Constabulary

I cannot see the hook tip of your hook. But maybe the timing is just 1 timing belt tooth off (don´t know). You know what I mean? Or maybe the hook tip is too far away from the needle? What needle system are you using? Maybe its just the needle bar that is set too high (happens with the time that the NB rises a little bit) Holy Smokes! Don´t know where that offer came from but $290 IMO is a rip off. Even for a rare part and even when it is OEM Singer. Here are two hooks from the UK - maybe worth checking with them: https://www.dowlings-sew.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=Hirose_HSH-51-1 https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/hsh511-hook-and-base-hirose or look for HIROSE HSH-51-1 hook.

I have a 108w20 - basically the cylinder arm version of the 151w. The feet of the 111w and 108w fit w/o problem but depends on what foot you need for your needle plate. There are many different feet for the 111w series. Do you need a complete hook or just hook parts? Bobbin case and other hook parts except the hook body (263141) seem to be the same as for the 107w / 143w (I have both). The hook is basically the same as for the 107w / 143w I think but it has a different mount. The 143w hook has 2 prongs and yours (I guess) has a hole where the shaft goes in and it is pinned, right? This is from a 143w parts list - please compare with the 151w parts list. Hope this helps a little bit.

I just checked the parts list. My bad - you are right! Different feed systems. But seems there is a needle plate and feed dog for the 8BLH-1 for "plain sewing"

wiping with denatured alcohol / ethanol a few times?

Haven`t done the converting on a Seiko LSC but on an Adler 69 and Pfaff 335 for a friend. Adler 69 and Pfaff 335 are the same class machines and kinda similar reg. the mechanism in the arm. Basically you need a feed dog, throat plate and the arm cover plate of a LSC-8b-1 (or -2) and the screws. Maybe the LSC has some special parts that I cannot see but these are the basic parts for a conversion. I recall on the Adler 69 I also have replaced the frame or bracket the throat plate is mounted to. Later it should look like this (picture comes from https://brutalforcegear.blogspot.com/) Should not be a too big issue but finding the parts may be a little challenge. BTW - you can download the parts list from the SEIKO website. It should show all the parts you need. http://www.seiko-sewing.co.jp/en/partslist

This is the thread I had in mind (BCL touching casting) - not sure if this happens in your machine https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/74521-singer-111w155-presser-foot-adjustment/ Open the face plate and check what is going on mechanically. You can also limit the foot lift this this guide thingy here that slides up and down in the "fork" thingy - see picture. Maybe you have to lower it. Maybe the above helps already but we cannot judge your machine from the distance or w/o seeing pictures or a video.

@LatigoAmigo Like it or not - but thats what Kickstarter is for - raising funds for starting a business / implementing a project. https://www.kickstarter.com

You seem to have the early version of the 51w - a Singer 211 needle feed bar or 111w151 needle feed needle bar (or similar) would have been easier I´d say. That way you can use the OEM lower bushing and only have to add a bushing on the top. Keep in mind the needle bar has to fit the needle bar clamp. Your clamp seems to have a larger diameter than the 111 triple feed needle bar you have used. But not sure though, hard to tell from the picture.

This comes from an Adler 20 manul but the machine is very similar. Hope this picture is helpful:

I´m not sure but I think I recall a picture where the bell crank lever behind the face plate is touching the casting but I´m not sure if it was in the same regard.

@Mulesaw Please post pictures of your machine from front, back and face plate side.

@Jholden0 if you don´t mind please post a parts number and a source link. That for sure will be helpful for future NB conversions on similar machines.

Not sure about the subclass but the Pfaff 24 is pretty much the same as the Singer 18 - a clone if you want.

Looks like a Singer 236 will wheel feed. They usually have a very short stitch length. I don´t think its a clone I still can see the Singer badge.

The Adler roller feet (Class 4, 5, 104, 105, 204, 205) are all the same none of them were attached to the regular squared foot mount. They all slide onto the foot bar and have a round mount with clamping screw. These roller feet are a lot beefier than the "plain" roller feet you find for Singer 31K and the like!!!! I would try MJ Foley or Weaver Leather, maybe they can supply the ADLER roller foot. EDIT: See picture

They are very hard to find but just in case the Singer 45K Adler 4 / Adler 5 roller feet are the same. Not sure who offers the clones but they were available at one time: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Leather-Roller-Foot-For-Singer-45k-45k25-45k21-GA5-GA5-1-P-No-82435-91675-/221448164280

Have you checked if your forward and reverse stitch length are the same? Or is reverse probably longer than forward? If they do not match the adjustment procedures is mentioned in the manual. Usually when you increase forward stitch length the reverse becomes shorter and the other way around.

College Sewing - they have tons of different binders, folders... Not sure if they still offer the printed catalogue but it is worth having. Great reference for binder attachments and so forth. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/folders-attachments

if you have them as PDF please share them here.

Nice!!! Too bad the parts for the jump foot are missing. I love the cast iron stand very much!

IMO the best but for sure the most expensive is a CLAES 8346-30 or the predecessor 8345-30 or 200-30. the #30 sub class is one with the largest hook & bobbin and highest foot lift, there re also #10 and #20 sub classes but they have smaller hooks. Downside is that the parts are super expensive but they are technically the most advanced patchers and have the longest stitch length of all patcher machines. Followed by the Singer 29K70, 29K71, 29K72 and 29K73 they have the best parts situation because they are still mace by Chinese companies so the parts are fairly cheap. The 29K72 has a larger hook & bobbin compared with the other mentioned models. So on the long run you can run the mentioned 29K models most economically. There are a lot more 29K models but the lower the sub class number the older the machines and the worse is the parts situation. For older 29K´s you still can buy certain parts but critical wear parts like gear box pinions are almost unavailable or in best case hard to find.

Or DIY a simple cyclone dust collector. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WnitgYFnE0

holy smokes - thats really nice !!! This is how my cat would look like, I think I´m close, right Wanna see my dogs too **kidding**

When some one puts a link to a sale site and asks for "interested" it to me looks like he wants to sell something / boost sales / wants to promote his shoes (what ever). To me it does not look as if he was asking for opinions on his shoe design or workmanship. Even if I liked the shoes design wise - I would not buy them because of the super low profile cheapish looking soles that probably wears off in a few weeks (or days?). Thats not sustainable, just another throw away fashion piece. We have far too much of this fast fashion junk. Every Chuck Tailor All Star has a better sole. For me the soles on shoes are very important. I´d ask the shoe maker for better soles but looks like this is a kind of kit and you have no other options. Since the shoes are made in Italy check with VIBRAM they make All Star soles as well. My opinion.

I have one - please send me a PM with your email address If the hook is missing the machine is using the large 29K hooks as for the singer 29K60, 29K72 or Adler 30-7