Constabulary

If you have the space its never wrong to have a backup machine even when it is a lighter duty machine. Beside of that I personally prefer to work on flat bead machines - when ever possible.

Adler 30-10 - but thread take up lever adjuster is not original. Looks lie the latest model of the 30-10. When you peel off the Mason sticker you probably find an adler lettering

Loooong ago I asked if someone has used this foot set, not much response back then. I always wanted to buy them for my 111G156 - never did. But I have this foot set on my watch list for quite a while. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80511-buckle-foot-for-singer-111-type-machiens-consew-seiko-juki/

wire -> tire it is

Small update: Upgraded the badly bubba`ed bobbin winder (proper thumb nut replaced the drawer knob, eccentric finished and bobbin holder axle replaced - still have to attach the wire) Also Finished the face plate - tension units needed several OEM parts.

this may help - you have that same problem on all kind of triple feed machines. Screws may be slightly different but solution often is the same:

They wont? Why? Whats different? I don´t think that is an significant "notable optical disturbance" when you look at the shoes. If you mean the "slanted" stitch seams well you can use LR or LL needles if the seam appearance matters but most seams I have seen on shoes are just straight. There are fat bed machine like the 110w / 110K for sewing shoe uppers too but they did not come as left stands afaik And on my end I see more left stand class 18 than right stand class 17 (same with Pfaff equivalents) if they were for left and right shoes you at least would see the same amount of class 17 - or not? So far I see no plausible reason where I would say - YES thats why! But maybe thats just me.

Broke - I guess. You should have a serious business plan and know the market very well when you make big investments (unless you are a wealthy hobbyist). You sometime see people buying big leather machines like the 441 clones and a few month later you see the same people selling them - sure for different reasons (health, life has changed, wrong hobby...) but often cause the business is not as profitable as it should. I would love to own a bar tacker but I cannot justify the investment (at least in a new one) cause it never would pay off (hobbyist, but not wealthy ). So for the few bar tacks I do a ZZ machines works kinda okay. Maybe one days a proper and affordable bar tacker crosses my way.

Questions remains - why only cylinder arm machines for the leather trade (at least thats how it looks like) . I´m sure the were more seamstress in the manufacturing of clothing left handed than seamstress in the manufacturing of leather good - or not? I would expect to see machines like the 31K as left stand too or other machines of this class or even the 111 class but there were none as a it seems. Thats why I somehow doubt these machines (mainly cylinder arm) were exclusively made for seamstress with a left dominant hand. Of course I only can guess... Dürkopp 15 was a left stand machine too but also cylinder arm and for sewing leather.

I´m just about restoring a left stand Singer 145k - it´s first left stand machine I ever have touched. So question arises - what (really) is the purpose of a left stand machine? And why only cylinder arm machines for the leather trade? Cause almost every left stand I know of are of the same class with long beak shuttle like Singer 18, Seiko TF-6, Pfaff 27, Pfaff 24, Adler 49. My Singer 145K1 seems to be a rare exception and of a much heavier class. Pfaff made some other left stand cylinder arm machines of the 335 or 345 class IIRC. So why no flat bed machines, post bed machines, patchers or even skiving machine? Well, maybe there are a few - I do not know. Story goes - the left stand machines are for left hand operators. Are they? I don´t think so - but also do not know for sure! What does a left hand sewing machine operator do differently? Lifting the foot lever with the other hand - maybe? Is that all? Well I´m a right hand op. and lift the feet on my machines with the left and sometimes even with the right hand. So do left hand op. lift the foot with the right hand? Is that the only purpose and worth the time and money for "inventing" left stand machines and only a few of approx the same class? So basically it does not matter which hand you use for lifting (more or less a habit) the foot and what when the left stand machine is set up with a foot lift pedal? So I really would like to understand what the purpose - or advantage - of a left stand machine is? So from my point of view (at the moment) it seems it does not make a difference. If someone knows other left stand sewing machines feel free to post them - I´m really curios.

Singer 29K shuttles (small and large) are interchangeable with the Adler shuttles and yes you can use 135x17 / 135x16 needles in 29K and 30-1 - so do I in my 29K71.

indeed interesting - well that's typical mass production. We all know the advantage of having different / multiple machines / tools for specific jobs. Question is if the investment in more machines / tools pays off and that depends on the output and / or how high (or low) your investment was and who is servicing the machines (you, an in house mechanic or an external Co.).

Your lifting lever should look like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162714485633 Regarding the Video: The outer foot is pushed up when the inner foot makes contact with the needle plate and moves back until it lifts again and then the outer foot goes down again. In your video you have not installed the inner foot so the outer foot cannot lift.

Thats what I always say

Just in case - this was the "inspiring video". I just pulled the wire to the right for having a tighter coil

I solved a small (no - rather big) problem meanwhile. Since this is a left stand machine and the tension unit is on the opposite side compared to the standard 45K´s (see picture) I needed a left wound check spring. The former owner had the same problem and bubba`ed a too weak spring from plain wire (obviously failed). Wrapped my thoughts around the spring and an Adler 220 spring set came to my mind which is correctly wound but 2mm too wide. Then a patcher threading wire came to my mind and a YT video about making springs that I watched the other day so I gave it a try. 1st try making a check spring failed - 2nd spring turned out good and is functional The 2nd spring parts (not really a spring considering its function) I found in a spare parts box which really surprised me to find. So I replaced some missing and wrong parts on the two tension units and they are now good to go The lower TU was my biggest concern actually - no functional TU -> no sewing!

I´d try this - loosen this screw (maybe its loose already), rotate the hand wheel toward you until the inner foot and the tip of the needle arrive at throat plate level at the same time. Then tighten the screw again and check if it works.

Thanks a lot Michiel, hope you had a great Koningsdag yesterday Spring is a little larger than needed but it is an option but requires modification.

Seems to be a 30-1. Little secret - the long needle machines 30-5 and 30-7 have the arm hinge point further to the right. 30-1: 30-7:

I forgot to post pics of the the dirty stuff. The cleaned parts turned out super nice - seems to be a quite low millage machine. Even some of the old parts bluing is still quite good! Will post some pictures of the cleaned parts later or tomorrow.

Depends on your market but 750€ is a fair price already IMO. if he sells it for 400€ he is a fool but worth trying - you never know Here is one in Germany for 650€ and with servo already - that's quite a bargain for a machine in this condition and with servo motor I´d say. https://www.quoka.de/gewerbe-business/produktionsmaschinen/c8090a319777574/pfaff-1245-dreifachtransport-230v.html

That definitely looks super cool!

definitely and it is no Singer!

There for sure is always a pleasure in using quality tools but for me (I do just basic leather work) the 5 in 1 thingy you get everywhere fro 5-15 bucks works fairly good. Got mine from Ebay for maybe 5 or 6 bucks a while ago You can´t go wrong with it at this price - even if it turns out "not so good". I just sharpened / polished the edgers and grover with jewelers rouge and I´m pleased so far. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354015291037