Constabulary

This is a CLAES 233 - German made (in former GDR), parts are rare (feet f.i.) but hook is the same as for the Adler 269 (large hook). Maybe it can use Adler feet but I´m not sure. I have a German language manual for it - send me a PM if interested.

What 29K model is it - 29Kxx? The compete top tension unit is missing (still available) + the front drive shaft with bevel gear (available for 29k71 but I´m sure if tit will work with this hand wheel) but maybe the parts are in the drawer? Ask for a picture of the rear side and check if the long leaf spring is present - except it is a 29K51 then it has a coil spring in the head. Do you have more pictures?

Bad experience with Ebay or the seller on Ebay? That's two different stories. Ebay is not the seller it is just the platform for selling things. If it was me I would order this NOS Singer part. Just 10 bucks incl shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265243181471 I cannot imagine that it will not work However - you are aware that this type of machine came with different style hooks and therefore different bobbin case opener right? Are you sure 267351 is the one you need? Just checking w/o knowing details of your machine.

If it was me I would buy it but me is "Singer Idjit" I don´t know how different the parts are but usually getting Singer spares are rather easy but the machine itself is a rare bird. However - from just looking at the pictures it seems just the tension discs, beehive springs and nuts are missing. But maybe the parts are in the drawer.

I have a manual in German language if you are interested. The machine was manufactured in Wittenberge Germany and is a quite rare bird. This machine AFAIK was only made in Wittenberge and nowhere else in (Singer) World. If it is in good shape and all parts are present and not super expensive I would buy it. It can sew light weight / garment type leather.

Right side of the picture looks like a french seam and top and bottom thread appear to be of a different color. I´m not sure but I would say this was done with at least 2 machines. One double needle machine (with 1/4" gauge set I guess) and then a serger or fur sewing machine for reinforcing the inside seam. But I´m really not sure.

check your emails - it´s on the way.

Are you sure you are using the right needle? The 30-7 is using a longer needle than most other Adler 30 or Singer 29K patchers. The needle system for the Adler 30-7 / 30-70 is 332L. The L in this case means LONG. I have a Adler 30 mechanics manual but file is too big to upload here so send me a PM with your email address

I have overlooked this

seems to be available https://uwe.store/collections/featured-items/products/ut341-flatbed-for-juki-ls-341-class-machines Could be IP geoblocking if you can´t see the shop.

Just for the records - what shank diameter has 126x11? I have not found any data on 126x11.

I don´t know if there is anything special on a 111w154 but if 126x11 has the same shank diameter as 135x17 you only have to adjust the needle bar height and you do not need a new needle bar. EDIT: This guy here has a 111w154 as well and says at sec 0:26 he is using 135x17 so it should not be a problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dS_tfBNN_s

Yeah, I´m really not into any kind of domestic sewing machines (not at all) but just recently I came across this post coincidentally... https://naehfabrik.forumprofi.de/t11737f114-Anker-RZ-Automatic.html and worded if this kind of decorative sewing machine stitching (done here with an ANKER RZ) would not be interesting for thin leather projects like watch straps or so. Maybe someone is doing this already but I haven´t seen this yet. I´m just curious

Some years ago I was in about the same situation when I was hunting for a Singer 34K NB: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/ The REX here is a clone of the Singer 16-188. NB in the Class 16-188 parts list is # 4264 so this should work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292096957975 You may find it from other dealers too. EDIT: And don`t forget the needle bar clamp. I would also order some needle plate screws and 1 or 2 new check springs or a complete tension unit, 1 or 2 bobbin cases and a new CB hook just to have spares on hand when needed. The parts are not really expensive.

You mean the top shaft? Then no cause you have a pinned cam on either side of the shaft. If it causes mechanical issues (but I do not think so) I would add a very thin washer but removing one of the cams (in worst case) can cause more issues cause the pins are tapered and sometimes they are super tight.

@RC65 Yeees, weeeeeelll.... I heard of those people I have a 212G141 as well, I´m not using it much but it is good to have. I converted my into a split needle machine. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80209-singer-212-112-double-needle-converting-into-split-needle/

Slow running machines with a "rather simple" mechanical system can use heavier oil IMO. It will not kill the machine. I would not use heavier oil on domestic sewing machines but patchers with their big cams, rollers racks and pinions are tough! Some folks even put grease on the cams and it will not hurt but will be messy with the years. Sticky grease can make the machines run a bit more silent and sometimes compensates wear on parts.

