Constabulary

a BUSMC #6 HM hoarder you are

from the linked machines I would only buy the 211 - looks like a 211U (made in Japan = good quality) - I think it could have the large bobbin of the Juki 563 and the like but without knowing the subclass I only can guess (maybe a 211U566A?) Ask for a pictures of the front side - on the right side of the machine the class 211 and subclass numbers should be marked. On some of the 211U you can tweak the forward stitch length to approx 8mm but reverse is shorter then. Easy task they have a locked screws for this on the bottom side (its mentioned in the manual how this works). The shown machine also has a thread oilier and a built in bobbin winder. If it is a large bobbin machine 350 GBP sounds very reasonable. You may upgrade it with a speed reducer and servo motor for more slow start comfort and more torque. Thats what most leather workers do with this class of machines. I would buy it - IMO adverts for this type of machine usually do not last long at this price. EDIT: could be this one:

have you tightened the set screw that hold the long bushing in place? Maybe try loosening it, then shove the foot bar up, leave it up and the tighten the screw again. Know what I mean? The foot bar would line up the top and bottom bushing - maybe... wild guess but worth trying.

I have no 26 / 341 clone but triple feed machines are pretty much the same. What I would try is reducing the main foot pressure as much as possible. You just need enough foot pressure that the needle is not lifting up the material when is rising. That is caused by friction between leather and needle. Its depends on how thick you sew - the thicker the material the more foot pressure you need to work against the friction and vice versa. Furthermore I would reduce the walking foot height as much as possible. Why? Cause my theory is that the higher the outer foot lifts the more it works against the foot pressure spring and the more pressure you have on the inner (needle) foot. Of course when you have to walk over heights you may need more foot lift but when sewing flat it may reduce the foot marks. Let the foot lift maybe 2mm above the material when sewing. Just my thoughts...

Pic 2: pencil points to a hinge point of the thread lever - there should be a screw inside the hole. below your pencil 2 screws are missing that hold the bar 97730 in place but I guess you removed them, right? EDIT: answered the screw question my self (pic 1)

I´m not the big tutorial to be honest guy. I even forgot to take pictures of the cleaned parts cause I do this and that then and now... and when I´m in work (dirty fingers) mode I seldom grab the camera. I have it assembled already - almost. But the 45K is so simple you almost cant do anything wrong when you have some mechanics experience. Some screws are critical cause they are bit hard to reach and you need the right blade screw drivers otherwise you may damage the slits.

at your 1st picture the piece for the foot lift arm is missing - mine is missing too Will post a part link in a few minutes... EDIT: This thing here: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1399-97722-foot-lift-lever-link-seiko.html a small round bar from the tip of the foot lift arm goes into the oblong oval - if you know what I mean. I will compare the other picture with my machine - not sure atm... later...

not exactly sure where and when it get stuck but if the outer foot is in the shown position Id loosen the 2 screws and lower the foot bar.

reg. foot lift: if it is the outer foot that is not lifting check this link - maybe its the same problem: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/100802-something-has-to-be-missing/ reg. thread braking: make sure the bobbin case opener is properly adjusted and the thread keeps not hanging on it maybe you can shoot a video and post it here (Youtube link) and show the issues so we can visualize it better.

132K6 are all jump foot machines (no driven walking foot as on 441 and the like). Yes, foot bar looks a bit bent to the right. First Aid could be a washer / shim between outer foot and foot bar to bring it a bit further tot he left. However the 2 feet kinda look like they did not come as a set and probably do not perfectly match (I guess). The 10 most likely was an internal factory / plant machine number.

I have 132K6 and it sews leather just as good as my 45D91 (45K) but it depends on the nature of the product you want to produce. Sewing plain leather is one thing - producing a specific leather good is another thing. The 132K10 is a plain drop feed machine (like Singer 45K1) with no reverse but it has super large capacity bobbin rotary hook. The feed dog may mark the leather on the bottom side (depends on what leather you want to sew and the foot pressure you have adjusted - the less the better) but that IMO is no serious issue cause a lot of other sewing machines mark leather well. Question is if that is a problem for your product or not - for me it is not but thats maybe just me. Ex factory the 132K10 did not come with roller foot but can be set up with one (if you find one - its the same as for the 45K ). if it already has a roller foot - even better - they are hard to find! The machine is using the same presser feet as the Singer 45K / GA5-1 / CB105 / CB 2500 and the like. Parts are usually no problem. The machine shares parts with the more modern machines like Mitsubishi DY-253 and Seiko SK-2. Best bet - test sew it and decide whether this machine suits your requirements or not. If the motor is a clutch motor you can replace with with a servo and maybe add a speed reducer. When you test the machine make sure you can change the stitch length and the notches on the stitch length adjuster are NO worn. If they are worn you may have a hard time holding the lock lever (front right side) in place when changing the stitch length (push lock lever and turn hand wheel). Hope this helps.

