bushpilotmexico

Recently bought a Vevor servo motor on Amazon to replace the clutch motor on my Pfaff 138 sewing machine. Straight forward installation but I guess my Cobra 4 had me spoiled. By that I mean after Googling on speed control seems like Dave at the Leather Factory modifies the servo before sale with a simple addition to the optical speed control this allows me to walk through (sew) an item a stitch at a time or speed up for a straight run. Not knowing that my Cobra was modified and assuming this was normal for a servo I was surprised to find out that the Vevor, even set for 100 stitches per minute wouldn't allow me to slow it down on start and sew one stitch at a time. I found a video on YouTube showing the modification that can be done to fool the optical sensor with a small piece of paper. Question is, and I haven't been able to contact Vevor, is their speed control optical or magnetic? I know someone will say that I should just open the control and look inside but I'm always leery to open something and have parts spring out all over. If it's magnetic then my only option would be a speed reducer attached to the servo. I have been watching the DIY'ers using pillow bearings and various size pullies but I don't have a shop for welding, fabricating etc. If the Vevor isn't optical and I can't use the "fool the sensor with paper trick" would anyone know where I can buy the two pully reducer and bearings ready to mount? I can't make a mount from steel but could make one out of wood to attach to the table.

Does thread make a difference? 90% of my sewing with my Cobra 4 is using black or brown 277/207 bonded nylon. When I switch to white 277/207 that I bought from the Leather Factory the bobbin thread comes to the top. I can decrease top tension and increase bobbin tension but no luck. I can then replace white with brown 277/207 and it sews perfectly.

Are you self taught or did you take some classes? Nice work, I envy you.

Looks great...I have always wanted to carve leather and wish I had the talent.

Here are a few close ups, as always the close ups show not only the detail but the "Persian flaws" slight mis-stamping, etc. Better next time (:

I'll try and take some close ups of the cylinder pouch and possibles bag. I appreciate all the +'ve comments.

I decided when I made the belt, because of problems in the past with sizing, that I was going to make the tongue extra long. This belt will fit a 37" waist thru to the last hole which is 46".

Just finished this rig, the holster fits the 1851 Colt Navy, the 1860 Colt Army and all conversions of these pistols. Made all the patterns up myself after looking at various photos on the Internet just to get some ideas. It has a spare cylinder pouch and a small possibles bag attached.

Just finished this small cross body bag. I got the pattern from http://www.leathercraftpattern.com/leather-downloadable-patterns/Leather-bag-patterns/leather-bag-pattern-vegetable-tanned-leather-bag-patterns-cross-body-bag-pattern-bag-sewing-pattern-PDF-instant-download-ACC-05 for $6.99. It was downloadable and I printed it out on my Canon printer. As always being the first one it has the Persian flaw and was a learning lesson. I had to sew most of it by hand with the exception of the straps, the Cobra 4 made easy work of those.

I appreciate your comments. Thanks, Cliff

Hi Tom, The bag is made of 7/8 oz leather except for the gusset which is 2/3 oz and all pieces including the gusset are lined with 2/3 oz leather. Lyman had his article in the Sept/Oct issue of the Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal and said that he got the idea for the concealed carry bag from the 2015 May/June issue where Bob Klenda wrote about instructions for a "saddlebag style purse". Lyman modified the design to make it look more masculine and deepened it to accommodate his S&W model 686. Inside the purse sewn onto the back panel is a piece of 6-8 oz leather shaped to take the belt clip which he sews onto the back of the holster designed for his S&W. Living in Arizona he writes that he prefers to carry his pistol in the bag rather than concealed on his hip.. Personally I own a Glock Model 17 so I intend to make a holster to fit it. Cliff

I appreciate all your positive comments. I have learned so much from my fellow members of Leatherworker.net, all your help, comments and tips since I joined have been much appreciated.

The late fall issue of the Leather Crafters Journal had an article written by Lyman Avery and an enclosed pattern for his concealed carry bag. Finished it up last night and generally pleased with the way it turned out. Every project is a learning experience. I intended to sew the complete bag with my Cobra 4 but as I started to piece it together realized that I would have to hand sew the gusset to the front and back panels. Not overly pleased with how the antiquing turned out but the general finish seemed to work out OK.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention guess I fliped the pattern backwards when I drew up the double pouch design.

Once again muchas gracias for the patterns....just finished these up. I took the liberty of extending the mag pouch pattern to accommodate a double and added the accent piece with the basket weave.

Finished the buscadero belt today and used Bianchi's technique to slide the back flap through the slot.

I had used a fair amount of neatsfoot oil prior to dying(more than usual) and I think it softened the surface of the leather.

Finished my Paladin holster today and for the first time making a holster I got some wrinkling in the leather just below the trigger guard and about half way down the stitching line.

Hi Dwight, I am lining with 2/3 oz and I basically use the same technique as you by cementing then when flat using a roller. I guess the wrinkles are because when I fold, sew and then open the holster the inside radius is less than the outer and the excess lining leather has to go somewhere because it's being compressed on the short radius and voila when I look inside I see wrinkles. Now to be honest I'm using 8/9 oz for the holster body and the last two I made I was able to open them up without wet forming, just by squeezing. The one I am making now I will wet form to see if that solves the wrinkle problem. Using Jim Simmons technique you won't see a wrinkle because as you cement on the curve starting at the toe of the holster all the excess lining material is moved to the outside and is trimmed later.

Jim Simmons, who is a great guy, told me that he only wet formed the very first holster he made. Jim's technique is to fasten the 2/3 oz liner by sections. First he fastens the liner to the holster just cemented down the center line which is around a 1' width. Then he rolls the leather of the holster body and fastens the liner against the curve, first one side and then the other. This gives the holster it's form and also prevents wrinkling when the holster is sewed. This doesn't present a problem when hand sewing but it's a horse of a different color when machine sewing because of the curves involved.. The last holster i made I just cemented the liner to the holster body and went ahead and machine sewed, luckily I didn't have to wet form but yes the wrinkles appeared in the liner. Would anyone have any suggestions I'm definitely getting the hang of my Cobra 4 and with my arthritic fingers don't want to have to go back to hand sewing.

I did buy the Premium package but am only using the right or left presser foot and the plate that came with the machine. To be honest as a newbie I haven't used any of the other plates. I don't know if the slotted plate is the one that came with the machine? Holster Plate $156* Stirrup Plate $156* Slotted Plate $85* Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150*

Hi Josh, They fit the Colt 1911, Springfield, Remington and any clones.. Thanks, Cliff

Finally getting the hang of my Cobra 4 sewing machine.

Thanks Art Cliff

Thanks Art, I did try a test piece and it seemed to work but I guess was kind of wondering about how it would last long term, if there would be a reaction. That test piece had some Fiebings antique paste over some basket weave stamping. I guess I didn't wait long enough for the paste to dry. When I applied the Resolene it must have dissolved some of the paste as I could see it turning a little British Tan. How long would you recommend that I should allow the paste to dry before top coating it, I'm kind of thinking now about 24 hours? Thx