To be honest - for 40 bucks I would buy this machine in a heartbeat. You do not need a treadle to run it. The short arm patchers are great for mounting on a board and hand crank them. It seems to be a 29K51 and the outer condition seems to be very good. Patchers are very versatile (I have the later 29K71) but as WIZ said they are not really machines for producing things. Anyway - great useful machines especially at that price. Just from the picture looks like the nuts for the tension units are missing (still available) and I´m not sure about the bobbin winder. The critical parts on this machine are the pinions in the gear box, they are special (fine teeth) and they are obsolete but considering the outer condition I would assume the pinions are still good cause the machine does not show much outer wear. If it was me I would buy it.

"Old Singers" can means everything and nothing . Singer made hundreds of different industrial and domestic machines and made dozens of leather sewing machines for different kind of leather work. I`m using vintage Singer sewing machines only (nothing else). So it depends on what kind of leather products you want to make and what Singer sewing machine models you are talking about. If you mean the small domestic machine with treadle base - well you may be able to sew some garment type leather with them with thin thread but sewing belts, boots, holsters or bridles is not possible. Maybe this thread helps to narrow downs what type of machine could suit your needs

Keep in mind that the 29-4 are more than 100 yrs old and parts can be worn or even worn off. Not sure if I got you right but I´d check it you have some sideways play on the top shaft. If there is play and you have a load change on the inner cam (the one on the top shaft you see through the window on the rear) you may hear a clacking sound (most likely its the cam pulley banging slightly against the casting). First thing I would try is oiling all the cams and rollers and the shaft bushings with an heavier oil like motor oil f.i..

I´d look for a Pfaff double needle post bed machine manual. F.i. Pfaff 1294 - scroll down here for a instruction manual download link: https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/post-bed/pfaff-1294

I can´t see anything wrong in the pictures. But to me the tension spring on the lower tension unit looks kinda weak (not sure though). See picture of my tension unit. The wire of the beehive spring on my tension unit is approx 1.8mm in diameter (have to check to be sure). All guessing but maybe worth checking: Are you wrapping the thread around the tension pulley / wheel? Meaning thread comes from the top tension then wrap completely it around the pulley? This is from a GA-5 Manual but the circled picture shows it quite good. Are you sure all parts of the lower tension unit are present? I looks like this: Also - please check the 2 discs / washers in the tension. They should have a flat side in the center hole. That ensures they do not rotate when the pulley spins. If the flat side it rounded (happens with the time) and they rotate you have less friction between the components and that can cause less tension on the thread. See picture:

Is it a needle feed machine? How do the bobbins look like? What is the max. stitch length and max. foot lift? I would like to see a video how this thing works!!!!

All pins on this machine are tapered. This pin would go out back to front just as the large pin on the lever arm. The 2 mentioned pins usually go out with a few gentle hammer strikes. There is nothing on this machine that requires drilling or grinding for removing / replacing parts. Ask Bob if he has a new pin. Parts # is 8589 BTW - in one of your earlier threads on this machine KGG linked a manual with parts list with good part diagrams for the 29K7x series which is not the exact same machine but it is a very good manual and the majority of parts remained the same (just minor differences).

FEDEX did the packaging or the sender? Packaging usually is up to the sender. Packing up sewing machines is often underestimated. It requires a serious good packaging and a lot more than just a heavy carton and some foam flakes or bubble foil. It´s easy to blame the shipping Co. but from my experience 99% of the time the mistake is in the poor packaging which (as I said) is often underestimated. Heavy and bulky items like sewing machine require a different packaging than f.i. a cell phone or an electric drill. Logistics today is not the that postman carries 1 package from A to B and takes care of it all the time. Shipping starts with proper packaging and that is up to the sender. Proper packaging require that a box can be dropped from 1 meter (at least) without damaging the goods inside the box (some Co. even say 2 meters afaik).... I could continue. BTW - I do not work for any shipping co but I have shipped packages around the world in all possible sizes and weights. Most likely the top shaft is bent. You can try to bend it back but you most likely will never be 100% straight again. You could ask a professional to do that but it most likely will costs more than the machine (incl. disassembling and reassembling, timing...) The screw on the end of the shaft is for adjusting the horizontal play and the further you turn it it the more the hand wheel pushes against the machine casting. So remove that screw and remove the 2 set screws and if the hand wheel is seized / gummed on the shaft you may need a larger gear puller for removing the hand wheel.