Ken Nelson

I would suggest you check the timing. Also, you might try a new needle. Mechanic once told me to put in a new needle whenever a sewing machine isn't sewing right. Good luck, hope this helps. Ken

I have a Tandy that is about 4 years old and it has been really good. Weaver sells one that is good and both carry all kinds of dies for them. If you buy at a Tandy store, you don't have to pay shipping and they come on sale periodically. Ken

Does anyone know where to purchase decals for vintage sewing machines? We are wanting to restore a couple of old machines and need new decals. Thanks Ken

If you check out some past posts, you can get the number for Ken Allen in New Mexico> He builds a super good one. Hope this helps. Ken

I bought a pristine 31-20 Singer and the mailman brought it today, brought the stand yesterday. They broke a peice off of the cast stand yesterday and today when I saw the box the head of the machine was in, I figured I was in trouble. They broke the foot (tab) off of the bottom of the machine. Flywheel side, the one that anchors the feed drive shaft. About 40% of the bolt threads are showing. The post office is being nasty even though it is insured. Local welder says the bed on sewing machine cannot be welded. Seller says you can split the head off of the bed and replace the bed. Advice on repairing this wreck? This machine is pristine and I would love to salvage it if at all possible. Thank you for any help I can get. Ken

I bought 2 heavy stitchers before I got one that would work for me. Part of my problem was I didn't know how to sew and the old machine, my first, was not easy to master and if I had known then what I do now, I would have changed some things and made it work for me. The next heavy stitcher was not an adequate, period. The third heavy stitcher was new, had a dealer to talk to and I still have it and it does a great job for me. First chap machine I bought was off of ebay and was a high speed drop feed, bad deal. Second was a real good walking foot, used, that had some issues from not taken care of properly and not serviced, Finally made it work for me but like to made me quit building chaps. I have had two new walking foot machines and have had terrific luck with both. I have a new Cobra that is wonderful. My advice to anyone would be: If you know how to sew and understand sewing machines, hunt a bargain if you don't mind the risk. If price is your main concern, and you don't have experience, then you probably will be better off buying a new or at least rebuilt machine from a dealer that specializes in leather sewing machines and has a reputation for service. There are several on this site that are very good guys. Just my 2 cents worth. Ken

Do you have roller feet for them and what is the cost. Needles, size and price. Thank you. Ken

Can anyone give me the scoop on a Singer 31-20 sewing machine? They look really cool and I have a really mint one located. Thanks Ken

We are working on a protype Edge Burnishing machine at the present. I will post as soon as we get it done and tested. Ken

Mr Allen lives at Arch, NM,. I don't have a phone # for him but you might drop him a line. The last I talked to him, he was planning on building some more stitching horses. Thay are very nice. Ken

I have one of these knives and really like it. Holds an edge really well and fits my hand just right. Ken

The machine I am talking about is a flatbed. Will it sew leather better with a roller foot than a regular foot?Thanks Ken

I am looking for a roller foot for a !04-2 Adler sewing machine. Anyone have any ideas as to availability and price. Thank you all. Ken

I use Studio 3 in Rapid City, SD. The lady does awsome work, makes a premium card and is very reasonable. Her cards draw a lot of favorable comments and her turn around is quick. If anyone wants her contacts, let me know and I will post it. I think the last batch I got was a bit over $85.00 for 1000. 2 sided card, photo and text on both sides. Ken

1500 Sq Ft building for sale in Valentine, NE next to auction barn. Building is 1 1/2 years old on over an acre lot. Frame building, finished with bathroom, electric heat and wood stove. plenty of windows for natural light.built in divider pony wall. Ceiling fans. Valentine is a quiet town of 2800 people, good schools. Western cow town with great hunting, fishing and lots of horse activities. I built this building for a saddle shop but relocated for wife's job. Good oportunity for a good saddlemaker. I will email you pics on request. phone days here is 575-356-3628. Ken Nelson

