rejerome

Just google it. https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/265/K_265_267_269_EN.pdf

Get with http://www.solar-leather.com/. They have what you’re looking for. I use their control and it works great.

I have Cobra 20 that I purchased just a few weeks back. The motor was throwing error codes. Leather Machine Co received a bad batch of motors. Your machine carries a lifetime warranty. Contact your reseller or LMC direct and they’ll send you a replacement motor.

Thanks. Actually, depressing the pedal isn't the issue. I have to hold my leg up and let it down on the pedal to activate it. The weight of my leg works fine. I get tired hold my leg at the proper height. For me, a method to activate the speed with my upper body, IE; hand, arm, elbow,.....is going to be the best solution. I have an old Singer 99k that I use for light-weight projects and activating the foot pedal with my elbow while the pedal is sitting on the table top works great for me on that machine.

Perfect thread....I'd been tryin' to figure out a solution for my Cobra 4. I work from a wheelchair with limited leg control. I've managed to use the speed controller using the heal of my left foot to press down on the top of the petal. It works but gets a little tiring after a while. I know I'd see a similar thread somewhere in the past but had been unable to locate it again. Thanks everyone!

These machines are really simple and parts are freely available. Good luck.

The one with the serial number shown is a model 99k. I have one identical to it. Mine sews multiple layers of 2-3 oz. leather with no issues.

I'd be happy to work with you. You can contact me via my website.

"Guest Taylor", Contact me through my website with additional details and I'd be happy to assist you. Best regards, Rex

Got a drill? Just chuck up the Tandy slicker in a drill and clamp it to a bench. Oops...images didn't attach....trying again.

I'm running a Cobra 4 and have that. I think it's fairly normal to have a least some tracks. I just remove those tracks with a glass slicker.

Additional discussion on olive oil here. http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,31724.0.html As stated in the thread link above, everyone has their own experiences and beliefs on what works. Jen, you'll have to reach your own conclusions. I mentioned olive oil as most folks have it on hand for cooking and would therefore save a beginner a little money over purchasing a "dedicated" leather oil. Maybe it does go "rancid inside the leather". I've had no issues. It's a fact that many saddle makers use olive oil. Two quickly come to mind that have YouTube content you could look at; Bruce Cheaney and Don Gonzales. Don actually has one video dedicated to olive oil Regards, Rex

Sam Andrews uses an aluminum spindle for slicking in his holster business and it obviously works great for him. Fast forward to 8:18 in the video below...

Hi Jen, Kevin over at Springfield Leather Co has a video on using black dye. You should check it out. You can probably just treat the leather with olive oil and call it good in regards to the moisture protection. Just a couple light coats. As far as cutting out the pieces, you can cut heavy leather with shears pretty easily if a knife worries you. I'm left-handed and use a set of Mundial shears (only leftys I could find) that I purchased on http://www.chefdepot.net/scissors.htm They work great and the prices on that site are very reasonable. I'm just up the road from ya. Feel free to send me a PM if you want. Glad to help. Rex

Oh, yup I forgot about that. Thanks Wiz. You can contact me Kolten via the form on my website. http://rexjeromecustomleather.weebly.com/ Rex

I'd be happy to provide you with a quote. Feel free to send me a PM. Rex

Beret, This may sound a little crazy but you can use 1/4" drive deep wall sockets to test what size you like. If you don't have a set you can find them easily at hardware or big box stores, Select those sockets with outside diameters close to the barrel sizes of the BK swivel knives. Imagine them as swivel knife barrels and rotate them between your thumb and finger. Try different sizes to see what feels best to you. Naturally the sockets won't have the knurled finish but it'll still be helpful. If you have the time, its better than blowing $50 then determining you hate the size you purchased.

Tony's idea is good. If you don't mind the folds you could also do it as in the picture below, which is how dividers are commonly inserted into bags, briefcases, etc.

A number of online suppliers to the woodworking community in the USA carry what I think you're wanting. I'm not sure what temperature range you need but several of these are adjustable. Perform a Google search for "woodworking branding irons electric".

Once you have the blade polished, and continue to strop it "properly" you'll rarely need to, or even want to use a stone on it unless you damage the edge. If you drop it and nick the edge then you'll certainly need to take off more material than would be practical by stropping it to fix it. In such an instance stones would be helpful. Once you've removed damage you'll have to start the polishing process all over again. With that in mind I'd probably opt for the finer grits. I keep my knives in "holsters" when they're not in use to protect them. The three blades that I use the most are 1/4" and 1/2" Barry King blades which are pretty good when you get them, and a very thin 1/4" blade that I got from Peter Main. I have used them a ton and have yet to do anything other than strop any of them.

How much are you taking off in one pass? I think you'll only want to take maybe a couple of ounces (1/32") per pass and make multiple passes, taking a small amount with each pass. I think I recall seeing a video on YouTube for this machine.

Before you spend another $25 on a blade....is your blade polished to a mirror finish or can you still see the factory grind marks in it? If you still see grind marks then your blade is not sufficiently polished. For a Tandy blade you'll need to do a bunch of stropping as the grind marks are usually pretty deep. A couple dozen times will probably not get the job done. You may actually need to sharpen it on a stone first to remove the deep factory grind marks. Machine ground blades will have grind marks that are not parallel to the blade edge. This causes the blade to drag when you use it. It shouldn't drag, it should slide smoothly through the leather. A properly sharpened Tandy swivel knife blade will carve leather just as well as the most expensive knife blade you can find. It undoubtedly will not hold an edge as long, but it will work just as well as long as it is properly polished, and then maintained polished. Every time you pick your swivel knife, strop it. It's a good habit to get into. Strop it frequently during use. Bored, with nothing to do? Strop your swivel knife! LOL When stropping you need to be sure you maintain the blade angle. This means you hold the knife at the exact same angle though the entire stroke when you strop it. You do not want to roll it. Kevin does a good job of explaining sharpening and stropping. Sharpen: Stropping:

You can also do that using a block dyeing technique....

Yup, I don't disagree, if that fits your budget. Just comparing as close to apples to apples on $/sq.ft. as possible, although there really is no comparison between Tandy's leather and domestic. Some folks will walk buy a $10 bill layin' on the ground and some will stop and pick it up.

107/12 = 8.92/sq.ft. 107/14 = 7.64/sq.ft. IMHO, you can get Hermann Oak (from some place like Springfield) or Wicket & Craig (direct, split to your weight) for about the same price. Pay $30/yr. to Springfield and you can purchase HO Craftsman for 7.59/sq.ft. AND they'll sell you the amount you want if you don't want to buy a full side. I'd prefer either of these domestic tanneries over Tandy's imported leather any day. There is night and day difference in workability and consistency. Unless you are making projects that require a large unblemished piece of hide, buy the domestic in lower grades. The leather is all processed the same, the only difference is in the defects. You can work around defects and end up with very little waste. That's what works for me anyhow.... Good luck