Sovran81

Sorry I didnt mean you would find a pattern but the image search results in many pics that might be useful to design your own.

Google button suspenders(images) and you will find a wide variety of styles concerning the button straps. Elastic is often used in the main strap to reduce the crotch crawl that can happen when bending or twisting. The strap width is all about comfort and style. Wider straps support more load and spread the load out on the shoulders instead of cutting in. Narrow straps are made for lightweight dress pants. Some years ago when I wore suspenders as part of a western costume, I modified the suspenders and pants. I used replacement jean buttons and they are kinda tall. They would dig in to my back when sitting. So I reversed it all. I had button holes sewn into the waistbands of my pants and placed the buttons on the straps. Now I could wear either suspenders or a belt with the same pants. That wont help you but thought I would add that tidbit.

I prefer both threads be matched for equal strength. However sometimes thinner threads will be used in the bobbin so you dont have to change the bobbin as often. This become very apparent when you are pushing machine limits on the thread or using machines with very small bobbins.

Hi Jeremy. Here is the link with a good pic of it. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=splitter&product_id=13842 Grinding it all the way back would weaken it and allow for flex in the middle I would think. To be honest, I have no idea what angle the blade is. CR has a rep with leather tools I have no problem trusting. Oh, the 3" width I quoted is without the splitter bolted down. I mostly use it for braiding strands but have run lots of belts and harness through it also

I researched for months before getting a splitter. I wanted a Chase that was refurbished by Bruce but availability and price never coincided. Second best was the Campbell-Randall Keystone splitter. I chose this over Osborne because the CR blade is solid tool steel. Osborne blades are an inlay of a hard and soft steel. I keep the blade sharp with a buffing wheel and jewelers rouge. I would have never made it into the soft steel, But why chance or worry about. The blades are too expensive not to be able to resharpen when needed. 3" wide is about as much as you can pull through it without distorting the leather.

Excellent pattern and instructions. Thanks for the share.

Is the thread pulling off the top of the spool or unwinding from the side of the spool?

I use 207 bonded nylon up top and 138 in the bobbin all the time with no problems. I have even used 207 in the bobbin but you end up changing bobbins pretty often. Agree completely with northmount especially about combining the options. Gear reduced servo with a 2" max motor pulley. One of these days I will add a speed reducer to mine also.

Agreed DC and Dwight with all but the HF. Toss the clutch and mounting issues. Get a 110 servo if its a 3 phase 220. You are still in a decent price range after conversion.

Try different angles or buff your tip. The Tandy tools are marginal at best with poor quality control. This one is pretty good. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kyoshin-Elle-Leathercraft-Pro-Stitching-Adjustable-Leather-Groover-Creasing-Set-/110956246125?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d581f46d In fact I have found all tools purchased from this seller to be good quality and much sharper than what tandy offers.

The problem with circular cuts is that the belly is weak and stretchy. It would end up with all the stress on the stitches on that section and probably start popping them. Then the strap would get narrower when it started stretching. I wont even guess at how to stretch the wrinkle out of the corner on thick latigo. Even thin roo can pose problems stretching the wrinkle out if the strap gets very wide. Have you thought about Biothane?

Leatherpownder, I am trying to follow your pics but am confused. I am fine to pic 2, but not sure what direction you are turning the work or if you are working both ends. Pic 3 loses me since I cant see where the strand goes through. Can you elaborate some. A pic is not always worth 1000 words.

I had that happening to me when I started the stitch. First things first, change the needle. If the thread is pulling hard enough to shred you might have bent it. I doubt this is your issue but it had me going round in circles. on the first couple stitches the thread would get wrapped around the tension disc adjust screw. The stitches would get tighter and the thread would shred in 5-10 stitches. I didnt notice it at first because I would cut the work out and the thread would fall back into the correct position as it snapped back from the tension. I dont know if its cheap thread or I'm just not holding the thread tight enough on the first couple stitches. I suspect the latter because once past the first few stitches there is no problem and it sews great. Like I said probably not your issue but it something simple to look for that causes your issue.

Good luck! If there was a cheap machine capable of 1" I would have already bought it. Your example is just better than 1/2" but that still moves you into the realm of highly specialized leather machines such as 441 clones and above.

Thanks everyone. I ended up getting a 29k58 from a guy who had two. It works and seems to be in pretty good shape, but right off the bat I noticed mine was missing a part that was on his. I downloaded the manual here. http://mediaclean.free.fr/singer29k/manualuser29k58-62.pdf I am trying to determine which part I need because the manual shows two options. One option is the regulator indicator for the take up lever shown on page 14. The other is the screw adjustment for the take up lever shown on page 15. How can I tell which is correct for my machine? I am completely new to these patchers. Also is it possible(read cost effective) to upgrade these to large bobbin?

LTC Its too bad you feel that way. I have seen nothing but people trying to help you determine what it is and offering help in the way of other pics, instructions and files. Remember you can always invest the $36 for the book. The link was provided in one of my earlier posts.

Rawhide and leather braiding. The author is on facebook so you could ask him which book it is in. http://leather-braiding.com/english.htm.

@Leatherpownder. Thanks for the reference. I had never seen those books, but now have them added to the want list after finding them here http://www.leather-braiding.com/english.htm I started knot tying way too late. So many knots I want to tie,

Far from expert with knots but the biggest difference I see between the OP pic and tutorial is the pic appears to double back on the third set of strands where the tutorial doubles back on the 1st set of strands. Both knots look great. Put on the list for must try at some time in the future. LTC it does appear to be a ginfer braided into a base knot, I dont have my book handy to confirm.

Wiz, Do any mods need done to use the 135x16 needles? Where do you source the titanium coated needles? Does Toledo industrial carry parts for the 29k's?

I have seen different models discussed but only a few seem to be sought after. Which models are sought after and why? Thanks

Ideal angle is 45* or 90* to the other strand. To me any other angle just doesnt look right. I think this angle was originally figured to give most strength and best coverage to flexible tools(thong of a whip). My formula is 1.5 times circumference divided by strand count. I suppose if you wanted a different angle then figure your strand size and either add or subtract a small percentage of that size to the calculated size.

Just finished a crop made from roo. Still trying to get the hang of pic uploads. Hope this works. The stranding was a little too wide for the shaft, but everything else came out pretty good. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=23999 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=23998

I would laminate, but there wont be any stitching and I doubt glue would hold alone with the amount of continual flexing. The link isnt working right. Are you referring to harness sides?

None cheaper that I know of, unless you find a screaming deal on a used 441 clone. Either way 6 oz is the draw line. Machines sew under or they sew over that line. You want x2 over. 3200 is entry level for over that. I have a lesser machine and while it will do it but I wouldnt torture it daily with 12oz plus. You asked about the 3200 in the OP. Get it, be done with it and be happy with your results.