msdeluca

Great design! How did you do the edging?

You probably have your printer set to "Scale To Page" instead of 100% scaling. I just printed the pattern and after switching to 100% scaling, the printed and actual measurements match.

Great tips... thanks!

You missed my point. The problem is getting the first straight cut so that you can start using the strap cutter.

I make a lot of belts and it became clear all too soon that my 24" long cutting mat and 48" straight edge were not "cutting" it. I found a nice 60" straight edge at Home Depot for $11. Johnson Tool. I also found a place that offers remnants of poly cutting board for fairly cheap. www.thecuttingboardfactory.com Contact for remnant availability & sizes: joef@thecuttingboardfactory.com I purchased two pieces of 8 1/2" x 60" x 1/4" for $11 each. Shipping was $20, so I bought two boards. I'll lay the leather on the cutting board and clamp the rule to the workbench, then cut a nice straight edge in one motion rather than cutting 24", then moving the cutting mat, cutting the next 24", and so on. Once there is a straight edge on the leather, switch to the strap cutter. Hope this helps...

interesting Wiz... thanks!

The only time my 3200 broke thread was when the thread had gotten hung up around the lower tensioner. Check your entire thread path to make sure the thread is not hanging up anywhere. I also had a problem when I forgot to pass the thread through the hole at the bottom of the needle bar near the needle clamp screw. The result was that the thread tension was pulling the needle to the left on the downstroke; far enough not to allow the hook to catch the loop of thread at the needle. This, in turn, didn't allow the stitch to form around the bobbin leaving a mess of threads in the bobbin case area and missed stitches in the workpiece.

Glad you got it worked out.

I had a similar problem on my 3200. I called Ryan at Neel's Saddlery. There are a couple of parts behind the face plate that are binding and need to be lapped to increase clearance. On my machine, I could use the hand lever to raise and lower the presser foot, but the pedal assembly would raise the presser foot with great difficulty and then the presser foot wouldn't lower all the way back down to the needle plate. He told me that they have had to trouble shoot this problem on a couple of machines. I did what he told me and the foot pedal operation works properly now. It was easy and took about 30 minutes to resolve. There is also a guide screw in the left side of the front walking foot bar that runs up and down in a vertical slot that faces the left end of the machine. The screw was binding against the side of the slot. I took a file and flattened the side of the guide screw to eliminate the bind. I would imagine that Bob at Toledo is aware of the problem as well. Call whomever you purchased the machine from and they will walk you through it. If you can't get help, let me know and I can take pictures of what I did.

Can you take pictures of the entire thread path?

Thanks Chief and PCOX for putting up the photos. I would think you'd have best results on maintaining adjustment if you use the compression spring in the top position rather than the bottom as the piece was designed. It would work with the way your guides were modified by adding a 5/16" washer above the spring washer. It will keep side play to a minimum. If I'd thought of filing the sides of the original bolt, I'd probably have done it, but I do like the finished look of the way I did mine. I find the stainless thumbwheel purchased from McMaster to be less wobbly (threads cut more accurately). I upgraded the adjustment hardware using this same wheel on a Heritage type splitter and the accuracy of of the adjustment is noticeably better. I'll have to put up a thread on that.

Chief, Can you take the bolt out and take a picture of the parts? Mike

I agree with the cylinder arm machine. I think the post machine would be more difficult and I believe the feed system can mark the leather (not 100% sure on that point). Have you considered the Cowboy CB3200. Ryan at Neel's Saddlery set mine up for 277/207 top/bottom thread. A friend of mine wanted me to help him sew a bimini cover for his boat and after some research, I found that 92 is the recommended size thread for Sunbrella. Even Ryan told me that the CB3200 may have trouble, but I tried it anyway. I loosened up both top tensions, as well as, the top presser foot pressure tension and it sewed the Sunbrella beautifully down to two layers with the lock stitch nicely centered between the layers. I've personally sewn with it using 92/92, 138/138, 207/207, 277/207, and 277/277 (top/bottom) thread. It will center the lockstitch in 5 oz leather. I knew I'd never need the larger 441 clones like the Cowboy 4500, but I was hoping to get a machine that could handle 1/2" to 1/8" thicknesses, but was told that one machine probably wouldn't do it. So far the CB3200 has done it all. Couldn't be happier with the machine or Ryan at Neel's Saddlery. Additional note: I've never had to adjust the bobbin case tension. When I adjust the top tensions, I try to adjust both top tensioners the same amount. I'll back both screws out all the way, then turn them in equally until the lockstitch centers in the material. I have additional info regarding the CB3200 on my blog at www.conceptleather.blogspot.com. Hope this helps. Mike

Sure wish you had posted that when I was trying to figure this out. You'll still need the 5/16" washer to compress the spring washer if you want the ability to swing the guide bearing away from the work without losing the adjustment... but that's only 15 cents.

