SooperJake

I've broken 3 #1 harness needles this week. I bought needles from two well known vendors and unfortunately mixed them, so I have no idea if it is all from one vendor or not. What I haven't figured out yet is, where the heck the top loop of the needle ends up. It isn't in the hole, as far as I can tell. I also note that some needles have slightly different hole sizes even though they are listed as the same size. I now eyeball them and get the right size, depending on if I use 6 or 5 linen thread. It must be a brand difference. Jake

Looks great George! Jake

and with lacing (bought decent lace from Springfield). Roger Nice job! Which lace is it, Roger? Jake

They look pretty good, Dave. Very distinct shape. Stitch spacing could be tighter.....loops a a tad thin.... molding and workmanship look nice! Jake

Hell, George..just send me the gun and the holster and move on.... problem solved... Jake

Eric, I have used the diamond stitching punches but I spent a couple hours in total sharpening and polishing them, which also made a much smaller hole ( and a weaker prong). They came in a Tandy bag but I ordered them from Springfield. 2mm will mimic 6spi . I bought two 4-prong punches from Springfield, and ground off the two outside prongs on one to make a two punch. Reason being, I have another set from Tandy, earlier, and the thickness of the two are way off, so the holes look like hell. (That was a 4mm set I started with). You want a two prong and a four prong at least, so you can always index off an existing hole accurately. I would add a single also, for fudging in between holes as you come to an end, for instance. If I buy anymore of these, I'd look for Seiwa brand, which are sold by Goods Japan online as told above, and Ebay. I have not seen the smaller sizes on Ebay, though. That's one of the few tools Seiwa makes that looks different than what you get from Tandy and the like. And, at least it isn't made in China. I've purchased a number of tools from Springfield that came in a Tandy bag, which really irritated me. They were cheaper at Tandy with my discount. Jake

Airbrushing is the most uniform coverage method I've used yet for applying dye . Fiebing's alcohol based dye is practically dry on contact. On areas where the dye absorbs a little more ( or less) the airbrush can be set to barely fog on additional dye. Well worth the investment. It can be used to even out a blotchy dauber job too. And the airbrush can be used for tons of other projects around the house. Ever have to paint close around a window? Run Chapstick on the glass perimeter and paint the muttons or window frame with the airbrush, for example. Scrape the Chapstick and paint off with a flat razor. You'll never tape off a window again. Jake

I would dye before stitching. And get an airbrush if you haven't already. The results are spectacular over dauber dying. Jake

I guess the second half of my question was redundant.

Has anyone tried using their vacuum press to mold a metal reinforcement already sewn inside the holster or is the slide area pre-bent by hand prior to sewing? Jake

Is there brown dye on the holster then a top coat? Brown is a mixture of red and green. That could be the source of the green hue. I've had undyed Tandy leather leather leave a brown smudge on my dampening sponge. Here is a link to an instruction on color mixing, with a blip on brown http://home.comcast....IO/COLORSYS.htm Keep making them, you're doing great! Jake

Define a "tight budget" in dollars, Jdbfish... Jake

By the way, if you get in on your hands, wait 30 seconds and it will peel right off. http://www.tearmende...erialSafety.pdf THOSE ALLERGIC TO LATEX TAKE HEED..IT IS LIQUID LATEX Jake

I couldn't find a related thread so I thought I'd share a new find. I picked up a 16oz bottle of Bish's original Tear Mender at the local hardware store( not cheap, about $19 with tax). It is listed as "Instant Fabric and Leather Adhesive" and claims a 3 minute drying time. Other claims include waterproof, permanent, quick drying, flexible, UV resistant, and acid free.Machine washable in 15 minutes. It is milky white and has a mild smell of urea or maybe ammonia. Not quite water thin, but is clear in a minute or so when applied. I applied it with a dauber on a couple 6 sq in pieces of scrap leather and it was tacky before I finished painting each piece. I waited a couple minutes with one set , and with another set, put them right together. Wow. it tacks fast. The smell is gone in about a minute, and the stuff sticks pretty much right away. I was hoping it actually would give 3 minutes for extra positioning time but it really doesn't. The dauber will clean if you wash it in water right away. The bonded leather can be pulled apart with considerable effort, but then, so can Weldbond contact cement. The big difference I can see it the Bish's is a real rubbery like residue once separated, and you could, with some time, clean your leather pieces off by pulling up the glue residue. So,, your pieces wouldn't necessarily be lost if they stick together wrong. It does NOT appear to pull flesh leather up in the glue in my preliminary pull-apart tests. I've got a piece soaking in water now for waterproof testing. I may shelve my smelly old Weldbond. http://www.tearmender.com/ Jake

I found a quick way to make / melt wax finishes is to use one of those pitchers with the internal heat plate. You can get one at any X-mart of your choice. They are around 15 -20 bucks, and boil water about 60% faster than a microwave. I've used this method for hide glue and wood finishes for years and it works fantastic for any oil/wax combination. Just save and clean a soup can or whatever size can will fit in the pitcher to melt your potion in, and pull it out of the hot water with pliers. Jake

I think you mean these folks, Dwight Streicher's Police Equipment | 10911 W. Hwy 55 Minneapolis, MN 55441 http://www.policehq.com/

Bruce, do you run the stitching groover more than once to deepen the groove? Thanks, Jake

I've seen pictures of several stitching horses that have the jaws angled, typically to the left of the user. Is there any special purpose for this? The reasoning I could come up with has to do with keeping a more obtuse angle on the leather tension strap on a horse, and for a pony, more light in to see the stitching groove. What is the reason for the angling? The gentleman this Hermes video showing hand stitching has the jaws of his very long stitching pony laying severely over,as if in his lap. And the jaws look to be held shut with leg pressure. He never looks at the back of his work so how in the world would he be certain the awl has passed into the back groove correctly? Is there a stitching groove on both sides do you think? Is a stitching groove absolutely necessary? Thanks, Jake

Very nice work, JR. Does the retention adjustor apply that much extra pressure over a straight fit? Or, is the idea to make the draw a little loose when wet molding, and then snug up on the trigger guard? I have no experience with a leather rig + retention screw is why I ask. Jake

I heard many years ago that Sno-Seal degraded stitching over time. I heeded the warning so can't confirm or deny it. It does contain mineral spirits.

Thanks all, for the ideas. Jake

I just found your post and wanted to say thank you. I have no idea how to make these letters but I really like the style. I need to try my hand at some carving/stamping. Jake

http://hightemperaturefabric.com/ What about cutting up a welding glove for a liner? Jake

The rubber surface I meant is a very thin material that would substitute for rubber cement. So, you are saying you use rubber cement and bond the leather directly to the granite, after it has been properly cased. TO? I really appreciate your indepth answers, and everyone's answers here. Experience beats the stuffing out of any book! Jake