Constabulary

Do you allow critical questions? To me it looks like a scam website to be honest.

I tried to explain it in this post already https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/96713-looking-for-singer-111g-right-slide-plate/?tab=comments#comment-656977

Nice! Please post some more pictures of this machine so we have a reference for other members. Seems to be a Singer 16 needle so I would look for needle system 1738 which is also called 16x23 or 16x257 or DBx1 or 287 WH sometimes. Or depending on the needle holder and / or the size of the hole in the needle bar you probably can use a more common needle like 134R or 135x17 but you have to adjust the needle bar height. The 2 mentioned have a ~2mm shank diameter whereas the original system has smaller diameter. If it was my machine I would order a pack of lets say size 120 needle in 134R and just test if they fit. Adjusting the needle bar height is an easy task.

have you tried to move needle holder a bit closer to the hook? Needle holder may be tight in its position but generally you can move it a bit sideways.

Believe it or nor when I was tinkering on my Singer 51w I had a similar problem. I installed a Durkopp brand hook cause the OEM Singer hook was badly worn. The top thread kept hanging and I could not figure why. I tried different brand hooks, even ground down the hook body, tried different brand bobbin cases and nothing worked until I figured the "rail" on an OEM Singer 111 bobbin case is a bit shorter and so I replace the Durkopp bobbin case with the OEM Singer bobbin case and it worked! So the thread kept hanging on the slightly longer "bobbin case rail" when the top thread has been pulled up I have used not the OEM throat plate and not OEM hook so this "special parts situation" can probably not copied to other sewing machines but I just want to give a hint. I cannot put the parts in a good angle to show the difference but the rail on the left bobbin case is approx 1mm longer. Picture shows a sample but the rail on the OEM Singer bobbin case # 233764 (at least on my bobbin case) is even shorter (2mm I think - compared with the Durkopp bobbin case) and that shorter rail solved the thread handing problem - at least in my special case. maybe this helps - maybe not.

usually there is a slot in the plate and you can bend the "thorn" a little bit with a screw driver for adjusting the fit. Thats not unusual, Pfaff Adler and other brands have similar side plates.

appears to be the needle feed version of the Juki 341 - it at least appears to be quite similar

@Tacha You have a PM

this is what I had in mind when thinking of the 226 seems there were casting variants:

oh - right - I see - sorry! I thought the Singer 111 clones would have this window too... I have edited my last post (see above). So maybe then it is the position of the hand wheel on the top shaft. Usually the hand wheel is held by 2 set screws in a certain position and one set screw sits in a grove on the top shaft so maybe the hand wheel is positioned incorrectly. You know what I mean?

The stitch length dial is held on the top shaft by a set screws. Dial in the longest stitch length (5SPI) open the top cover then loosen this set screw and rotate the dial until you see the "5" in the window then tighten the screw again. This does not change any settings on the machine or so it is just the position of the dial you alter to match the dial with the stitch length. But as you can imagine the dial is not necessarily 100% precise cause the window gives quite some room for displaying the number on the stitch length dial. Just play with it a little bit with the dial position. I think Singer says in the 111 manual you should do this with 8 SPI. Let me check the manual... EDIT: Yeah, 8SPI - this most likely is because you can reach the set screw in this position. This is from the Singer 111 manual:

Maybe you like to show us some pictures of your machine. And a video will probably better explain the issue. regarding timing - I think the post #3 in this thread will help you with the timing:

@Klara Not a leather supplier - CS is short for College Sewing Machine Parts Just got a response form another UK supplier - quote:

The Singer 7 came with (at least) 2 different hook sizes / bobbin sizes so when looking for a hook compare the bobbin sizes too or you may end up with an way to large or way to small hook. F.i. the 7-10 has smaller hook than the 7-33. I have a German language Adler 20 (predecessor of the 120 and similar to Singer 7) spare parts list and the larger hook has parts number 20195 (parts list explicit says Large Shuttle) and the smaller hook has parts number 20319 (closed frame) and 20315 (open frame). I think they are the same as for the 120. I assume the 120/8 is using the smaller hook but I´m not 100% sure. Can you find a spare parts number on your hook or on the shuttle race so maybe we can figure out more when comparing the parts numbers.

