-beckert-needles https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/needles/schmetz-industrial-needles/32-10-134-35-schmetz-needles/schmetz-134-35lr-leather-point ARMASTORE in Latvia has 134-35 LR in 180 at a super price for 100 needles: https://armastore.eu/134-35-rtw-lr-singer-needles-pack-of-100 Other than that STRIMA in Poland has 135x16 with DIA tip in 180 and 200: https://de.strima.com/items?query=135x16

I´m pretty sure Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine (CowboyBob) can help you out - see above post. @ Bob my 212G has no spring stop on the TU - I have the curved metal spring stop on the casting.

What machine are you using that you need such a big needle size in 135x16? Are you sure the machine can handle the thread thickness you need for a 180 or 200 needle? Anyway - as an alternative needle try to locate 134-35 needles with leather tip - same shaft size but just s a bit shorter than 135x16. Only thing you have to do is lowering the needle bar.