Constabulary

agree! Really Impressive and it really looks cool. Any chance that you have a pattern for this jacket?

Its a tapered pin it only goes out one - you have to figure which way. If it was me I would leave it where it is. I would neither remove the top shaft nor the cams on the top shaft. Just wash out the gunk with brushes and kerosene or paint thinner or similar.

Not possible afaik. Let me guess the speed reducer makes it harder to turn the hand wheel by hand. If so I think the reduction is too big. I have the same issue on my Singer 45D91. The big reduction makes it hard to turn the hand wheel. I don´t have the problem on other machines with smaller reduction.

What does Abbey say? Would not surprise when certain things go down and prices go up because of BREXIT. Maybe raw materials became harder to get for them. I checked with College Sewing and they do not deliver to EU countries since Brexit took place. Quite a loss for them I guess.

You answered most of your thought by your self. Adler 30-7 is not Chinese made and in your price range - even better it is local. Adler parts are expensive but bobbins and shuttle hooks are the same as for the large hook Singer 29K (like 29K72) so they are available fairly cheap. Most important - test the maximum stitch length, ex factory it should be approx 5mm but used machines often have a shorter stitch length because of wear but thats not unusual. Download a user manual and test the machine I´d say.

Adler 98 zig zag machine

Please post pictures of your threaded machine so maybe we can see if something is wrong. There are 2 types of 52w. THis manual is for the earlier type. Maybe it helps Singer 51w100 and 52w100 - instructions for using and adjusting.pdf

https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/antiek-en-kunst/antiek-naaimachines/m1703886539-leer-naaimachine-gebruikt-voor-patchwork.html?previousPage=lr Pretty much like a Pfaff 23 - same class as Singer 17, Adler 48 oder Seiko TF-6. I´m not sure but it could have a CB hook. The needle plate is definitely Pfaff type (as used on Pfaff 25 or 28). By far not as heavy ad a Singer 45k - pretty much 2 classes lower than the 45K Pfaff 23: https://www.google.com/search?q=pfaff+23&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=2YTZG27KdMIblM%2CEtY9M0A0uYrXWM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTxARoNIs5P8-lreC_DuDBYGuljQw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjh28WImKPxAhXJgP0HHRObCUoQ9QF6BAgIEAE&biw=1280&bih=852#imgrc=2YTZG27KdMIblM

Electrolysis is the way I would go.

Both topics have been covered several times. Maybe a google forum search will get you some pictures or more information. Really, we talked about it several times already.

well, no picture, no model number, no link - who do you think will know what you are talking about?

Post model number and most import some good pictures. The one I have seen a while ago was very much like the Pfaff 335

@DavidJohn Quite and old post you reply to but anyway. "Powerful machine" is a point of view and depends on what you want to sew. The power is not inside the machine the power comes from the motor that drives the machine. So question rather is: Right machine + motor for the job - or not. I would generally agree that a German made sewing machine from the 1950s / 1960´s will last longer than a modern Chinese made machine BUT the machines have to come from the same class otherwise it is like comparing apples and eggs. So a general statement that "a" Chinese made machine will not last longer that the Pfaff 230 is not the "full truth". There comes crap from China but also very well built machines. The 230 is not an industrial machine, it is well built but it still it is a domestic machine that has it´s limitations. If I had to choose lets say between a Pfaff 230 and a Chinese build Singer 20U clone I would go with the 20U clone (and I´m by far not a big fan of Chinese made machines). But thats still comparing apples and eggs. As I said before the work you want to do decides which type of machine you will need. @chrisash I recently bought some presser feet from a Chinese Ebay seller and they were so dirt cheap I did not expect very good feet at all (wanted to modify them anyway). But what I received was far above my expectations. Totally smooth bottom side and very well finished. So yeah - you can buy cheap and receive crap but you can also buy cheap and receive excellent quality. Thing is you never really know what you will get when you buy from "these sellers" that sell all kind of odds and ends and are not focused on a certain branch. I guess a lot of the "odds & Ends" seller just sell overstock / surplus parts they buy in bulks or so. To be honest the percentage of crap items I received from China is fairly low. The majority of parts I have received (yet) where good to very good.