I agree with Bruce and a good point you make! I have had several first time new saddle owners call me up and tell me their new saddle was way too narrow for their horse. Rode it a few times and it fit fine. These real thick pads, in my opinion, cause way more problems than they ever fix. One of the best old cowboys I have ever known used to ride one double weave all wool blanket on most of the horses he rode. Once in a while you would see him with two double blankets on a horse. He did always have a narrow and a wider saddle just alike except for the gullet width. Which one he rode depended on what horse he rode. Never knew this man to have a sore backed horse and he rode a lot, roped a lot out in the open and worked in all kinds of country. He was also pretty picky about how the horses he raised and bought were made. Knew of him to cull a pretty nice colt for having too flat a back. My 2 cents worth. Ken

My Luberto's classic will sew an honest 1". I have it set pretty slow, which I like. I don't know if it does it as well as a hook and awl machine or not. Looks pretty good to me and I haven't had any complaints from any customers on the job of sewing I do on it. I also have a Cobra class 4. Don't know how much it will sew as I haven't put it to the test. Stitches look good though. both are easy to sew with. Ken

I finished this "LITTLE" project up early this morning and would like to share a little of it with you all. Of course, I done a clean and oil on it. Mostly clean as the leather is in really good shape on this saddle. I replaced the padded seat, resewed every seam on it as it had been sewn with, I presume Linen thread, without thread wax and all the stitching was in a sorry state.. I relined the skirts. I put in new skirt plugs in the back of the skirts as the original plugs were Cotton canvas. I was surprised to find the ground seat had what I think was body putty in it. It is now all leather from the strainer up.I replaced the stirrup leathers, not because the old ones were bad but they had been replaced at sometime and had had a poor job done of it. I built a new 5 inch contour flank cinch for it as well as new billets. One of the old billets was broken, they were unlined and I wanted full sized lined billets on it. I built a 5 inch flank for it as that width seems to be popular with a lot of people that frequent my shop. I replaced all the strings because it need a couple and thought it would look better will all new strings. The rope strap was broke off so I replaced it too. I put in 1/8 inch of foam in the padded seat and sewed in a pattern, which doesn't show up very well in the pics. When I got this saddle in, the skirts were rolled under a little in back but the new plugs took care of that just fine. I put new Harness rivets in the in-skirt rigging, not because they were bad, it just seemed like a good idea with every thing tore down. New latigoes in front. One thing I changed was the original billets were 1 1/2", and I made the new ones 1 3/4" to accomodate seamless buckles of that width. It is ready to go and I will see if a really nice youth saddle in excellent condition will work in my shop. If you have any questions, the shop # is 575-356-3628. Ken

How does it get along with pound spools of thread and or big bobbins? Ken

Ray, let me see if I can get this done tonight. Ken

I spaced out getting the pictures for you but there is a similiar on on a site kdraft. I run my bobbin winder with a belt off of a home sewing machine. I will try to remember to get a pic or two tomorrow. Sorry about forgetting. They are not difficult to build at all. I bought all new components when I built mine about 10 years ago. Used would work fine though. Ken

I will post a picture of the one I use tonight.I If you can scrounge the used stuff, it doesn't cost much, If I buy all the parts new, the Cost for materials is about $70. There are 2 on Ebay now, new, one costs between 60 and $70., The other they are asking $198.00 + shipping. If I were to build one up, with my labor, I would have to have $125.00 + shipping. Ken

No problem, I will get some pics of it tomorrow and post them tomorrow night. I might even make up a couple and sell them if some people are interested. They work really good. Ken

Ray, I built a bobbin winder that I like better than any commercial one I have ever had and had 2. It uses a industrial bobbin winder, the kind that runs off the drive belt on a Toro 3000. I hooked it up to a household sewing machine motor and does it ever work good. I will get a picture of it tomorrow if you like and send it to you I have it mounted on a cabinet and can fill a bobbin just a few seconds. Ken

I got a nice compliment on a belt I was wearing a while back and told that it is a very nice belt for a homemade one. I replied that anyone could probably make one like it if they have a shop like mine and get to practice working with leather 6 days a week like people like me do. Point I want to make here is this: I have no doubt you did a splendid job for your sister. Problem is most rank amateurs think their cards look just fine and they are doing the same level of work as a professional does. Truth is a few of them will do a nice job, the rest................. Just my 2 cents worth. Ken