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Constabulary

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Everything posted by Constabulary

  1. Singer 29K1 or 29K4 manuals will work for the 29K3 as well. There is not a major difference. Maybe a side wheel or a wax pot but nothing really important when is comes to threading or sewing.
  2. Please post pictures of your machine from the underside. I have a Singer 132K6 which is the predecessor of the SK-6. On my 132K6 there is a bushing for the hook drive shaft that is held in place by a set screw. I think when you loosen the set screw you can try to move (hammer) the bushing carefully to the right a little bit so you can move the hook a bit to the right as well. The set screw is probably covered by the bobbin case retainer assembly so you have to remove this first. If there is an adjustment ring on the right side of the bushing loosen its set screw first. I don´t know your machine but that's what I would try.
  3. Its down for quite a while. I have no contact data, sorry. I guess he is out of bushiness or maybe even passed away - I don´t know.
  4. I seriously doubt that there is a major difference between any of the Juki 341 clones. They are all made in China and I doubt there are as many factories that makes them as there are "brand names" that sells them. From what I read Atlas Sewing Machine Co. has a very good reputation. IMO it all depends on how well the machines are set up and how well they are supported by the brand name owner / dealer. I doubt that any of the 341 clones will wear out sooner or last longer than others. If you are new to sewing machines I would buy from a dealer with a good reputation and that is close to you just in case you have troubles that you cannot solve by your self. Sending sewing machines back for service is always a risk so you either service them by your self or you better take it to the dealer by your self. Packing up sewing machines properly is quite a task. Do not expect they will be handled carefully so packaging is the key and shipping is expensive! Since you are in Denver why don´t you check with Ralph´s Power Sewing, they are in Denver! https://powersew.com/ I´m sure they have 341´s too with just a different mane on it. Maybe even used original Juki 341´s.
  5. I once owned a 7-10 IIRC I have used 794 needles. However - have you tried them? Even if it is not set up for 794 needles you can adjust the needle bar height to make them work. thats a tiny domestic machine I´m sure nothing from it will work on your 7-10 beast
  6. I´ll respond to your PM later - anyway the website for the Adler Parts is down for quite a while already. This is the dead link: http://altenaehmaschine.de/ I deleted it from my bookmarks a few month ago.
  7. BTW your bobbin winder looks as if it is incomplete and from a different machine. Maybe worth checking the 45K bobbin winders too https://www.ebay.de/itm/156265077932?
  8. The tension unit remained the same so it is the same on all 29 / 29K machines at least on the most common ones that I have seen. More pictures you´ll find in the thread I have linked in the 3rd post above. I no longer have this 29K1.
  9. I´m not 100% sure but could be that Singer 45K bobbins fit - I´d compare the measures. https://www.ebay.de/itm/143603147753
  10. well, the tension unit looks odd too.... I cannot tell what the silver parts are but they do not belong there.
  11. a few things I noticed... The thumbscrew + lock nut for the foot pressure leaf spring are missing. You have a plain screw instead which for sure is too short. So you cannot adjust the foot pressure. I think (!) you have a wrong foot lift lever on your machine. I think (!) your machine should have the "push down lever" - not sure if you know what I mean but some of the early 29K had a different lever for lifting the foot that you have to push down instead of lifting to lift the presser foot Some one cut a slit in the slider or modified the slider somehow. There should be just 1 slit for the leaf spring and that the is the lower one. The slider also looks modified. the lower end should be squared and not rounded. Usually here should be a spring that hold the "push down lever" in place IMO I think some one tried to fix the machine and made is worse. Please post pictures of the front side. Not sure if you can get it to work with the wrong & modified parts but 1st thing I would try is to place the leaf spring the in lower slit of the slider. BUT I think then the leaf spring will not hold in place because you do not have the correct thumbscrew + lock nut installed. So wrong / missing and modified parts are the main reason why the machine is not properly working. Long time ago I restored a 29K1. You find some pictures that show how the correct parts are positioned in this thread: Hope this helps
  12. Please post pictures of your machine then we know if it the 1st or 2nd type 51w
  13. looks like a clone of the Singer 45K21, drop feed with roller foot.
  14. I´d choose the BROTHER - clone of a Singer 153w (but with reverse) or the later Seiko CW-8 and / or Consew 227R. Its a Singer based machine and parts will be available probably for ever and the accessories like presser feet sets are cheap.
  15. Is it a synchronized binder machine? If yes you may need a fixed (not moving) arm plate. Most likely you will have to modify the hemming attachment and maybe plate to make it work. Please post pictures.
  16. If it was me I would use heavy Denim or Canvas with some leather application (for pockets and straps).
  17. if it has to be a left stand machine look for Pfaff 24 or 27, Adler 49 . alternatively Singer 17, Pfaff 28, Adler 48 (all right stand)
  18. I only see one picture and that looks good to me except that you have not insert a needle . Sewing machines sew better with needles **kidding**. Have you checked the manual? Thats usually the 1st thing I would do.
  19. I have seen Frobanas in slightly different color shades. Maybe that is because of their age or if they were exposed to different "environments". The latest I have seen where hammer tone silver.
  20. are both of them piping feet and are they for the same piping thickness? I think feet for thicker pipings are probably shorter but it´s a guess.
  21. If your motor is an old clutch motor you will not have much fun with it (often too fast and noisy). Better replace it with a modern servo motor and maybe add a speed reducer. Or check this thread maybe this motor is a good option for you
  22. Unfortunately Pfaff has no "counterpart" and you have to use their gauge parts. When you want to change the needle distance you need a complete gauge set that includes presser foot, fed dog, needle plate and needle holder. Pfaff gauge sets are hard to find and even when you find them they will be quite expensive. When it comes to double needle machines I´d recommend a machine that is based on a Singer machines, like Juki, Seiko, Consew and so forth. Singer based gauge parts are available everywhere and they are cheap. Check the list of manufacturers in the description here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/142635430976
  23. I would check for SUTTON or McKay stitchers, IIRC Pederson models are sometimes very similar if not identical. Just what I have observed from the shoe making guys. Maybe even BUSM / British United Shoe Machinery, MOENUS, ALBEKO or PROTOS.
  24. Is it just test sewing what we see or is it a piece of a product you are sewing? Why should a post bed machine with a single row feed dog and a roller foot sew a fairly large piece of material straight when not guiding the material with your hands? What product do you want to produce? Maybe wrong machine for the job? You do not give us many information...
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