Constabulary

This machine is a bit different to what I have read in the Class 17 manual (of a later version I guess) so far . At least in terms of how to insert the needle correctly / timing. Usually you shove the needle all the way up in the needle holder tighten the needle holder screw and done. This machine is different. When I took it apart I noticed a very clear mark on the needle bar (very unusual for a patcher). Now that it is almost reassembled again I had to figure how to time the machine. It has an eccentric on the gear box (see earlier post) but it indeed ist not for timing it is for compensating wear on the racks and pinion and that is a great feature! I the hell was not able to figure the timing cause I shoved the needle all the way up (of course). I assumed you can advance or retard the shuttle driver pinion by 1 tooth or so.... but no - did not work. Then yesterday night I went trough my manual collection and hell I found an original manual (German Language) for this machine . Did not even know that I have one and since when - really no clue. Now it is clear what the mark on the needle bar is for. So, you have to bring the needle bar in a position that the mark is leveled with the surface of the top side of the head. Then insert the needle in the needle holder until the needle eye is leveled with the surface of the needle plate. And then the machine is timed right. Unusual but not a bad idea. But you have to know that cause all other patcher machines I ever had (yet) were different to this. Will post more pictures later.

Ha - 2.5K is a lot - you can get the clones of the Mitsubishi PB 810 with reverse for approx 1.8k or less: If you ask me - they are all the same "breed" just setup slightly different (with speed reducer or not and so forth) or with a different name tab on or slightly different casting. https://www.google.com/search?q=810+post+bed+sewing&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi56arjzOn7AhVQ2qQKHXRuAN0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1680&bih=878&dpr=1 https://atlaslevy.3dcartstores.com/Single-Needle-Post-Machine-Mitsubishi-Style-AtlasUSA-AT815_p_4422.html https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-810-post-bed-roller-foot-industrial-sewing-machine.html https://sunny-sewing-machines.myshopify.com/products/thor-gc-810-post-bed-roller-foot-sewing-machine?variant=32410588938380 https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-5110-post-machine/ https://thorsewingmachines.com/index.php/product/thor-gc-810-post-bed-roller-foot-sewing-machine/ The dealer choice is yours. But I would probably look for one as local as possible. Maybe you can even pick up the machine or go to the dealer for testing. Looks like Sunny Sewing Machines is in Texas. Advantage of the 810 model is that certain spare parts are available fairly cheap. I have used some of the parts on my decades old Singer 51w sewing machine and they still work (but thats a different story).

it´s almost fully assembled but still needs work - I´ll post pictures tomorrow.

The 211 is a 212 double needle needle feed. The 68 looks like a button hole machine....

I´m getting closer. Bobbin winder and head almost done...

Really? When I check google I find this for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/402349074068

alright - so black it will be Just primed the machine casting and some parts.... More pics in the coming days...

Another ex clutch motor upcylcling thingy. This is the flange of a MORETTI clutch motor. It has two ZZ ball bearings with 15mm inner diameter so it works great for building a speed reducer. Not that I need another speed reducer but why not keeping it for a future project. Could come handy one day. Maybe for a box type speed reducer or for mounting it directly onto a stand. I wanted to cut cut it squared but ran out of cutting discs.

Glenn, yet most parts were just dirty but not rusted. Dried oil + dust sometimes looks like rust. The parts turned out really nice! I´m not sure about the color for the casting. I have green in mind or just black as it was.

Some basic info. From just looking at the machine it seems to be a Mitsubishi Clone of the Singer 212G140. A double needle machine with drop feed + needle feed and no reverse.

