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prc77ro

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Everything posted by prc77ro

  1. prc77ro
    you could try some saddle soap. And just my 2cents worth, i use the Angelus dyes, Angelus Acrylic clear, and the Angelus Antique. I'm still new to the finishing part so I am waiting on feed back from the performance of some of my items, but I can say that I am pleased with my results so far. I did find out that with the acrylic clear it works better 50/50 with water and brushed on smaller projects and airbrushed on with an auto detail sprayer for larger projects. I'm still playing around with the antique, the last holster I did with it i got a similar effect as your first two photos, but as the dye is alcochol based i just used the dye thinner and it took everything of all the raised areas and the holster turned out awsome. One last thing i do before applying the clear acrylic is I apply a good layer of Lexol and really rub it in good and allow it to dry thorughly.
  2. prc77ro
    They both look terrific. I like how the second one looks old, I think its a great look. On the first one though, it looks as though the buckle was installed incorrectly, the leather end is going around the end of the buckle instead of around the center bar?
  3. prc77ro
    If you are using an awl, it looks like you don't have the angle quite right, also a groover will make a big difference with helping your front stitches lay neatly in the front.
  4. prc77ro

    current project: a OWB for a Kimber 1911....still waiting on materials :(

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. ReneeCanady

      ReneeCanady

      :) Gotta love the waiting part ugh
    3. prc77ro

      prc77ro

      I hate the waiting part, got the Military rank carved in the stiffener, dyed, and stitched on, now just waiting on the 2-3oz liner......maybe by wednesday..sorry about the acronyms

    4. LNLeather

      LNLeather

      No Prob... I did a search and figured it wasn't Oracle Warehouse Builder... heheheheh

  5. prc77ro
    Holy mackeral thats alot of work, but I'll tell you it looks fantastic. I don't know if you were going for it but I really love how it looks well old and original. Sometimes I think people get hung up on leather stuffs looking perfect, perfect spacing, perfect impressions, perfect coloring, stitching/lacing etc. I really love the rustic look, eventhough it has just been made it gives the impression of being around for years. I hope you have photos in an album of all your belts.
  6. prc77ro
    Thanks Buzzkiller, the photos just dont do it justice. I had a couple of issues with the antique as this was the first item I have used it on. It made the entire holster dark brown. So I put some reducer on a cloth and wiped all the high areas and it left the antique in all the tooling. I had to do the grooving by hand with a modeler as I dont have a groover with a guide. The customer picked the design himself.
  7. prc77ro
    Its for a Heritage Rough Rider Single Six, but would fit a Ruger Single Six also both with 7" barrels. I'm hoping he will like this so much that he has me do a matching gunbelt.
  8. prc77ro
    I started this on Friday and finished on Sunday. Custom border and dyed in Angelus light brown "A" and antiqued with dark brown. I think that I am really enjoying making the western holsters, think I am getting alot better.
  9. prc77ro
    Finished this Saturday, fully lined. I followed a pattern i ordered from SLC. It's only my second pancake type.
  10. prc77ro
    love the form and the color, looks as though it holds very securely
  11. prc77ro
    I think 6 hours total between the belt, buckle end, billet, and both holsters, I think im at a foot an hour. Plus, and I'm still new to this, I don't think a machine will do a saddle stitch?
  12. prc77ro
    I made this for a friend that has 2 Uberti Scholfields, one with a 7in barrel and one with a 5. He wanted both holsters to fit a 7in. This is the first belt and the largest project I have done to date. The Belt is fully lined, made from two cuts of 9-10oz veg-tan, and both holsters and the billet end are lined in 2-3oz calf. I dont own a machine so everything is hand stitched in my horse with awl and harness needles. Please any criticism is welcome, let me know what you think or what i could have done better.
  13. prc77ro
    I made this for a friend that has 2 Uberti Scholfields, one with a 7in barrel and one with a 5. He wanted both holsters to fit a 7in. This is the first belt and the largest project I have done to date. The Belt is fully lined, made from two cuts of 9-10oz veg-tan, and both holsters and the billet end are lined in 2-3oz calf. I dont own a machine so everything is hand stitched in my horse with awl and harness needles. Please any criticism is welcome, let me know what you think or what i could have done better.
  14. prc77ro
    I really like how the tooling is black against the white belt, how did you do that? All the spots must have taken you forever, and it really does remind me of what you would see in an old wild west show. looks awsome.
  15. prc77ro
    I used to pre-drill with a harness needle in my press, now I have built my own 1/4 horse for sewing and have moved to an awl with a 2 1/2" replaceable blade, groove, mark with overstitcher, pierce first hole and pull thread through till needles are even and as mentioned before(if your a righty) thread first needle from back side and pull through 6-8" then pass right side needle through, before pulling right side needle all the way through pull the thread from the left side back about 2-3 inches to make sure it isnt pierced. then continue to pull right side needle through completly and pull all thread tight. Believe it or not using an awl vs drilling gives alot more room to pass the needles through, and its faster too. You don't have to take the extra step of drilling all your holes. the 13" bowie sheath I made(in my gallery) is an 1" wide at the hand guard and even with pre drilling i still had to use pliers to pull them through, don't think I would have had to do that had I used an awl. hope this helps. Oh I forgot to mention I use Waxed linnen thread and 00 harness needles.
  16. prc77ro

