Sovran81

I am thinking about buying a single fold binder, but know nothing about them except what I found on youtube. I have a consew 206rb-5 and run mostly 138 thread with #22 needles. I plan on sewing 2-4 oz upholstery leather and binding with 2 oz upholstery. My concerns are if the proposed leather will feed through most of the binders I find? What are things I should look for before choosing one? Any particular brands to search out or avoid? Do swing-aways have any issues that make them less desirable?

I first saw Bevan Rossacks beveler on youtube in some of berni46 vids. Really nice tool but way outside my empty pockets. I traded a local woodworker some braiding to make one out of wood and this was the result. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=14791 I still use it. I have often looked at the resizer/beveler that Yknot sells, but just never pulled the trigger. Heck I cant even afford the roo I want to work with. Doesnt your beveler have a blade spot for 90* cuts? That would work just fine to trim down your existing lace. In any event you will start cutting your own lace soon so you will need a strander, and a splitter. http://www.midwestwhips.com/Tools.html Dene Willaims tools rate high by many whipmakers. There is a cheaper strander out there, Looks like a stick of wood that you clamp a blade in. Cant seem to find the shop that sells them but once again, stranders are made to cut from the hide. resizer/bevelers are made to trim that rough cut strand.

I use the Aussie strander to rough out a strand from the hide. I use it at its maximum width. Then I stretch the strand. You know what stretching does to a strand. The width of the strand varies quite a bit. Then I run it through a resizer/beveler to make the widest consistent strand possible. From this I will cut narrow fine strands as needed. Could you use an Aussie strander to resize an already cut strand? Probably, but trying to keep the strand from twisting and lined up properly would have me pulling out what hair I do have. The Aussie strander is made to cut from the hide, not run strand through.

While there are people that can cut fine lace with an Aussi strander, I find it is more of a rough cut tool. Then trimmed to size with a resizer/beveler such as you linked to it or the cheaper ones they sell.

I have cut my own and can only comment on that. It appears to be a plastic layer bonded to the leather. Having the same concerns I tried to peel it off and had no luck. I cut a strand from the stretchy belly of the hide and stretched it. The strand and the bonded layer stretched, lightening the color slightly but it stayed bonded and still couldn't be separated. I then saturated the strand with Aussie Leather Conditioner while stretching it again thinking that the conditioner might break or slip the bond. I still had no luck peeling the "metallic" layer off. I have made several turks and pineapples using it and so far have had no problems. I half expected all the over and under through tight knots to peel it away and it withstood the process very well. I have not beveled it but I have run it through a strand resizer. It cut well but seemed to dull the blades a little faster than FG leather.

The way I was taught is an interweave although is pretty is soley to take up room on a knot without proper coverage. Thats not saying that sometimes you just want to add one. I do. I normally use a very thin strand, down to 1/16" when the knot is already full but not crowded. It takes a smaller needle and a lot of fid work. It does tend to look crowded while doing the interweave, but once done a bit more fid work and a good roll help a lot. A rounded core will make it easier to do a center section interweave.

If this were for small locking tongue roller buckles I would be in for some. Locking tongue are hard to find in anything under 1" at reasonable prices. 5/8 and 3/4 would be ideal.

I posted this a little while ago in supplies. This thread popped up at the bottom of todays page. I hope this link help some of you. These blades have worked great for all my injector blade needs. http://www.razorbladeco.com/products/24-89-0043-coated-injector-blade-in-dispensers.aspx Unfortunately you need to order 2 boxes to meet the minimum.

Which ever side you place down will receive the cleanest cut. As the blade begins to dull(which can be quite quick) the leather will try to ride up a little leaving your line a little jagged. The softer or thinner the leather the more pronounced the jagged line is and the more often you need to change blades. If you pre stretch and precondition the leather first you can get much straighter lines and longer blade life. Dont forget to roll the braid after you are done. It really improves the look and feel of a finished braid.

Since it is still a valid question. I dont like the brake. In order to handwheel the machine you have to power the motor ever so slightly so the brake will release. As for the needle positioner, I am used to handwheeling the last couple strokes and dont do high speed sewing. For me it has no use.

Posskat, I used to work with a lot of paracord and unfortunately I have never found a common denominator even from the same vendor. Some colors shrink more, some are stiffer, some have a twist to them. You take the core out like I did and now they act different once again. Nylon is not supposed to shrink when it gets wet and dryed except for the core on some paracord. I had a pillow case full of left over remnants long enough for different projects that were "anointed" by a cat. Well since they were already cored, the simple answer is toss in the washing machine, pillow case and all. I had a bunch of variegated colors that was popular with my crowd and was surprised at the outcome. On the variegated cord, one color shrunk while the other did not! I was left with cord that had a wave pattern to it because of color shrinkage. It destroyed the cord for any use and I ended up throwing it out. If your stuff is going to get wet and you want it to look the same, I suggest you do test batches through the wash cycle. With and without core. I couldnt believe that 10-20k ft of cord could differ so much just because of the color. All my cord was bought from the same vendor who swore they only had one supply, It was all claimed 550 milspec. Beware and test beforehand.

Thanks for the tips. I normally use a rotary cutter with light leather and can see that is out.

I have a project that I am lining with hair on Spanish churro. The fur is very thick, soft and long. I am not sure how to cut a straight line and keep the fur intact. Any pointers? Thank you.

Andrew, yes consew 206rb-5. It does have an oil reservoir, but I cant tell through the little window if its a wick or a pickup tube in there.

I wasnt sure where to post this but think this is the right place. We all use injector blades and Schick blades are so expensive. I ran across this place so I figured I would pass it on. The drawback is a $50 min purchase. I sent them an email asking if I could buy a sample before I purchased and they offered me a free sample pack. These blades are great. I will be buying a couple boxes to meet the minimum and that will give me blades for years. 240 blades for $37. http://www.razorbladeco.com/products/24-89-0043-coated-injector-blade-in-dispensers.aspx

Wiz could you expand on this? It seems many of us slow our machines down for more control and power. It is rare I hit 10 stitchs per second unless I am on a long straight run. Now I am worried about oil starving my new 206.

Thank you both JL and Eric. I was worried because a couple times when I pushed it without the machine turning the lever didnt want to move its entire travel. Its a new machine and new to me, We are both getting broken in still.

After the needle clears the leather?

What is the best needle position to engage reverse lever? I am worried that if engaged in the wrong position, it could bend or break something.

Please add me to the adult section. Thank you.

Thanks Red Cent. The pics show it all.

@Bob, could you repeat that for the Consew 206RB?

If you wanted to use 12 strands, you would need to use 6 anchor points instead of 4. From there proceed as normal.

Check out goodsjapan on ebay. I have their centerline stitch groover as well as a few other tools from them. I have been happy with each tool. Good pricing and I have yet to get a dud from them. Free shipping, but expect four to five week delivery times. I am looking forward to trying out the bag punch they sell.

If you have them split the side they will ship the split to you also, IF you request it. If you dont request it they keep it.