Sunnyside Scott

It looks like the only adjustment is from the hole on the back of the machine, although I didn't tip my machine back to find the clamp that Eric mentioned.

I had a 562 and upgraded to the 1508n about 3 years ago, it was a great move going from size G bobbins to size U, you won't regret it. Scott

Take your bobbin out to verify that you don't have a piece of thread stick in that area. Scott

It looks like your head is threaded wrong, check out your shiny round thing with the fine loop spring, my guess is that your thread is on the inboard side of the thread path. Scott

Re check your thread path, something may have pulled your thread out of the upper tension discs. Ensure that your bottom thread is under the tension spring, after you draw your bottom thread up through the feed dog as normal, hold your bobbin with one finger and pull on the bottom thread with the other hand. This should seat the bottom thread under the tension spring. Scott

I contacted them a few months ago for some special presser feet, and was having email back and forth, when I asked about how to pay them, things went quiet. I'm not sure if I was working with the "wrong" guy or what. They must have passed my email off, because now I'm getting spammed by Chinese suppliers. I'm curious to hear if there is any updates. Scott

I'm also interested to know more about a synchronized binder for a flatbed machine. I currently have a Juki 1508 with multiple slide plates set up with different 90 degree binder attachments, but it sometimes falls short on inside curves. Scott

I had a " used Juki 562" that I purchased off of Craigslist. It will sew thin leather but the main problem is the small bobbin size, that will get old quick, I have purchased a hand full of used machines in the past and one thing that I have learned is that if the seller says that it needs "timed" it's normally more than that and I have to deduct $200 because that what I figure the minumum it will take for a professional to get it running. I sold my 562 for $500 in perfect working order, if that helps you base your price. Scott

I had a Juki 562, it is a good machine but it has a small bobbin (size G) and always seems to run out of thread when you need it the most. $1,000 is too much for a used machine, as you can get a used Juki 563 for the same amount, it has a huge bobbin ( size U). Size is everything when it comes to bobbins, most Used walking foot sewing machines in that price range will have a size M, which is the smallest size that you want. I don't want to sound pushy, but I went down that road before I knew better and will never make that mistake again. Scott

I have purchased a new and used machine from him in the past year. Great comminucation and great packaging for shipment. I will buy from him again. Scott

So I did contact one of the Forum advertisers and discussed the Techsew 2800 and the Pfaff 335G, the person I talked to told me that the 2800 has a G sized bobbin and the Pfaff has a large bobbin, but he didn't think it was an M style. Using the Thread Exchange's bobbin sizing chart I found some interesting information. Pfaff 335 is a H size bobbin Consew RBFS is a L sized bobbin Conew 227r is a G sized bobbin All of these sizes are similar to G size and are not even close to an M size, so my search goes on, and I might even have to step up to one of the big saddle stitchers. At the end of the day, want a machine that has good parts support and I can get 90 degree binder attachments and feet at a reasonable price. The search goes on. Scott

I'll start off by by saying that I don't sew leather, but I use walking foot sewing machines to build nylon tactical gear. My sewing machine A.D.D. is kicking in and I'm in the hunt for a cylinder arm machine with a vibrating binder. As I understand it, the binder moves with the needle so it helps with odd shaped products. I am currently using a flatbed machine with 90 degree binders. The machines I have seen are the Pfaff 335 and Consew 227R. I use 3/4 and 1" binding tape and webbing on the edges of some of my products. I currently have a standard cylinder arm, Consew 227R but it frustrates the sh!t out me because it uses a G sized bobbin, which always seems to run out just as you get going. So I would really like a size M or larger bobbin and I want to make sure it can handle multiple layers of Cordura and webbing, my build ups can be around 3/8"-1/2". Can someone point me in the right direction, also give me some insight on what the factories use? Thanks Scott

I would be interested in finding a brushless motor with the most torque with 115 volt input power. I currently have both styles but am looking for another brushless motor, possibly with needle positioner. Thanks guys

Very close to what I do. I use a walking foot machine using a #21 needle and #69 bonded nylon thread ( because thats what I build all my gear with). I use sail tape ( a 3/8" double sided tape that doesn't stick to the needle) to hold my first roll then I chalk a line on the outside that I use as a guide for my second roll. I start sewing on the inside of the leg behind the thick seam, to better hide my start and stop. I use a guide made out of a strip of 1/4" foam attached to my machine using the same double sided tape. This method works like a champ and I have never had a seam failure. Scott