    I have an extra right hand draw holster for a Scholfield that hasn't been dyed yet if anyone knows of someone looking.

  17. prc77ro

    Finally finished the two pistol gunbelt in oxblood, took almost 4 weeks working after i got home from work, and weekends

  18. prc77ro
    You should be able to but if you arent sure you can get some leather bleach from springfield leather and that should solve that problem.
  19. prc77ro

    dyed my current project in Angelus oxblood and when it dried it had a gold sheen, even after buffing. anybody else experience this?

  20. prc77ro
    try using either dye reducer or thinner, if you use Barges cement the dye reducer will work and I havent tried it but i would assume the Barges thinner would also. I used to work in a cabinet shop years ago and we used reducer on the contact cement to take off the formica sheets if they werent lined up correctly on the counter tops or cabinets. Just use an acid brush or even a paint brush.
  21. prc77ro
    This is the second Mexican loop holster I have made. This was made to fit a Ruger Single Six, I actually made it hoping that a friend, who has a Heritage Rough Rider Single Six, would like it and want me to make him one. well he loved it and it fit his Rough Rider perfect but he just wanted a border instead of a carving. Another positive that came out of it, he mentioned that he was looking at a gunbelt and knife sheath(for a stag handle knife he was eying in the store) and he wants them all to be a matching set. Please let me know what yall think. and I'm sorry about the pictures, too much glare doesn't show the colors properly. thanks.
  22. prc77ro
    Dwight, thanks for the photo and your own experience. The first side of loops that I wove I pulled out and re-wove them around the actual cartridges, nice and snug. The other side I have already pulled out and will be re-weaving tonight, I cut the loops to the same size as the others but after edging they actually came out smaller. I should have cut them at 3/4" instead of just under. I would assume securing one end of the loops makes a big difference in the end, its probably why mine keep loosening up.
  23. prc77ro
    I appreciate the clarification, I was going off of what Jim Villwock from Tandy had sent me when I had inquired about the markings. I am still waiting to hear back from him as he was supposed to be contacting the former manager of Craftool. Maybe there is a difference in time between the Craftool Co. USA and Craftool USA? The info he gave me he recieved from an employee that has been at Tandy since 1960.
  24. prc77ro
    The "new" craftool stamps that are being made are made in Taiwan, with a goldish color. Be careful on Ebay because there is a seller selling "vintage Craftool" stamps that are gold and either stamped CRAFTOOL or printed in ink but the photos that are posted show chrome tools. The Craftool plant closed in 1999 so anything made after that IS NOT made in the USA. Oh and incase some didnt already know Craftool Co. put the USA on the tool in about 1990.
  25. prc77ro
    Really wont be a big deal to cut a rivet out re-wet and redo at least its better than asking after cementing and sewing. I'm having him bring in an additional 8 rounds so I can do all 12 at one time. Oh, and if I had a lathe I could have turned them to 0.46" or maybe in my 1/2" drill and some sand paper? Hmmmmm could be an excuse to buy another tool
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