Constabulary

to start with when the hook is not picking up the top thread f.i. when needle bar is too high when the needle hit a hart spot (needle plate...) and the NB has been pushed up and so forth...

Even when you have a driver license it does not mean you are a good car driver. Same with sewing machines - you may have read the manual (really do that! Even print it and have it next to your machine) and watched a lot of videos and still things go wrong.... There is always learning curve.... One day when you have fixed enough sewing machine issues you will solve these tiny issues in a heart beat without thinking much. But even then, there will be always something new left and right of what the manual says.... Thats where experience jumps into the sewing machine game.

I hope I get this thing done - one day - maybe... Back then (actually 2017 as I figured) I ordered a few parts in Poland for the nowadays 801 skiver (they all seem to be the same) and the parts worked for my skiver. You may have a source in Australia too - maybe MARFAR or you check ALI Express or Ebay for 801 skiver parts You can download a manual and parts list for the modern 801 skiver here - you for sure find a lot similarities. https://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Supreme-TK-801-Leather-Skiver_c_93.html

@David Bruce

finally.... here is mine. I restored it a few years ago (2 or 3 or so) but never really finished it , still missing some pulleys. Has collected quite some dust meanwhile. Looks very similar - Mine is a Model W (what ever that means)

And college sewing do not have it? I can look in my bins maybe I have one. But I´m in Germany. EDIT: Answered it myself - out of stock https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/068150910-hook-gib-adler-genuine.html EDIT II: I don´t have it - sorry

I honestly never expected that this thing will ever sew again! Congratulations! Assuming needle too far away from hook of needle bar set too high.

hm - sorry - I probably mixed up something. But further down in the parts list you find the needle guard 91-018-481-05 also listed for the 545. So it may depend on what hook gib you have - Hook gib seems to be the different and maybe therefore the needle guard is different too.

Doberdan (or was it dobro dan) Just curious - directly from Serbia or Srpska?

then you either try to find a lighter spring or cut down the existing spring

should be mentioned in the manual how to reduce foot pressure. That's a quite basic thing every sewing machine operator should know. You need just enough foot pressure that the rising needle is not lifting up the material you want to sew. Thicker / more dense material with thicker needle and thicker thread require more foot pressure because of more friction between needle and material. But the thinner the material and the thinner the needle the less foot pressure you need. EDIT:

have you tried to reduced the foot pressure?

18344 appears to be the hook needle guard for the 145 This is the needle guard for the 545 / large hook machine series: old # 18481 or new # 91-018-481-05 (large hook machines) https://armastore.eu/91-018-481-05-pfaff-1290-needle-guard-b Pretty sure you can get the part (at least) from authorized Pfaff dealers.

How about British Racing Green? It´s close to RAL 6005 afaik. Very classic color and never out of date Always wanted to paint a machine with 6005 but I always end up with silver or crackle coating (very predictable )

could be an old German FORTUNA Model. I have one on a shelf which I have started to restore some years ago but never finished it. Let me check I think it looks similar.

do you spin the hand wheel towards you or away from you?

usually the wick end is hanging into a small "pit" in the casting where access oil is collected which is behind the 3 bars. Not sure if it is the same on the 206 but maybe worth checking.

Just found this coincidentally - maybe interesting for restoration folks who want to reproduce Singer drawers as for the ancient 29K, 45K and the like... https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/rosette.htm not sure which is the right one but still...

this is from a slightly different machine but the procedure and values are the same for most CB hook machines. Hope this helps.

well, you could switch the machines heads so no need for full set up tables - of course depends on the machines. In my 111G156 table I also use my 307G2 (same bed size) and also the 212G141 with an adapter "box" (cause of longer bed). I have to admit the 212 in this case it is not not very conformable to use but I don´t use it very often so it is kinda okay for what I do. In my Singer 51w table I can also use the 143w and 107w (also same bed size here).

some folks here did upgrade the hook @DonInReno was one of them IIRC

there is no quick change device for 111 feet - not possible IMO cause they are clamped inside the presser foot bar. Option: Buy more machines - one for every step in the manufacturing process.

Have not compared the ones you linked (Singer type) with Pfaff but as long as you can find check springs advertised for Pfaff I´d rather buy those: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/9101093705-check-spring-pfaff-145-1245-genuine.html Foot is a left toe foot https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/91-040475-04x5mm-outside-foot-pfaff-generic.html You may find equivalents on Ebay as well.

Check this:

Have you checked with JACK North America? If you check with them better do not tell you have imported it from China better say you bought it from a closed business and you need support.