Constabulary

You are welcome - so what did the trick finally? 332 is too short - 657 is the same as system 88 but with a different tip but that does not matter really. 332 LONG is as long as the 88 but has different shaft diameter but they may work if the hole in the needle bar is wide enough. As you figured - these ancient patchers can be challenging So the 2 options are System 88 or 332 LONG - I would go with 88. You can get them from Shoe System Plus https://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Claes-Model-30-Needles-10-per-pack_p_353.html

I always chose price + shipping: Lowest First But you can still find lower offers down the list f.i. when the listing has multiple variants like sizes (screws for instance). BTW - Are you aware of "Dynamic Pricing"? Sometimes prices on certain online marketplaces or web shops can be different depending on times, days (weekends vs. Mondays or in advance of holidays) or what device (lets say old Win 7 PC vs. latest Apple Phone) you choose for shopping. And - believe it or not Ebay is often cheaper than Amazon. I do not recall when I bought on Amazon the last time. I often compare prices before buying and my experience is that Ebay is cheaper most of the times - sometime other web shops but seldom Amazon. May depends on the products but thats my experience. Just recently - I needed a capacitor for my air compressor. Ebay was cheaper and fun fact - when I looked the sellers other listings (German Seller) I found the same capacitor listed in a different country (Ebay Spain) and it was 1.65€ cheaper than on Ebay.de. Sure not a big amount of money but still 30% cheaper @ 5.50€ vs. 3.85€ - but sipping was a little more - but still. And I figured Chinese sewing machine parts are often cheaper on Ebay.com than on Ebay.de from the same seller (has multiple accounts) that saved me ~12€ recently. I´m not counting pennies but over the time you can safe some good $ and buy other things.

maybe for some Flintstone style bikinis

oooouh - too bad!

Not sure what you want to do first. In case you want to check my 1st suggestion then you have to take the machine head off the stand (mounted with 3 screws) and tilt the machine to have access to the rack. ==== The cam is held on the top shaft by 2 large square head set screws - you see both in your pictures. Make your you mark the position of the parts you move in case you have to reverse the adjustments. Also make sure you know at what point the loop is formed. Watch the cycle of the needle bar (see Video from 9:20 onward). The needle rises from bottom dead center a little bit, then stops and goes down again a little bit then rises again... Make sure you find the right point where the hook grabs the thread... Again I only can guess cause I do not know your machine - you are on your own when you turn screws and make adjustments. Keep that in mind! My experience with this machine is very limited but I have restored several other pachter machines but only once a Durkopp 18.

I´m pretty sure one or more cams on your machine are not correctly installed. The Adler 30 and Singer 29K patchers are very simple machines there is not much that can go wrong. I would check the position cams. EDIT: Bob was faster Check your other Adler 30-1 thread. I mentioned the cams there already. Everything on this machine is controlled by 3 cams, one controls the arm lever / needle bar, one controls the shuttle driver / timing and one the foot lift / feeding. So you can be sure the major problem on your machine is one ore more incorrectly installed cams.

Would not repaint it either but I repainted machines that others wont repaint as well so do not listen to me In case of reselling (now or later) original painted machines usually bring more than "obviously refurbished" ones or machines with a "personal touch". Holy smokes are you well organized. I usually put all parts in one bin and go from there

I have not much experience with Dürkopp 18 I just restored one once and never really touched one again. So I only can tell you what I would TRY in your case (not knowing details or the overall condition of your machine). There is a rack with a roller and with a long squared cutout coming down from the big cam on the rear (see end of my video) it is attached to the long rack with the thread hook that goes from back to front in the bottom arm. Maybe you can try to "reposition" it a little bit. I unfortunately do not recall enough of this machine to give you many advice. Another option could be that you bring the hook to it´s foremost position where is is supposed to grab the thread loop. Then loosen the set screws on the big cam in the rear. Then hold the cam with your hand (if not seized) or a pipe wrench or pliers (be careful - do no damage the cam track) and rotate the hand wheel until the "timing is right". As far as I recall the cam was not pinned. I know this is not very precise but there just too little information about this machine. I recall that I had to reposition the cam that controls the thread lever a little bit on my machine but that was trial and error too I hope this help or at least gives you some ideas. Maybe LW member SHOEPATCHER knows more.