If you have the space its never wrong to have a backup machine even when it is a lighter duty machine. Beside of that I personally prefer to work on flat bead machines - when ever possible.

Adler 30-10 - but thread take up lever adjuster is not original. Looks lie the latest model of the 30-10. When you peel off the Mason sticker you probably find an adler lettering

Loooong ago I asked if someone has used this foot set, not much response back then. I always wanted to buy them for my 111G156 - never did. But I have this foot set on my watch list for quite a while. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80511-buckle-foot-for-singer-111-type-machiens-consew-seiko-juki/

wire -> tire it is

Small update: Upgraded the badly bubba`ed bobbin winder (proper thumb nut replaced the drawer knob, eccentric finished and bobbin holder axle replaced - still have to attach the wire) Also Finished the face plate - tension units needed several OEM parts.

this may help - you have that same problem on all kind of triple feed machines. Screws may be slightly different but solution often is the same:

They wont? Why? Whats different? I don´t think that is an significant "notable optical disturbance" when you look at the shoes. If you mean the "slanted" stitch seams well you can use LR or LL needles if the seam appearance matters but most seams I have seen on shoes are just straight. There are fat bed machine like the 110w / 110K for sewing shoe uppers too but they did not come as left stands afaik And on my end I see more left stand class 18 than right stand class 17 (same with Pfaff equivalents) if they were for left and right shoes you at least would see the same amount of class 17 - or not? So far I see no plausible reason where I would say - YES thats why! But maybe thats just me.

Broke - I guess. You should have a serious business plan and know the market very well when you make big investments (unless you are a wealthy hobbyist). You sometime see people buying big leather machines like the 441 clones and a few month later you see the same people selling them - sure for different reasons (health, life has changed, wrong hobby...) but often cause the business is not as profitable as it should. I would love to own a bar tacker but I cannot justify the investment (at least in a new one) cause it never would pay off (hobbyist, but not wealthy ). So for the few bar tacks I do a ZZ machines works kinda okay. Maybe one days a proper and affordable bar tacker crosses my way.

Questions remains - why only cylinder arm machines for the leather trade (at least thats how it looks like) . I´m sure the were more seamstress in the manufacturing of clothing left handed than seamstress in the manufacturing of leather good - or not? I would expect to see machines like the 31K as left stand too or other machines of this class or even the 111 class but there were none as a it seems. Thats why I somehow doubt these machines (mainly cylinder arm) were exclusively made for seamstress with a left dominant hand. Of course I only can guess... Dürkopp 15 was a left stand machine too but also cylinder arm and for sewing leather.

I´m just about restoring a left stand Singer 145k - it´s first left stand machine I ever have touched. So question arises - what (really) is the purpose of a left stand machine? And why only cylinder arm machines for the leather trade? Cause almost every left stand I know of are of the same class with long beak shuttle like Singer 18, Seiko TF-6, Pfaff 27, Pfaff 24, Adler 49. My Singer 145K1 seems to be a rare exception and of a much heavier class. Pfaff made some other left stand cylinder arm machines of the 335 or 345 class IIRC. So why no flat bed machines, post bed machines, patchers or even skiving machine? Well, maybe there are a few - I do not know. Story goes - the left stand machines are for left hand operators. Are they? I don´t think so - but also do not know for sure! What does a left hand sewing machine operator do differently? Lifting the foot lever with the other hand - maybe? Is that all? Well I´m a right hand op. and lift the feet on my machines with the left and sometimes even with the right hand. So do left hand op. lift the foot with the right hand? Is that the only purpose and worth the time and money for "inventing" left stand machines and only a few of approx the same class? So basically it does not matter which hand you use for lifting (more or less a habit) the foot and what when the left stand machine is set up with a foot lift pedal? So I really would like to understand what the purpose - or advantage - of a left stand machine is? So from my point of view (at the moment) it seems it does not make a difference. If someone knows other left stand sewing machines feel free to post them - I´m really curios.

Singer 29K shuttles (small and large) are interchangeable with the Adler shuttles and yes you can use 135x17 / 135x16 needles in 29K and 30-1 - so do I in my 29K71.

indeed interesting - well that's typical mass production. We all know the advantage of having different / multiple machines / tools for specific jobs. Question is if the investment in more machines / tools pays off and that depends on the output and / or how high (or low) your investment was and who is servicing the machines (you, an in house mechanic or an external Co.).

Your lifting lever should look like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162714485633 Regarding the Video: The outer foot is pushed up when the inner foot makes contact with the needle plate and moves back until it lifts again and then the outer foot goes down again. In your video you have not installed the inner foot so the outer foot cannot lift.

Thats what I always say