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Macca

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Everything posted by Macca

  1. Its bad advice because its just wrong, you dish out bad advice all over the forum, based on stuff you have read or just think, not experience, seriously, you are not helping anyone with your posts. the lower the SPI the thicker the thread required for the same strength You post numbers & even call them general guidelines, numbers no-one would recognise, they are far too thin for the SPI, both from a strength & asthetics viewpoint.
  2. .58mm thread for 6 SPI ??? errr, no. More bad advice
  3. Nicely finished Joe ! Can you see your progress clearly every time you post something
  4. yet more ill informed guess work I see... A t shirt heat press would do almost nothing to smooth out the flesh side It requires substantial pressure & resins to smooth & seal the flesh side, you won't be able to buy them. Then surface treatment to smooth/sand & create a surface for the topcoat to adhere to, yet more processes & chemicals you don't have access to as a home user.
  5. you really need to roll-coat it, under pressure & using heat/ UV to cure it. You are trying to put a new finish on it, a completely new surface layer. You won't get the chemicals needed as a home user or the equipment to do it. A bit of paint on the flesh side will look terrible.
  6. Haven't you already asked this ? You won't be able to replicate that finish at home. It requires hugely expensive industrial equipment & chemicals you wont be able to buy to get that level of finish. There is a whole industry supplying equipment for finishing leather. The picture you have posted is just leather that has had the roll coat process applied to the flesh side
  7. ughh.. enough Look at the OP, asking for advice on his burnishing technique & you recommend edge paints you haven't even tried. Bob's tutorial is the perfect way to burnish natural veg tan. Seriously David, stop recommending techniques, tools etc when you have no experience of them !
  8. No, you prefer whatever you THINK is the quickest & advise everyone to do the same, you now say you don't even have the edge paint, why recommend it ??? & FFS, they don't use soldering irons in Europe, I've told you what the tool is, a Fileteuse manuelle, sold by Mando.fr, used primarily for chromed & exotic leathers. The control is not the same a soldering iron, look at the bits sold with it, any of them look like soldering iron bits ? No, the temp control on a soldering iron would not work with so much metal on the end. I have seen people using an iron with very hard wax & dye, I still would not recommend it, especially on natural veg tan. I would have thought, anyone who has the gall to even think of using the name Atelier would understand the benefits of putting the hours in to understand the fundamental techniques & not continue to look for shortcuts before they even have the basics down.
  9. The European way is most certainly not a soldering iron & edge paint, thats a botched up work around you have working for you on a few pieces you have done. I assume you are trying to refer to using a Fileteuse & wax, that it used by a very small number of workers over here & does produce good results on difficult leathers, expensive tool as its designed to get to & maintain a regulated temperature for leather, its not a soldering iron. The European way as you call it, is hand burnishing, gum arabic or animal glue. OP, as mentioned, Bob did a great tutorial on burnishing http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101
  10. Such bad advice here.. for veg tan, look at Bob's excellent tutorial http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101 & ignore any advice about soldering irons & paint
  11. I feel your pain, I got bummed recently, bought a Swiss stitching clamp from Walter on here, forgot they aren't considered part of the EU 60 quid customs & handling fees
  12. Macca

    Thin Awls

    Try & find the 33mm long blanchard awl blades over there, they are 2.3mm at the widest point, they are ok for 9SPI, decent steel & can be ground even smaller as required (you might want to thin them a little for 9SPI, depends on the leather you are using & how far you push the awl through). I ground some down a bit for 12SPI+ work. Careful though, go a lot thinner & the blade will snap if you put any up/down pressure on it, they are hard steel, but brittle when thin.
  13. David, I have a few of the wheels from different European makers, you can't use them to make single marks, the teeth are too close together on the wheel so you get multiple marks with little pressure.
  14. word of warning you might want to try it with one blade first, wouldn't be the first time a splitter blade has been ruined by a pro sharpening place (ask trox on here about his experience of professional sharpening) & I'd actually be worried if they didn't suck in their breath They might be underestimating how tricky they are to do properly.
  15. Sona said it all & a lot gentler than I would have 20 years ? oh & I see this is your third attempt on kickstarter. I don't think lack of publicity is the reason you are not getting backing.
  16. wouldn't say the design was flawed, the real old ones were made by an individual by hand, all the pieces were made for a single gauge (hence why they have numbers stamped on every piece, they were all slightly different) then they changed design slightly to be made by machine then materials changed during the war Finally, real cost cutting takes place & the brass content is lowered which required a change in the guide rail & clamp parts. Interestingly though, the blades fit all of them, they never changed that layout. BTW, dixons did at least 3 different versions of their gauge, even though they were much simpler/rougher/cheaper than the french ones, they still found things to change
  17. haha ! Once I get my new house sorted I'll see whats available Better not show you my splitter collection
  18. Nice design Joe I don't like the shape of the back of the strap though, that square bit looks odd.
  19. Heres a pic of some I bought a while back. Ignore top left & centre top in this picture, the rest are blanchard or mayer flamery (same pattern as the blanchards, interchangeable parts) you can see the variety they did over the years. pic below shows what the blade should look like, as Bruce mentions, they have 2 slots
  20. I'd be getting a refund on that one. The blade is wrong (which you now know) The scale has been chopped off at some point (should be 6 inch minimum with the Blanchard logo on the end), you can see it had been chopped off after 4 and a bit inches Finally, the sliding guide rail is a replacement, not a Blanchard either. I've got a load of French plough gauges & none of them look like that. If you don't mind me asking, how much was it ?
  21. They went for decent money, but still much less than half retail. I'd have been happy at retail price as they look unused & better quality than the new equivalent YUP !
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