Constabulary

Different machine but basically the same thing. Some years ago I made a flat bed attachment for my Singer 45D91 from a IKEA bamboo cutting board. Super low cost (less than 20€ / $22) very sturdy and it has IMO it has a nice look. To be fair the cutting board idea back then came from LW member UWE. He made them way more professional than I but I was able to make it with the tools I have. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72789-singer-45d91-restoration/?tab=comments#comment-552472 https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/aptitlig-cutting-board-bamboo-80233430/ This is what UWE did https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65589-flatbed-table-attachment-for-pfaff-335/ I also made one from screen printing plate for my Singer 108w20 but to be honest I have never used it. That one was cheap also...

maybe loose set screw on the wheel?

does not help much - better upload the Video to Youtube and post a link here.

A buddy once told me there were different JD green shades.

IIRC the 217 came with 2 different cam readers. I think the later model is the 217N and it is using larger cams. Which one do you have please post some pictures.

no reverse lever so it is the 225 then. Needle size depends on the thread thickness you want to use.

Swing aside the top cover. You will see a dial with the stitch length numbers on it. Loosen the set screw of the dial push down the plunger in the flat bed and dial in the longest stitch length (5SPI it should be) then rotate the dial until you can see the 5 in the window then tighten the set screw again - and done. You maybe have to play with the position of the dial a little bit.

Yes, very similar to Singer 31K. This machine has a CB hook and wheel feed instead of a feed dog and a swing aside roller foot.The needle plate is missing, I hope you have it. If not then it will not sew. Finding a spare will be challenging I guess since the wheel feed Pfaff 34 were not very common. Here is a parts list for the 34, scroll down to the page 33/34 for the specific 34-5 parts. Pfaff_34.pdf

different thread size means different number of revolutions. Hmmm. I think I will stick with my DIY one that automatically stops when the bobbin is full no matter what thread size.

buy some leather scraps for testing. I never bought a hide. I just buy scraps. Often good enough for what I do.

sorry - it was a 250 / 27 needle I just checked.

Good question. I think it depends on how soft the material is. I have sewn some leather handles with linen thread a while ago. This is how it looks. Thread size unknown (old wooden spool) but I used a 280 / 28 needle. The holes are pretty well filled with the thread. Material is 10-11mm thick.

Foot pressure if often overlooked and folks keep it high when the last project required high foot pressure. Guess how I know (different machine though). I sew thick leather only now and then and I always do some tests before I start the project. Speaking of thread tension - a leather worker I know even has different hooks for different size thread and has marked the hooks with the specific thread size but he is using linen thread from one manufacturer only - no poly and no nylon. To me the needle holes still look fairly large - or not?

You are welcome. Its interesting fro me too to figure where to get bits for upcoming projects. Always good to have cross references especially for these very old machines. Fortunately Singer continued using certain parts so the chances are good to find even some of the "odd parts". Keep us posted with the restoration progress of your machine.

Playing with top and bottom thread tension and adjusting foot pressure is part of the sewing game when sewing different thicknesses or using different thread / needle sizes. You have to practice this. You just need as much foot pressure that the materials is not lifted by the rising needle. To me the needle holes look fairly large but I have not used D point needles. My preferred needle is the S point needle for having a straight seam look.

so is it a DIY or have you bought it as is on Ebay. How about a link or some explanations of what you did?

sorry - forget my last posts I just noticed the 2 videos with and without roller.

Saturday morning on my side of the pond... raining again... so I did some more research I found a complete tension unit that most likely fit your machine cause it is for the Singer 12w which is W&W based as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304633314716 And therefore this check spring should work for you as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304633311966 I also figured the parts number for the bobbin case tension spring: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293335114642 How have I figured this - well there is a 51w100 post bed machine and it is the old style 51w and it has a parts list... Bobbin case is the same as on my 51w so I would guess the other parts are the same as well so I googled the numbers and found the parts on Ebay. All to my best knowledge - cross check if you want. SINGER 51W100.pdf

just checked the 31k Parts list. Is this roller 1904 probably missing? https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1904-roller-for-nbar-con-stud-singer.html

to me it looks like as if there is missing a roller or slide block.

As I said before the machine sits in the box and I drop the box in the table cutout of my singer 111G156 which has an under table servo motor and I just put on a longer drive belt. The 212G141 it self has no motor installed. No hard cover no handles. When it is not in use I put a soft cover on it.

The 128 needles for this machine have a smaller shaft diameter (1.75mm IIRC) but maybe someone already changed the needle bar before and you can use 2mm shaft needles. Just try it. The needles from your Singer 17 may work. The Singer 17 is using 16x231 (and similar) needles which have a 1.62mm shaft thats why they may fit. But due to the different shaft diameter the needle is a little bit further away from the hook tip so that could cause problems with catching the thread loop. My intention was the use of 2mm shaft needles. Thats why I changed the needle bar. If you buy a new needle bar then keep in mind that I have drilled the casting and installed a longer top bushing to guide the shorter needle bar I have used. I have not found a longer needle bar. Not saying there is none but I have found none. Regarding tension disks - you can use tension discs from a Singer 107w or 111w they have the cutout for the stop pin too. You need two of them part number is #244048. The 3rd disc you need is the tension release washer with the small tab across the center hole. Part number is 204271 (lower left corner in your picture).

The reason why I changed the needle bar is that I now can use more the common needles with a 2mm round shaft. They are easier to find and most of my machines were already set up for 135x17 / 135x16 needles. So I do not have to stock lots of different needle systems and different sizes. I just stock 135x17 and 135x16 and I can use them in what ever machine I want. You of course have to adjust the needle hook timing then (basically the needle bar height) but that's the same procedure as on all other plain straight stitch sewing machines. If you have done this before it won´t be a big problem. The check springs + tensions springs are quite a bit smaller than f.i. the ones for the 111w or similar. I can post pictures tomorrow.

Don´t give up alreday - you still have options, lets try to work on this. I`m using this feed dog and needle plate set on my machine, I guess it will work on yours too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143603162021 Regarding stitch leght. I have removed the silver limiter on my machine that is held by the slotted screw in below picture and got a longer stitch length. Do have this limiter too? Please post pictures of where parts are missing. I probably have some bits. I can cross check that on my machine then. I have the OEM bobbin case with tension spring but I do not need it cause I installed a different hook from a Dürkopp machine. But if Bob Kovar has parts then even better. BTW - the machine is Wheeler & Wilson based so I would check for W&W parts too. F.i. I would guess the check spring unit form this face plate could fit and seems it has the upper thread guide too: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234949782474 or check Ebay for other W&W parts I think I have spare check springs... I can check that tomorrow.

Juki 563 is excellent and 562 as well, the 563 has a larger bobbin. Both share accessories and certain pats with the Singer 111. Seiko STW-8B is another good machine and Singer 111 based as well.