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Everything posted by SooperJake
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Burnish Marks From Wet Molding
SooperJake replied to SooperJake's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Would it also be true,then, that casing for tooling is done only from the grain side, because you want to glue the leather down to cardboard to keep it from stretching? These damn books need to be rewritten. On one page they say to wet the leather from both sides, and two pages later they tell you to glue the leather down and wet from the grain side, which I have to assume can make the cardboard soggy? Has anyone tried tooling on a rubberized surface vs. glueing the leather down? Something like drawer lining or rubberized router mat material comes to mind. Not the original threads purpose, I know, but it is all about casing and my confusion. Jake -
Hybrid Holsters
SooperJake replied to David C Gindrup's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
This leather lines kydex holster looks pretty nice..Loctite 300...but there is no detail about how it is holding up. http://www.kydexforum.com/thread-857.html -
Sheath for karambit 07.jpg
SooperJake commented on ifoo's gallery image in Our Leatherwork Galleries
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Any idea what it is, JW? Jake
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The coating I saw and am referencing is a kind of grey almost rubbery looking or maybe like latex paint. There was still a slight nap on the flesh side, and I figured the coating was meant to hide some of this. I didn'y buy one, despite finding a very nice looking piece, because I was unsure of how it would wet mold, and the answer I got at the store was not reassuring enough. Can gum tragacanth be grey? and, will a thinner lining stick to the back with contact cement, or does the trag need to be removed? Thanks, Jake
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202268_503267886365715_1502461497_o.jpg
SooperJake commented on Jarrett V's gallery image in Our Leatherwork Galleries
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I was at Tandy the other day and looked at their 8-9oz Premium Double Shoulders. There is a coating on the back of them and the folks working their really couldn't elaberate on what it was, or how it effected working with it. Does anyone have any recent experience with these hides and can you shed some light on this subject? How does it wet mold, for instance? Thanks, Jake
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Burnish Marks From Wet Molding
SooperJake replied to SooperJake's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
No pun intended but I go the impression that casing for wet molding a holster was much less wet than for tooling. Perhaps I haven't waited long enough after wetting after all, or not enough moisture. I typically dunked it in lightly soaped water for 5 to 10 seconds then let the leather return to a natural color. I will re-read Bob's artickle too. Time to experiment....hop hop hop... Thanks Jake -
Burnish Marks From Wet Molding
SooperJake replied to SooperJake's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Share a little about your casing procedure if you would... and thanks! Jake That should get you headed in the right direction, but remember to experiment on some scrap to get your oven temp/time right. ETA : If you're not using a vacuum sealer, you can do the whole boning bit inside of a regular (ziploc) bag....just be sure you properly case the leather. Mike -
Burnish Marks From Wet Molding
SooperJake replied to SooperJake's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
watched again...I definitely have been dragging the tools more than Eric does in his video. Maybe that's it. Press more drag less. Leather still has to be part of the problem. -
Okay, I'm happy with placing the stitch line, and my hand sewing is progressing nicely. What baffles me now is wet molding. Specifically burnish marks. I get great retention, the gun is well centered, and so on. But, one swipe with a boning tool or highly polished antler tine and my leather darkens and shines like polish. I figure it is a casing issue? Quality of the leather? This is raw leather with no dye. Too wet, too dry, didn't wait long enough after wetting, waited too long, not enough soap in the water, didn't hold my tongue right, did it on a Sunday instead of a Thursday? What the hell is the trick? I've watched Eric's video half a dozen times. I watched Bianchi's a couple times. Read and reread about casing. HELP! Jake
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How do I make a Cartridge Belt Slide?
SooperJake replied to Larry's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Do you happen to have a picture of the back of these, Dave? Jake -
Is My Stitch Line Ok?
SooperJake replied to J Hayes's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
For visual consistency I'd tighten up the middle section, and a little bit along the barrel. Retention is most paramount, followed by aesthetics. At least that's what I have learned from this forum and elsewhere. I've been studying lots of websites for just this sort of thing. You can find website links on people's posts here in the holster section of the forum. Jake -
Hybrid Holsters
SooperJake replied to David C Gindrup's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Has anyone tried lining the kydex to protect the finish? A 2 oz leather would work wouldn't it? Jake -
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finally some wisdom hath spewed forth.. thank you all. Jake
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I just received my stamps from Grey Ghost this week and I'll give you a few tips. If you have any sort of design, like an outline or silhouette of something, say a penguin, you'll be better off if it is only the outline of a penguin, not a penguin in silhouette. My stamps offer much more resistance than I expected because there is possibly too much flat surface area in the design. I'll have to experiment with casing to see if I can improve the impression depth, and I'm going to make a very sturdy table for all punching/hammering to be done on. Also, be mindful of your font style and size. I have two words on the stamp of different font sizes ,and the smaller word on the 1 1/4" stamp, if struck too shallow, is hard to read. I approved the design on Saturday morning and the stamps arrived on Monday. How's that for fast service!? They are made of Delrin, by the way. Jake
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I'm curious as to how many of you get your holster stitch lines right on the first try, especially along the trigger guard? How many tries does your typical holster pattern require before it is "perfect"? Also, do you establish a base pattern style and then modify for the specific gun, or start each pattern from scratch? Thanks, Jake
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I assumed it was like shining shoes, the brush appearing to be some sort of similar horse hair type brush .I'm just shocked no one else on the forum had an idea. Jake
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Another New Plain Jane
SooperJake replied to Dwight's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
I don't think USMC black ever stops rubbing off. My first ( and probably last sing USMC dye) black dyed holster was done with it and it rubbed off readily two weeks later. Not until I applied a top coat did it stop. Thanks for the reply, Dwight. Jake -
Dan Wesson Holster
SooperJake replied to glockanator's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
interesting..iwb /owb combo? Jake -
Looking For 1 1/2" Brass Belt Tips
SooperJake replied to katsass's topic in Hardware and Accessories
http://www.sdtradingco.com/buckles/PaulsTips.htm These guys claim to have them, Mike. I've never order from them though. Jake