Maybe worth checking Renia Aquilim 316 or Aquilim SG

Your needle thread is forming no loop because it is too short and is handing down You have to hold your thread tail when the needle goes down just as on any other sewing machine when pulling up the bottom thread. Your needle hook timing seems to be off as well. I shot this Video back when I restored a Dürkopp 18 some years a go (no longer own it). At min 3:35 you see how to pull up the thread. You may notice the difference to yours in terms of when the hook is at the needle for catching the thread loop. The picture of your machine is very small so it´s hard to see details. I´m not sure but is the spring on the thread lever missing?

maybe worth checking with Keystone Sewing in PA but seems their website is down (or has a bad SSL certificate) - are they still in business after Gregg passed away?

yes!

I have this motor mount for quite a while and I wanted to junk it but figured it could be a mount for a speed reducer. Shaft is 15mm. Holes on the mount are 16mm but I found a thin wall 16x15 tube in the scrap box. Works for me. Step pulley is from another machine and just put on for testing. Motor mounts for sure differ. Just as and idea...

I meant the bits on the 2nd pictures.

The serial number is the key for figuring the date, maybe this helps: https://ismacs.net/pfaff/pfaff_manufacture_dates.html Some of the parts do not belong to your machine obviously.

first picture looks like a Singer 45w of some kind - whats stamped on the oval silver tag? EDIT: Maybe 45w53 or similar - just look up some other sub classes maybe you find the right one https://www.manualslib.com/manual/154111/Singer-45w53.html?page=4#manual EDIT II: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364556/Singer-45w.html?page=2#manual

Just replied your PM and just saw you post here. Yes, the curved spring is putting a little bit pressure on the bevel edge of the washer - so your problem then is the missing spring

its a super fast clutch motor - you will not have fun with it - get rid of it - buy a servo Singer 211G and 211U had similar dipsticks - maybe worth checking parts lists. I think Singer called them oil gauge.

Your gearbox is set up correctly . But I´m not sure if there isn't missing a screw that hold the pinion on the shuttle driver - or is the screw head sheared off or is it just covered with dirt? See picture below. Sometimes when people take apart Singer 29K or Adler 30 patchers they put on the cam pulley the wrong way meaning rotated by 180°. When the cam is rotated by 180° you will never get the timing right. But I only can guess here cause I´m not in front of your machine.

have you adjusted the cam? See red arrow in my picture.

w/o knowing your machine and w/o knowing what in particular you did or have tried so far or what YT video you have watched... there is a cam with a wing nut on the rear, when you loosen the wing nut and shove it in the upper position an tighten it again you get more foot lift. If it does not help loosen the two screws in one of the reed circles (dose not matter which) then rotate the hand wheel until the inner foot and the needle tip arrive at the throat plate level at the same time then tighten the screws. hope this helps.

Some of my current setups: My Singer 45D91 Cylinder arm sewing machine setup: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72789-singer-45d91-restoration/?tab=comments#comment-552471 My Singer 108w20 Binder Setup. Head mounted on a base plate so I can switch the head with my 29K71 patcher which has the same base plate mounted so one stand for 2 machines. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79339-singer-108w20-my-new-binder-setup/ My Singer 51w Post bed machine setup which also is used with 107w & 143w flat bed machine (switch head and drive belt - and ready to go) https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/89568-singer-51w-post-bed-143w-107w-flat-bed-setup-on-cut-down-singer-stand/

maybe safety clutch triggered - if it has one.

DOT, CS Osborne or Stimpson with brass "core" DOT also has a PULL THE DOT line which is much stronger that the plain ring snaps nut not very fashionable so depends on the purpose.

Maybe try a Teflon foot or roller foot (both dirt cheap). You seem to sew the material "unguided" (no hands on the material) have you tried "spreading the light fabric with thumb and fingers a little bit?