Head is apart EDIT: cannot rotate the pics I shot with my cellphone as it seems

105 is the predecessor of the 205. The subclass 64 on both are drop feed + needle feed - no walking foot

Some say they breake the bank at $1K some at $1/2K already and some at $2K or $3K... it depends on how much play money you have (or don´t have) for your hobby. Same with medium and heavy work - it depends from what kind of work you come and what you want to do now. If you have sewn garments and curtains (just as an example) then tent canvas will be heavy duty for you if you come from parachute harness sewing or holster sewing then tent canvas will be rather light duty... (looking at you machine list I know you have not sewn parachute harnesses ) Upgrading your machines is partially possible - but depend on how they are set up now. Speed reducer and servo motor are upgrades but will probably not take them where you want them cause the machine have their limits and all of them are just "plain" drop feed machines and rather light duty machines (but again it depends on the view / from what work you come and what you want to do now). kgg mentioned some good machines but we do not know what kind of work you have or what products you want to make. A basic point is what total thickness (not single layers) of material do you want to sew. Used machines are probably an option too. I bought all my machines used (see my signature) cause I do not have the output that would justify new big $$ machines (the breaking the bank thing - you know ). There is a pined thread of how to find a leather sewing machine - maybe that helps you.

Sometimes it helps lowering the needle bar just a tiny bit. Also rotating the needle a few degrees toward the took tip could help. It also happens that the hook is set to far away from the needle. In that case you have to move the hook saddle closer to the needle. Just a guess w/o knowing your machine

I have speed reducers on all my machine stands, most 3:1 ratio. But a more powerful motor with 750W for sure will make a fifference as well. Speed reducer can be DIY as well - some pictures from what was posted here in the forum: https://www.google.com/search?q=DIY+speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjLq5a_8br7AhXROewKHfAhCeMQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=DIY+speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1DKDVi3GGDWJmgAcAB4AIABuAGIAd8EkgEDMS40mAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=DiJ5Y8vsDdHzsAfww6SYDg&bih=878&biw=1680

The use for darning may come from an Adler 30 manual but that basically is the very same. I do not have a darning device but IIRC WIZ has a daring device on is 29K patcher.

The one that is missing is not really necessary for normal sewing. I use mine when winding bobbins but for nothing else. IIRC manual says the lower tension unit is for sewing with waxed thread or darning (darning requires an extra device) but IMO it makes no difference. Anyway I would install one just to have the machine complete f.i. in case of selling it. A missing part is a missing part...

hard to tell from the pic but looks like a pre wound bobbin. New metal bobbins have parts number 8604 and are cheap and available almost everywhere

Sounds like a timing issue. I would check the needle hook timing and (most likely) lower the needle bar if necessary. Also make sure the needle scarf is facing toward the hook and needle (as well as the whole machine) is threaded correctly. When the bottom thread is flat you either have a tension issue or a too small needle size or a too thick thread. This chart will help to find the right needle size / thread size combination: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Here s a Singer 18 manual. On page 13 (last page) you find instructions for adjusting the needle bar: Singer 18 Manual.pdf This Seiko TF-6 manual should give you some instructions that will work for the Singer 18-3 as well: Seiko TE TF-6, -6B Instruction Manual.pdf

more parts to clean (bobbin winder and other bits). Disassembling the bobbin winder was a little tricky. I feared to break something - fortunately I did not. Lots a tiny bits n screws...

some cleaned parts Interestingly most of the bigger parts are marked with the last 3 digits of the machines serial number.

brownish-bronze - kind of.... no matter what it will never be like the original. I´m aware of that. I only can try to get close. I will not try dozens of shades but will try to find something with an antique touch... or so...

Working on two ends - I started cleaning the deer relief... I hope I´m artist enough to make it look good again

First parts I cleaned are the gear box components and figured a nice feature. The very large pinion (23mm diameter) is held by an eccentric screw. First guess was it is for timing (well it may have a small influence but I don´t think it is supposed to adjust the timing) but as far as I figured (will know more when reassembled) it is for compensating wear on rack and pinion. Why do I think so? Because the further you turn the screw (left or right) the more it pushes the rack against the gear box wall but does not advance the rack much. Lucky circumstance - the rack and pinion are in good condition!

It´s apart and now the fun begins. A lot of parts are literally covered with a crust of dirt and oil. That usually is not as bad as it looks cause the parts are kinda "protected" - but I will see... Cooking "patcher casting soup" @ 8amps in the electrolysis tub - yummy! Not bad for the 1st run but it needs some more.... Figured the Dürkopp paint is a lot tougher than the Singer paint (as on a 29K).