bucksnort
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Everything posted by bucksnort
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Hey Entiendo, Sorry your having trouble. With rawhide it's all about the temper, if the moisture is right it works easy. Most people try to work it too wet when they start. Set up some kind of humidor. I use a plastic tub with a screen a couple of inches off the bottom (a five gal. bucket works too), about an inch of water underneath & the rawhide above on the screen. Soak your rawhide for a few minutes & then put it in the humidor for 12-24 hrs. It should feel somewhat dry, but be flexible. Your tools will work fine if the moisture is right. Hope this helps a little.
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No problem, should look nice.
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Looks great.
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I'm think Joel covered it. I too work all my knots directly onto the piece.
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I do things a little different than most. I cut mine into 10 in. squares & stack them on a shelf. When I'm ready to use them, I wet them in a 5 gal bucket & temper them. Then I mark a circle with a divider. I cut my strings from that circle. Each will yield about 25 ft of 1/4 soga which is plenty long for anything except reatas. As far as even thickness, if you measure in about 8-10 in. from each end the remaining center part will be pretty even as a rule & older animals will be more even overall. Going down toward the belly is kind of a matter of feel when you start getting into the flanky part. Hope that is some help & as I said, just my way & different from most
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Check out Jack's classes. They are usually 2-3 days. It would be well worth the trip over to Lakeview if you can work it out. Check out the FB pages I mentioned, lots of good info there & on this site. Send me a friend request on FB if you want & if you have a chance to get down this way I'll help out where I can. Also, like Joe said, the Rocky Mt. Leather show is great, lots of classes & a good opportunity to interact with braiders. Buck
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Size it to fit around the hondoo then notch the ends in a v pattern so the part inside is narrower than the part you are laceing.
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Thanks Brian, I use this on occasion for the top loop of a 12 strand romal. Easiest way to get a round braid from six strands. Appreciate the share. Buck
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Good suggestion Brad, I knew Jack had some classes coming up & spaced on it. Amanda, Jack is over at Lakeview.
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There are some good FB groups. Try Rawhide & Rawhide Workers groups. Lots of good braiders, advice & guidance.
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I'm about an hour south of you at Montague, CA. Ralph Dillon is also here & teaches classes. Steve Harris is up in the Roseburg area. Are you on Facebook?
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What part of Southern Oregon?
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I wasn't ignoring you Kassidy, just haven't been on for a few days. It's hard to tell looking at a photo. If they aren't deep, they shouldn't. If you bend the cased hide at the deepest one you should be able to tell. If it bends more easily along the scar than the surrounding hide does they will be weaker, but are probably still ok for other items. My best guess is they won't give you any problem. Good luck. Buck
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Those look like wire scars. There isn't much way to tell beforehand unless they are fresh. They don't tend to bother much unless they are from a deep cut. If you have a chance to get dairy hides rather than beef they will usually have fewer scars & brands. Buck
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You can check it out on "the rawhiders gathering" page on Facebook
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Steve Dericott, Lacemaster, has a calculator on his webpage that is quite accurate. Check it out. Buck
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Welcome Mac, Good looking work. You'll likely get different opinions on your questions & with practice you'll find what works best for you. Rawhide is generally braided hair side out, but I've done pieces flesh side out with no problems. there are some advantages to flesh out, rawhide curls toward the hair side which can make for rough edges when it gets wet & dries, also the strength is in the outer hair side layer so if it's to the inside it's protected from wear. I don't stretch my strings, the hide is stretched on the frame when processing & I don't restretch. Good luck & it looks like your well on your way, you just have to learn how to work with the rawhide, you'll do fine. Buck
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Nice looking whip.
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I like thicker strings, so I typically make mine 1/2 as thick as the width. I cut my sogas a little over twice as wide as what I want my finished width to be & split it down to close to my finished thickness & then cut it into two strings. If you try to cut say an 1/8 string out of a round it will be so thick that its hard to keep straight & run through your splitter. Good luck, Buck
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What your looking for is directions for a pineapple knot or a gaucho knot. I think if you search this forum there are some tutorials. The turkshead is the base & then the interweave completes the knot. Most braiding books have directions, some better than others. Bryan Neubert's video is great. It seems I've seen tutorials on here by Alan Bell & Leatherpownder that are good.ope this helps. Buck
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I had one that was accidentally salted about 1/2 hr. before I picked it up. I rinsed it right then, but was never able to get the salt out of it. You can make rawhide from a salted hide & I think it was fairly common in TX. The Argentinians say that it will always cry. Salted hides will always draw moisture. Personally, I would probably try it & see how it works, a lot of what we use isn't our first choice, but sometimes it works better than what we think it will & we gain some new experience. Good Luck, Buck
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Looks good
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Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. Buck
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One method not mentioned is used by some that make reatas. Take the strip out of the middle & then cut the halves into two long sogas. By doing tihs you can get long enough strips for reatas without using the questionable stuff down the backbone. Also, Steve Derricott has a lace calculator on his site that tells you how much string you'll get from different sized rounds & is pretty accurate.
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I also take the strip out of the back, you can have damage from warbles, pour-on & the fibers seem to run differently along the back. Seems to produce better quality strings to take it out & use it for bosal cores, ect. Buck