CS still does not ship to the EU. They said since January all packages they sent to the EU have been returned (that was in May) by the carriers (UPS & DPD) so they do not ship to the EU until this is solved. Unbelievable. Feels like I want to plutonium from the Russians - thats probably easier meanwhile. Today I sent a request to Trojan Sewing asking if they have successfully delivered package to the EU but yet no reply.

Be careful with removing shafts - you may damage parts and there are no spares available except someone rips apart his broke machine. If it was my machine I would not do it. But it´s of course up to you. There are no service manuals for these machines. However - the closest nowadays available machine is the Seiko TF-6 I have attached a parts lists. Maybe it will help you. PARTS_TF-6_6B.pdf

I assume you have the needle all the way down when turning around the material, right? Try this, rise the needle bar until only the needle tip remains in the material and then turn around the material. What thread size and needle size are you using? Any specific leather tip needle that you are using?

yeah - that can happen and often owners do not what to do and sell the machine as broke. This is what I found on my 107w1 between bobbin case and hook when I received it. The thread and oil have built up to a really compact piece. There were 4 or 5 colors of thread in this thread "cookie". They just did not care about the machine until the bitter end (all of a sudden, of course) and then did not know what to do. Machine cost me 1€ + shipping back then Conclusion - better know your machine and be able to help your self.

Your dealer is right. You cannot use singe needle piping foot set on a double needle machine! You can try to modify a foot set but that requires cutting and welding / brazing. Maybe a cheap drop feed machine will work better. Like Juki 127, 555 or a Singer 31K, 331K, 95K, 96K or the like. Accessories are rather cheap for these machine. You sometimes can buy industrial plain drop feed machines for a bargain but depends on your sewing machine market... Note the list of machines in the description: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143446313333

45K´s sometimes have round belt groves and sometime V groves (newer machines rather have V groves) and yes considering the size of the machine the grooves seem to be quite narrow sometimes. Mine has V groves and I´m using a 10mm 10/Z belt (metric world) or X10 (toothed) belts - no problems. Yes the belts seem to bee a bit too wide but thats not really an issue. So it really depends on your machine pulley. https://www.zahnriemen24.de/a/40051-keilriemen-z-10 https://www.zahnriemen24.de/a/40059-keilriemen-x10 Alternatively on some of my machines I´m using green PU round belts with rough surface in 8mm like this: https://www.ebay.de/itm/133659334890

What domestic machine costs 4000? New computerized or vintage? It´s one thing that someone is asking that kind of money for what ever machine the other thing is finding someone who is willing (or able) to pay that money. Often (vintage) domestic machines are more a collectible rather than a machine people are actually using. Of course there are a lot of shades of grey between collecting and using but IMO most domestic machines are overpriced. But vintage industrial machine are sometimes way overpriced too especially on Ebay.com.

@Jholden0 maybe a longer bottom bushing will do the job too. I just noticed the later model 51w seems to have a bottom bushing only so maybe a longer one will work w/o installing a top bushing. I only can guess but looks like a good solution w/o drilling and gluing in a top bushing. Of course diameter of old and new bushing have to match. See below thread:

Yours appears to be the 2nd model of the 51w and to me it looks like it has a smaller diameter needle bar than the 1st model (which I own). Looks like you have a fairly long bottom bushing but no top bushing (due to short needle bar). I only can judge from pictures as I never have touched a 2nd model 51w. I guess the NB on your 51w has a 6.35mm diameter. Therefore you could use a Singer 107w / 143w or Singer 111w needle bar. Take a measure on your 226R - I assume it has a needle bar with the same diameter as the 51w shown. If that's the case it will be an easy task. You probably have to shorten the new NB.

IMO oil the open gears - grease tends to collect dust, lint, dirt (broken needle tips sometimes) more than oil. When you apply new oil it can wash off some dirt, lint... thats what the oil drip pan is for. No matter what clean the machine regularly. I only use grease or sticky synthetic lubricant in capsuled gear boxes. But as always opinions are different.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/hotheart10/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=