Constabulary

finally.... here is mine. I restored it a few years ago (2 or 3 or so) but never really finished it , still missing some pulleys. Has collected quite some dust meanwhile. Looks very similar - Mine is a Model W (what ever that means)

And college sewing do not have it? I can look in my bins maybe I have one. But I´m in Germany. EDIT: Answered it myself - out of stock https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/068150910-hook-gib-adler-genuine.html EDIT II: I don´t have it - sorry

I honestly never expected that this thing will ever sew again! Congratulations! Assuming needle too far away from hook of needle bar set too high.

hm - sorry - I probably mixed up something. But further down in the parts list you find the needle guard 91-018-481-05 also listed for the 545. So it may depend on what hook gib you have - Hook gib seems to be the different and maybe therefore the needle guard is different too.

Doberdan (or was it dobro dan) Just curious - directly from Serbia or Srpska?

then you either try to find a lighter spring or cut down the existing spring

should be mentioned in the manual how to reduce foot pressure. That's a quite basic thing every sewing machine operator should know. You need just enough foot pressure that the rising needle is not lifting up the material you want to sew. Thicker / more dense material with thicker needle and thicker thread require more foot pressure because of more friction between needle and material. But the thinner the material and the thinner the needle the less foot pressure you need. EDIT:

have you tried to reduced the foot pressure?

18344 appears to be the hook needle guard for the 145 This is the needle guard for the 545 / large hook machine series: old # 18481 or new # 91-018-481-05 (large hook machines) https://armastore.eu/91-018-481-05-pfaff-1290-needle-guard-b Pretty sure you can get the part (at least) from authorized Pfaff dealers.

How about British Racing Green? It´s close to RAL 6005 afaik. Very classic color and never out of date Always wanted to paint a machine with 6005 but I always end up with silver or crackle coating (very predictable )

could be an old German FORTUNA Model. I have one on a shelf which I have started to restore some years ago but never finished it. Let me check I think it looks similar.

do you spin the hand wheel towards you or away from you?

usually the wick end is hanging into a small "pit" in the casting where access oil is collected which is behind the 3 bars. Not sure if it is the same on the 206 but maybe worth checking.

Just found this coincidentally - maybe interesting for restoration folks who want to reproduce Singer drawers as for the ancient 29K, 45K and the like... https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/rosette.htm not sure which is the right one but still...

this is from a slightly different machine but the procedure and values are the same for most CB hook machines. Hope this helps.

well, you could switch the machines heads so no need for full set up tables - of course depends on the machines. In my 111G156 table I also use my 307G2 (same bed size) and also the 212G141 with an adapter "box" (cause of longer bed). I have to admit the 212 in this case it is not not very conformable to use but I don´t use it very often so it is kinda okay for what I do. In my Singer 51w table I can also use the 143w and 107w (also same bed size here).

some folks here did upgrade the hook @DonInReno was one of them IIRC

there is no quick change device for 111 feet - not possible IMO cause they are clamped inside the presser foot bar. Option: Buy more machines - one for every step in the manufacturing process.

Have not compared the ones you linked (Singer type) with Pfaff but as long as you can find check springs advertised for Pfaff I´d rather buy those: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/9101093705-check-spring-pfaff-145-1245-genuine.html Foot is a left toe foot https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/91-040475-04x5mm-outside-foot-pfaff-generic.html You may find equivalents on Ebay as well.

Check this:

Have you checked with JACK North America? If you check with them better do not tell you have imported it from China better say you bought it from a closed business and you need support.

Have to admit - I did not expect this result!

Pfaff 145, 545, 335, 345, 245, 1245, 195, 595, 1295 and the like all share the same feet. AFAIK the Singer 111 type feet (they look similar sometimes) are not interchangeable with the Pfaff type feet. AFAIK no other brand (other than Pfaff) is using their type of feet. The Singer 111 type feet is the most common type and is used by most of the common sewing machine brands (including most modern clones) other than Pfaff and Adler and nowadays Dürkopp-Adler. If you have a "foot fetish" machines using the 111 Singer feet would be the best choice I´d say. This is a good read if you have a foot fetish https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-type/single-needle-walking-foot-feet.html

should be mentioned in the manual - (see picture) loosen the thumb screw and repositioning. This will alter the foot lift - highest foot lift in upper position lowest foot lift in lower position. I don´t know how significant the difference in the stitch length is but to be honest I don´t think this is practical.

Don´t know but maybe your feet are not lifting high enough but that can be adjusted on the rear side on the curve / cam. If the major problem is the shorter stitch length when sewing over thicknesses (don´t know what sicknesses you sew over and how significant this is on your projects) I would say you will have that with any other triple feed / needle feed machine as well cause the needle bar rock frame has a high pivoting point and therefore you have a pendulum effect and the needle is entering an leaving the material always in a certain angle but never in 90°. The thicker the material the smaller the stitch length. The only needle feed machine with a constant stitch length in all material thicknesses that I know of is the BUSMC #6HM (and similar machines) cause the needle enters the material always in a 90° angle. But that machine is probably an overkill for you - for me it was so I (sadly) sold it. Another option may be older drop feed + jump foot machines like Adler 5 / Singer 45K / 132K / 133K. But they have aggressive feed dogs and may mark the leather and many do not have reverse. EDIT: BTW - the Singer 108w is a triple feed too but with a different rock frame (little bit like the BUSMC #6) and the needle is entering and leaving the material in a 90° angle but it cannot sew 1/2" and has no reverse. If I was a sewing machine engineer I would scale up this thingy and add reverse EDIT II: if you want to upgrade from a class 69 I´d say an "affordable" machine could be a 341 Juki clone. You may look for "341 cylinder arm" machines in the UK. But I´m not sure if it would solve the "sewing over thicknesses / stitch length issue" - most likely not. But they use the standard Singer 111 type feet. Interestingly I just figured they seem to sell (sold atm) for approx 1/2 price of the "known" clones on my side of the pond. https://www.sewtex.de/SIRUBA-Naehtechnik-243/FREIARM-STEPPSTICHMASCHINEN--CYLINDER-BED-LOCKSTITCH-MACHINES-246/Cowboy-CB341--Cylinder-Bed-341-Sewing-Machine-1853.html