mdawson

Hey p51 Are you looking for those spring type that pop open, pop closed ? I found these with some terminology help from the people here. https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Metal-Internal-Flex-Frame-Kiss-Clasp-Lock.html?spm=a2g0o.home.search.0 And I found a bunch of how-tos on youtube by searching for flex frame. Mark

Thanks Zonker, based on Klara's help, I searched for 'flex frame kiss clasp' and spotted those but I didn't realise they 'locked' open, handy. Mark

Yep, that's the one thank you Klara. Now I know I can get them I can start planning :-) Mark

Hi I have seen in the past 'closures' where there are 2 pieces of spring steel in the mouth of a bag / pouch, squeeze the ends together and it pops open, release to close. I've been searching for it to find a name to find a source but of course without the name no luck. If someone could give me a name(s) so I can search for the blighters I'd be most grateful. Mark

I'd guess that it's actually reconstituted leather and if so the glue used to bind the leather fibres would likely prevent penetration of any oils or dyes.

Hey Gosut I've made a couple of batches of vinegroon but have been struggling to understand the chemistry, I forgot how to do all this stuff decades ago, never used it since high school. I wouldn't worry about the little extra vinegar you put in, unfortunately the strength written on the vinegar bottle is likely rounded off so the results are always going to be 'within experimental limits'. Looking forward to your conclusions in a week or so. Mark

Just wondering if anyone had tried a dead blow hammer in place of a mallet or maule. Opinions. I generally don't stamp but I quite like it for setting a few rivets or whatever. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_blow_hammer

As the OP mentioned the motor is binding and therefore would be drawing excess current, substituting a slow blow for a fast blow fuse could allow this excessive current to continue flowing, potentially burning out wiring in the motor instead of a cheap fuse.

Hi JC Weaver Leather just did a video on Enhancing Letter Stamps, not with colour as you're looking to do but by adding more stamps to make a sort of panel. Just another option. Mark

Hey Tequila I've had my target rifle in a sheepskin lined case for over 20 years with no problem, I imagine even after tanning the wool still retains some lanolin which would be helping to protect the rifle. On the subject of canvas, I have various types in my stash that I've accumulated over the years, some are quite hard and would not be good for the finish on a firearm, however, the softest is actually the cheapest and may be worth considering if you go down that path, from painters drop sheets. Mark

Looks like it's a 3mm spacing.

Boat chandlers have PVC sheet off the roll for bimini 'windows', our local, Whitworths (no connection) have 1.4m wide rolls, 0.75mm thick for $A24/m.

Not quite sure what you're asking for, the tension adjustment is the square knob shown in the 3rd picture, the cam lever is only used to release and retension when moving the leather, here's a view through the 'arms' so you can see the alignment. Added a view of it folded, I designed it on the fly, if I build another I'd make the base longer than the jaws to protect them.

Here's how I 'got around' the question of what size jaws, I simply made rotating / removable jaws. By backing off the screw they can be angled or rotated 90 to use the longer side or turned 180 to use a different jaw configuration. The basic jaw is 90mm wide, it's what I had in my shop. At the moment I haven't 'configured' the bottom jaw as I haven't yet had a need for a different configuration jaw but the last photo shows a jaw from the prototype which has a notch cut in it to fit around a previously fitted snap etc or to set down very soft material within the notch for support while it is being stitched. In the unlikely event I need something else I can always make up a new pair of jaws.

Sounds like a M16 thread, 2mm pitch. Mark