I agree with the cylinder arm machine. I think the post machine would be more difficult and I believe the feed system can mark the leather (not 100% sure on that point). Have you considered the Cowboy CB3200. Ryan at Neel's Saddlery set mine up for 277/207 top/bottom thread. A friend of mine wanted me to help him sew a bimini cover for his boat and after some research, I found that 92 is the recommended size thread for Sunbrella. Even Ryan told me that the CB3200 may have trouble, but I tried it anyway. I loosened up both top tensions, as well as, the top presser foot pressure tension and it sewed the Sunbrella beautifully down to two layers with the lock stitch nicely centered between the layers. I've personally sewn with it using 92/92, 138/138, 207/207, 277/207, and 277/277 (top/bottom) thread. It will center the lockstitch in 5 oz leather. I knew I'd never need the larger 441 clones like the Cowboy 4500, but I was hoping to get a machine that could handle 1/2" to 1/8" thicknesses, but was told that one machine probably wouldn't do it. So far the CB3200 has done it all. Couldn't be happier with the machine or Ryan at Neel's Saddlery. Additional note: I've never had to adjust the bobbin case tension. When I adjust the top tensions, I try to adjust both top tensioners the same amount. I'll back both screws out all the way, then turn them in equally until the lockstitch centers in the material. I have additional info regarding the CB3200 on my blog at www.conceptleather.blogspot.com. Hope this helps. Mike

I was having a real problem with the Cowboy CB3200 edge guide. I believe it was designed for the CB4500 which has a slightly different casting in the cylinder arm. The problem: The thumbwheel tightens from the bottom and the thumbwheel comes into contact with the cylinder arm casting which limits the edge guide to about 1/2". I usually set my edge stitching from 1/4" - 5/16". The edge guide comes with a wing nut which allows for a closer setting, but is extremely hard to tighten; one of those things that you need three hands for and it also hits the cylinder arm casting. The Solution: Ordered a few parts from McMaster-Carr and problem solved. Now I can adjust the guide bearing right up to the front walking foot and can easily lock it down from the top. It cost me about $25. I did a full write-up complete with parts list at: http://conceptleather.blogspot.com/2014/12/upgrade-cb3200-edge-guide.html Hope this helps, Mike

Corian is harder than oak, it is non-pourous, and has a heft similar to glass. I would think that as long as the surface is not marring the leather surface, it is smooth enough. I've taken corian up to 600 grit and can get a nice sheen, but it doesn't hold it, at least as a counter surface. IIRC, Bruce Johnson used a piece of poly cutting board for years and others use hardwood. It seems to be working fine for me.

Yes, but I've found it quite easy. You use this thing called a phone and call them. They will send a catalogue with pricing. There is an order form in the catalogue. You can either fill it out and mail it and they will call you for your payment, or just call them and they can take the order and payment at the same time. They are courteous on the phone and ship very quickly. Bieler's Manufacturing and Suppy 3025 Harvest Drive Ronks, PA 17572 717-768-0174 I must concede that I'm spoiled to internet ordering as well, but I'll continue to use Bieler's.

Just got some very nice strap end punches from Bieler's. They have their own name brand that are well made and scary sharp. I'm ordering a couple more tomorrow. Very happy with Bieler's.

I've done exactly the same thing over the years with boots, knife sheaths, etc. Always professional results. Also found this: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25883

Thanks for the comments... the leather grip has now been modified courtesy of my English Bull Terrier... caught him being a little too quiet... went to check and found him retooling my work. He seems to have a flair for leather work...

So, I'm all about making something out of nothing and for free. I needed a glass leather slicker but didn't want to pay the $20 and up price. I had a discontinued sample of 1/2" thick Corian that was already cut to 4" square. I then rounded the corners, and used a 1/4" radius router bit to produce a fully rounded edge. Sanded it down to 220 and wet molded a grip out of scrap 8 oz veg tan leather. Works great. I'd bet one could order a sample from Dupont for free or next to nothing. Hope this helps, Mike

Thanks for doing the plan... I look forward to seeing your build. What drawing program are you using?

That is just incredible. Very well executed and the clown weirds me out just a little. The way you give dimension in your dye modeling is exquisite. Love the contrasting lacework as well.

Love my Cowboy CB3200... I've been successful sewing with 92 thread in two layers of sunbrella up to 277 thread in 9/16" of Herman Oak so far. Ryan at Neel's Saddlery set mine up and its been a perfect experience.