I'm a little late to this topic but I have recently went down the bartacker road. This Spring I picked up a Used Juki 980, 42 stitch tacker with a standard clamp, and an adjustable stitch width from 8-16mm. It was in such great shape I just couldn't pass it up. I quickly realized that for my work I needed a 20-22mm stitch, so I called Camatron and asked about re-caming the machine. I forget the exact numbers but it was around $1,000 for the parts alone and around $1900 if I sent in my machine to him for installation. He did not recommend spending that kind of money on that machine but suggested an electronic bartacker. A few weeks ago I received my new/used Juki 1900AHS bartacker with North/South feet, giving me the ability to pick from 28-56 stitch tack that can be scaled from 20mm. I sold the 980 machine, and will never look back, I build Military type gear and this machine is a perfect fit in my small shop. The stitch you posted looks real similar to the 42 stitch bartack of the Juki. Scott

I'm not familiar with the video that you are watching, but almost all machines work in a similar fashion. BDC = bottom dead center, and it is normally in reference to the needle bar. With that in mind, you normally time the point of the hook to be in the center of the scarf of the needle (x) amount above the hole in the needle. I hope this makes sense. Scott

I bought a used Consew 227r from someone that sewed leather, they had the presser feet set about 1/4" above the deck, in the down position. I think they did this this to allow them to sew thicker stuff. I never tried to use it in that state, since I sew industrial fabrics and need to grip thinner materials. Scott

For a sewing machine that just needs a bath and 50 years of crud cleaned out of it I use use mineral spirits shot through an cheap automotive paint gun. For scrubbing I use a paint brush with the bristles trimmed short, followed up with sewing machine oil. Scott

My machines aren't the heavy duty leather stitchers, because I build nylon gear, but here is what I use. Juki 1182 double needle with split bar. Juki 1508 as my dedicated binding machine. Juki 2810-7 as my main straight stitch machine. Consew 227R cylinder arm machine, Artisan 618SC, and Adler 167GK-373.

I just sold my Tac Sew T-111 which is the same machine as the Sailrite, after a year of use. It had never failed me but I have recently up graded to Juki's, 1508n and 2810-7. The Tac Sew class machine is more for the part time user, it's internal parts aren't as heavy duty as the Juki, so it all depends on what you want to do with the machine and how deep you want to get into this hobby. With the MCR servo motor the Sailrite should be an easy to use machine with lots of power. It's all about decisions. Scott

Put one of the 135 needles in and check the needle timing to the hook, while spinning it by hand. The person that you got it from might have been trying to use the wrong needles. I picked up a used Adler 167 and the person had 190 needles in it, it sewed fine forward but got totally messed up when it was reversed. After a few hours of internet searches I found out that it was the wrong needle and I simply had to readjust the timing for the 135 needled and it works like a champ. Scott

While the pulley is off, verify that the set screw can tighten beyond the inner bore of the pulley. I don't see a piece of key stock in your picture, does the shaft have a key way cut into it? Scott

I normally run a #22 needle with #138 and a #21 with #92 thread. Since you didn't mention if you increased your needle size with your thread size, I thought I would just throw it out there. Scott

Brmax, I am not an expert on sewing tarps, I am just finding things that work for me. To be more clear on what I am sewing, it is 18oz vinyl coated polyester ( truck tarp) I am making fitted covers for plastic storage crates that get strapped to a flat bed trailer and go down the road on a daily basis. I got the job because the last person making these covers was using a #207 thread with a single stitch. Over time the stitch would get damaged and the cover would come apart at the seams. Rather than trying to go with a heavier thread I went with the theory of a pair of jeans, " they don't use a huge thread, they use multiple seams". Over the past year I have had to repair some of these covers, but never for torn out seams, because even if a stitch gets rubbed through, there is enough back up to keep from traveling. I am using a #22 needle in the 137-17 series. Scott

My primary work is not leather, I work with Corduras and nylon webbing as well as some tarp repair to help support my sewing habit. I have had a twin needle machine (juki 1182 LH with size U bobbins) for about a year and use it off and on for gear but my primary use is for tarp work. My trouble has always been with the left needle and the top thread wanting to become untwisted while running long stitch runs, which causes occasional skipped stitches. I use bonded nylon and polyester threads. Through some research I learned about right twist thread, so with a large tarp job at hand I special ordered it through my supplier, although I did have to buy 10lbs, ( #135 bonded Polyester, which is a few years worth of thread for me). I had a chance to run some tests today and it is the answer to my "untwisting" thread problem, on the left needle. Now I just need to find out about buying a few spools in my standard Military colors. I am interested in hearing from you builders that are running twin needle machines. Thanks, Scott