Fowlingpiece

I have 9 tools for sale that I have duplicates of or am not using. 1 NEW Dixon hollow edge round bottom Number 3 (of 8) edge shave 1 NEW Dixon hollow edge round bottom Number 5 (of 8) edge shave 1 NEW Dixon single crease 1 CS Osborne number 12 overstitch, handle has a couple of stable age cracks but does not affect use 1 unknown edge crease tool 1 Craftool adjustable crease 1 Craftool number 5 overstitch 1 Craftool number 6 overstitch 1 Craftool diamond pricker @ 7 to the inch IIRC 160.00 shipped in cont. US can do paypal Will consider breaking up

I have 9 tools for sale that I have duplicates of or am not using. 1 NEW Dixon hollow edge round bottom Number 3 (of 8) edge shave 1 NEW Dixon hollow edge round bottom Number 5 (of 8) edge shave 1 NEW Dixon single crease 1 CS Osborne number 12 overstitch, handle has a couple of stable age cracks but does not affect use 1 unknown edge crease tool 1 Craftool adjustable crease 1 Craftool number 5 overstitch 1 Craftool number 6 overstitch 1 Craftool diamond pricker @ 7 to the inch IIRC Will consider breaking up 160.00 shipped in cont. US can do paypal Thanks James

3-4 oz veg tan

I make mine similar to that above but with no wing nut and I use white oak steam bent. I include a set with my classes in 18th century leatherwork.

MMArmory, I have have replied to you by private message. Glad to discuss! James

Booth does in fact sell Dixon tools to US buyers

Also....keeping the stitch line close to the clam edge and the clams upright helps this.

I am trained in the traditional English saddler style like Nigel. As long as you are repeating the same loop and placing and pulling your needles the same every time you will be fine. It appears from your pictures you are already doing that. If so, then I would be looking at the angle in which you are using your awl. Not just the tilt to match the prick angle but making sure to push exactly perpendicular to the job every time. Hope this makes sense. James Rogers

For that type of "sealing" I would melt about 1/3 pound of wax, brush on with a natural bristle brush or rag, then use a hair dryer to make it penetrate the leather.

Maybe these two will work correctly. I cut and pasted from the other post and the links did not take. Thanks for the welcome. http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2012/06/contemporary-makers-blog-interview-with.html?m=1 http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2012/07/cmb-interview-with-james-rogers-part-2.html?m=1

Greetings, I posted this earlier in another forum not realizing that there was a forum just for introductions. I am relatively new to this great website. I thought I might just jump in and introduce myself. My name is James Rogers and I am involved in historical sporting/civilian arms and their accoutrements. This website has a wonderful design and I am enjoying it very much. Here are a couple of links that detail some of my back history and some examples of my work. http://contemporarym...w-with.html?m=1 http://contemporarym...part-2.html?m=1 Any questions, feel free to ask Great bunch of folks here

Greetings, I am relatively new to this great website. I thought I might just jump in and introduce myself. My name is James Rogers and I am involved in historical sporting/civilian arms and their accoutrements. This website has a wonderful design and I am enjoying it very much. Here are a couple of links that detail some of my back history and some examples of my work. http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2012/06/contemporary-makers-blog-interview-with.html?m=1 http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2012/07/cmb-interview-with-james-rogers-part-2.html?m=1 Any questions, feel free to ask Great bunch of folks here James

The above is one manner of holding that I think is more continental in origin. (See Diderot's Encyclopedia) Traditionally it depended on from which shop you learned from and from whom they learned technique from. I was taught to use the clams held vertically. I make my own clams to be self sprung. Most of the time, their own pressure and a slight bit from my legs is all that is needed to secure the job.

A screw-crease can mark your line and a pricking iron is superior to a wheel IMHO. There may be some applications for your groover when you want the stitching below surface.

Sorry for your loss. The blessing is that the most important assets were saved ( the both of you).

I have had a running batch for about 4 years. I just keep adding vinegar. I do not add more iron as I leave it in the jar and shake every now and then.

For veg tan try oven cleaner, rub the pouch on its wear areas using something abrasive like bricks, etc., wet it and bend in weird shapes and let dry with folds and bends. Just a few options and combinations.

Use RIT dye remover then soak in walnut hulls

I like hide glue crystals mixed with boiling water. Stain can also be mixed in.

Sold

2 are marked "Jetter NY", 1 is marked "Oulding & C, NY", 2 are marked "D. GAVEY, NY", The rest are not marked.

Marks and names forthcoming. The largest looks to be a 14 and there is another 14. The next largest is a 12 plus 3 more 12s. There is a 9, and a 10. There is a 20 which is the very small one and then there is the small one with just pricks left on each end which ends up about 3 1/2.

9 Antique pricking irons (a couple are maker marked) 3 of the smaller ones have 1 or two broken tines but are still useable, One has been modified with a prick on each end , an Osborne #2 crease, swivel knife, awl and #5 overstitch wheel. 185.00 shipped (Cont. US, ins. extra)

Simichrome