Constabulary

could be the friction between leather and needle. The thicker the leather and the thicker the needle the more friction you have. Try sewing some other material like webbing or thinner leather and to check if it is still squeaking. A titanium coated needle (like GEBEDUR) may reduce the friction - maybe worth trying.

weeeellll.... Not the same machine - I´m aware of that - but my decades old Singer 45D91 is matching in F + R no mater the stitch length I dialed in. It has an internal "butterfly" and the adjustment screw (the one left of the reverse lever) is the stop for the forward "wing" and for the reverse "wing" (if you can imagine what I mean). Pretty simple and very effective design. I think it is the same F + R mechanism as in the 31K32 just scaled up. But thats maybe not fancy enough for nowadays machines. The simple things are often the best. But that's a different story but looks like it was possible to design a simple and effective reverse mechanism decades ago already. Wondering if original JUKI 441 users have F + R problems with their machines as well. To be honest in the 21st Century a sewing machine factory and their dealers should be able to set up F + R stitch length matching if that is not possible (ex factory) I would say back to the drawing board. I don´t think this should be anything magic that sometimes work and sometimes don`t work (on a new machine). If it does not work then what is the purpose of having the reverse? You cannot expect that every sewing machine user is a tinkering guy and is able to help his / herself. If the only problem was a few washers then why not include them and mention the process in the manual (takes a few hours for creating a few pages and include them in the manual). If washers are included and the "how to" is mentioned in the manual (f.i. as in Singer 111G156 / 211 manuals ) - fine - if not - IMO factory / dealer failure and I would not accept the machine and either have the dealer to fix it , return the machine or get some $ back. 1K or 3K or 10K - does not matter IMO. From the perspective of a average sewing machine customer: If the machine has reverse I would expect that it works properly under normal sewing conditions and it has been properly adjusted when I´m buying a new machine (used from private seller is a different story). This has nothing to do with bashing or assaulting this is just what I would expect when I´m buying a new device. Conclusion: when there is a simple solution for the F+ R stitch length issue it should be mentioned in the manual - thats stupid simple.

Not sure if I got you right... To me it sounds like you have everything on hand already (incl binders) and even know how it should look like so what you need a is just a 2nd right side slide plate for attaching the binders - or not? Binder too far form the feet? Drill new holes closer to the feet or make a small extension that brings the binder closer... If it takes too long to chance out the sync. binder bracket and so forth (5 minutes at max.?) I would look for a 2nd 145 machine so you can switch the heads. 1 head fro plain sewing - 1 for binding work. what is that?

to my knowledge it is the same. 9345 is the Pfaff / Metro number and 8345 the original CLAES Number

Its a 8345-30 - great machines CLAES are the best patcher machines you can find (and that says Singer nerd ) . Longest stitch length, larges bobbin, highest foot lift and no bell crank lever that can wear down. If you need manual or a parts list for this machine send me a PM. But I have no accessories for it - Glenn is you best source in this regard!

Ha - looks like I broke google - haven´t found it for what ever reason. heard of that... damn... I think I would have called it sewing device or so.... maybe we will have something like it - one day - maybe

Thanks for this little history lesson, Bruce. It´s interesting. So what did Tandy do with the patent? Have they ever fabricated and marketed this Duncan Leather Punch? Or has the patent just collected dust in their drawers? Are there any pictures of Duncan Leather Punch? Seems I cannot find the patent online.

There is so much cast iron you will not overheat it with a heat gun, not even even with a gas blow torch.... you don´t want it "red glowing" just hot enough that the bushing can break free when you tap it. Is there probably a 2nd screw holding the bushing?

Cool device - wondering why it took so long that some came up with something like this. Pretty sure sooner or later you will have some far east copies of it I guess. Maybe someone can invent something for this device that it can use 2 threads and make a knot automatically that is then centered in the middle of 2 layers - Imagine that wouldn´t that be crazy?

Then I think the bushing is gummed or rusted in place (you never know) and you have to apply heat (hot air) with a heat gun for a while (big bushing embedded in quite some cast iron so it may take some time), a gas blow torch may work better but will burn the paint. Dont know if you have a larger splint driver so you could tap the bushing around the shaft somethings a gentle hammer strike will do the job but do not damage the bushing! I had to adjust the bushing on my 108w20 when I installed a new hook but in just the opposite direction. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79339-singer-108w20-my-new-binder-setup/?do=findComment&comment=528295

I think you have to remove the feed dog holder bar and the hook and then tap the bushing to the right IF it has no collar on the left side (not sure).

yeah, its the same hole as for the dip stick. There are no replacement decals for this machines. you may check with Keeler decals, maybe they can make them. https://www.singerdecals.com/miscellaneous/ I have a similar machine on my bench atm and can provide some good clear pictures of the decals if needed.

