Constabulary

What I can say for sure it is not a Model 18 cause the 18 had a static boat type shuttle (see link in Wiz´s post) I would say Dürkopp 17 (elastic / oscillating shuttle) however Dürkopp also had a Model 16 that they did not continue in 1930 so it could be a 16. Meaning it could be a predecessor of the Model 17. But to be honest I do not know the differences in particular. But the later 17 had a different needle plate and tension unit - not sure if that alone makes yours a model 16.

Wiz, no 29D58 could be correct - because some 29 models were made in Wittenberge, Germany prior 1945. But they are the the exact same as K models made in Killbowie, Scottland. Usually the German made Singers serial numbers (prior 1945) start with a C.

my spool holder has no bearings and is not causing drag issues. It´s an old ADLER all metal made model and the spool core is sitting on a tube that spins around plain round shaft. Never tried something else as it always worked well. College Sewing in the UK has some tape racks: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/accessories/chair-stands-table-tops/tape-racks Maybe worth checking with them because of binders. Maybe they know a source in the UK for custom made binders or can even offer one that suits your needs (don´t know). https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/folders-attachments

these Co´s are in Germany: https://www.np-z.com/sonderbau https://www.grau-apparatebau.de/produkte.html BTW - Dürkopp Adler is offering attachments / special solutions too: https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/products/specialized-solutions They have a catalogue: https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/fileadmin/dag/Media/Doc/Branches/additional_equipment_catalogue_2021.pdf But I´m sure they offer other special solutions too but they wont be cheap

You need a presser foot set that suits the needle plate (throat plate) and feed dog. Binding with 1mm thick leather is special - leather is causing more friction between the binder and the binding material (leather tape in your case) than f.i. nylon or cotton webbing does. You need a binder that suits your chosen biding material. And that is the main problem. Most (not all) binders you find online are not really meant for using thick leather as biding material but it depends on the binding material thickness (because of the friction). Right angle (90°) raw edge binder are causing more friction than 45° binder or inline binder. When the friction between binder and binding material is too high you will have a stretch effect and that will ruin your project. Maybe its worth considering thinner leather tape like 0.5mm or so. You can try to find cheap binders online (trial and error) or check with attachment companies like Atlanta attachments (or similar Co´s in the UK) and they will make a proper binder that suits your chosen binding material and your machine but that will cost you big $.

just adding some information:

I would remove the V-belt on the machine pulley and try again. Still squeaking? If not maybe then its the motor brake or the V-belt. You know how the motor brake works?

Few more

Update. Its assembled again. Not entirely happy with the paint but well, it looks better than before. I just striped the paint of hand wheel and added a Singer badge. Presser foot was missing now it has a new one and I replaced the spool pin with a new chromed one. Upper tension unit is replaced too and I added a new thread guide.

this is what I have

yes, stands like this were used by Singer, Adler and so forth. I have one from a Singer 7 but but just the 2 outer parts. This will be my kitchen table one day (kicking this around for 3 years or so) But it would not surprise me if they were used in other plants as well. I shot these pic in 2016 when I visited a Museum in Bielefeld (Home of Dürkopp, Adler, Phoenix and other sewing machine brands)

overstitcher.... you learn something new everyday. That really is interesting. Will check them out... Thanks a lot for that hint.

I think that may be the 45K25 that came with a roller presser. AFAIR the 21 was a plain presser foot. I think you are right - my bad

so you do not get #10 into #13, right? It pretty much is the same on all rotary hooks (vertical and horizontal). I would hold #10 (bobbin case base or basket) by the small center post push it slightly against #13 and either rotate the hand wheel or the bobbin case basket it self until it falls into the race then rotate a bit more and the bobbin case should be in place again. Can be a bit fiddly... The needle hook timing should be mentioned in the manual. You can download it here: https://www.consew.com/Resources/

depends on condition, if motorized, if with stand or just the head, what accessories are included... some pictures may help. The 45K21 came ex factory with a roller foot. If it is included it is worth $80-100 alone.

