Macca

wow, thats terrible, especially for the price of blanchards !

Thats a number 8 you have then, not a 9 8 SPI 9 teeth is a No.8 - 9 Should be two numbers marked on it, the number closest to the teeth is the SPI, the other is the number of teeth. They have 16 versions of the No.8 from No.8 - 2 (2 teeth) to No.8 - 20 (20 teeth) Dixon only mark the SPI & you order by width (in half inch increments), not number of teeth.

the sizing shouldn't be one off, blanchards have the SPI & the number of teeth stamped, the dixons only stamp the SPI so if you read it incorrectly the blanchards could be different, but when ordering by SPI they are the same spacing.

those look way too fragile, expect them to snap quickly

look at the positives. If you stab your thumb with your awl & didn't feel it going in you know your awl is sharp/polished enough

Don't be disappointed The cost of Hermes is not down to an extra few hours hand stitching or not, bags ranging from 10K to 100K are not priced based on the number of hours to make Things they do better than anyone are styling & the leather they use, those & great marketing !

you are simply wrong, maybe you should look at the evidence, you even asked yourself, how is this lining stitched by hand, answer, its not, its not possible & even looks like its machine stitched. There is no saddle stitch technique that can give different coloured stitching on either side. I have handled enough Hermes items to spot the machined parts You have see leatherworkers assemble the finished parts, including stitching the panels together (by hand), but the linings & other parts are machine stitched. machine stitched above the logo, handle attached by saddle stitch, locking straps are also machine stitched, its pretty obvious Need more ? http://forum.purseblog.com/showpost.php?p=21133261&postcount=77 reply from Hermes posted even stating machine & hand are both used on Kelly & Birkins They don't like to publicise this obviously, for some reason the thought of a completely hand stitched item seems to help them justify the price.

Lol, ok You have seen the craftsmen assemble the pieces You have not seen them stitching the lining by hand because they don't, they use a machine as the picture clearly shows Want another clue ? Look at the stitch angle The hand stitched parts have the normal saddle stitched slant, the machine stitched parts are reversed (& no, before someone jumps in, they don't use reverse pricking irons) Want more evidence, compare the stitching above the logo (the machine stitched part) to the attached handle Completely different, one machine, one by hand

Handles etc are hand stitched to attach them, but most of the bag you have shown is machine stitched, 2 colour threading like that is only possible with two different threads, so done by machine. It is normal practice for them to machine stitch as much as possible on all the bags they produce, they didn't switch to a machine to stitch it with different colours, they always use a machine.

That is machine stitched with a different coloured thread in the bobbin. Hermes use machines as well as hand stitching some parts.

If you get the chance, at an airport or something it is worth visiting a Hermes shop, they are happy for you to have a look at their range of small leather goods & yes you can handle them, get a good look. I recently spent some time at one in Paris, shop was very quiet so I think the sales guy was just happy someone was interested in having a look ! First thing that stands out, the stitching isn't prefect, it's very good but you can easily spot the hand made items. If you handle them you will understand why they look so much better than anything the average leatherworker can produce, it's the leather they use, it's so much better than the stuff that is readily available to the public, the texture, firmness etc is just what you want for hand stitching, that & the edge tools/paints they use are the real difference

Practice Oh & your thread is too thick for the SPI

Nicely done !

Cant help with the Blanchards, but if you need a loan of any more dixons (old type & new) you can borrow them for the vid, no problem. I've got 7,8,9 & 10 in various sizes plus a couple of 12's http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56100&p=361968 has some pictures 15's & 16's on their way to me. Also French & German pricking wheels, up to 18 I think Might need some time to find them, all my gear is boxed up just now. Now if you ever feel like doing vid on old French plough gauges, splitters or round knifes I'm your man !

nice !

I just don't see the need for anything strong, it won't be under any stress at all. PVA works perfectly for me for clamp jaws & strops but is weak enough to be removed without damaging the wood.

Great post Thanks for the detailed breakdown

I just use PVA & a bit of veg tan, easily replaced as required but more than strong enough for a clamp.

heres a few more pictures of that wallet

it is indeed, he makes some amazing stuff

on video 2, no need to hide the join, the metal corner piece goes over the top of the material so hides all the joins (BTW, thats plastic coated canvas they use, not leather) Otherwise its pretty much just down to skiving the edge thin enough

Its all leather, its a wallet. 4 layers, tan outer is thicker, then pink, green, pink Inner 3 layers skived on a bell skiver for card slots, as David mentioned its died through layers are glued, its machine stitched then a Fileteuse or the Japanese equivalent was used to put that crease beside the stitching Burnishing by machine & hand finished. Its an extremely well taken photograph of an extremely well made item, he has being doing these for years, you are seeing the result of years of practice, great skill & fantastic quality leather.

Successful Leatherworkers or any other skilled craftsmen didn't start off with a business plan

I managed to pick up some 12SPI old dixon irons recently, finally ! Now just got to get 14's & I'm finished.. Back on topic, nice job !

Machine stitched ? You are dead to me joe