I once got a bunch of "strap folder" for double needle machines from a closed leather business. Most are gone (sold too cheap) and I only have 2 left. Never used them but you never know. They are single folds so I do not know what kind of strap they used it for. I´m sure there are other strap folders out there that produce clean edges (triple fold?). Maybe clean edge binder attachment can do the work but of course depends on the leather you want to use.

I meant the suspending edge guides here - sorry.

Lots of questions. I can speak for the Adler 69 which technically is a very similar machine. The basic machine is the same - the difference between the two is the arm cover plate, feed dog, presser foot set and throat plate which are interchangeable. Basically you can turn the "regular" model into a binder machine and vice versa. If you have a binder machine and want to do regular sewing you can remove the binder attachment and you are done BUT the binder bracket is moving back and forth and you still have the 2 screw post that hold the binder bracket - so that's the cheapest solution. The better and cleaner more professional solution is replacing the throat plate, feed dog, presser foot set and the binder bracket (this will be replaced by an arm cover plate). A swing away binder is usually used on a standard machine / a machine w/o synchronized binder only. I have not seen a SAW Binder on a synchronized binder machine yet. You can DIY flat bed attachments if you are DIY guy or gal or maybe a Pfaff 335 oder Adler 69 attachment could work too Forum search: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=flatbed+attachment+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum%2F You can buy swing away binders on ebay for bargain prices you just need a adapter bracket for your machine - can be DIY too or you look up a machine specific adapter bracket.

Very nice! May I ask where do you buy the binding tape in OD and Koyote?

and something that might e useful too (came from Keystone Sewing Machines in PA): Singer 111W Consew 225 REPAIR_compressed.pdf

Here is one 225.pdf

The long arm 29 / 29Ks have a wider base so the short arm 29 / 29K fit on the long arm treadles but IIRC not the other way around - except you "cobble" an extension.

The hook is shredding the thread just occasionally so IMO the needle bar is too high. That usually is a very small problem and easy to fix when you have the timing values. As a workaround w/o knowing the timing values and if it was my machine I would loosen the 2 screws that hold the needle bar in place and just lower the NB a tiny bit (maybe 0.5mm - 1mm) and check again. Again - this is what I would do or try w/o knowing this particular machine. But the NB/ Hook timing is very similar on this type of sewing machines.

to me it looks like the hook tip is shredding the top thread. I would try to lower the needle bar a little bit. What does the manual say regarding needle / hook timing? EDIT: I don´t know the Weaver machine in particular but usually on large barrel hook machines you bring the NB to bottom dead center and raise it 4mm - 5.5mm (depends on machine) and at this point the the hook tip should meet needle in the center of the needle scarf or 2.5mm above the needle eye to ensure the hook tip is gripping the thread loop properly. EDIT II: I just checked the manual it says you should call Weaver if you have a timing issue If you call them maybe you can share the needle / hook timing values

Susan, the the post you reply to is 9 yrs old

IMO Singer 111w or 107w needle bars should work.

Definitions may differ in different countries but a term you often read in terms of small business made items in MANUFATUR. I know the translations may throw out different meaning. A MANUFAKTUR may differ in sizes (number of employees and so forth) depending on the branch but usually - nowadays - when you read MANUFAKTUR over here (like leather MANUFAKTUR, Glass MANUFAKTUR....) is most of the time is associated with a small business producing high quality goods in a rather small volume (again - depends on the definition) with a high amount of hand and / or art work. Not sure if MANUFAKTUR has the same meaning worldwide and history for has changed the meaning but that pretty much the definition in the "old world" nowadays: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manufaktur#Der_moderne_Begriff (use googel translate) We don´t have to look far - same with sewing machine like ARTISAN or COWBOY or THOR. No one in Europe (I guess) would call his sewing Machine Co. COWBOY - of course it´s a different story in the US. It gives you a certain association with something most folks (in the US) are familiar with - the original Co. name is HIGHTEX IIRC - so calling it COWBOY is a marketing name tailored to the US market. THOR and ARTISAN of course gives certain associations with something else. Thats marketing! Not meant as an offense to the brand names!