I would check the foot bar height, make sure it has full contact with the needle plate when lowered. I would also check the height of the feed dog (maybe set too low?) and the condition of the under side of the presser foot as mentioned before. My 2 cents

The 26 is based on a Nakajima / Juki 341 AFAIK so this could helpful if Leather Machine Company has none: Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual_compressed.pdf Nakajima-321L-341L-Parts_compressed.pdf

Alright - thanks for that. I always feared the machine would be to heavy for "just hanging" on the table plate. I was thinking of approx the same construction but going from left to right and hanging on the machine stand and not on the plate. If you don´t mind please post some more pictures Nice solution for the speed reducer too! I will keep that in mind IF I ever find the time and patience and parts to set up the Singer 7.

never heard of MITZI but I also think its based on a Mitsubishi maybe a LT-2 or LU-2 of some kind just with a longer bed. Hope this helps. EDIT: when looking at pictures / videos of MITZI (MITZI kinda sound like a pole dancers stage name ) and Mitsubishi it seems the machine is using the Singer type gauge sets for different needle spaces. Thats good cause they are available fairly cheap. This is a download link for a LU-2 - maybe there are other LU-2 manuals for other sub classes but I think this is very close already. https://www.supsew.com/download/Mitsubishi/Mitsubishi LU2-4410, -4430 Instruction Manual.pdf

Thats true - thats how a new member starts - with one post. Thanks for the hint cause I just figured by today I´m 10 years here (had to check my own profile ) - so congratulations to my self. Poor me - no one else noticed that, no presents, no candles, no nothing - poor me . (again ***kidding*** - I better mention this) BTW - I do not consider the number of posts as some sort of rank or as an asset. I do not need that and I´m not hunting for likes (just in case you think so). And it is okay not to like me - you can put me on an ignore list and you no longer have to read what I write (not kidding). https://leatherworker.net/forum/ignore/ << hope this helps Yeah, THIS was a little rude - maybe - but only because I think we have a useless and fruitless discussion about sensitivities and it will make it easier for you to ignore me. If you are just leaving because of me - well then leave if you think a single member of several thousand (I guess) is a reason to leave because he is not able to deal with your sensitivities. Just put me on the ignore list. Hope you enjoy your day.

Noticed the bla bla smiley? That was a fun comment. You for sure know the purpose of smileys, right? Maybe this one was not obvious enough for you. And you may have noticed this: I know almost nothing about domestic sewing machines. I don´t use them cause they have no practical use for me. Yeah, photo fooled me too cause we usually (I underlined it) talk about industrial / heavy sewing machines for the leather trade here and not domestic sewing machines. But again - we figured it is not left standing so this is done - or not? Sorry but IMO you overreact here a little bit. Anyway - can we stop this and go BTT?

Nice Adler 20 !!! Can you take some pictures of the underside meaning how you "sunk" the machine in the table or with other words the bracing the machine is sitting on. I still have a Singer 7 kicking arround for a long time and its time to set it up and I would like to have it flat as yours.

what I would NOT do it pulling out the top shaft and removing the inner cam and the cam on the front end if not really accessory. Better use a brush and some solvent like paint thinner or kerosene for cleaning these parts.

Reg. the check spring - check this (extract from the manual)

Don`t go over the pin at the tension discs. Some folks do it (for what ever reason) but most don´t. In the manual the thread does NOT go over the pin. Then your bobbin case opener is not correctly adjusted, it does not pull back the bobbin case to make space for the thread to slide between needle plate notch and the small tab on the bobbin case . Reg. skipping stitches I would check the needle hook timing. I assume the needle bar a a little bit to high and / or the hook tip it too far away form the needle. You also have to check the check spring it appears to be set way too low. Also when starting to sew hold the 2 thread ends slightly tense for 2-3 stitches. Timing values are in the manual (guess you have one). If not I attach one for the 111G156 the values are the same as for your machine. Sorry its blurry cause I had to compress it. If you need a better quality PDF send me a PM with email address so I can forward it. Manual Singer 111G156_compressed.pdf