apply heat with a gas blow torch

The download here in the 1st post is of better quality

a BUSMC #6 HM hoarder you are

from the linked machines I would only buy the 211 - looks like a 211U (made in Japan = good quality) - I think it could have the large bobbin of the Juki 563 and the like but without knowing the subclass I only can guess (maybe a 211U566A?) Ask for a pictures of the front side - on the right side of the machine the class 211 and subclass numbers should be marked. On some of the 211U you can tweak the forward stitch length to approx 8mm but reverse is shorter then. Easy task they have a locked screws for this on the bottom side (its mentioned in the manual how this works). The shown machine also has a thread oilier and a built in bobbin winder. If it is a large bobbin machine 350 GBP sounds very reasonable. You may upgrade it with a speed reducer and servo motor for more slow start comfort and more torque. Thats what most leather workers do with this class of machines. I would buy it - IMO adverts for this type of machine usually do not last long at this price. EDIT: could be this one:

have you tightened the set screw that hold the long bushing in place? Maybe try loosening it, then shove the foot bar up, leave it up and the tighten the screw again. Know what I mean? The foot bar would line up the top and bottom bushing - maybe... wild guess but worth trying.

I have no 26 / 341 clone but triple feed machines are pretty much the same. What I would try is reducing the main foot pressure as much as possible. You just need enough foot pressure that the needle is not lifting up the material when is rising. That is caused by friction between leather and needle. Its depends on how thick you sew - the thicker the material the more foot pressure you need to work against the friction and vice versa. Furthermore I would reduce the walking foot height as much as possible. Why? Cause my theory is that the higher the outer foot lifts the more it works against the foot pressure spring and the more pressure you have on the inner (needle) foot. Of course when you have to walk over heights you may need more foot lift but when sewing flat it may reduce the foot marks. Let the foot lift maybe 2mm above the material when sewing. Just my thoughts...

Pic 2: pencil points to a hinge point of the thread lever - there should be a screw inside the hole. below your pencil 2 screws are missing that hold the bar 97730 in place but I guess you removed them, right? EDIT: answered the screw question my self (pic 1)

I´m not the big tutorial to be honest guy. I even forgot to take pictures of the cleaned parts cause I do this and that then and now... and when I´m in work (dirty fingers) mode I seldom grab the camera. I have it assembled already - almost. But the 45K is so simple you almost cant do anything wrong when you have some mechanics experience. Some screws are critical cause they are bit hard to reach and you need the right blade screw drivers otherwise you may damage the slits.

at your 1st picture the piece for the foot lift arm is missing - mine is missing too Will post a part link in a few minutes... EDIT: This thing here: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1399-97722-foot-lift-lever-link-seiko.html a small round bar from the tip of the foot lift arm goes into the oblong oval - if you know what I mean. I will compare the other picture with my machine - not sure atm... later...

not exactly sure where and when it get stuck but if the outer foot is in the shown position Id loosen the 2 screws and lower the foot bar.

reg. foot lift: if it is the outer foot that is not lifting check this link - maybe its the same problem: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/100802-something-has-to-be-missing/ reg. thread braking: make sure the bobbin case opener is properly adjusted and the thread keeps not hanging on it maybe you can shoot a video and post it here (Youtube link) and show the issues so we can visualize it better.

132K6 are all jump foot machines (no driven walking foot as on 441 and the like). Yes, foot bar looks a bit bent to the right. First Aid could be a washer / shim between outer foot and foot bar to bring it a bit further tot he left. However the 2 feet kinda look like they did not come as a set and probably do not perfectly match (I guess). The 10 most likely was an internal factory / plant machine number.

I have 132K6 and it sews leather just as good as my 45D91 (45K) but it depends on the nature of the product you want to produce. Sewing plain leather is one thing - producing a specific leather good is another thing. The 132K10 is a plain drop feed machine (like Singer 45K1) with no reverse but it has super large capacity bobbin rotary hook. The feed dog may mark the leather on the bottom side (depends on what leather you want to sew and the foot pressure you have adjusted - the less the better) but that IMO is no serious issue cause a lot of other sewing machines mark leather well. Question is if that is a problem for your product or not - for me it is not but thats maybe just me. Ex factory the 132K10 did not come with roller foot but can be set up with one (if you find one - its the same as for the 45K ). if it already has a roller foot - even better - they are hard to find! The machine is using the same presser feet as the Singer 45K / GA5-1 / CB105 / CB 2500 and the like. Parts are usually no problem. The machine shares parts with the more modern machines like Mitsubishi DY-253 and Seiko SK-2. Best bet - test sew it and decide whether this machine suits your requirements or not. If the motor is a clutch motor you can replace with with a servo and maybe add a speed reducer. When you test the machine make sure you can change the stitch length and the notches on the stitch length adjuster are NO worn. If they are worn you may have a hard time holding the lock lever (front right side) in place when changing the stitch length (push lock lever and turn hand wheel). Hope this helps.