Constabulary

not sure if Singer 16 NB are still available - if not look for one from a different model with same diameter and similar length or longer length. I think a Singer 31 / 31K bar should work - maybe you have to shorten it. If you order a 31K bar (or similar) make sure you buy the needle holder with it. I replaced a NB on a 34K with a Singer 17 NB a few years ago. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/

not possible - when you look at the toothed presser foot and understand how the machine is feeding the material you will notice why.

why do you want to order sewing thread overseas? Ya have no thread in down under?

bending the hook tip is never a good idea. It may break and it does not solve the real problem. shifting the hook toward the needle usually requires loosening the bevel gear on the horizontal drive shaft and moving the hook saddle toward the needles. Should be approx the same as mentioned in the 227 manual. I`m not sure but IIRC the 345 hook saddle is held by 1 or 2 screws from the left or right side (really not sure)

I once owned a 345 but do not recall all details. So I would probably look into a Consew 227R manual. I´m sure you will find a lot of similarities. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1231775/Consew-223.html#product-227

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THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS!!! Very helpful!!! I have my 307G2 for some years already but it is the only machine that never required any major adjustments. So you really dived into it and explained it very well. Thanks a lot for sharing this!!! Maybe a moderator can upload the pictures directly into the above thread so they are safe for the future

Maybe use use the cap part as bottom stud. Know what I mean? Other than that DOT makes this cap: https://www.dotfasteners.com/durabletm-caps-2267.html

I´m pretty sure I have the 453 screw but I have to dig for it. I also have an OEM Singer shuttle. Shipping from Germany to France is not crazy expensive. Send me a PM if interested.

are you using a leather needle instead round point - maybe?

$100 for both? So $50 each? Go back and buy the 2nd one too - asap!

The Adler 220 and SEIKO JW8BL are similar machines and they share parts with the Singer 144 / 145 - you can check for parts f.i. on the College Sewing website. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk But I´m sure you will find dealers for these parts in the US as well but the CS website gives you a good idea how much conversion parts would cost.

check this thread - only difference is that the K10 has a roller foot (if in original setup) so the manual should work for you.

Ha - way cool! So having too much top tension now is a kind of art work. Very impressive - things like that would never come to my mind. THAT GUY IS A GENIUS!

looks good

I don´t think new motor replacements are available anymore. Maybe check with some old school sewing machine dealers they may have some 236´s on their shelves for parts.

I don´t think you can when your knot is properly balanced in the material and you are using the same thread and needle in either machine. A 301 stitch is a 301 stitch. A singer 111 stitch line will look the same as a Pfaff 145 or Adler 67 stitch line for the same reasons. So when someone says this or that machine makes a beautiful stitch... - hell yeah - why should it make an ugly stitch? Proper machine adjustment and the choice of thread and needle and the material you are sewing are the key factors for a good looking stitch line. Machine poorly adjusted or the wrong needle or thread combination for the chosen material can make a stitch look ugly but not the machine you are using - as long as it is properly adjusted / set up for what you want to sew.

What is too low? Regarding markings on leather - since the 239 has 2 foot pressure springs I´t try to remove either the long leaf spring on the rear or the one with the screw cap. Trial and error.

long arm machines had longer drawers than the short arm machines IIRC.

I have no idea what you did but just from the pictures, Id first remove the screw cap for foot pressure adjuster (# 223112) or the outer foot, then loosen the 2 clamps screw on the outer foot bar (#078112, #460113). Remove leaf spring on the rear if necessary. Then put back on the outer foot. Then tighten the 2 clamp screws and put back on the screw cap. That at least should bring your feet back in a "quite normal position" - I guess cause do not know what exactly you did (what screws you gave turned).

Huh - to be honest I haven´t seen this before - looks different to what I have seen so far. I do not think it is a 45K58. Maybe JIMI knows more - he is the 45k whisperer

To be honest I do not think the shuttle is the problem. Your shuttle really looks good. The machine seems to be down graded for what ever reason. I think the machine is (or was) a 45K58. Please post a picture from the left side. I think parts are missing.

Your shuttle is a NÄHMATAG shuttle made in Germany. NÄHMATAG made quality after market parts but to OEM Specs for all kind of sewing machines. And I believe they back then made the OEM shuttles for the Singer factory in Wittenberge too. I have used a lot of different shuttles from various makers (but no Chinese) in my 45D and several different machines of the same class (CLAES, Adler....). To be honest I never had issues with any shuttle. ATM I run an Adler closed frame shuttle in my 45D. I´m not sure but is it possible that you insert the needle with the scarf to the left? The needle scarf has to face right / to the side where the hook catches the thread loop. Also check the needle hook timing / height of needle bar. You machine is missing the blade spring on the rear side and some other parts for controlling the jump foot as it seems. EDIT: just noticed the plain long shaft foot on the foot bar so seems the jump foot mechanism has been removed. EDIT II: Can you post a picture from the left side of your machine - I´m not sure but looks like the complete lower tension unit is missing. That could be part of your issues.

AFAIK "the original Singer" compound feed is drop feed + needle feed only (commonly called needle feed). And the addition of the alternating presser feet makes it the so called triple feed. But Singer had no term for this combination - in manuals and parts lists usually you read "compound feed with alternating presser" or similar. Let me check my files.... I think certain terms sometimes got mixed up. A walking foot can mean everything where a foot is feeding the material. Some say 29K are walking toot, some say a jump foot machine (like 132K6) is walking foot.... and so forth. I think triple feed is the more accurate term for top, bottom and needle feed machines. EDIT: This is what I meant Singer 111w Class Machine Brochure_compressed.pdf

Well - a #24, #25 needle is IMO out of the comfort zone of a light duty leather machine like the class 17. IMO #22 is the max needle size for a machine of this type. Yes, I know the manual says up to #25 but still. The very small spools do not hold much of the thick thread anyway, not talking about higher foot pressure you may need for a #25 needle. my 2 cents EDIT: Seiko still makes clones of the Singer class 17 (their model is TE-6) and they recommend needles up to #19. Beside of that - IIRC the class 17 shuttle runs in a race like the CB kooks and I do not think you can move the race further the to the right to allow a larger needle.